Real Polish vodka is becoming harder and harder to come by, but this new brand is the real thing, hailing from a distillery built in 1895 outside of Warsaw. Made in a 100-year-old copper column still from local rye, it is cut to proof with the distillery’s own water from a limestone aquifer. The black-frosted bottle is striking and a little off-putting with its gothness.
There’s a lot of character behind the black glass. The nose offers lemon, grass and heather, and — most curiously — notes of fresh carrot. On the body, it’s a mix of Old World and New: A modest medicinal character (nothing overwhelming) backed with quite a bit of sweetness. Vegetal notes, however, are what linger the longest, with the finish taking on a somewhat mushroomy and brooding character.
Interesting and unique, but that finish pushes me a bit too far into the savory for comfort.
B / $35 / marquisvodka.com
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