The world of gin is awash in numbers. There is Tanqueray No. Ten. Beefeater 24. Monkey 47. No. 3. No. 209. And London 40. Now the numismatics are coming full circle, with The London No. 1.

This gin is produced in England but under the ownership of the Spanish comany Gonzalez Byass, best known for its winery (where it is the producer of Tio Pepe sherry). That’s curious enough on its own, but London No. 1’s blue color is also of particular note. This is not a blue-tinted bottle like Bombay Sapphire. This is blue gin (courtesy of some certified colors).

The blueness is a nod toward one of the more unique botanicals in the mix here, namely the iris flowers used here as an addition to the more standard juniper, coriander, angelica, lemon peel, orange peel, and both cassia and cinnamon. Also in the blend are liquorice, almond, savory, and bergamot.

That sounds like a lot, but London No. 1 is surprisingly well-constructed. On the nose you’ll find a solid juniper base, plus hints of caramel sauce, orange and even grapefruit notes. The licorice character is mild but distinct — while this ingredient is becoming commonplace in modern gins, this is one of the few products I can recall where I could actually taste the licorice element.

The body of London No. 1 Gin starts off restrained, zero alcoholic burn, and almost tasting watery despite a hefty 47% abv. But things open up a bit with some air, revealing more of the gin’s nuances. Some earthy notes emerge at the start, with juniper and citrus peel close behind. The midpalate veers toward a bittersweet character, its citrus taking on balsamic notes, with some of that lily-driven floral character finally emerging as the finish rumbles along. There’s sweetness on the back end too, a bit earthy, almost caramel mixed with honey in character, perhaps thanks to the bergamot. It’s a nice way to end things — not too dessert like, and providing a nice balance to the racier front side.

I’m not sold on the blue color, but the gin itself is versatile, well-made, and unique in its own way.

94 proof.

B+ / $30 / thelondon1.com