Review: 2008 Foppiano Estate Petite Sirah Russian River Valley

A notoriously tricky grape that makes often unpalatable wines, Foppiano proves it has the chops for handling Petite Sirah with aplomb. Aplomb to spare, even.

The nose says plum and violets, but the body takes us to the woodshop: Fresh cut lumber, sawdust, and steel, plus underbrush, chocolate, more plums, and a tightly wound core of fruit. The tannin is surprisingly manageable here, and this Petite becomes fairly easy drinking within minutes of opening and aerating.

Petite Sirah can so often be rough and obscenely tannic. Thank God someone knows what they’re doing.

A- / $20 /

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