Review: Clos du Bois “Lightly Bubbled” Wines

Want a little bubbly but don’t want a monster of a wine like Champagne? Clos du Bois has a new idea: table wine that is “lightly bubbled.”

These wines are hardly made in the methode champenoise style but are simply carbonated a bit after the fact. The result is a moderately fizzy wine — a bit less fizzy than a soft drink — that is designed to be summery and refreshing. Two expressions are available. We tried them both.

2016 Clos du Bois Lightly Bubbled Chardonnay California – Nicely frizzante, though it bears more resemblance to moscato than chardonnay, with notes of apricots and canned peaches, with lemon(ade) notes heavy on the finish. The fizz keeps things refreshing, though the lingering sweetness is a bit much at times, coming across as overly simplistic. B-

2017 Clos du Bois Lightly Bubbled Rose California – Rose of what is unclear, but the wine exudes heavy notes of strawberry Jolly Ranchers and candied rose petals no matter what the underlying grape is. Quite saccharine at times, the freshness found in the Chardonnay is absent here, replaced by an overwhelming, pushy cheapness and blunt sugar attack. C-

each $13 / closdubois.com

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