Gvori’s price is hard to beat — go much lower and you’re getting your vodka in plastic jugs — but the body of this one is exceedingly unusual.
The initial palate is quite sweet, but then it fades quickly leaving behind a gentle bitterness. There are medicinal qualities in the mid-palate, but the entire affair is quite short, so it also fades rapidly. My first impression was of a much stronger, charcoal character, but giving it a little time to open up and temper itself in the glass proved beneficial, and the vodka smoothed itself out quite nicely.
On the whole, this is a fine vodka for the price. Perfectly serviceable as a well brand, but not intriguing enough to merit seeking out especially.
B+ / $13