Review: Dos 2016 Albarinos from Altos de Torona and Morgadio

Holiday dining often finds drinkers reaching for red wine, even with lighter meats like chicken and turkey. But white can work, if you find a bottle that has a bold enough profile to stand up to the main dish. Why not albarino, a big crowd-pleaser that many will mistake for pinot grigio.

Here’s a pair to consider, both from Spain’s coveted Rias Baixas region.

2016 Altos de Torona Rosal Rias Baixas – A blend of albarino, caino, and loureiro grapes. Boldly honeyed, the wine runs from a sweet start to crisp grapefruit and lemon, with a finish that’s closer to tart green apples. A moderately nutty note winds throughout the experience. B+ / $15

2016 Morgadio Albarino Rias Baixas – While the nose is aromatic and well perfumed, the body is gummy, which gives it a bit of an industrial feel. The palate runs primarily to florals, with some lemon-lime notes and a sprinkle of cinnamon to distract you from that overly unctuous body. B- / $15

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