Tasting Report: 2004 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunello — the crown prince of Tuscan wine — is coming off some rough times. Earlier this year the region, located right in the heart of Tuscany, found itself under attack. Why? Some producers were allegedly violating Italian law and bottling other wines than Brunello di Montalcino (which, by law, has to be 100% sangiovese), but selling them as the real deal. Considering good Brunello can cost $100 or more, that’s a big deal.
It all ended with hundreds of thousands of cases of wine impounded by authorities and a black mark smearing the good name of Brunello. The Consorzio of producers (some 200 operate in this small area) didn’t help when it floated the idea of allowing Brunello to utilize other grapes officially and in small quantities, but that didn’t fly, and Brunello remains a 100-percent sangiovese wine.
Now fighting to regain its status and stature, Brunello’s Consorzio del Vino threw a tasting event for producers to show off their just-about-to-come-out 2004 Brunellos, plus other wines from the region.
There are four main types of wine produced in Montalcino. Almost all the producers bottle the two main ones: Brunello di Montalcino, which requires 50 months of aging, and Rosso di Montalcino, which is bottled young and has no aging requirement. The other two varieties — Moscadello and Sant’Antimo — have extremely small production. And there’s also a new variety called Altero, which requires the same overall amount of time of aging as Brunello but one year less in oak (instead it rests in the bottle).
The Consorzio is pitching 2004 as a “five-star year,” but based on my sampling of 22 wines, including 11 Brunellos from the 2004 vintage, I might not go that far. Overall, the wines are dusty and herbal and still quite tannic — mostly quite drinkable but all likely to improve with age. Two clear favorites emerged: Fuligni and Poggio Antico. The Fuligni Brunello was richer and fuller bodied than anything else being poured at the event, ready for drinking now. The Poggio Antico wines were all good, but the 2003 Riserva Brunello (the Riservas require an extra year of aging before release) was so lush and gentle it made a lasting impression vs. the rest of the field.
Also don’t ignore the value-priced Rosso di Montalcinos. The best way I can explain these wines is that they taste the way most people wish Chianti actually tasted, a fruit-forward and racy wine that goes well on its own or with food. Try one instead of a bottle of Chianti next time you eat Italian food.
Full report follows (prices were not available for the wines poured).
2004 Brunello / 2007 Rosso di Montalcino Tasting Report – Consorzio del Vino Event January 22, 2009
2007 Camigliano Rosso di Montalcino / B
2004 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino / B+
2003 Camigliano Riserva Brunello di Montalcino / A-
2005 Camigliano Sant’Antico / B+
2004 Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino / B+
2007 Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino / B+
2004 Cosanti Brunello di Montalcino / B+
2004 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino / A
2004 Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino / C+
2003 Il Poggione Riserva Brunello di Montalcino / C+
2003 La Togata Brunello di Montalcino / A-
2007 Poggio Antico Rosso di Montalcino / A
2004 Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino / B+
2004 Poggio Antico Altero / A-
2003 Poggio Antico Riserva Brunello di Montalcino / A
2004 Tenuta di Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino / B+
2004 Tenuta Oliveto Brunello di Montalcino / A-
2003 Tenuta Oliveto Riserva Brunello di Montalcino / B+
2004 Tenute Silvio Nardi Brunello di Montalcino / B+
2007 Tenute Silvio Nardi Rosso di Montalcino / B
2004 Tornesi Brunello di Montalcino / B+
2003 Tornesi Riserva Brunello di Montalcino / B+
PININO Brunello 2004
Has someone tried the Brunello from PININO ??
Steve – Pinino wasn’t represented at this event, alas.
How can you call 11 out of 200 labels a “tasting”?
Candace – Because not all 200 made it out for the event. I certainly don’t claim that this was a comprehensive sampling of the entire vintage, but it is a representative one. In any case tastings like this are only a very rough guideline and even then only to the specific wines sampled.
Steve, I did taste the 2004 normale as well as the clan destino. I was in montalcino in October 2009 and visited with the owner, Max. I also saw him again at an event in NYC last month. He is a small producer and as such does not really attract Wine Spectator & Parker on a regular basis. I am just another Italian wine lover who got lost in Tuscany and cannot figure out how to get out. With that in mind, I very much enjoyed the Pinino 04 Clandestino. It is a powerful wine which I think will age nicely. His 2004 Brunello is a drop light, but certainly I would not call it a lightweight. Most of the 05’s I tasted were lacking structure though Pinino seemed to have it mostly together. Hope this helps even though its a year since you posted.
Glad you enjoyed a favourite of mine, Tornesi. Find them unusual among the Brunellos (the real ones, not the suddenly appeared out of nowhere at 10€ a bottle…hmmm), and the family themselves are people with generous integrity that makes buying their wines a double pleasure. Smae for Villa I Cipressi that won JS WIneSpectator’s top rating for Brunellos this year. Did you have a chance to try it??
Sid – alas that was about a year and a half ago… hope there’s another event soon!