Part of that has to do with the elevated proof level, and part has to do with the richness of the dram. The smoky peat is well integrated into the sweet body, where flavors of orange, nougat, and cherry character. Not overly woody (it’s just 10 years old, after all) this is a well structured whisky that’s both easy to sip on yet more complex than you’d think. The smoke and sweetness play perfectly well together here, and while it lacks the austerity that you typically want to find in older whiskys, it’s got more than enough going on for an evening dram.

91.6 proof.

A- / $83 / malts.com

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The body is rich and silky — and I’ve never seen a Lagavulin this deeply amber in color — and quite easy-drinking for a Scotch that’s normally more appropriate as a sipper. Nice apple fruits appear in the core along with modest citrus notes, all laced with that well-integrated peat smoke.

While this whisky isn’t my favorite of the Classic Malts bunch, it was — surprisingly — the one I drank the fastest. Interpret as you will.

86 proof.

B+ / $77 / malts.com

A dry whisky, this malt is thick with barley character, washed with dry — not fruity or citrus-inflected — sherry character, almost Madeira-like in the way it comes across on the palate.

Briny and thick with the seaweed-fueled notes, it’s a different dram in a world of heavily fruity and floral whiskys. The smokiness on the finish doesn’t so much recall a peat fire as it does the last embers of a campfire on the beach. Those looking for a sweeter, fruit-forward whisky will be disappointed in the more sedate spirit offered here, but those expecting yet another overwhelming peat bomb will be considerably surprised.

86 proof.

B+ / $77 / malts.com

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Big honey and nougat notes here, this spirit is showing a lovely maturity and balance, with smoldering maltiness that exhibits a touch of smoke on it. Coconut and a bit of banana are also present, atop a mild and pleasant sweetness driven by that citrus-fueled Sherry body. Some green pepper character in the finish doesn’t detract; instead it adds a touch of complexity.

In the grand scheme of things this is a very mild single malt, but it’s one that is surprisingly rich with flavor. All in all, a lovely little dram.

86 proof.

A- / $81 / malts.com

This Cragganmore Distillers Edition 2011 is a 12 year old Speyside malt, finished in Ruby Port barrels. This is a fascinating and surprisingly complex whisky. The smoke and Port elements combine to make a really unique character  that you don’t often see in malt whiskys. It took me half a glass to figure it out: brewed tea. It’s strong on the nose, and, more importantly, evident on the finish.

The body is malty and creamy, with a lingering smokiness. Flavors tend toward more cooked and stewed fruits here. Apricots and peaches, with just a touch of grassiness. There’s also plenty of wood, and that tea-flecked finish. The balance is a touch off, tending more bitter than I’d like, but by and large, this whisky’s sheer uniqueness make up for any drawbacks.

80 proof.

B+ / $67 / malts.com

Cockburn’s Special Reserve is the bottling you’re most likely to find, a blend of a little bit o’ everything much like Graham’s Six Grapes and Sandeman Founders Reserve, aged four to five years and offered to you for less than 20 bucks.

Cockburn’s Special Reserve is an intensely fruity Port, more strawberry and fresh plum than the typical raisin notes of the classic Port style. The nose reminds me of a stout Zinfandel, and the body hints at that jammy, racy grape, too.

Ultimately I find Cockburn’s Special Reserve a bit sweet for my taste, with a concentrated finish that turns a touch sour as it lingers.

B / $18 / cockburns.com

The Captain saw a line expansion with a 100 proof version in 2008, and now comes the even bigger gun: Captain Morgan Black Spiced Rum. This is actually an American rebranding of a product called Captain Morgan Black which the company has sold internationally since late 2011. The rum is a blend from Jamaica, Guyana, and Barbados (though the label notes only “the Caribbean”), spiced with cloves and cassia bark (we call it cinnamon!), and aged indeterminately in “double charred blackened oak” (whatever that means).

Ultra-dark and loaded with aromas — you can smell the vanilla when you crack open the bottle — it’s a clear competitor (and a worthy one) to the recent flood of high-end spiced rums, including Kraken and The Lash.

The emphasis here remains clearly on the sweet stuff. Vanilla and molasses, plus semi-sweet chocolate on the finish, it’s loaded with these dessert notes. Clove and cinnamon are present almost as afterthoughts, but you’ll catch them once your sweet tooth wears out. Finally, there’s a long, and surprisingly pleasant, finish, one which inspires one to consider girly-type cocktails but which begs to be consumed solo.

Captain Morgan has quite a winning spirit on its hands here, one which comes across at considerably lower proof than it is (and which can be awfully dangerous) and which elevates the Captain to the upper echelon of spiced rum makers. Well done.

94.6 proof.

A- / $22 / captainmorgan.com

NV Batasiolo Moscato Rose Dolce – Pretty typical of the modern Moscato resurgence: Very sweet, low alcohol (7.5%), a combination of ripe strawberry and moderate floral notes, the latter particularly present on the nose. A bit much in the sugar department for me. B / $14

2010 Batasiolo Gavi DOCG – Brisk and fresh, a great example of how great Gavi can really be. Notes of pineapple, lemon, fresh green apple, and an acidic finish with touches of chalk. Wonderful little white, perfect for drinking solo or with dinner. A- / $15

2009 Batasiolo Sovrana Barbera d’Alba DOC – The nose is enticing with a rich earthiness, but the body doesn’t back it up. Thin, tart, and redolent with canned fruit character and a sour, gummy bear-like finish. Unpleasant at first, it improves a bit with time in the glass. C / $20

2007 Batasiolo Barolo DOCG – What a surprise — and a wonderful wine. Those expecting mega-tannic Barolo will be quieted immediately by this rich and intensely aromatic Nebbiolo-based wine, but the balance is already showing. Lots of herbal notes — rosemary and bay leaf — balance out a rich plum core, plus a touch of smoke on the end. Easy sipping, especially with dinner, and a great value for Barolo. A / $40

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We finally got hold of four of J.M.’s rhums to review. Comments follow. (And be advised: While the prices below reflect 750ml bottles, you are more likely to find J.M. in one-liter bottles, with accordingly higher prices.)

Rhum J.M. Rhum Agricole Blanc  - J.M.’s white rum looks innocuous, and an idle sniff will reveal cachaca-like tones and petrol character. Take a sip, though, and you’ll find it’s bursting with tropical character: Bananas, pineapple, coconut, and a long vanilla finish. Hot as hell (in part because it’s bottled at 100 proof), but the complexity and balance in the fruit, dessert, and subtle spice flavors make it a real knockout among normally difficult white agricoles. A- / $30

Rhum J.M. Rhum Agricole Elevé Sous Bois – This is J.M.’s “gold rum,” (aka “Paille”), and the color is a perfect representation of that metal. The body is a lot like the blanc, with more vanilla brought to the forefront due to spending a full year in wood. The finish is a bit drying, though, which whisks away some of the natural fruit character you’ll find in the blanc. Most of the same components are still there, but here they take a bit of a back seat to the wood, which hasn’t come all the way to fruition yet. 100 proof. B+ / $36

Rhum J.M. Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP – Spends four years in wood, and bottled at a slightly lower 90 proof. Now that agricole funk is seriously dialed back, as this VSOP takes on some of the more traditional notes you find with aged rums made from molasses. Big caramel and vanilla, lots of heavy wood especially in the finish, along with a curious black cherry/chocolate note. I like this a lot, seems bottled at just the right time. A- / $55

Rhum J.M. Rhum Vieux Agricole 1997 – Not to be confused with the above, this vintage rum spends a minimum of 10 years in oak before being bottled. That’s crazy in a world where a rum that’s been in oak for three years is considered ancient, and J.M. shows how incredibly wise and delicious that decision can be. Intense caramel, chocolate, and vanilla on this, with barely a hint of tropical fruit and banana on the finish. A real knockout of a rum, with a long and smooth finish, silky body, and a price to match. Gorgeous stuff. 96 proof. A / $130

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