The conceit: Split the flights up by alcohol level to address the most common complaint with this wine, that it has too much booze.

But… does it? Peterson began with an investigation into Zin. His chart comparing Zinfandel’s % abv to that of Cabernet wasn’t convincing (Zin easily outpaces Cab most of the time, and Cab is hardly low-alcohol anyway), but his look at pricing was. At 13.3% abv, Zin runs about $11 a bottle. At 15.8%, vendors are getting $33 a bottle on average. In other words: Producers release high-alcohol Zin because the market is willing to pay more for it.

Why is Zin so boozy? This was the subject of considerable discussion among the 10 winemakers appearing on stage, who regularly stated that this wine is the 2^nd most difficult type to make, after Pinot Noir. Why? Because Zinfandel notoriously does not ripen evenly, and it can go from ready to over-ripe overnight. Even if you get it at the right time, plants are likely to have green grapes, ripe ones, and raisins, all on the same vine. It’s those high-sugar raisins that are responsible for Zin’s generally high alcohol levels. According to pretty much everyone, they’re simply impossible to keep out of the crusher. And really, Zin wouldn’t be Zin without them.

Another Zin fun fact: Probably ¾ (and 10 of the 16 wines tasted here) have Petite Sirah blended into them. Often this goes unreported on the label (it’s not required by law until you hit a certain percentage), but it gives Zin a lot more balance and some much needed backbone. Other varietals also appear in Zinfandel, too.

As for the wines, of the three flights, the most eye-opening was easily the first, a collection of wines with less than 14.2% abv. Of these, my favorite was easily the first, the 13.5% abv 2008 Terra d’Oro Montevina from Amador County. It was hard to believe this wine, with its high acid, minimal wood, lovely fruit, and great balance is Zinfandel at all… and harder still to believe it costs just $12 (by far the cheapest wine of the event). A close second: 2009 Tres Sabores Rutherford Estate, restrained and with herbal notes.

Moving into the “middle” range (14.3 to 14.9% abv), things returned to familiar ground. These lush Zinfandels offered lots of familiar character: Jammy fruit, wood influence, big bodies. Lots of commonality here, but my favorites were a 2009 Dry Creek Vineyard Spencer’s Hill, with a rich, chocolate finish, and 2010 Artezin from Mendocino, more restrained than most of this category.

Finally the big guns came out. With over 15% alcohol, these wines were Port-like in character, heavy in alcohol and with huge chocolate notes. I felt Joel threw a ringer in here to “prove” that Zinfandel doesn’t all taste the same: Michael-David Winery’s Earthquake is a brash, smoke-filled wine that tastes and smells like barbeque. Take this oddity out of the picture and you have five wines that taste a lot alike. Forced to pick a favorite I went for the 2009 Seghesio Rockpile from Sonoma, with fun licorice notes and a cocoa kick.

So, is Zinfandel misunderstood? Peterson said the accusations about Zin’s high alcohol amounted to “racial profiling,” and he’s right: There are exceptions to the rule, and in fact those exceptions are some of this grape’s most interesting wines. But the vast majority of winemakers stick with the high-alcohol stuff, and unless I’m mistaken, Peterson doesn’t make any low-alcohol Zin himself, either.

Stereotypes exist for a reason…

Jameson Black Barrel is mostly malted barley aged for considerably longer than standard Jameson — 12 years vs. 5 to 7, in both Bourbon and sherry casks. Then a touch of grain whiskey that’s been aged in Wild Turkey barrels is added to the mix. Bottling alcohol level remains at 80 proof.

While there’s nothing specifically “black” about Black Barrel, it’s a considerably different experience than standard label Jameson. The nose is rich, Bourbon-like, with vanilla and toasty oak notes. The body is creamy and impressively smooth, undercut with some citrus character likely brought on by the sherry cask influence. The finish offers grain notes, like a bowl of thick, raisined oatmeal, with a fleeting touch of smoke at the end. It’s night and day with regular Jameson, which is all fresh fruit and grass, with a menthol character to it. Black Barrel, side by side, very quickly overwhelms the regular bottling. As Irish whiskey goes, it’s almost decadent.

A- / $38 / jamesonwhiskey.com

Recently it was suggested (or rather I was accused) of enjoying whisky confections more than the whisky itself (not true, I swear), and reader John Bratincevic turned me on to this collection of Scotch-infused chocolates released for Robert Burns’ birthday (January 25) from New Hampshire-based L.A. Burdick. The company was kind enough to send a sample box my way, and I’m going to tell you, if you can get them (they’re limited release confections), do it.

These aren’t those cheap, foil-wrapped Cointreau and Kahlua cordials your grandma used to give you once you were in your 30s. This is the real deal: A 1/2 pound box of truffles and bonbons flavored with Lagavulin, Macallan, Talisker, Springbank, Highland Park, and Glenfarclas — some of my favorite names in Scotch whisky.

The assortment spans 7 different items (only one is an unnamed “honey whiskey”), with about four to six pieces of each. Picking a favorite is tough. They are all wonderful. But if pressed, I’d go with the Highland Park (dark ganache with scent of grapefruit) and, surprisingly, the Talisker (currant-hazelnut ganache), both of which are complemented beautifully by the hints of fruit added to the ganache.

You can really taste the whisky in all of these confections — though the still let the chocolate shine through — and the bonbons are small enough to allow you to eat three or four without feeling disgusting afterward. All of these truffles are fabulous solo,  and are even better with whisky — either their namesakes or something else.

As I write this, the collection is only available as part of a combo with a Lunar New Year collection or as a set of two 1/2 lb. boxes. Do yourself a favor and pick one up either for yourself or for someone you love.

A / $31 / burdickchocolate.com

Ladies and Gentlemen are cordially invited to enjoy a connoisseur’s evening featuring rare & exceptional single malt, Scotch and unique whiskies from around the world. The evening includes a delicious dinner buffet as well as a selection of premium imported cigars for our guests’ later enjoyment. The Single Malt & Scotch Whisky Extravaganza brings the discerning enthusiast the opportunity to sample the participating whiskies in a sophisticated and elegant environment with genuine camaraderie and knowledgeable representatives from each participating distillery.

All events from 7:00pm-9:00pm. Registration begins at 7:00pm. Business casual, Jackets preferred. No denim or athletic attire. Special rates for groups of 8 or more.

Use the promotional code “TDH2012″ to save $15 on each ticket. You can purchase tickets directly from the website or call us at 800.990.1991.

Here’s the Spring 2012 Extravaganza schedule. Fall dates, which will hit many more cities, to be announced soon.

ATLANTA

March 28, 2012 The Intercontinental Buckhead

3315 Peachtree Road NE Atlanta, GA 30326

HOUSTON

April 18, 2012 The Intercontinental Houston Near The Galleria

2222 West Loop South Houston, TX 77027

DALLAS

April 25, 2012 Dallas/Addison Marriott Quorum By The Galleria

14901 Dallas Parkway Dallas, TX 75254

DENVER

May 2, 2012 The Brown Palace Hotel

321 17th Street Denver, CO 80202

NEW YORK

May 10, 2012 The Roosevelt Hotel

Madison at 45th Street New York, NY 10017

Straight out of the bottle this couldn’t look less unassuming as it appears much like a mass-marketed light lager would with a pale yellow body and relatively meager head and retention. It is even surprisingly clear despite having a wheat base to it. It isn’t until you get your nose closer to the glass that you remember that this isn’t just any beer. A smorgasbord of chili and vegetal matter fills the aroma and obviously it is predominantly spicy, with the habanero and jalapeno surprisingly easy to pinpoint (although if I were more familiar with the other varieties here, it’d probably be possible to target them as well). I get maybe just the slightest notion of wheat and citrus, but I can’t say for sure if it’s my imagination or not.

This isn’t my first beer brewed with chili peppers, so I’m not exactly a stranger to heat in beers, but the first thing that comes to my mind when drinking this is “wow.” I don’t even have time to actually swallow my first sip before the heat kicks the door down. While other beers are a bit more subtle about it, the image on the label should tell you what this beer is all about. Any salvation the wheat could promise is swept away along with my tastebuds. The positive about this beer is that you can actually taste the peppers, although they sort of blend together rather than being easy to distinguish. But I hope you like heat because that and some pepper is all you’re getting here.

The impression left on the palate after this is both impressive and terrible. Impressive that such a small sip of this beer can leave such a lingering effect on the tongue and throat, and terrible because said effect is a vast amount of burning and numbing. The impression of this isn’t just a mouthfeel, but also a chestfeel and bodyfeel as even your extremities feel the power of the ghost pepper.

This is a beer in which a little goes a long, long way. I’ve had this glass in front of me for almost 30 minutes and I probably drank maybe 3 oz. The heat is intense, but after letting it mellow on the mouth, it gradually fades into a dull heat throb which isn’t so bad, actually. Honestly, I couldn’t imagine drinking a whole bottle of this solo. I am probably going to put the rest back into the bottle and either cook with it or disinfect the bathroom.

5.0% abv.

D+ (A for originality) / $3.50 per 12oz bottle / twistedpinebrewing.com

Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Wood Finish 1991 – This 20 year old Speyside whisky spends 30 long months in ex-Cote Rotie wine barrels. I’ve had mixed luck with Rhone Valley wine barrel finishes, but this one hits on all cylinders. Rich and smooth, velvety almost, it starts with honey, vanilla, and nougat notes, then brings on lots of eastern spices — cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne pepper. Citrus oil fades in and out, along with some malty grain notes at the end. Complex but beautifully balanced and a bargain for a 20 year old malt. 90 proof. 1900 bottles made. A / $80

Gordon & MacPhail Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 – Take a 14-year old smoky Islay and finish it in Hermitage wine barrels for 30 months and what do you get? Well, it’s interesting but a little muddy: Heavy peat on the nose, and plenty more on the tongue. The Hermitage tries to cut through this, particularly in the finish, but what manages to get across is little more than some relatively undefined orange peel sweetness. The color — a deep amber — hints at a lot of fruit. I do think it’s in there. Somewhere. 90 proof. 800 bottles made. B+ / $80

gordonandmacphail.com

Bacardi was founded in Santiago de Cuba on February 4, 1862, when Don Facundo Bacardí Massó purchased a small distillery. After years of experimenting, Bacardi revolutionized the spirits industry by adding steps never before used in rum-making.

Get the details at bacardilimited.com/150 — and if you pick up a bottle of the $2,000 limited edition celebratory bottling, let me know.

2010 Justin Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles – Crisp apple notes in keeping with California Sauvignon Blanc’s traditional profile, with a steely, lightly mineral finish. Touch of pineapple and even coconut on the finish, too. Not a terrible amount of excitement or character here, but perfectly acceptable in a drink-it-with-Chinese-food sort of way. B / $15

2011 Chasing Venus Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough – Instantly New Zealand, the nose and palate are both chock full of pineapple and mango flavors, exotic tropical notes that are only hinted at in the California rendition of the grape. For many, NZ Sauvignon Blanc is off-putting because these characteristics are overwhelming to the point of being dessert-like. In this wine, you can see what they’re getting at. B- / $16

2011 Casa Silva Sauvignon Blanc Riserva Colchagua Valley – Turning to Chile, we see Sauvignon Blanc in a more restrained style. More melon on the nose, but the fruit is in the body. Milder pineapple, and some figs, too. Lots of acidity make this a crisp gulper, but do it a favor and let it warm up a bit to bring out the fruit. B+ / $12

Then Maker’s launched Maker’s 46, leaving Woodford the only solo shop.

Now Woodford is joining the club with Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon.

It’s a complicated process, but let’s explain, in Woodford’s own words: “The first Woodford Reserve barrel is crafted from oak that has seasoned out of doors for nine months and this is completely toasted and charred on the inside – like no other whiskey barrel in the world. The second barrel has been toasted for more than twice as long as the first fill barrel and is then very lightly charred – again unique amongst all the world’s whiskey barrels.  The secret to the Double Oaked character is in the second barrel. A custom crafted barrel with a heavier toast allows flavors of honey, cream, vanilla to be magnified and a light char gives elegant sweet aromatic notes.”

Side by side with the original Woodford, Double Oaked offers a whiskey that sticks close to the distillery’s classic style. Lots of cinnamon and raisin on the nose, with vanilla, light chocolate, and smoothed-over wood notes on the finish. Compared to the original, it is surprisingly not heavier on the wood character but rather smoother and more mellow, particularly on the finish. Woodford original has always been a touch on the tough, wood-heavy side, and here Woodford manages to dial it back. The unorthodox production method and ironic name choice notwithstanding, the choices are sound. While Double Oaked lacks some of that intense vanilla character on the finish that original Woodford has, it makes up for it with more nuance and a smoother ride.

I am hard pressed to pick a favorite, but ultimately I think Double Oaked is a slight improvement over an already fine whiskey. Both, by the way, are 90.4 proof.

A- / $50 / woodfordreserve.com

By the way, Banyuls (pronounced ban-YULES), on the southernmost tip of France, along Spanish border near the Mediterranean, is also the home to a dry wine, typically named for the village of Collioure, which is in that territory. These wines are actually quite enjoyable, too, if you find one.

As for this sweet Banyuls from Les Clos de Paulilles, it has a picture of chocolate shavings on the label for a reason. The cocoa here is almost like a milk chocolate, smooth and with strawberry and some raspberry in the kicker. Very easygoing and not oppressively sweet, I expect some drinkers could easily mistake this for a fruitier Zinfandel.

B+ / $20 (500ml bottle) / clos-de-paulilles.com