Morellino di Scansano is located in the southernmost part of Tuscany (Grosseto is the nearest major town), an area made a DOCG in 2007. Until now I’d never heard of it. At well-known sommelier David Lynch’s new wine bar, St. Vincent, in San Francisco, Lynch talked about what makes this region different, and six producers offered their wines for tasting.

Some of the key points: Morellino, home to 120 wineries, is more Mediterranean than the heavily wooded Chianti region, and the wines are equally unique. Legally required to be a minimum of 85% Sangiovese, producers can do whatever they like with the other 15%, using either regional grapes or international varieties (or just going with 100% Sangiovese). The result is a wildly different group of wine styles that, while insanely different, have a distinctly coastal feel.

Thoughts on 12 Morellinos poured follow. (All wines are primarily Sangiovese, as noted above; the varietal breakdown below only notes any additions to the blend.)

Tasting Report: Morellino di Scansano DOCG

2011 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano / B / 10% Cab and Syrah; menthol notes, distinct licorice, dry and bright with herbs and some jam as it develops

2009 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano Riserva / A- / 10% Cab and Merlot; very friendly, filled with currants and chocolate

2010 Fattoria le Pupille Morellino di Scansano / A- / 15% Alicante and Malvasia Nera; chewier, dusty mushroom, forest floor character; good acid, fruit is more subtle, blackberry and brush

2008 Fattoria le Pupille Morellino di Scansano Riserva Poggio Valente / B / 5% Alicante; some of that mint here, drying and dusty finish

2010 Tenuta Pietramora di Collefagiano Morellino di Scansano “Brumaio” / A- /
chocolate, cherry notes; would not have figured this was full Sangiovese

2010 Tenuta Pietramora di Collefagiano Morellino di Scansano “Petramora” / B+ / 15% Merlot; racier, like a steak sauce with raspberry in it, very fruity

2010 Terre di Fiori Morellino di Scansano / B+ / lots of menthol, big acidity,
rosemary and fresh herbs, but balance is a touch off

2009 Terre di Fiori Morellino di Scansano Ventaio / B+ / huge green notes on the nose, cherry like a Chianti, closer to Classico than anything else here

2009 La Selva Morellino di Scansano “Colli dell’Uccellina” / A- / 15% Merlot; massive body with lots of wood and deep fruit, considerable tannin, very distinctive with a powdered cocoa finish; New World stylings

2011 La Selva Morellino di Scansano / B+ / 10% Merlot; fresh, quite easygoing, some forest notes

2008 Bruni Morellino di Scansano “Laire” Riserva / A- / 15% Syrah and Alicante; olives, lots of richness, grilled meat and smokiness, chewy finish

2011 Bruni Morellino di Scansano / B+ / 10% Syrah, 5% Alicante; floral notes, jammier and more fruit forward, some strawberry