Review: A Trio of Albarinos, 2017 Bottlings

Albarino — that crowd-pleasing white wine from the north of Spain — is sure to make an appearance on your summer table at least once. Here’s a look at three new releases, all currently on the market.

2016 Atlantis by Maetierra Albarino Rias Baixas – A slightly creamier expression of albarino, this bottling is a massive crowd-pleaser, bursting with notes of peaches, fresh tangerines, and pineapple, then fading into a very light grassy character. Simple and straightforward, but it fires on all cylinders. A- / $12

2015 Pazo de San Mauro Albarino Rias Baixas – A straightforward wine, quite acidic and tropical on the whole, with notes of mango, orange blossoms, and some apricot — brisk and biting from front to back. The finish is crisp and fresh, with a lemony kick to it. B+ / $15

2015 Vionta Albarino Rias Baixas – This was an enjoyable albarino back in the 2008 vintage when I last reviewed it. In 2015 it’s just as lively, with notes of pineapple, peaches, mango, and melon, fading to a slightly salty, melon-heavy finish. Moderately creamy, with a definitive sweetness. B+ / $16

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