This spring we were fortunate to try a new concept in vodka from Sweden’s Karlsson’s Gold: Single vintage, single potato variety vodka. Tasting various vintages and various potato varieties among each other, the differences were shocking. And now Karlsson’s is back, with a 2009 vintage made from a different potato: The Solist variety.
The 2009 version of this vodka is a much different animal, and I wasn’t nearly the fan I was of the 2008 vintage version.
The nose on the 2009 is immediately odd — a combination of greenery, licorice, and mushroom — but not off-putting, just unusual. Spice and pepper on the palate lead to a body featuring loads of sugar. A confusing vodka, it cries out for a mixer, or something at least to tie the disparate flavor elements together into a cohesive whole. I like the brooding beginning. I like the sweet finale. But unlike some of Karlsson’s other vodkas, I don’t especially like having them together in this particular package.
Reviewed bottle #67 of 1980.