Tasting Report: Rhone Rangers 2012
Every year the wine producers of California that make Rhone style wines – mainly created with Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Viognier, and a smattering of other grapes used mainly in southern France – descend on San Francisco to show off their wares. This year was no exception, with hundreds of wines poured, mainly from the 2009 and 2010 vintages.
I have to say these recent vintages stand as a bit of a disappointment. While Rhone-style wines are typically characterized as “big,” these wines were widely overcooked, jammy fruit bombs, the kind of wines that Zinfandel producers are typically making these days. I like hefty wines, but at this event I felt the weight of the high-alcohol wines, plus lots of smokiness, dragging down the better qualities that these wines can have: Spiciness, rich fruit, and cocoa lacing.
Hits could be found for those dedicated to the pursuit. Very limited tasting notes follow.
Tasting Report: Rhone Style Wines of California, 2012
2009 Adelaida Red Blend Anna’s Estate / $36 / B / jam bomb
2009 Ambyth Red Blend Adamo / $45 / B / heavy mint character
2009 Ambyth Red Blend ReVera / $45 / B+ / more balance
2009 Ambyth Red Blend Maiestas / $45 / B- / overcooked
2010 Anglim Syrah / $NA / B+ / hefty, powerful
2010 Anglim Mourvedre / $NA / B+ /
2008 B Cellars Syrah Caldwell’s Kreuzer Canyon / $NA / B- / heavy duty
2008 Calcareous Vineyard Red Blend “Tres Violet” / $38 / A- /
2009 Caliza Syrah / $45 / A- / intense, chocolate notes
2009 Chamisal Grenache Estate / $32 / B+ / tight, needs time
2009 Chamisal Syrah Estate / $32 / A- / easy drinking
2009 Chamisal Red Blend Cinq A Sept / $80 / A- / good balance
2009 Chamisal Syrah Califa / $48 / A- / intense
2009 Clos Saron Syrah Stone Soup Sierra Foothills / $45 / C+ / big barnyard notes, tough
2008 Cosa Obra Proprietor’s Red Blend / $40 / A- / lots of herbs
2009 Cosa Obra Proprietor’s Red Blend / $40 / B+ / intense, lush
2010 Cosa Obra Proprietor’s Red Blend (barrel sample) / $40 / B / big tobacco notes
2009 Cypher Winery Petite Sirah Heretic / $40 / B+ / was Four Vines (they sold the name to another winery), quality seems to be slipping
2009 Cypher Winery Red Blend Anarchy / $40 / B / very sweet currant notes
2009 Cypher Winery Syrah Killer Canyon Vineyard / $56 / B+ / best here, but still tough
2008 David Girard Syrah / $32 / A- / intense and chewy
2008 David Girard Syrah “Okei-San” / $75 / B / fruit bomb, night and day vs. the standard bottling
2009 Donelan Syrah Cuvee Chrstine / $45 / B- / tough herbal character
2009 Donelan Syrah Walker Vine Hill Vineyard / $45 / B- / surprisingly thin
2008 Edward Sellers Red Blend Le Thief / $50 / B / very sweet
2008 Edward Sellers Red Blend (GSM) / $37 / B / tobacco and earth
2009 Holly’s Hill Mourvedre Classique / $20 / B / raisiny finish
2009 Inspiration Syrah / $36 / C+ / overpowering smoke character
2009 JC Cellars Red Blend Misc. Stuff / $45 / A- / good fruit and balance
2009 JC Cellars Haley Rockpile Syrah / $45 / B / thick body
2009 JC Cellars Syrah Fess Parker’s Vineyard / $NA / A / favorite wine of the day
2009 Jemrose Red Blend Gloria’s Gem / $65 / B / menthol, tobacco, herbs
2009 Kukkula Sisu Red Blend / $40 / B+ / big chocolate body
2009 Kukkula Pas de Deaux Red Blend / $42 / B+ / better balance, quite sweet
2009 L’Aventure Red Blend Cote a Cote / $85 / A- /
2009 L’Aventure Red Blend Estate Cuvee / $85 / B / less balanced
2009 Lagier Meredith Syrah Mount Veeder / $48 / B- / out of balance
2009 Maclaren Wine Company Syrah Judge Family Vineyard / $38 / B- / ultra thin, tart
2010 Martella Grenache Santa Cruz Mountains / $45 / A- / hangs in for a while, Zin-like
2006 Martinelli Syrah Hop Camp Vineyard / $75 / A / best wine of the bunch
2008 Martinelli Syrah Lolita Ranch / $75 / A- / intense tobacco note
2008 Martinelli Syrah Vellutini Ranch / $75 / A- / more herbal, chewy and jammy
2009 Miner Red Blend “The Odyssey” / $40 / B / overpowering berry
2010 Miner Rousanne / $NA / C+ /
2008 Montemaggiore Syrah Paolo’s Vineyard, Estate / $38 / B / meat character
2009 Montemaggiore Syrah “Syrafina” / $42 / B+ / better balance
2007 Mounts Family Winery Petite Sirah Petasera Estate Reserve / $65 / A / rich, quite chocolatey
2009 Petrichor Syrah Les Trois / $48 / B / barnyard character
2010 Petrichor Syrah Les Trois / $48 / A- / almost Cab like
2009 Pomar Junction Red Blend “Train Wreck” / $48 / B+ / smoldering, overly dense
2009 Quivira Grenache Dry Creek Valley / $26 / B+ / very light, easy
2009 Quivira Red Blend “Elusive” / $32 / B+ / a bit thin
2009 Quivira Mourvedre Estate Wine Creek Ranch / $32 / B+ / also thin
2009 Qupe Syrah Bien Nacido Hillside Estate / $40 / B+ / still tight, intense
2007 Ridge Syrah Lytton Estate Dry Creek Valley / $33 / B / massive smoke character
1999 Ridge Syrah Lytton Estate Dry Creek Valley / $44 / B+ / also very smoky
2009 Stolpman Syrah “Hilltops” / $48 / B / smoky finish
2009 Stolpman Syrah “Angeli” / $68 / B+ /
2009 Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel / $55 / A- /
2010 Two Shepherds Red Blend GSM Russian River Valley / $32 / B- / jammy, not great balance
2009 Unti Syrah / $26 / B+ / tougher
2008 Unti Syrah Benchland / $35 / A- /
2008 Zaca Mesa Syrah Mesa Reserve Santa Ynez Valley / $44 / A- / rich and spicy