Deschutes’ winter-spring seasonal, the Bond Street Series Swivelhead Red, has undergone little change since its 2017 debut. The “India Style Red Ale” has a malty attack but a bitter undercarriage, but it’s ultimately the sweeter malt that wins out. While a classic piney character hits first, the body quickly finds some raisin notes, a pecan-like nuttiness, and a significant molasses character that gives it a finish closer to, say, a porter. It’s fun as a diversion, but I think the malt remains a little overdeveloped.
B+ / $10 per six-pack / deschutesbrewery.com
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