Review: Boondocks American Whiskey and Cask Strength Whiskey
Boondocks is the brainchild of Whisky Advocate Lifetime Achievement Award winner Dave Scheurich, a veteran of the business who’s launching his own little project. It’s rather unique, so follow closely.
Boondocks American Whiskey is made from a mash of corn, rye, and malted barley, but it’s not bourbon. Distilled to a higher proof than bourbon allows, it doesn’t qualify for the legal term. Technically it is light whiskey (I believe, as details are scarce), aged for 11 years in refilled American oak barrels (another bourbon no-no). It’s available in two versions, a 95 proof bottling and a 127 proof cask strength whiskey. Additional, limited edition expressions will be coming soon.
We tasted both of the launch products. Thoughts follow.
Boondocks American Whiskey – As is common with light whiskeys, Boondocks is quite sweet, heavy on the honey and influenced by notes of caramel corn, candied almonds, and — particularly on the nose — a molasses/treacle character. The body is quite light and lively, drinking with just a hint of cinnamon as indication that it’s a bit overproof. Give it some time in glass and some notes of peaches in syrup emerge. The finish is clean and a bit short, but overall quite innocuous. 95 proof. B / $40
Boondocks Cask Strength American Whiskey – At higher proof, the nose features more wood and leather, and would be more mistakable for a bourbon. The honey and nutty notes are stronger, as is a clearer element of cinnamon and (again, particularly on the nose) tobacco leaf. The palate sees more of that molasses, a slightly tannic grip in the form of cloves and a bit of petrol, with less sweetness overall, particularly on the slightly curt finish. 127 proof. B / $58
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