Category Archives: Port & Sherry

Updated Port Punch Recipes from Sandeman

Sandeman sent us these delectible-sounding concoctions, all updates of old-school punch recipes involving Port. Yum!

wedding punch cocktail 199x300 Updated Port Punch Recipes from SandemanWedding Punch by Jonathan Pogash, The Cocktail Guru

Mixology Version – served warm (serves 8-10)

12 ½ parts Sandeman Founder’s Reserve Porto
8 parts spiced pineapple syrup*
4 parts fresh lemon juice
8 parts brandy or cognac
8 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
16 parts boiling water

Directions: Combine all ingredients (except for boiling water) in a separate container.  When ready to serve, add 2 parts of mixture to 4 parts boiling water.  Serve with freshly grated nutmeg, cinnamon stick, and a lemon peel.

*To make spiced pineapple syrup: In a large saucepan, combine cubes from a whole cut pineapple, along with ½ cup sugar in the raw, ½ cup water, 1 tsp. whole cloves, 1 tsp.  whole allspice, 2 vanilla beans (sliced in the middle), 2 cinnamon sticks, and allow to heat over medium, stirring often, for about 20 minutes.  Reduce heat to low and simmer for 15 minutes. Once pineapple chunks become soft, crush gently inside of saucepan and stir. When finished, remove from heat, strain out solids, chill and serve.

The at-home version substitutes pineapple juice and maple syrup for the spiced pineapple syrup, and skips the bitters, but like Pogash’s original recipe, it’s truly delicious.

Served warm or cold (serves 8-10)

12 ½ parts Sandeman Founder’s Reserve Porto
8 parts pineapple juice
2 parts maple syrup
4 parts brandy or cognac
4 parts fresh lemon juice

Directions to serve warm: Add the above ingredients to a container and stir or shake to blend. Pour 2 parts of mixture into a hot toddy mug and top off with boiling water. Garnish with freshly grated nutmeg and a lemon peel.

Directions to serve cold: Add the above ingredients to a large punch bowl with lots of ice and stir to chill and dilute. Add several lemon wheels to the bowl. Ladle out into punch glasses and top with freshly grated nutmeg and cinnamon stick.

+++

Ruby Sling by Adam Schuman, Fatty Crew

Mixology Version (serves 1)

1 ½ parts Sandman Ruby Port
1 part Batavia Arrack
1 ½ parts pineapple juice
¼ part yuzu juice
2 dashes angostura bitters
2 dashes allspice dram
2 dashes Pernod liqueur
1 ½ parts chilled ginger ale

Directions: Add all ingredients except ginger ale over ice in a highball glass, leaving room for about 1 ½ parts of ginger ale. Top off with ginger ale. Garnish with a skewered chunk of pineapple and a brandied cherry.

The at-home version is made in a punch-bowl style and substitutes lime juice for yuzu juice, and replaces the flavors of the Pernod and Batavia Arrack with spices that may already be in your cupboard for a drink that is just as tasty as the original.

Punch Bowl Version (serves 10-15)

25 parts Sandman Ruby Port
17 parts Jamaican white rum
25 parts pineapple juice
4 parts fresh lime juice
25 parts ginger ale
20 pieces allspice
10 pieces star anise
5 cinnamon sticks

Directions: Simmer 6 parts of port with 20 pieces of allspice, 10 pieces of star anise and 5 sticks of cinnamon. Allow the spiced port to cool and then add it to the rest of the punch. Before serving, add ice and ginger ale to the punch. Lastly, grate or sprinkle some nutmeg over the punch for additional spice. 

Review: 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage

We last visited this wine with its 2007 vintage, but first a word on Banyuls. What is Banyuls? This is France’s version of Port, lightly fortified wines with alcohol added to stop fermentation while sugar is still in the system, leaving the wines sweet. Banyuls is less alcoholic than Port (this bottle is at 16% abv) and lighter in body, probably in part due to the use of Grenache grapes as the primary component.

By the way, Banyuls (pronounced ban-YULES), on the southernmost tip of France, along Spanish border near the Mediterranean, is also the home to a dry wine, typically named for the village of Collioure, which is in that territory. These wines are actually quite enjoyable, too, if you find one.

As for this sweet Banyuls from Les Clos de Paulilles, it has a picture of chocolate shavings on the label for a reason. The cocoa here is almost like a milk chocolate, smooth and with strawberry and some raspberry in the kicker. Very easygoing and not oppressively sweet, I expect some drinkers could easily mistake this for a fruitier Zinfandel.

B+ / $20 (500ml bottle) / clos-de-paulilles.com

Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage bottle Review: 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage

 

Review: Paul-Marie & Fils Pineau des Charentes, Tres Vieux Fut #3

You may be looking at that headline and saying, damn that’s a lot of French. What the hell is Pineau des Charentes, and what is a tres vieux fut?

The easy one is the latter part: Tres Vieux Fut is “Very Old Cask,” and this is the third release from Paul-Marie & Fils of this Pineau.

So, what is Pineau? Pineau is a sweet, fortified dessert wine from the Charentes area of France, which encompasses the Cognac region. Grapes that would normally go into Cognac are crushed and left as unfermented juice: To turn it into alcohol, Cognac is added until it hits about 40 proof, then the mixture is left to age in barrels in a cellar.

This Pineau has spent more than 20 years in cask. (It’s actually a blend of two casks of Pineau, one 20 and one 21 years old, but that’s probably more information than you need.) 1,285 bottles were produced, and the vast majority are available here in the U.S. (And good luck to you in finding one.)

The resulting “wine” (which is intended to be drunk chilled) is somewhere between a sherry and a Port in character, but almost rose-wine like in color, a sort of pale orange -pink. It offers dried fruits on the nose, and a dessert character that’s like candied oranges. The finish is very sweet and the most sherry-like part of the experience. Very intriguing, it keeps calling you back to try it again and again.

17.5% alcohol by volume.

A- / $90 / pmspirits.com

paul marie et fils pineau no 3 Review: Paul Marie & Fils Pineau des Charentes, Tres Vieux Fut #3

Tasting Report: 2009 Vintage Port (and Beyond)

The schedule has gotten in the way of transcribing my notes from a solid half-dozen wine events of late, so over the next few weeks expect a flood of wine tasting reports. I’m starting off with this dispatch from Fladgate’s 2009 Vintage Port event, in which the company poured not just samples of the newly declared 2009 Vintage Port from its three estates — Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca, and Croft — but also the other three vintages from the last decade, 2007, 2003, and 2000.

2009 is already a bit of a controversial year: Only Fladgate has declared broadly that it will release a vintage for the year; other houses are offering only token bottlings.) Based on my tasting there’s no cause for alarm, though: The 2009s are in general dark and intense, but fundamentally no better or worse than the other vintages from the 2000s.

This type of tasting is really tough because even mediocre Vintage Port is still pretty darn good, and putting 13 Ports side by side makes picking a favorite even tougher. (If I had to: Fonseca’s 2000, which is also, by a slim margin, my favorite vintage overall of this bunch.)

Tasting notes on each wine follow.

Tasting Report: 2000, 2003, 2007, 2009 Vintage Port

2000 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port / A- / bigger raisin, prune notes, very extracted and young

2000 Fonseca Vintage Port / A / better balance, subdued, rich and complex

2000 Croft Vintage Port / B+ / lots of jam, very fruity

2003 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port / A- / lush, drinking well, offernig some of the character of the table wine

2003 Fonseca Vintage Port / B+ / young, some tightness and greenness here

2003 Croft Vintage Port / B / young, big tannin remaining

2007 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port / B+ / menthol, mint, and strong citrus notes

2007 Fonseca Vintage Port / A- / good balance and open, despite its youth

2007 Croft Vintage Port / B+ / some greenness, licorice notes

2009 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port / B / very acidic, with a hard edge

2009 Fonseca Vintage Port / A- / drinking fairly well, but not very nuanced yet

2009 Croft Vintage Port / A- / incredible dark, coffee and cocoa notes, not balanced but with promise

2009 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port Vargellas Vinha Velha / B+ / from a single block in a single vineyard, more mint here, but a surpising weakness in the body; disappointing

Affordable Dessert Wine Roundup

With party season getting underway, it’s time to look at dessert wines, no? (OK, so party season is nowhere near arriving, but these wines have been sitting here all year and I finally had the time to properly review them.)

This hodgepodge of wines basically have nothing in common except higher alcohol (usually), sweetness (some more than others), and the instruction to drink them after dinner. And they’re all under 30 bucks.

Thoughts follow.

2007 Paul Jaboulet Aine Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise Le Chant des Griolles – Quite a mouthful for a Muscat, this relatively simple dessert wine from France offers a mere 15% alcohol and moderate sweetness. The body is citrus, with some backbone, a peachy/orange character intense with floral aromatics. The finish is a bit off, too meaty, but overall it’s solid for a muscat. B+ / $29 (375ml)

2008 Carlo Pellegrino Passito di Pantelleria – A Sicilian wine from the Zibbibo grape, this is more intense than standard Muscat, but still easy drinking. Lots of aromatics, with a bit of a harsh finish. Still, a bargain for Passito. 15% alcohol. B / $25 (750ml)

2008 Chateau de Jau Muscat de Rivesaltes (pictured) – Another French Muscat, it’s the lightest of the bunch, with a distinct lemon character (perhaps that’s why there’s a photo of a lemon on the bottle). Perhaps not decadent enough to stand up to a big dessert, it’s likely a better pairing with cheese or even before dinner. 15% alcohol. B+ / $19 (500ml)

2007 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage – A big French red, but one that tastes stronger than its actual 16% alcohol. It has a raspberry and strawberry punch to it, which plays well with the relatively moderate sweetness. A little simple for a Banyuls, perhaps, but fairly easygoing and harmless. B+ / $19 (500ml)

2002 Churchill’s Late Bottled Vintage Porto – A bit of an anomaly in this roundup, but hey, we’re not perfect here at Drinkhacker. 20% alcohol and a fine way to wrap up the roundup. A simple LBV Port, it’s lush with plum character and black cherries, but the body is on the light side for Port. A very nice value and something I wouldn’t hesitate to order by the glass with a chocolaty dessert. B+ / $28 (750ml)

chateau de jau muscat Affordable Dessert Wine Roundup



Tasting Report: Madeira Wine 2010

To call Madeira poorly understood would be charitable. This truly ancient fortified wine from an eponymous island off the coast of (and part of) Portugal dates back to the 1400s and comes in infinite varieties. Sadly, the only one most drinkers are likely to have ever encountered is the cheap bottle carried by the local grocery store, rarely used for anything more than the occasional recipe.

Madeira grew to popularity after it was fortified and shipped to the New World during the 1500s, the heat and motion from the journey transforming a rough beverage into something different and special. Though modern Madeira is no longer shipped around the world, it is still kept warm during the aging process (called estufagem) in order to simulate the voyage.

Very little Madeira is single-vintage in origin, and even those wines with a year on the label may not be entirely from that vintage. Legally, only 85% of the grapes in a bottle have to come from that year’s harvest. Instead, you’ll find a wide variety of places, production styles, and other descriptors cluttering up the typical Madeira label.

The taste of Madeira is difficult to describe, something of a bastard child of Port and Sherry, featuring as many variations as those two wines comprise. Quality is even more wildly variable, as my tasting notes from a recent gathering of Madeira producers will surely indicate. (Grab that 1922 D’Oliveira if you can, a mere $460 a bottle!)

Tasting Report – Madeira Wine 2010

NV Blandy’s Sercial 10 Years Old / C+ / a bit skunky

1968 Blandy’s Vintage Bual / B / unthrilling

1997 Cossart Gordon Harvest Bual / B- / unripe

NV Henriques & Henriques Finest Full Rich 5 Years Old / C+ / thick, angry

NV Henriques & Henriques 10 Years Old Malmsey / B+ / richer, with more fruit and nutmeg

NV Henriques & Henriques 15 Years Old Boal / B- / over sweet to the point of cloying

NV Broadbent Fine Rich 5 Years Old / A- / Port-like with a bright sweetness, best young Madeira of the tasting

NV Broadbent Malmsey 10 Years Old / B+ / too tart, minerally and powerful

1998 Justinos Madeira Fine Rich Colheita / A- / quite lovely, with a good body and a raisiny fruitiness

1969 D’Oliveira Reserve Sercial / C- / odd, golden color, wholly off in tone

1988 D’Oliveira Harvest Terrantez / C

1973 D’Oliveira Reserve Verdelho / B+ / better balance

1989 D’Oliveira Harvest Malmsey / B+ / still fruity and lush

1968 D’Oliveira Reserve Boal / B+ / solid flavor, deep gold color

1922 D’Oliveira Reserve Boal / A / best Madeira of event (and almost 90 years old); amazingly rich, huge, silky sweet body

NV Barbeito Historic Series Sercial Charleston Special Reserve / B

1988 Barbeito Sercial Fraqueira / B- / rough hewn

NV Barbeito VB Reserve Lote 2 Casks 12d & 46a / A / blend of 2 regions, well balanced and special

2001 Barbeito Boal Casks 48 & 84 / A- / very Port like, despite gold color

Tasting Report: Wines of Portugal 2010

Portuguese table wines are always a mixed bag, with rough-hewn whites and a wild variety of reds to contend with. This year’s Portugal grand tasting event was familiar (see 2008′s event report here), with lesser-known Port vendors vying for attention among makers of vinho verde and other wines amongst a crowded group of wine enthusiasts muscling their way around the room.

This year I found a soft spot in my heart for aragones, a variety of grenache grown here and in Spain, which produced some much more complicated wines than Portugal is typically known for. Several producers had good aragoneses (aragoni?) on tap, with some equally compelling wines made from touriga nacional grapes — a grape usually used to make Port. Would love to experience top producer Esporao’s wines again.

Ratings and a few notes on tasted wines (and one brandy) follow.

Wines of Portugal 2010 Complete Report

2008 Casa de Santar Reserva DOC Dao / A- / pineapple-like, charming

2009 Grilos DOC Dao / B+ / perfumy white

2008 Palestra DOC Douro / B+ / thin red

2005 Dona Maria Amantis VR Alentejano / B  / coffee notes

2005 Dona Maria Reserva VR Alentejano / B / tight

2007 CARM Reserva DOC Douro / B  / tight, vegetal

2008 Carmim Aragones VR Alentejano / A- / licorice, leather notes

2007 Charamba DOC Douro / B- / an oddity, like children’s juice

2008 Esporao Reserva White DOC Alentejo / B+ / perfumed

2007 Esporao Reserva Red DOC Alentejo / B / herbal

2007 Esporao Aragones VR Alentejano / A / great balance, 100% aragones grapes

2007 Esporao Touriga Nacional VR Alentejano / A- / deep, dark chocolate and menthol character

NV Krohn Porto 20 Year Old DOC Porto / A- / woody and good tawny character

NV Krohn Porto 30 Year Old DOC Porto / A  / a slight improvement

1968 Krohn Colheita DOC Porto / B+ / somewhat medicinal

1998 Krohn Colheita DOC Porto / B+ / dusty but lighter in style

NV Ferreira Dona Antonia Reserve Tawny Porto DOC Porto / B / 3.5 years aged, simplistic

NV Ferreira Duque de Braganca 20 Years Old Tawny Porto / B+ / vanilla character

NV Ferreira Quinta do Borto 10 Years Old Tawny / B+ / Cognac notes

2000 Ferreira Late Bottled Vintage Porto / B+ / fresh

2007 Ferreira Vintage Porto / B- / very fruity, jellybean like

NV Sandeman 30 Years Old Tawny Porto / A- / nutty with cocoa notes

2007 Sandeman Vintage Porto / B / not near ready for drinking

2000 Quinta do Pego Porto Vintage / B+ / oddly tannic

2007 Quinta do Pego Porto Vintage / B+ / easygoing

2007 Cartuxa DOC Alentejo / A- / very curious, fresh figs and cherry

2006 Cartuxa Reserva DOC Alentejo / A- / more balanced, like the standard bottling

NV Caldas Porto Fine White / A- / nutty with fig notes

2004 Quinta da Gaivosa Late Bottled Vintage Porto / A- / nice balance here

NV Quinta Tamariz VSOP Brandy DOC Vinho Verde / B- / harsh

2008 Patrimonio DOC Torres Vedras / A- / thinner, lighter style

2008 Casa Santos Lima LX VR Lisboa / B- / fruity finish but rough

2005 Brutalis VR Estremadura / B+ / not so brutal

2005 Dona Belmire Beiras VR Beiras / B

1994 Barros Colheita DOC Porto / B / green

1989 Burmester Colheita DOC Porto / B+

1989 Kopke Colheita DOC Porto / A- / good, mellow and muted

1975 Barros Colheita DOC Porto / B

2000 Calem Vintage Porto / B+ / feels young

Review: Sandeman Tawny Port 20 Years Old

A good, old 20 year old tawny port with a ruddy brick-red color, Sandeman’s affordable porto is an easy and accessible entry to the style. Port’s traditional raisin and prune characteristics are present, but they are considerably muted beneath wood notes, smoke, and some vegetal character — all at the expense of some of tawny’s traditional sugariness. It isn’t quite as ultimately harmonious as I might have liked, but for those looking for something a bit less sweet in an after-dinner wine, this one might do the trick. 20% alcohol by volume.

B+ / $45 / sandeman.eu

sandeman 20 year tawny Review: Sandeman Tawny Port 20 Years Old

Review: Three Old Williams & Humbert Rare Sherries

I’ve said before that I am not much of a sherry drinker, but seriously, Harvey’s Bristol Cream is about the only sherry that America knows: You even see it on the dessert wine list at some of the finest restaurants… despite the fact that you can nab a bottle for about 12 bucks.

Following up its 15-year Dry Sack Oloroso, Williams & Humbert offers these three new sherry bottlings, all well-aged and intriguing, and each quite different.

Don Guido Rare Old Sweet Solera Especial Pedro Ximenez, aged 20 years, is as thick and dark as black coffee. Nutty on the nose, it’s intensely raisiny on the palate and could easily pass for an old tawny Port. Not a lot of complexity here, to be honest. It’s a solid punch of raisin character sprinkled with wood notes, but a little cloying in its sweetness. (Not that I should be surprised — it says so right on the label.) 18% alcohol. B / $50

Dos Cortados Rare Old Palo Cortado Especial, aged 20 years, is frankly not my kind of sherry. Burnt golden in color, it has a promising and young nose, fragrant with wood and vanilla and raisiny Port-like character. But the body is nothing at all like that, surprisingly astringent and quite rustic, with a very dry, vegetal character. Hard to get past a few sips of this one. Maybe more up your alley if you’re into drier dessert wines; the company intriguingly suggests using it as a cocktail ingredient. 19.5% alcohol. C- / $50

Jalifa Rare Old Amontillado Solera Especial, aged 30 years, is the age king of this roundup, and it shares a lot of its DNA with the Dos Cortados. The color is similar to the Dos Cortados, but with a comparably muted nose, the lightest of this roundup. Again, this sherry is extremely dry, with a nutty body but a lingering acidity that borders on medicinal. Built for fans of the dry dessert stuff. 20.5% alcohol. C / $70

williams-humbert.com

Review: Dry Sack Oloroso 15 Years Old Solera Especial

One reader recently asked why we don’t review much sherry around here, and the answer is simple: They don’t send us much sherry to review, and in fact they don’t sell much of it in the U.S. at all.

In fact, Williams & Humbert’s Dry Sack 15-year Oloroso is the first sherry we’ve formally reviewed here, and it’s a doozy. This is actually a blend of two sherries, a dry oloroso (78%) and Pedro Jimenez (22%), each blended separately with the solera style (in which wines are aged in a series of casks, with a portion of wine from each cask is progressively moved into the next-oldest cask every year until a tiny bit is finally drawn off the oldest cask and bottled, in this case after a total of 15 years through the process).

The result is a cryptic wine, dark oak in color and 20.5 percent alcohol. The nose is filled with raisins, but a nutty character becomes quite palpable as the raisin-like sweetness fades. The finish is spicy, with allspice and mulled wine; you get a whiff of these in the nose, too.

Dry Sack Oloroso 15 has a somewhat short finish, surprising considering the pedigree of what’s in the bottle, but that isn’t a major detraction from a wine that, at about $25 a bottle, is impressively inexpensive.

B+ / $25 / williams-humbert.com

dry sack 15 year sherry1 Review: Dry Sack Oloroso 15 Years Old Solera Especial