Category Archives: Wine

Tasting the Wines of Valencia, Spain

Valencia is a Spanish region that sounds oh-so-familiar but, in reality, is one which few Americans could pinpoint on a map. It’s actually a region of Spain in the east, along the Mediterranean sea — about as far away from the more famous regions of Rioja and Ribera del Duero as you can get in the country.

I recently missed a tasting event where wines from this region were poured… but the organizers were kind enough to send a couple of bottles later for evaluation. Some thoughts on a pair of wines from this value-driven region follow.

NV Anecoop Reymos – A sparkling Muscat. Pear is distinct on the nose. On the palate: toasty biscuits, pineapple, and lots of Muscat-like citrusy sweetness. Not exactly a dry, sipping experience, it’s a festive fruit bomb that’s fine… in moderation. B- / $12

2009 Bodegas Enguera Megala – 60% Monastrell, 40% Syrah. Some plum and raisin up front, with a little peppery edge behind it. Blueberries are big in the middle, touched with some cinnamon and pomegranate notes. Finally, earth and mushroom touches on the finish along with all the fruit. Light acidity, but a little flabby on the finish. Worthwhile. B+ / $25

Review: 2012 River Road Nouveau Rose of Pinot Noir

river road nouveau 230x300 Review: 2012 River Road Nouveau Rose of Pinot NoirThis ultra-young rose of Pinot Noir — picked, produced and bottled all in 2012, a la Beaujolais Nouveau — is ultra-fruity, with fresh strawberries and pineapple backed up with a touch of rose petals. Complex? Not exactly, but it’s got a fun zip that, once you push past all the sugary notes, makes for a fun little glass of vino that’s good for, well, sipping about four months from now.

B / $15 / riverroadvineyards.com

Review: 2009 Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain

robert craig howell mountain cabernet sauvignon 2009 300x300 Review: 2009 Robert Craig Cabernet Sauvignon Howell MountainThis latest vintage of Robert Craig’s mountain-born Cabernet is a bit tight today, with tannin still obscuring the fruit within. I’m not sure there’s going to be a lot of it to go around when it matures in another 3-4 years. Some blueberry, tea leaf, and rhubarb round out the plummy core. But it’s the distinct black pepper — especially heavy on the nose — that makes this wine particularly unique.

B+ / $80 / robertcraigwine.com

Wine Road Trip: Paso Robles and Santa Barbara

Recently I took my first wine-centric trip to the more southerly wine regions of California, Paso Robles and the Santa Barbara area (popularized by the movie Sideways). As with everything involving Northern and Southern California, things are done a bit differently down here, including the grapes they’re focusing on (Grenache Blanc is a huge up-and-comer here) to the way wines are made (oddball aging and fermentation is big – from concrete and even Plexiglas fermentation tanks to massive, oversized wooden barrels used for aging, nearly ubiquitous across Paso).

Thoughts on every wine I tasted follow, plus a collection of photos at the end. (Don’t miss the photos of fall foliage — vividly capturing the turning of the leaves from fully green at the top of some of these vineyards to deep brown at the base.) Continue reading “Wine Road Trip: Paso Robles and Santa Barbara” »

Review: Wines of Artesa, 2012 Releases

artesa winery 300x187 Review: Wines of Artesa, 2012 ReleasesArtesa operates an iconic winery in Carneros (photo at right), one which is well worth a visit if you’re in the area. Recently the winery released its slate of wines for 2012. Three of these, representing the primary varietals of the area, are reviewed below. Continue reading “Review: Wines of Artesa, 2012 Releases” »

Tasting the Wines of Ribera del Duero, 2012

When it comes to Spanish wines, Rioja gets all the attention. But Ribera del Duero, just to the south and west of Rioja, is known for somewhat more affordable wines that are also primarily, and often 100%, Tempranillo (also known as Tinto Fino in Spain). Otherwise, the two regions have a lot in common, though on the whole I think Rioja can safely claim the quality crown.

Here’s how the wines tasted at a recent roadshow in San Francisco stacked up. Continue reading “Tasting the Wines of Ribera del Duero, 2012” »

Review: Absolut Tune

Absolut Tune bottle 158x300 Review: Absolut TuneLooking for something different for a sparkling wine this New Year’s than that bottle of Freixenet? Absolut Tune is not that wine.

Immediately curious — it’s a blend of Absolut Vodka and Brancott Sauvignon Blanc wine from New Zealand, then fizzed up with carbonation — this is a bold experiment for both the vodka biz and the wine world. What better way to sell vodka to a vino snob than to blend it down to an alcohol level comparable with wine? (14% in the case of Absolut Tune.) And what better way to push wine to a vodka lover than to slap the Absolut name on it?

Continue reading “Review: Absolut Tune” »

Tasting Report: Wines of Mendocino 2012

esterlina 224x300 Tasting Report: Wines of Mendocino 2012A trip to Mendocino is a bit of an annual pilgrimage now, and every time I visit the area I love to check out old favorites and wines that are newer to me. I’d encountered all of the wines below at least once, but this was my first visit to a few, including Esterlina, which requires a lengthy drive up a mountainous dirt road, and where you are treated to a private tasting complete with Cheetos. The Esterlina house cat, Queen Elizabeth, spent the better part of an hour purring in my lap while I tasted through a wide range of Anderson Valley (and other) wines. You don’t get that in Napa, folks.

Thoughts on everything tasted follow. Continue reading “Tasting Report: Wines of Mendocino 2012” »

Kendall-Jackson Offers Apps Alongside New Vintage

Even the wine world is going mobile. Kendall-Jackson has launched a new mobile app called K-J Recommends, with an eye toward pairing its wines with certain events in your life (romance, family, etc.). It’s a fanciful app… and two of the 11 wines recommended are reviewed below. Continue reading “Kendall-Jackson Offers Apps Alongside New Vintage” »

Review: 2010 Melka CJ Cabernet Sauvignon

melka CJ 103x300 Review: 2010 Melka CJ Cabernet SauvignonMelka was a new brand for me that I wasn’t familiar with. This Napa-based winery produces only a few thousand cases a year under two major sub-labels, Matisse and CJ. Today we look at the 2010 CJ, named for the initials of the two children of Philippe and Cherie Melka. It’s unclear whose eyeballs are on the intriguing label.

This wine, 100% Cab, is very soft and initially quite tart. Lots of fresh berry notes on the tongue, with lots going on beneath. Designed to be youthful and consumed early in its life, this wine is fruity without being jammy. Blueberries, plums, even fresh apples… it’s in there, man! The fun isn’t over, though. Wait for the finish and a nifty caramel character comes along. Really lovely wine. Give it 15 minutes to breathe before you drink it.

A / $55 / melkawines.com

Review: 2010 Four Vines Zinfandel Lineup

Think you know Four Vines Zinfandel? This isn’t that Four Vines. That Four Vines sold its name to Purple Wine Corp. The old Four Vines is now called Cypher. The new Four Vines, well, it’s making pretty good Zinfandel in the footsteps of the original owner of the name. Here’s how the new 2010 bottlings of its all-over-California wine production shakes out.

2010 Four Vines Zinfandel “The Sophisticate” Sonoma County - Some smokiness on the nose, plenty of juicy fruit on the palate. Some spicy notes in the palate, plus a touch of cedar box, raisin, and a touch of wood oil round out a food-friendly bottling. B+ / $23

2010 Four Vines Zinfandel “Maverick” Amador County – Very spicy, with a big, extracted fruit character. Not a complex wine, with a moderate to light body that’s packed to the gills with flavors of juicy raisins, pepper, and fresh garden herbs, alongside hefty acidity. B- / $18

2010 Four Vines Zinfandel “Biker” Paso RoblesDense, chocolates and currants, incredibly rich. Amazing depth offers fruit that doesn’t quit — black cherry on the finish, plus brewed tea and cinnamon. Lots to enjoy in this one. A- / $23

fourvines.com

 

Tasting Report: Aromatic and Dessert Wines from Quady WInery

With the holidays nigh upon us, celebrations will be in full force. Don’t forget the sticky stuff for dessert. Quady, which has been making its wines in Madera, California since 1975, offers a huge slate of dessert, fortified, and aromatic wines. We tasted a panel of six of its most popular offerings. Thoughts follow. (All prices are for 750ml bottles, except Deviation.)

Quady Vya Vermouth Aperitif Sweet – Made from Orange Muscat, Colombard, and Valdepenas grapes, and spiced with cinnamon, gentian, galangal, and nutmeg. Tawny, moderately brown color. Deeply herbal, like mulled wine for Christmas. Pleasant, with notes of brewed tea to counter the Christmas spices. 16% abv. B+ / $20 Continue reading “Tasting Report: Aromatic and Dessert Wines from Quady WInery” »

Review: Wines of Chile’s Neyen, Ritual, and Primus

Huneeus Vintners manages a portfolio of wines from around the globe. Three of its South American Portfolio wines, all from Chile, were just released in new vintages. We tasted them all!

2008 Neyen Espiritu de Apalta Colchagua Valley – 80% Carmenere, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Inky deep maroon. Big plum character, with ample cinnamon, dark chocolate, and vanilla notes. Big body with a lasting, yet balanced, finish. Deep and rich, it stands up well to a big meal while also working enjoyably as a winter sipper. A / $50

2011 Ritual Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley - Ample fruit, with a bit of a thin body. Lots of jammy strawberry and cherry here. Easygoing, with a short, lightly vegetal finish. B- / $20

2010 Primus The Blend Colchagua Valley – A rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Syrah and Merlot. Quite compelling, it’s got plenty of fruit despite an ample density. Almost salty up front, the plums and cedar wood in the middle give it ample complexity and drinkability. B+ / $20

huneeuswines.com

Review: 2010 Round Pond Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

round pond 2010 cabernet sauvignon napa valley 199x300 Review: 2010 Round Pond Cabernet Sauvignon Napa ValleyRound Pond, in Napa Valley’s Rutherford area, is primarily a Cabernet Sauvignon producer with affordability squarely in mind. We sampled the newly-released 2010 vintage of its flagship, Napa-sourced Cab.

This wine is light and very fruity, with almost no tannin to concern itself with. Ample strawberry and blueberry character, freshly juiced and jammed, dominate the body. The finish: Short, sweet, and easy. No concerns with acid, just a lush and fruity Cabernet that’s easy to drink but mostly uncomplicated.

B / $30 / roundpond.com

Review: 2010 Van Duzer Pinot Noir Estate Willamette Valley

2010 van duzer estate pinot noir 158x300 Review: 2010 Van Duzer Pinot Noir Estate Willamette ValleyOregon’s Van Duzer has been through upheaval of late. A new winemaker came aboard in June 2010, and the winemaking process was overhauled to focus on smaller sites, lower yields, and gentler handling of grapes. The first release from the new era is now upon us. Here’s how the 2010 Estate Pinot Noir shakes out.

Continue reading “Review: 2010 Van Duzer Pinot Noir Estate Willamette Valley” »

Italian Value Wines — Deep Value Wines — for Thanksgiving from Bolla

Thanksgiving on a budget? Six wines from Bolla arrived for our consideration for a spot on your Thanksgiving table, including one infamous classic. Thoughts (and a special video) follow. Continue reading “Italian Value Wines — Deep Value Wines — for Thanksgiving from Bolla” »

Blind Tasting with Karl Wente

This was a fun little event — an honest to God blind tasting, courtesy of Karl Wente, of the Wente winemaking family, who wanted to see if we could suss out four of his wines… with minimal clues. The only thing he’d let on: That all four of these wines were blended to some degree, but all still bore a varietal name on the label, indicating they were mostly made from a single type of grape.

Here’s how this tasting — a look at the variety of flavors that Livermore fruit can produce — shook out. First come my tasting notes and a guess at the grape, followed by the reveal.

Wine #1 – Clear black cherry, tea notes. Some jamminess, but open. Light chocolate notes on the finish. My guess: Petite Sirah. B

Answer: 2010 Wente Sandstone Merlot, $15

Wine #2 – Raisiny, lots of jam, but some incense spices there. Doesn’t have a lot of balance, too fruity. Body doesn’t come together. Guessing a Cabernet Sauvignon-heavy blend. B-

Answer: 2010 Wente Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, $15

Wine #3 – More jammy character, with big chocolate and plums. Opens up with a little time in glass. Better structure, with a good slug of mint on it. Guessing Cabernet Franc primarily.

Answer: 2010 Wente Small Lot Cabernet Franc , $40

Wine #4 – Far different than the others. The fruit is dialed back, more earth, lots of herbs, good richness, old world in style. You can get Port-like flavors in the finish as it airs out a bit. Lots of fun; intriguing. Guess: No idea. A-

Answer (a ringer): 2009 Los Tesoros de Joaquin Souzao, $24 (the Souzao grape is traditionally used in Port production)

Review: Loca Linda Wines of Argentina

loca linda wine Review: Loca Linda Wines of ArgentinaLoca Linda is a new brand of Argentine wines that come to us from semi-professional nomad/wine guru Brian Smith. The focus with these wines is on two unassuming bottles that each hold a full liter (“uno liter”) of wine — yet contain just 30 grams of additional glass vs. the typical 750ml bottle.

The wines are also, for the most part, surprisingly outstanding. Continue reading “Review: Loca Linda Wines of Argentina” »

Review: Emeril’s Wine Samplers from TastingRoom.com

Emeril Lagasse is now lending his name and palate to TastingRoom.com, which offers sets of six 1.7-ounce micro-bottles of mixed wines, selected by the chef. Two samplers, each mixed selections of mostly-California wines, are available. Thoughts on both of them follow. Continue reading “Review: Emeril’s Wine Samplers from TastingRoom.com” »

Review: 2010 Vineyard 29 Cru Cabernet Sauvignon

 Review: 2010 Vineyard 29 Cru Cabernet SauvignonI’m an avowed fan of Vineyard 29, but the winery’s stuff is so hard to find that I rarely get a chance to experience its wines. How fun to get a bottle of the 2010 “Cru” release, a Napa Valley Bordeaux-style blend made up of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 3% Petite Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.

It’s a perfect little wine, wonderfully balanced and drinking shockingly well just 7 months after in bottle. Brilliant cassis, black currants, and plenty of wood, but not overdone. The Port-like raisin character is taken to the perfect level — not jammy and not syrupy, despite the big 14.8% alcohol level. Shades of menthol, violets, and dark chocolate throughout. Great wine from a vintage that’s otherwise shaping up erratically for California.

A / $54 / vineyard29.com