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Rated B- Reviews Wine

Review: 1998 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Champagne


I’ve had this bottle in my fridge for months, because opening a $150 bottle of Champagne just for kicks seemed so, I don’t know, so wrong. I drink expensive wine for this blog all the time, but something about Champagne gives one pause before cracking it open willy-nilly.

Well finally I had reason to celebrate something, so out came the Palmes d’Or by Nicolas Feuillatte, which — if nothing else — is perhaps the most strikingly-bottled wine I’ve ever encountered. With its indented-bubbles on very dark glass (just look at the photo below to get a sense of what I’m talking about), it’s impossible not to be awestruck by the bottle.

If only what was inside was more compelling.

The nose of this half-chardonnay, half-pinot noir Champagne immediately resounds with crisp apples and fresh bread, a good sign I think. But the body is extremely tart, feeling much younger than its 11 years of age. The finish is quick but not unpleasant, leaving you with a kind of lemony, marmalade character that zips away quickly. I was also strangely confused by how quickly the fizz dissipated from the glass, leaving me with a relatively flat Champagne after only a few minutes.

Though it’s by no means undrinkable, I’ve found more enjoyment in many simple $20 bottles of sparkling wine than I did in Palmes d’Or. Bummer.

B- / $150 / feuillatte.com

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1998 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Champagne



Christopher Null

Christopher Null is the founder and editor in chief of Drinkhacker. A veteran writer and journalist, he also operates Null Media, a bespoke content company.

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  1. Spiritman May 22, 2009

    I love the Palmes dor champain from Nicolas Feuillatte!

  2. Morgex August 3, 2009

    Love it or hate it, you probably ruined that champagne by leaving it in the fridge for “months”. The vibrations of a commercial refridgerator are enough to mute even the most resilient bubbly

  3. Lieblingswein September 15, 2009

    Its a very fine champain! I drink this one very often and like it;-)

  4. RE October 14, 2009

    Having poured and tasting both the ’98 and the ’97 vintages, you’ll have to judge each one separately for yourself. Both are easily identifiable and you might be rewarded after having tasted the ’97. See for yourself.

  5. Andreas November 23, 2010

    I Love this Spirit

  6. mmwania May 10, 2013

    Awestruck is exactly what i am!


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