Review: Fish Eye and Pinot Evil Boxed Wines

More and more producers are turning to boxes to move lots of product (they typically hold three liters vs. just 750ml of wine in a standard bottle) at rock-bottom prices.

Here’s a look at two more offerings that use cardboard and plastic in lieu of glass and cork.

Fish Eye 2008 California Pinot Grigio is a pleasant, if wholly unchallenging white. Served very cold, it’s crisp, with grassy lemon notes and a moderately clean finish. There’s not a whole lot of fruit in the glass — though that’s common with pinot grigio — but overall this is a pleasant enough wine considering the rock-bottom price. B- / $15 for 3-liter box /

Pinot Evil Non-Vintage Pinot Noir Vin de Pays de l’ile de Beaute is proof that the box wine business is better left to the less tempermental white wine world, despite it’s impressive-sounding French roots. Like a very light and young (and very cheap) Beaujolais, this wine offers prune-like fruit and a skunky finish that, quite frankly, I can’t find much charm in at all. D+ / $15 for 3-liter box /


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