Review: Kübler Absinthe
Kübler is the next big name you’ll find on liquor store shelves in the newly budding absinthe section. Made in Switzerland, it’s 106 proof (comparably light for absinthe) and unique in one particularly (and uniquely Swiss, reportedly a means of end-running the absinthe ban of that lasted there for about 150 years) way: It’s nearly completely colorless, a see-through spirit that, if you didn’t smell it, could easily be mistaken for water. This is known as absinthe blanche.
With sugar and water it louches into a milky, murky concoction, but still has no color. The flavor, though, is unmistakably absinthe. Intriguingly, Kübler suggests a blend of 1 part absinthe to 5 parts water, whereas most other bottles lean toward a 1:4 ratio. The ultimate blend is of course a matter of personal taste, but no matter how much you water it down, the flavor of anise is powerful in the glass.
It needs very cold water, but the sweet and licorice-like taste is easy to drink and generally pretty good. It lacks much nuance beyond the anise, however. I had hoped for more herbal character make things more complicated, but Kübler shows its hand early and doesn’t try to hide behind its roots. (Get it!? Sorry.)
B / $54
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