An unusual red made from 100% Refosco grapes indigenous to the Friuli region just north of Venice. The nose is slightly perfumy, with blueberry underpinnings. n the body, ample smoke and earth notes are backed up cherry and spice character. A moderate to big body, with lots going on. Surprisingly complex — if not wholly balanced — for a value wine.
B / $12 / angoris.com
A great value on an old Gran Reserva Rioja from Bordon. Surprisingly fresh for a wine nearly a decade old. Just showing the first hints of oxidation, and then only after substantial time in glass. On the nose, dark cherries, black tea, and some earth. The modest body offers fresh berries, light vinegar notes, and more tea leaf. A great food wine.
B+ / $25 / francoespanolas.com
An unusual Pinot (especially one from the Carneros area), very fruity, but also very tannic. This wine reminds me more of some Syrahs than anything I’ve encountered recently in the Pinot world, and that’s… OK. The big body is something I can get my arms around, but the heavy fruit — juicy and over-ripe — is the more jarring element of the wine. With time exposed to air it reveals more charms, but Mira’s sense of balance remains elusive.
B- / $42 / miranapa.com
Our friends at Justin have taken a big step into a new world of wine that’s completely foreign to them: Rose.
This rose of Cabernet Sauvignon is made from Paso Robles fruit, and the beefy backbone shows. A heavy shade of peach, the wine features a moderately floral nose followed by a palate that features citrus notes, crisp apple, and a touch of apricot on the back end. At first a bit incongruous, the wine develops some balance — oddly — as it warms up a bit. While rose is normally at its best straight from the fridge, this is one that works better when it’s not quite so chilly.
B / $20 / justinwine.com
Lot 18 was once one of many in a sea of “flash sale” websites focused on deep wine discounts. That business model didn’t pan out, so Lot 18 went back to the drawing board. The result was a new plan and a partnership with TastingRoom.com (which we’ve covered here a few times), which was also experiencing some growing pains. Lot 18 ended up acquiring the company and combining the two into a unique kind of wine club.
Here’s how it works: Sign up for a $9.95 introductory tasting kit and Lot 18 sends you a six-pack of 50ml minis which you use to “calibrate” your palate. In the kit (at present): A Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay, two Pinot Noirs, a Merlot, and a Zinfandel. Using Lot 18′s website, you walk through the wines and tell the site which ones you like best. A little tech voodoo puts you into a category with the company uses to select which wines it will send you in its quarterly shipments — $85/case for your first one, then $149/case (plus $20 shipping) thereafter.
Interesting stuff, and Editorial Director Eric Arnold walked me through the setup at Drinkhacker HQ. I thought the overall approach was solid and certainly better than the usual “I like whites” or “I like reds” questionnaire… although it’s terribly difficult to distill someone’s entire palate in just two whites and four reds. The description of my palate was only about half right (there are only a handful to choose from, after all), but when my wife walked through the same setup, hers was way off. Still, it’s an interesting way to get started — and Lot 18 says you’ll be able to sub wines in and out of your case to fine-tune your shipments over time.
The service went live on May 1. Give it a whirl, wine guys!
Posted in Services/Retailers, Wine
Francis Ford Coppola has become an icon in Northern California’s wine country, but why does a man this important — whose Oscars and Palme d’Or can be seen firsthand at the pool-equipped day resort/tasting room he runs in Sonoma County — need no fewer than five Chardonnays? (In truth there are at least seven.)
While you puzzle over that one, we were tasting the 2011 vintages of these wines. Thoughts follow.
2011 Francis Ford Coppola Chardonnay Director’s Cut Russian River Valley – Surprisingly sweet, with lychee and mango notes up top, some lemon underneath. Modestly buttery body. The finish is a touch bittersweet. Altogether curious, but not overly balanced. B / $21
2011 Francis Ford Coppola Chardonnay Votre Sante California – “Burgundian style” Chardonnay, which is a little flabby and muted on the fruit notes. Some vanilla notes creep into what is otherwise a predominantly butter and wood affair, although a touch of lemon on the nose elevates things a bit. B- / $14
Continue reading “Review: 2011 Chardonnays of Francis Ford Coppola” »
Chile is rising as a source of great Cabernet Sauvignon, made all the better by its generally quite affordable pricing. These three Cabs come from the blue chip regions of Chile, and each cuts a very different profile on the palate. Thoughts follow.
2009 Tabali Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva Maipo Valley – Black- and blueberry notes pervade, with a bittersweet but quite pleasant (and food-friendly) finish. Some perfume dances in and out, both on the nose and the palate, leaving a lasting impression on the tongue. Needs some time in glass before gulping it down. B+ / $15
Continue reading “Tasting New Cabernets of Chile, 2013 Releases” »
This monster of a wine hails from Sicily and is made with its traditional grape, Nero d’Avola (65%), blended with Syrah (35%). Results are intense. The nose is biting and quite raisiny, hinting at Port-like characteristics. On the body, tons of deep fruit notes, leather, tobacco, and a long, tannic finish. A good match with a rich meal, but a little daunting on its own.
B / $30 / dalmin.it
The giant “Musque” on the label of this wine may throw you at first, but the body will do you one worse. A 100% unoaked Chardonnay made entirely from the Musque Clone No. 809, this is an aromatic and perfumy wine loaded with muscat-like flavors (hence the name of the clone). Big orange, honey, wildflower, and some nutty notes pervade the nose. The body backs those characteristics up and is quite sweet, nothing like the buttery, applesaucy Chardonnays you’re likely accustomed to. This is a vibrant fruit bomb that is so unusual it will wholly challenge your expectations of what Chardonnay can be. That, of course, is both a good thing and a bad.
B / $16 / crewwines.com
This tasting of Cabernet-centric Howell Mountain wines is always a highlight of the wine event season, and this rundown of a few dozen wineries in the region was no disappointment. We’ve covered the event for several years now, and this year’s tasting of primarily 2009 and 2010 Cabs, plus a smattering of library wines, offered lots to like.
Some favorites: Perennial faves Pina and O’Shaugnessy brought their A-games, while Atlas Peak, Bravante, and Outpost all dazzled as well, too. La Jota’s mountain Merlot was also worth a good look.
A special note for Cornerstone’s 1999 Cabernet. I tried this wine last year and found it a bit over-aged, but the bottle I sampled at this event was drinking quite nicely. Just goes to show how bottle variability becomes a bigger and bigger issue as the years wind on….
Thoughts on all wines tasted follow.
Tasting Report: Wines of Howell Mountain 2013
2009 Arkenstone Vineyards Obsidian / $120 / B+ / chewy, needs time
2010 Arkenstone Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc Howell Mountain / $55 / B+ / a bit tougher
2007 Atlas Peak Howell Mountain Cabernet / $60 / B+ / restrained, more fruit
2004 Atlas Peak Howell Mountain Cabernet / $75 / A / rich cocoa notes, drinking beautifully
2008 Blue Hall Vineyard Camiana Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / B+ / bold body, dark plums
2007 Bravante Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Howell Mountain / $65 / A / very chocolaty, some blueberry, great
2008 Bravante Merlot Estate Howell Mountain / $60 / B / milder, a little earth
2007 Bravante TRIO Napa Valley / $50 / B / very mild, simple (60% merlot, 35% cab, 5% cab franc)
2006 Bremer Family Howell Mountain Merlot / $75 / B / some menthol, tight
2006 Bremer Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $85 / B- / very chewy, tannic
2005 Bremer Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Cimarossa Vineyard / $85 / B / similar, quite big
2009 CADE Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain / $80 / B / very fruity, over-ripe
2009 Cakebread Dancing Bear Ranch Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $110 / A- / enormous, chewy chocolate
2010 Charles Krug Howell Mountain Cold Springs Vineyard Single Vineyard Red Blend / $125 / B / strange notes of swimming pool and sawdust (81% CS, 18% PV, 1% Malbec)
2009 Cimarossa Ravi Di Cimarossa Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / A- / lush fruit, black pepper
2009 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / A- / very lively, chocolate, blueberry, tart finish
1999 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $150 / A- / holding up well, smooth tannin, some wood, light finish
2010 Cresta Velia Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / B+ / juicy, quite sweet
2009 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet / $90 / B / big and burly
2009 Haber Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $95 / A- / great body, fruit meets wood
2010 Haber Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $120 / B / still quite tight, big wood notes
2008 Howell at the Moon Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $85 / B- / Old World style; a bit thin
2010 Howell Mountain Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / B+ / surprisingly sweet, especially for a 2010
2009 John Robert Eppler Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / B+ / modest, straightforward
2005 La Jota Howell Mountain Merlot / $70 / A / a big surprise; huge but balanced; lots of fruit and cocoa
2004 La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $NA / B+ / lots going on, very tannic, giant
2006 Neal Family Vineyards Howell Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / B / barnyard notes, big body, chewy
2008 Notre Vin Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $150 / B+ / smooth, amlost simple, easy fruit character
2009 O’Shaugnessy Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / A / lovely, great balance with supple fruit
2011 Outpost Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / A / lush and balanced; lovely and nearly perfect, even for a pre-release wine
2009 Pina Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Buckeye Vineyard / $85 / A / drinking perfectly; black pepper, fruit, long finish
2010 Pine Ridge Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $90 / B+ / drinking well, lots of wood, brambly, blackberries
2009 Press Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $50 / B / first vintage of 50 cases; young, some sweetness, like Jolly Ranchers
2008 Red Cap Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / A- / pretty, nice fruit, very fresh
2009 Red Cap Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / A- / similar, slightly bigger body
2009 Retro Cellars Retro Cellars Old Vine Howell Mountain Petite Sirah / $42 / B- / clunky, a bit pruny
2009 Roberts + Rogers Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $60 / B / huge fruit notes; long finish
2007 Sbragia Rancho del Oso Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / B+ / complicated, a little green; candylike finish
2009 Sbragia Cimarossa Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / A- / better balance; lively
2007 SPENCE Howell Mountain 100% Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / A- / lovely body; lush with an easy finish
2009 SPENCE Howell Mountain 100% Cabernet Sauvignon / $72 / B+ / tighter, more wood influence
2008 Summit Lake Emily Kestrel Howell Mountain Cabernet / $60 / A- / light jam notes; good body
Gary Farrell is based on Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, but it makes wines with fruit from all over California. Russian River, however, remains the focus. The 2010 bottlings are now hitting the market. We tasted through a solid sampling of five of them. Thoughts follow.
2010 Gary Farrell Chardonnay Russian River Valley Westside Farms – A crisp but modestly oaked California Chardonnay, made in the classic style with a buttery and nutty body, but balanced with a decent amount of acid on the back end. Some lemon notes add character, even if the depth is about average. B+ /$38
2010 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Carneros Ramal Vineyard – Very light, easy (not bright) cherry notes. Fresh, lots of acid, short and crisp finish. Some light black tea notes come along on the outro. A- / $50
Continue reading “Review: Wines of Gary Farrell, 2010 Vintages” »
Now in its fourth year, the Berkeley Wine Festival features a series of weekly dinners hosted by California winemakers. The dinners and the big kickoff takes place at Berkeley’s iconic Claremont Hotel, which I attended. Packed with attendees, the opening night featured tastings of over 180 wines, plus a smattering of foodstuffs prepared by Claremont chefs. With proceeds benefitting the Alameda County Food Bank, it’s not just a good time to mingle with friends, drink some wine, and watch the sunset from perhaps the best vantage point in the San Francisco Bay Area… it’s also doing something good. Thoughts on the wines I tried — nothing you probably haven’t seen me write about before — follow.
Tasting Report: 2013 Berkeley Wine Festival
2011 Amapola Creek Chardonnay Russian River Valley Jos. Belli Vineyards / B+ / see blog
2010 Clos du Val Merlot Napa Valley / B /
2010 Clos du Val Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / B- /
2011 Patz & Hall Chardonnay Sonoma Coast / A- / lively, solid lemon notes
2011 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast / A- /
2010 Domaine Carneros Pinot Noir Carneros / B+ /
2010 Barnett Vineyards Chardonnay Savoy / B+ / good body, a bit herbal\
2010 Palmaz Vineyards Chardonnay Napa Valley / B /
2012 Tres Sabores Sauvignon Blanc / B / huge acid, herbal
2010 Tres Sabores Zinfandel / B+ / supple, easygoing
2009 Tres Sabores Perspective Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford / B+ / big, dry-farmed 100% cab; Bordeaux style
2011 Hahn Family Pinot Noir Santa Lucia Highlands / B / rustic, earthy
2010 Capture Chardonnay Ma Vie Carol Sonoma County / A- / huge and rich, lots of nutty nots, light wood
2011 Capture Sauvignon Blanc / A / massive depth, lush, lemons and figs
2011 Capture Dark Rose / A- / rose of Cabernet Sauvignon, very fruity nose, chocolate and caramel
2011 ZD Winery Chardonnay / A- / lots of apple fruit
2011 Acacia Pinot Noir Carneros / B / simple
2011 J Vineyards Pinot Noir Russian River / B+ / very earthy, big finish
2008 Rosenblum Zinfancel Rockpile Road / B / dense, hefty
2011 Hook & Ladder Pinot Noir Russian River / B+ / easy, mild
The Portuguese don’t sit around sipping Vintage Port all day. For everyday drinking, they turn to some simple and very affordable wines. Increasingly, these wines have been coming to the U.S., letting us discover new grapes, like Antao Vaz, and new regions, like Alentejo, where these three wines hail from.
Alentejo covers most of the southern half of the country and encompasses a wide range of varietals and styles. Thoughts follow.
2010 Alente Vinho Branco Antao Vaz/Arinto DOC Alentejo – A white blend of Antao Vaz (60%) and Arinto (40%) grapes, the former being the most commonly grown white grape in the Alentejo region. Lots of herbal notes on the front of this wine, with a big body featuring restrained apple notes coming along behind. The finish is mildly bitter and lasting. Altogether it’s an interesting change from the usual fare, but an overall sense of balance just isn’t here. B- / $12
2009 Mariana Alentejo - A blend of 40% Aragonez, 30% Alicante Bouschet, 20% Trincadeira, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Rocky. Intensely herbal and funky earth on the nose. Not nearly that powerful on the body, which is super tart and almost jammy on the back end, though that creeping, decaying herb character comes along after a short while. Not a winner. D / $14
2009 Vinha do Mouro Tinto Estremoz Alentejo – A marginal improvement. Big barnyard notes, with a raisiny core. Some coffee notes, particularly on the finish. Ends up somewhat bittersweet. C- / $15
2007 marks the first year that Banfi’s new Horizon Winery got up and running, featuring new a fermenting system that uses oak cores with stainless steel caps to produce wine. The newly released Brunello, the first wine to come out of this winery, is reviewed below, along with a hot new Amarone from Sartori, one of Banfi’s labels. Thoughts follow.
2007 Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino – Brick red in color, this Brunello looks very old (it’s not) and almost oxidized (it shouldn’t be) after pouring. Initially a bit hoary and funky, things settle down with exposure to air. In the end we get lots of wood, a dense and tannic core, and notes of balsamic, licorice, and currants. Not altogether balanced. B- / $55 castellobanfi.com
2009 Sartori Amarone della Valpolicella – A classically structured Amarone, raisiny but full of fruit up front, with notes of tobacco and touched with strawberry jam. Tart and fresh (particularly on the finish), it’s not as heavy-duty as many Amarones, which makes it more easygoing when sipping on its own. B+ / $40 banfivintners.com
Ghost Pines is a label produced by Louis Martini, which is itself a subsidiary of the Gallo empire. These two new releases are single-varietal wines, blended from grapes harvested from both Sonoma and Napa counties. Thoughts follow.
2010 Ghost Pines Merlot – Made from 29% Napa County and 71% Sonoma County grapes. An easy-drinking Merlot, it offers a moderate to light body, pleasant with black cherry notes, and a surprisingly vibrant (and lightly sweet) chocolate finish. Simple, maybe overly so. B+ / $20
2010 Ghost Pines Cabernet Sauvignon – Made from 70% Napa County and 30% Sonoma County fruit, this straightforward Cabernet doesn’t take a lot of chances, but at $23 a bottle it doesn’t really need to. Light menthol notes play with a somewhat woody core that offers ample plum and raspberry character to balance it out. Modest finish, some tannin there too. Fades out fast. B / $23
How about some bubbles? Here are two delightful new Proseccos to try out.
2011 Bellenda Prosecco Superiore Conegliano Valdobbiadene – Slightly musty on the nose, this Prosecco makes up for that with a tart and fruity body that packs in plenty of flavor. Notes of peaches and light strawberry notes mingle with the simpler apple and citrus character. Pleasant, but the finish brings back a touch of that musty character that mars an otherwise vibrant wine. B+ / $16
NV Carpene Malvolti Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene Extra Dry DOCG (pictured) – Fizzier than most Proseccos, but full of fruit character. Big apple notes at the forefront, with a touch of figs and a hint of caramel. Smooth and rich, evening out as the bubbles start to settle down. Quite good. A- / $15
Stony Hill Vineyard is located in Napa Valley’s Spring Mountain AVA, where it specializes in white wines, particularly its award-winning Chardonnay. We sampled three of its latest releases for the 2013 drinking season. Thoughts follow.
2010 Stony Hill Chardonnay Napa Valley – Lemon, honeysuckle, and intriguing woody notes on the nose lead to a complex body, moderate in mouthfeel with light acidity. Here you find lots of orange and lemon notes, some honey — an almost Sauternes hint — midway through the finish. Don’t worry, it’s not a sugar bomb: The conclusion is dry and inviting, the honey character building on the nose as it warms in the glass. A real knockout. A / $42
Continue reading “Review: White Wines of Stony Hill, 2013 Releases” »
We’ve covered celebrity wine. Celebrity vodka. Celebrity Cognac. Even celebrity tequila.
This is definitively the first and likely the only celebrity sangria that we’ll ever see.
Mangria comes to us courtesy of sangria-lover Adam Carolla, who’s apparently still working the “man” angle on just about everything. Like Mansinthe, it’s a horrible name for a product, but it’s so insane it just might work.
Continue reading “Review: Mangria” »
Targeting a clearly younger, more modern, and cost-conscious drinker, Naked Rebel is a new brand that’s offering two wines at launch. One is quite good. Thoughts on both follow.
NV Pink Panda – “Sparkling grape wine with natural flavors.” Say what? There’s really no telling whats in this ultra-fruity concoction — it is reportedly a demi-sec rose of Alexander Valley Pinot — considering how full of strawberry and heavy rose-petal-perfume notes it is. In the quest to come across as playful, those “natural flavors” (a term typically reserved for wines heavily spiked with fruit juice) basically just come across as brutish and juvenile. Not really drinkable beyond a few sips. D / $18
2007 Naked Rebel California Red Wine – Don’t try to sift through the white-on-black-all-caps on the back of the bottle. This blend of Syrah and Oakville Cabernet is fairly delish without the verbiage. Touches of smoke on the nose lead to a plummy, Cab-heavy body that is heavy on the fruit. Now six years old, its tannins have faded enough to make things well integrated and reasonably balanced, though the relatively light body has trouble offering up much in the way of secondary notes. B+ / $20
We recently wrote about one of Mettler’s wines in our roundup of Lodi’s biggest names. The company recently sent a pair of additional bottlings to consider. Thoughts follow.
2010 Mettler Petite Sirah Estate Grown – Tons of fruit, jammy like a big Zinfandel. Light smoky notes and a huge body. This is a very sweet wine that rushes the palate with freshly-smashed blueberry and blackberry character, yet it’s surprisingly easy to drink. Not a terribly nuanced wine, but it worked fairly well both on its own and with a hearty meal. B / $25
2010 Mettler Old Vine Zinfandel Epicenter Lodi – A strange Zin. On the nose, traditional notes of blackberry, pepper, and black tea. But on the body, a much different picture emerges: these characteristics take on a stranger, much more exotic consistency. The tea notes come on strong, playing with some hefty wood character. The spice brings on a kind of sour rhubarb note that sweetens up after some exposure to air… but never quite enough. B- / $20
