Tasting Report: Wines of Portugal 2010
Portuguese table wines are always a mixed bag, with rough-hewn whites and a wild variety of reds to contend with. This year’s Portugal grand tasting event was familiar (see 2008’s event report here), with lesser-known Port vendors vying for attention among makers of vinho verde and other wines amongst a crowded group of wine enthusiasts muscling their way around the room.
This year I found a soft spot in my heart for aragones, a variety of grenache grown here and in Spain, which produced some much more complicated wines than Portugal is typically known for. Several producers had good aragoneses (aragoni?) on tap, with some equally compelling wines made from touriga nacional grapes — a grape usually used to make Port. Would love to experience top producer Esporao’s wines again.
Ratings and a few notes on tasted wines (and one brandy) follow.
Wines of Portugal 2010 Complete Report
2008 Casa de Santar Reserva DOC Dao / A- / pineapple-like, charming
2009 Grilos DOC Dao / B+ / perfumy white
2008 Palestra DOC Douro / B+ / thin red
2005 Dona Maria Amantis VR Alentejano / B / coffee notes
2005 Dona Maria Reserva VR Alentejano / B / tight
2007 CARM Reserva DOC Douro / B / tight, vegetal
2008 Carmim Aragones VR Alentejano / A- / licorice, leather notes
2007 Charamba DOC Douro / B- / an oddity, like children’s juice
2008 Esporao Reserva White DOC Alentejo / B+ / perfumed
2007 Esporao Reserva Red DOC Alentejo / B / herbal
2007 Esporao Aragones VR Alentejano / A / great balance, 100% aragones grapes
2007 Esporao Touriga Nacional VR Alentejano / A- / deep, dark chocolate and menthol character
NV Krohn Porto 20 Year Old DOC Porto / A- / woody and good tawny character
NV Krohn Porto 30 Year Old DOC Porto / A / a slight improvement
1968 Krohn Colheita DOC Porto / B+ / somewhat medicinal
1998 Krohn Colheita DOC Porto / B+ / dusty but lighter in style
NV Ferreira Dona Antonia Reserve Tawny Porto DOC Porto / B / 3.5 years aged, simplistic
NV Ferreira Duque de Braganca 20 Years Old Tawny Porto / B+ / vanilla character
NV Ferreira Quinta do Borto 10 Years Old Tawny / B+ / Cognac notes
2000 Ferreira Late Bottled Vintage Porto / B+ / fresh
2007 Ferreira Vintage Porto / B- / very fruity, jellybean like
NV Sandeman 30 Years Old Tawny Porto / A- / nutty with cocoa notes
2007 Sandeman Vintage Porto / B / not near ready for drinking
2000 Quinta do Pego Porto Vintage / B+ / oddly tannic
2007 Quinta do Pego Porto Vintage / B+ / easygoing
2007 Cartuxa DOC Alentejo / A- / very curious, fresh figs and cherry
2006 Cartuxa Reserva DOC Alentejo / A- / more balanced, like the standard bottling
NV Caldas Porto Fine White / A- / nutty with fig notes
2004 Quinta da Gaivosa Late Bottled Vintage Porto / A- / nice balance here
NV Quinta Tamariz VSOP Brandy DOC Vinho Verde / B- / harsh
2008 Patrimonio DOC Torres Vedras / A- / thinner, lighter style
2008 Casa Santos Lima LX VR Lisboa / B- / fruity finish but rough
2005 Brutalis VR Estremadura / B+ / not so brutal
2005 Dona Belmire Beiras VR Beiras / B
1994 Barros Colheita DOC Porto / B / green
1989 Burmester Colheita DOC Porto / B+
1989 Kopke Colheita DOC Porto / A- / good, mellow and muted
1975 Barros Colheita DOC Porto / B
2000 Calem Vintage Porto / B+ / feels young
About Post Author
I’m hoping Portugal becomes the hot new country for wine (much like Spain 10 years ago).
In terms of regions, I like the Dão and the Douro rivers (same one as Ribera del Duero in Spain). Alentejo is also rising in popularity. As for grapes, I also like aragones, and touriga nacional and tinto cão (red dog) make a great blend.
Favorite producers: Brites Aguiar, Quinta do Vale Meão Douro, and Vallado. I don’t follow white wines as much, but Quinta de Ameal has a good reputation.