Review: NV Champagne Collet Brut Art Deco

Champagne Collet is made by the oldest cooperative in Champagne. This entry-level bottling comes packaged in a snazzy, deco-inspired bottle, and is a blend of about 20 crus.

Collet’s nonvintage Brut Champagne is immediately atypical of the style, bolder with bready yeast, particularly on the slightly funky nose, aggressively carbonated, and heavily fruited, all at once. Those fruit elements run toward baked apples and spiced pears — but it’s the hefty brioche notes that otherwise dominate the experience that are the most memorable element of the wine.

B+ / $39 /

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