Review: 1998 Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d’Or Champagne
I’ve had this bottle in my fridge for months, because opening a $150 bottle of Champagne just for kicks seemed so, I don’t know, so wrong. I drink expensive wine for this blog all the time, but something about Champagne gives one pause before cracking it open willy-nilly.
Well finally I had reason to celebrate something, so out came the Palmes d’Or by Nicolas Feuillatte, which — if nothing else — is perhaps the most strikingly-bottled wine I’ve ever encountered. With its indented-bubbles on very dark glass (just look at the photo below to get a sense of what I’m talking about), it’s impossible not to be awestruck by the bottle.
If only what was inside was more compelling.
The nose of this half-chardonnay, half-pinot noir Champagne immediately resounds with crisp apples and fresh bread, a good sign I think. But the body is extremely tart, feeling much younger than its 11 years of age. The finish is quick but not unpleasant, leaving you with a kind of lemony, marmalade character that zips away quickly. I was also strangely confused by how quickly the fizz dissipated from the glass, leaving me with a relatively flat Champagne after only a few minutes.
Though it’s by no means undrinkable, I’ve found more enjoyment in many simple $20 bottles of sparkling wine than I did in Palmes d’Or. Bummer.
B- / $150 / feuillatte.com
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