Two Argentine Malbecs go head to head today, showing just how variable this grape and this region can be.
2008 Bodega Tamari Mendoza Malbec Reserva is a burly, smoky beast, a brute that’s a real powerhouse of a wine. Despite a ripe cherry core, the wine tastes a little oxidized, strange considering its youth. Overall it’s a big wine, though a little clumsy. Cheap, though. B+ / $11 / tamari.com.ar
2007 Kaiken Mendoza Malbec is a richer, more nuanced experience. Made in a New World style, this could just as well be from California, with a fruit-forward body laced with cinnamon and an almost sweet, Zin-like finish. It’s a simple wine, but it’s still a great value for such a pleasant little wine. A- / $11 / kaikenwines.com