Grab a big bottle of Cabernet, stuff it in your overcoat, head to your local cineplex, and check out Bottle Shock, a film about the now-groundbreaking 1976 “Judgment of Paris” wine competition that put American wine on the oenology map. My pal Bill Gibron gives it 3 stars out of 5 over on Filmcritic.com, but I expect (as with movies like Sideways), booze snobs will enjoy it even more.

From the review:

Still, thanks to its inherently interesting subject matter (who knew our efforts were so abhorred prior to ‘76?) and the genial demeanor of the cast, Bottle Shock becomes a satisfying, if slightly syrupy entertainment. It’s not to be savored so much as sipped and sampled for what it is.

Look at all that juice!

Celebrating our tenth anniversary last night, I splurged on this bottle of Williams-Selyem Pinot Noir. It may be the most I’ve ever spent on a 750ml bottle of wine in a restaurant, and it is arguably one of the best bottles I’ve ever drank, too.

Williams-Selyem’s Westside Road Neighbors Pinot Noir comes, exactly like it sounds, uses fruit from a bunch of growers on the Westside Road in the Russian River Valley. It’s a surprising Pinot, immediately grabbing you with popping aromas of spice and black pepper, with cloves clearly on the nose. Drinking it: It’s textbook Pinot, a black cherry core laced with smoky oak. None of the skunky earthiness of Burgundy — this is new world Pinot at its height.

The wine opens up in the glass, losing some of its spicy heat and mellowing out nicely. It’s not a wine to gulp down, but over about two hours I watched this wine go from peppery firebreather to smooth and silky operator, never complaining once.

A / $65 and up (retail) / williamsselyem.com

Wow, today’s my 10 year wedding anniversary, and this is what was waiting for me. Not a bottle, but a full case of Sean Thackrey’s Orion. Must… not… open… before… lunch.

Thanks, Ashley! I can’t imagine what you went through to track this down.

The winemaking process continues over at Wired…

In the world of wine gadgets, there are fancy thermometers, cool glasses, and high-end corkscrews. And then there is WinePod, which lets you make your own wine, 48 bottles at a time, from frozen grapes, year-round.

I installed a WinePod in my house last week, and my first 150 pounds of grapes go into it tomorrow afternoon.

This is too much for Drinkhacker alone, so Wired is letting me write about the experience on their hallowed website. Blog #1 is now live. Follow the adventure by clicking on over!

Wired: Winebloggin’ Episode 1

Some families go on vacation to Disneyland. My family goes to the wine country. (Hey, don’t feel bad for the kids. There is a TON of stuff to do up there, from swimming to amusement parks to visiting the Jelly Belly factory… all of which we did this time up.)

Spending five days tasting wine, you drink a lot of vino and you see a lot of stuff. Strangest sight this trip: A trio of yuppies who mistook the crystal decanter (with wine in it) in a tasting room for a dump cup, carefully pouring their unwanted wine down the neck of the decanter to mix with the wine below. At least they soon realized their mistake and fessed up to the aghast tasting room staff. (That said, the decanter had been previously filled with $25 Merlot which the server was trying to use to demonstrate how differently decanted wine can taste to wine straight from the bottle. Sometimes, yes. In this case, not at all.)

As usual, I tried to take this tasting trip to a few off-the-beaten-path locations, but since we had five days to explore, perhaps I went a little overboard this time. At least two of the wineries I’d picked out were not just closed, they didn’t exist. Davis Bynum, clearly shown on maps of the area, had no tasting room where indicated (instead there was a gate with some residential houses behind it). We also spent 45 minutes taking wrong turns and single lane roads (and that’s being generous) to find Venge Vineyards, only to discover that the place had been sold several weeks earlier and was in the process of being transferred to new owners.

The wine country feels like a sleepy, small place… but it’s very large and things change all the time.

So, on to the wine!

One easy favorite stands out: Lambert Bridge. I’ve driven past Lambert Bridge dozens of times and never thought to stop since I’d never heard of it. What a mistake. Here’s a winery where virtually everything is exceptional, but I nabbed a couple of quality Petite Sirah bottles, a grape that few wineries work well with but which Lambert turns into a silky, rich, easy-drinking experience.

God bless Freemark Abbey, which was pouring not one but two library wines, both 1990 single-vineyard Cabernets which it contrasted with 2003 versions from the same vineyards. The Bosche Vineyards bottling was a bit better from both vintages, but at $65 (for the 2003) it’ll really have to be a “special occasion” wine for me to break open.

We had a delightful time at Casa Nuestra (and the kids loved being able to feed the goats). Lively conversation with tasting room operator Bailey (”one of a kind” per his business card) was matched with some interesting wines, my favorite being the field blend Tinto Classico, a rich, spicy, and earthy bottling that still has me thinking about it.

Over at Trefethen, the wines were good, but the hospitality was exceptional. The server actually gave our kids unopened geodes, which we smashed open with a hammer, right on the winery floor. I’ve never seen someone go so out of their way to make kids feel at home. They loved it (and it was our first stop on the trip, too).

Finally, I haven’t been to Beaulieu Vineyards in many years, but going back was worthwhile. I have always been a fan of its Tapestry blend, but getting to try two vintages of its heralded Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon side by side (one from 1995) was a real delight. In the end, though, we brought home the Tapestry.

The full report on 103 wines tasted (in semi-random order) follows…

Complete Napa / Sonoma Tasting Report

2006 Pedroncelli F. Johnson Chardonnay - $14.00 / B+
2006 Pedroncelli Zinfandel Rose - $10.00 / B
2006 Pedroncelli Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - $18.00 / B
2005 Pedroncelli Merlot Bench Vineyards - $14.00 / B
2002 Pedroncelli Mother Clone Zinfandel - $8.00 / B-
2006 Pedroncelli Mother Clone Zinfandel - $15.00 / B+
2000 Pedroncelli Midnight Run Zinfandel - $20.00 / B+
2005 Pedroncelli Cabernet Sauvignon Block 007 - $25.00 / B
2005 Pedroncelli Cabernet Sauvignon Morris Fay Vineyards - $18.00 / C
2003 Pedroncelli Vintage Port - $18.00 / C
2006 Clos du Val Carneros Chardonnay - $24.00 / B
2006 Clos du Val Carneros Pinot Noir - $30.00 / B
2005 Clos du Val Napa Valley Merlot - $26.00 / B
2005 Clos du Val Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon - $32.00 / B+
2007 Clos du Val Searle Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley - $18.00 / B+
2004 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - $70.00 / A
1990 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Bosche Cabernet Sauvignon - $140.00 / A-
1990 Freemark Abbey Sycamore Cabernet Sauvignon - $110.00 / B+
2003 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Bosche Cabernet Sauvignon - $65.00 / A
2003 Freemark Abbey Sycamore Cabernet Sauvignon - $55.00 / A-
2002 Freemark Abbey Zinfandel Port - NA, B+
2007 Casa Nuestra Dry Chenin Blanc, Old Vines, St. Helena Estate - $24.00 / B+
2007 Casa Nuestra Dry Rosado, St. Helena Estate - $23.00 / B
2007 Casa Nuestra Off Dry Riesling, St. Helena Estate - $23.00 / B+
2006 Casa Nuestra Tinto, St. Helena Estate - $30.00 / B-
2005 Casa Nuestra Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena Estate - $55.00 / A-
2005 Casa Nuestra Meritage, St. Helena Estate - $45.00 / A-
2006 Casa Nuestra Tinto Classico, St. Helena Estate - $40.00 / A-
2005 Chandelle Chardonnay Sonoma County - $25.00 / C+
2007 Chandelle Muscat Canelli Lake County - $24.00 / B
2006 Highway 12 Syrah Sonoma Valley - $28.00 / C+
2006 Highway 12 Abandon, Aleatico - $26.00 / D
2006 Mayo Pinot Noir Barnstormer - $30.00 / B+
2006 Mayo Gewurtztranimer Late Harvest, Kunde Ranch - $30.00 / B+
2004 Richardson Synergy - $20.00 / C
2001 Richardson Cabernet Sauvignon Home Vineyard - $30.00 / C-
2004 Sunset Cellars Barnera Twin Creeks Vineyard - $22.00 / C
2003 Sunset Cellars Petite Sirah - $30.00 / C
2007 Rochioli Estate Sauvignon Blanc - $26.00 / B+
2006 Rochioli Estate Pinot Noir - $48.00 / A-
2006 Lambert Bridge Viognier Mendocino County - $30.00 / B
2005 Lambert Bridge Petite Sirah - $40.00 / A-
2004 Lambert Bridge Crane Creek Cuvee - $85.00 / A-
2004 Lambert Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon - $90.00 / A-
2006 Lambert Bridge Chardonnay - $35.00 / A-
2004 Lambert Bridge Merlot - $40.00 / A
2007 Trefethen Dry Riesling - $22.00 / B
2006 Trefethen Chardonnay - $33.00 / B+
2007 Trefethen S.I.N. Rose of Pinot Noir - $24.00 / C
2004 Trefethen Merlot - $35.00 / B-
2005 Trefethen Double T Red Wine - $25.00 / B
2004 Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon - $50.00 / A-
2003 Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon - $45.00 / A-
2001 Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon - $80.00 / B+
2003 Trefethen Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - $100.00 / A-
2005 Beaulieu Vineyard Chardonnay Reserve - $40.00 / A-
2005 Beaulieu Vineyard Pinot Noir Carneros Reserve - $45.00 / A-
2004 Beaulieu Vineyard Tapestry Reserve - $55.00 / A
2004 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - $105.00 / A-
1995 Beaulieu Vineyard Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon - $135.00 / A
2004 Beaulieu Vineyard Port - $35.00 / B
2005 Steltzner Malbec Estate - $36.00 / B
2006 Steltzner Merlot Estate - $34.00 / B+
2006 Steltzner Claret - $20.00 / B-
2005 Steltzner Cabernet Franc Estate - $42.00 / B+
2005 Steltzner Cabernet Sauvignon Estate - $40.00 / B+
2006 Rombauer Chardonnay Carneros - $29.75 / B
2005 Rombauer Merlot Carneros - $32.00 / B-
2002 Rombauer Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Selection - $60.00 / B-
2006 Rombauer Zinfandel Napa Valley - $29.75 / B+
2006 Trentadue Sauvignon Blanc Dry Creek Valley - $14.00 / B+
2006 Trentadue Grenache Rose Monte Lago Vineyard - $10.00 / B+
2005 Trentadue Old Patch Red - $14.00 / B+
2005 Trentadue Zinfandel - $18.00 / B+
2005 Trentadue Cabernet Sauvignon Anderson Valley - $24.00 / B
2004 Trentadue La Storia Zinfandel - $28.00 / A-
2004 Trentadue La Storia Cuvee 32 - $32.00 / B
2004 Trentadue La Stroia Petite Sirah - $28.00 / B-
2006 Trentadue Viognier Port - $25.00 / B+
NV Trentadue Chocolate Amore - $25.00 / B+
2005 Sausal Family Zinfandel - $19.00 / C
NV Sausal ZIN XXXV - $35.00 / B-
2005 Sausal Century Vines Zinfandel - $35.00 / B+
2005 Sausal Private Reserve Zinfandel - $23.00 / B
2003 Sausal Cabernet Sauvignon - $24.00 / C+
2006 Sausal Purrfect Petite - $15.00 / C-
2007 Field Stone Sauvignon Blanc - $16.00 / B+
2006 Field Stone Chardonnay - $20.00 / B
2005 Field Stone Sangiovese - $20.00 / B
2004 Field Stone Merlot - $20.00 / B-
2004 Field Stone Cabernet Sauvignon - $24.00 / B-
2006 Field Stone Petite Sirah - $25.00 / B-
2006 Jacuzzi Arneis - $22.00 / B-
2006 Jacuzzi Giuseppina - $30.00 / B
2006 Jacuzzi Pinot Grigio - $21.00 / A-
2006 Jacuzzi Pinot Noir - $24.00 / B-
2005 Jacuzzi Sangiovese - $24.00 / B+
2006 Jacuzzi Dolcetto - $22.00 / B-
2006 Jacuzzi Nero D’Avola - $26.00 / A-
2006 Jacuzzi Barbera - $28.00 / B+
2006 Jacuzzi Primitivo - $22.00 / B-
2006 Jacuzzi Cabernet Sauvignon - $40.00 / B-
2005 Jacuzzi Valeriano - $48.00 / B

I always seem to have a bottle of Port open and at the ready… but never get around to drinking it. Memo to self: Drink more Porto.

Sandeman’s 20 Year Tawny is a nicely mellowed tawny, not too rich or sweet (which I know turns many Port drinkers off), but still bearing some nice complexity.

The Sandeman is a deep orange, reminiscent of a good brandy. The flavor is lightly sweet but still unmistakably Port, balancing out its jammy notes and a distinct honey laciness with an intriguing, orange finish.

Sandeman obviously recognizes the lighter structure of this Port and is pitching it as a unique ingredient in making cocktails. Here are two, courtesy of Philip Ward at New York’s Death + Co. bar. (Updates below from Ward.)

The Baltasar and Blimunda
1/2 oz. Sandeman 20 Years Old Tawny Port
2 oz. Beefeater Gin
1/2 oz. bitters
1/2 oz. vermouth (Punt e Mes recommended)

Stir. Serve up and garnish with flamed orange twist.

The Dahlgren
1 oz. Sandeman 20 Years Old Tawny Port
2 oz. tequila (blanco)
1 oz. ginger beer
3/4 oz. simple syrup
1/2 oz. fresh lime juice
dash of bitters (Angostura)

Shake well and serve in a highball glass. Garnish with a lime wheel.

I tried the Dahlgren (with the guesses as noted above; picture at right)… not a bad concoction, definitely turns a light style Port into something pretty heavy. The tequila (use something good) plays intriguingly with the citrus character in the Port (and I love the ginger beer element… never woulda thought of that), but I think this might be better with the proportions of Port vs. tequila reversed.

A- / $40 / sandeman.eu

The charms of Lillet Blanc have been adequately covered in this blog. But there’s another Lillet — Lillet Rouge — which is considerably harder to find even though it’s been on the marketsince 1962, 24 years longer than Lillet Blanc.

There’s not a lot of mystery to what Lillet Rouge is: As the name implies, it’s pretty much the same deal as Lillet Blanc, but with a red wine base instead of white. As with Lillet Blanc, it’s meant to be consumed ice cold, but anyone who’s ever had a chilled red wine knows how strange this can be. Adding in the bittersweet herbs that go into Lillet just makes it all the weirder.

In the right frame of mind, Lillet Rouge can be refreshing, and it does make for some curious cocktails (the company’s first recommendation is Lillet Glogg, which I’m sure you’ll dive right into). But all in all, it’s easy to see why the Blanc is more popular.

B- / $16 / lillet.fr

Brancaia (sometimes indexed as “La Brancaia”) is regularly touted as one of the great Super-Tuscan wineries, yet the wines, while expensive, are generally in reach of the average wine buyer.

Though in production for only a few years, the $70 Ilatraia is already one of Brancaia’s signature bottlings, a 60-30-10 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, and, intriguingly, Petit Verdot. In the glass it’s unmistakably Cab at heart, lacking that greenish bite typical of so much Chianti and nicely mellowed by 18 months of oak.

It’s definitely a food wine but works well on its own. When you’re not sucking down a steak you can catch the raspberry and spice notes here that you might otherwise miss. The bottle went down all too quickly, a testament to its easy-drinking nature. Love the mod label, too.

A / $75 / brancaia.com