White whiskey is always a dicey affair. One named “Wreckin’ Ball” — complete with a picture of a wrecking ball on the label — sounds downright dangerous.

Made in the back room of Montezuma Winery, in New York’s Finger Lakes region, this spirit is column distilled from 100% corn mash and bottled at 80 proof. The initial nose of grain and corn on the cob is powerful and pungent. Much sweeter on the palate than you expect, the corn character here develops into something akin to buttered popcorn, crisp and fragrant — and fresh and young.

As white whiskey goes, Wreckin’ Ball is surprisingly far away from the brash monster its name and label would suggest. Smooth and simple (being a standard proof level instead of straight-off-the-still strength helps), this lightly sweet libation doesn’t scream with complexity, and it knows it doesn’t need to.

80 proof.

B / $28 / montezumawinery.com

Judd's Wreckin' Ball Corn Whiskey

$28

8

Rating

8.0/10