Aiming to “redefine” the tequila world, Milagro is releasing a new joven tequila with an outrageous price tag. Just 1,200 bottles of UNICO have been made, starting with a “kitchen-distilled” base of white spirit produced with 13 kilos of agave per liter. This base is blended with aged stock (the details of which aren’t released), rested for 30 days, then filtered and oxygenated back to clear. (This, of course, isn’t a mixto-type joven — the other usage of that term — but rather a clarified mix of young and aged 100% agave tequila.)
Results: Curious. The color is not clear but rather a very, very pale yellow. The nose is intensely vegetal, with cooked mash, fuel, and astringent elements. On the palate, much more intrigue than the nose would indicate: Notes of sweet caramel, cooked vegetables, raw agave, licorice, and charcoal. Unusual to the point of oddity, this tequila is hardly the smooth blanco you might expect for 300 bones, but rather a complex monster of a spirit that is one of the most challenging I’ve encountered recently. Sadly, no matter what you think about the approach, the balance is lacking among these various flavors, and UNICO isn’t so much a cohesive tequila but rather a bit of a muddy encounter.
B / $300 / milagrotequila.com