A few years ago Beefeater was at the forefront of what has become a regular procession of barrel-aged gins. It’s Beefeater Burrough’s Reserve remains one of the better expressions on the market. Now the distillery is back with Edition 2. The twist? Edition 1 was rested in former Lillet aperitif barrels. Edition 2 instead spends time in a mix of red and white Bordeaux wine barrels. As with the original gin, there’s no information about the base botanicals used or how long the gin spends in these barrels before bottling.
I put the two side by side to see whether Beefeater was on to something.
While the DNA may be in the family, Burrough’s Edition 2 is a significantly different gin. The nose offers dark flowers, citrus peel, and fresh herbs, backed by hints of cocoa powder and vanilla. It’s got a much harder and more savory edge — much closer to unaged Beefeater’s — than Edition 1, which is comparatively sweet.
The palate punches up the herbs — juniper and rosemary, with notes of licorice and some bitter roots — before leading to a somewhat spicy, bittersweet finish. Contrast this with sweet and flowery, citrus-focused character of the original and you really see that this is a much different gin. Overall I prefer the first edition, but this one isn’t without its charms.