Three new affordable releases from Rodney Strong, all from the Sonoma County range. Let’s give them a spin.
2014 Rodney Strong Chardonnay Sonoma County – Bright and fruity, this is an apple- and pear-focused wine that laces modest (but not overwhelming) vanilla and caramel notes into an otherwise fruit-forward experience. Uncomplicated, but super friendly for everyday drinking. B+ / $10
2013 Rodney Strong Merlot Sonoma County – A workmanlike merlot, with cocoa powder and cassis notes, plus a somewhat herbal finish. Densely fruity at first, it settles into a groove after a bit to pair at least reasonably well with heartier dishes. On its own, a somewhat bittersweet note tends to dull the finish. B- / $13
2013 Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County – A very young cab, with notes of blueberry and chocolate. While unabashed in its sweetness, it is tempered by a touch of baking spice and a pinch of bitter herbs that give it a cleaner finish than you’d expect. B / $14
The region is best known for Pinot Blanc and Riesling, but Pinot Gris is a major varietal in the Alsace — so much so that the region’s reps sent us four selections from the area for us to cover.
Let’s dive into four major Alsatian Pinot Gris wines to see how they stack up.
2011 Albert Mann Vin d’Alsace Pinot Gris Rosenberg – Honey and peaches and cream, oh my! A gently fruity and mildly perfumed wine, it’s a pretty sipper with a body that pushes hard on the fruitier notes, those peaches giving way to simpler citrus on the finish. Easygoing, if a little plain at times. B+ / $25
2010 Louis Sipp Pinot Gris “Nature’S” – Night and day vs. most of the field, this is a wildly sweet wine that you might well mistake for a muscat, or possibly a dessert offering of some kind. Pungent with notes of overripe peaches, orange creamsicles, and Ricola cough drops, this is better saved for the end of the meal, not the start. B- / $28
2011 Riefle Bonheur Convivial Pinot Gris Alsace – Moderately sweet, with a tropical bent and notes of ripe banana. Some perfumed notes add a touch of intrigue, but a bit of astringency mars the back end. Less of a blowout than the Louis Sipp, but still on the digestif side of the fence. B- / $17
2011 Hugel Pinot Gris Alsace – Arguably the biggest name in Alsatian wine, this pinot gris comes complete with a Ralph Steadman illustration on the label. Very aromatic and floral, this is one of the driest wines in the collection, a pale and perfumed sipper that melds white flowers with notes of melon, white peach, and tart gooseberry. B+ / $22
This creamy viognier offers ample peach and apricot notes, with an almost caramel-like body that gives it some weight. Overtones of white flowers arrive after the wine has a chance to warm up a bit. The crisp acidity of many a viognier is missing here, replaced with overtones of spiced nuts and heavy cream. While it’s something of an odd duck for this grape varietal, it is a better choice for pairing with food than most viognier wines.
B / $18 / zacamesa.com
Headed up by well-known winemaker Rodrigo Soto, Chile’s Ritual is a new label that is producing sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, and — uncommon for Chile — pinot noir.
Soto recently took to a web chat with wine writers to prove that he was making what’s been called Chile’s best pinot noir — and for under 20 bucks a bottle. In between tales of the wild world of Chilean winemaking, we tasted through three brand new releases.
2015 Ritual Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley – A dry rendition of sauvignon blanc, lots of minerals and tight aromatics, including savory herbs and very light, white florals. Pale a ghost, the wine is clean and crisp, but the finish comes off as a bit astringent. B / $18
2015 Ritual Chardonnay Casablanca Valley – Balanced and restrained, with just a touch of butter and spice atop an otherwise fruity and juicy wine that’s loaded with apple and lemon notes. Some caramel emerges with time, but the finish showcases sweet and ultra-ripe fruit, lasting for quite a while. B+ / $20
2015 Ritual Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley – Very dry at first, almost dusty. Give it some time and fruit develops in the glass, a gentle plum/strawberry combo tempered by a dusting of cloves, slate dust, and mushroom. The “best pinot in Chile” may be pushing things, but it turns out to be remarkably drinkable, even with spicy and exotic foods. B+ / $20
Oregon’s Sokol Blosser is out with a panoply of new releases, ranging from sparkling stuff to single-block pinot noir.
Let’s taste the lot.
NV Sokol Blosser Evolution Sparkling Wine – An everyday brut sparkler made from grapes unknown, but which goes down without a fight. Notes of nuts and brioche on the nose lead to a very fruit-forward body, loaded with fizzy apple, apricot, and white grape notes. Party wine. B+ / $20
2014 Sokol Blosser Pinot Gris Willamette Valley – Stellar pinot gris, with tropical notes on the nose and melon on the body. They come together with bright acidity, modest sweetness, and a bit of exotic baking spice on the back end. Quaffable by the glassful, but also thought-provoking on its merits. A / $18
2013 Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Estate Dundee Hills – Not my favorite release from Sokol Blosser, a meaty and somewhat astringent expression that offers dusky notes of Vienna sausages, old cloves, spent wood, and brambly thickets. The fruit is stamped down, almost into oblivion, which is not the usual way Sokol Blosser’s pinot behaves. C+ / $30
2012 Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir Estate Dundee Hills Goosepen Block – A single-block designate of Sokol Blosser’s estate pinot, only 300 cases made. (Note that this is a prior vintage, too.) Here we see Sokol Blosser firing on all cylinders. The nose offers chocolate, raspberry jam, and tea leaf. On the palate, light notes of grilled meats segue into notes of darker fruits, more milk chocolate, and a lightly bittersweet finish. Quite a departure from the previous wine, and a massive upgrade. A- / $65
Today we look at three new releases from Sonoma-based La Crema, including the kooky Virtuoso Pinot Noir. Virtuoso is the result of a crowdsourced winemaking experiment, in which 25,000 “virtual vintners” put their input into what type of wine La Crema would make (Russian River Pinot won), what type of yeast would be used (wild), how long the wine would spend in barrel (9 months), and more. Majority ruled, and La Crema made it to the crowd’s specifications. Did the wisdom of crowds prove better than the wisdom of a trained winemaker? Let’s find out!
2014 La Crema Pinot Gris Monterey – A fruity yet brisk and fun pinot gris, this wine offers lush apple notes with a smattering of tropical and citrus fruits, showing some melon notes on the finish. Ample acidity gives the wine a freshness that cuts through any lingering sweetness, wrapping things up on a light and vibrant note. A- / $15
2013 La Crema Chardonnay Monterey – A pedestrian chardonnay, some curious lemon notes are about all that give it structure outside of a moderately wood-driven, slightly chalky and gravelly expression of this grape. The vanilla on the finish is reminiscent of cake frosting more than anything else. B- / $20
2014 La Crema Virtuoso Pinot Noir Russian River Valley – Let’s see if the crowd knew what it was doing. Virtuoso is initially quite restrained for a Russian River pinot, with blackberry preserves, black tea, and mild chocolate notes. The wine is modest of body, almost thin at times, with a short — but nicely bittersweet — finish. Otherwise, it’s not terribly remarkable — perfectly acceptable with a meal, but on its own it feels a little lost in the shuffle. B+ / $50
Here’s a fresh look at Sandeman’s widely-available nonvintage Ruby Port, which is sold in the squat bottles labeled Founders Reserve. (We last reviewed it in 2012.)
It’s a rather alcohol-forward Port, which dulls the raisiny core more than a bit with some hospital character. Secondary notes of weak tea, rhubarb, and caramel sauce find an unhappy hanger-on on the form of some canned vegetable notes that linger on both the nose and the finish, dulling this wine’s impact.
B- / $15 / sandeman.com