Review: 2004 Owl Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon T. R. Passalacqua Vineyard

2004 California Cabernets are still trickling onto the market now, which is shaping up as a solid but not out-of-the-park year for the grape.

When we last met Owl Ridge, we were reviewing its 2003 Brigden Vineyard Cab. This year we’re checking out the 2004 T. R. Passalacqua Vineyard. With just 600 cases made, this Dry Creek Valley wine is nearly as rare as the Brigden, and a bit less pricey at $42 a bottle.

In the glass it’s full of silky fruit, but a little green on the finish, possibly due to some difficult harvest-time heat in 2004. After a few minutes in the glass, a tight wine opens up to be surprisingly soft for the long haul. There’s also a nice chocolate subtlety to the wine that makes it enjoyable on its own and an interesting pair with food.

Owl Ridge suggests long-term aging for the wine and, as with the 2003 vintages, I’m inclined to agree. Drink beginning in 2011.

B+ / $42 /

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