Review: Wines of Villa Gemma, 2017 Releases

Villa Gemma is a label produced by Masciarelli Tenute Agricole, a leader in the Abruzzo region, just southeast of Tuscany. As the press notes say, “With over 60 parcels of vineyards in the 4 provinces of Abruzzo (Chieti, Teramo, Pescara, L’Aquila), the winery can uniquely express the astonishing diversity and variety of terroirs of the region.”

Below we look at a red and a rose — both made from 100% Montepulciano grapes — and a white wine blended from Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Cococciola, and Pecorino.

2016 Villa Gemma Bianco Colline Treatine IGT – Tangy and slightly tropical, I’m reminded a lot of pinot grigio with this wine. Lemon, some pineapple, and a bit of coconut all come to bear on a rather acidic palate that is clean on the finish, evoking notes of floral honeysuckle. B+ / $18

2016 Villa Gemma Cerasulo Rose – Bright pink in color, the appearance evokes candy and the palate does, too — with sweet cherries, cotton candy, and a lacing of vanilla that lingers on the tongue. A simple aperitif-style wine. B / $15

2007 Villa Gemma Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – Well-aged after ten years since harvest, this inky-black wine offers intense notes of tobacco, pencil lead, tar, and dried berries. Some oxidation is starting to show, giving it an austerity that tempers the dense level of tannin here and allows a hint of florals to emerge on the finish. One to sip and savor on a long winter night. A- / $90

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