Category Archives: Scotch

Review: Benromach Origins, Batch #1 Golden Promise 1999

We’re doing things a little backwards here. We’ve already reviewed Benromach’s second Origins series experimental Scotch whisky, and we’re backtracking to get to its first, Golden Promise 1999.

What is Golden Promise? A special type of barley developed in 1965, and one of the most popular in Scotch whiskeys. The Golden Promise used in this bottling was grown at Drumin Farm in Glenlivet. It’s considered one of the best barleys in the world and has won the prizes to prove it. This whiskey is made exclusively with this barley instead of a blend of lots of varieties, which is common.

The whisky is 9 years old, bottled in 2008. Otherwise the production is pretty par for single malt.

So, can you really “taste the barley” here? You can. As grain character goes, there’s plenty to go around. I’m not sure I know what raw (un-whiskyed) barley really tastes like, but I imagine it’s a lot like this. Big cereal character, with toasted grains, much like you’d get in a young American whiskey. Spicy and racy on the finish, it’s more convoluted than complicated.

Ultimately I think this whiskey feels a bit undercooked, and the grain character is too far in the foreground. More time in oak (possibly much more time) could temper some of that toast character, or a sherry cask finish might have rounded out the flavor profile.

But as an experiment, this is quite interesting: Pure grain, virtually no peat influence, and limited time in the barrel make for a curious whisky experience that’s worth a sample dram.

100 proof. (Batch #3 is shown below, but the bottles are nearly identical.)

B+ / $50 / benromach.com

benromach origins golden promise Review: Benromach Origins, Batch #1 Golden Promise 1999

Review: Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams 2011 Limited Release Scotch Whisky

The story behind the creation of Cask of Dreams is beyond anything else I’ve ever heard of in the five years I’ve been writing this blog.

If you don’t know the tale, draw near, and listen to the story of how you make a truly unique whisky.

Cask of Dreams starts with off-the-rick Glenfiddich, with Malt Master Brian Kinsman picking 14- to 16-year-old casks of the lightest style of whisky he could find.

Meanwhile, Glenfiddich ambassadors took 11 new, unused oak casks and took them to the streets of 11 U.S. cities. No, literally. They rolled them around, had locals sign them, then had a party to celebrate all things ‘Fiddich.

The 11 casks were then sent back to the Highlands of Scotland, and the whisky from those aforementioned casks was put into these new oak casks for finishing. New oak will age a spirit mighty fast, so it was watched carefully, bottling after three months in those “Casks of Dreams” at 97.6 proof. The whisky from those 11 casks was mingled in the final vatting: There’s only one 2011 Cask of Dreams, not 11 of them.

3,500 bottles were made, all to be sold in the U.S.

This is a unique and intriguing whisky. I can’t think of any other release that used new oak at any point in the creation. Notably, there is no ex-sherry wood in this blend, increasingly common for single malt whisky.

It’s really a lovely, and dangerously drinkable malt. Despite a respectable age and despite the new oak influence, it is remarkably light in body, lush with character. Vanilla pops out first on the nose, and that carries over to the body. Here you’ll also find big apple fruit — almost applesauce, with cinnamon notes, especially once you add water — plus lots of exotic cedar box and incense lacing. The finish turns to figs, golden raisins, and some cooked stone fruit flavors. But none of this is overcooked the way some old whiskys can be. There’s no real raw wood influence here, just that smooth vanilla that I chalk mainly up to the years it spends in ex-Bourbon barrels.

Cask of Dreams will be back in 2012, this time with an art-focused bent on the barrels and a more international vibe perhaps. Meanwhile, this bottling is already hard to find. Snap it up if you can.

A- / $100 / caskofdreams.com

glenfiddich cask of dreams 2011 Review: Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams 2011 Limited Release Scotch Whisky

Review: L.A. Burdick Robert Burns Collection

What do you give a whisky lover as a romantic gift? Well, you can give him whisky… or you can give him whisky-infused chocolates.

Recently it was suggested (or rather I was accused) of enjoying whisky confections more than the whisky itself (not true, I swear), and reader John Bratincevic turned me on to this collection of Scotch-infused chocolates released for Robert Burns’ birthday (January 25) from New Hampshire-based L.A. Burdick. The company was kind enough to send a sample box my way, and I’m going to tell you, if you can get them (they’re limited release confections), do it.

These aren’t those cheap, foil-wrapped Cointreau and Kahlua cordials your grandma used to give you once you were in your 30s. This is the real deal: A 1/2 pound box of truffles and bonbons flavored with Lagavulin, Macallan, Talisker, Springbank, Highland Park, and Glenfarclas — some of my favorite names in Scotch whisky.

The assortment spans 7 different items (only one is an unnamed “honey whiskey”), with about four to six pieces of each. Picking a favorite is tough. They are all wonderful. But if pressed, I’d go with the Highland Park (dark ganache with scent of grapefruit) and, surprisingly, the Talisker (currant-hazelnut ganache), both of which are complemented beautifully by the hints of fruit added to the ganache.

You can really taste the whisky in all of these confections — though the still let the chocolate shine through — and the bonbons are small enough to allow you to eat three or four without feeling disgusting afterward. All of these truffles are fabulous solo,  and are even better with whisky — either their namesakes or something else.

As I write this, the collection is only available as part of a combo with a Lunar New Year collection or as a set of two 1/2 lb. boxes. Do yourself a favor and pick one up either for yourself or for someone you love.

A / $31 / burdickchocolate.com

burdick robert burns collection chocolates scotch Review: L.A. Burdick Robert Burns Collection

Dates for Spring 2012 Single Malt & Scotch Whisky Extravaganza Announced – Discount Code Within

This just in from our friends at the Single Malt & Scotch Whisky Extravaganza:

Ladies and Gentlemen are cordially invited to enjoy a connoisseur’s evening featuring rare & exceptional single malt, Scotch and unique whiskies from around the world. The evening includes a delicious dinner buffet as well as a selection of premium imported cigars for our guests’ later enjoyment. The Single Malt & Scotch Whisky Extravaganza brings the discerning enthusiast the opportunity to sample the participating whiskies in a sophisticated and elegant environment with genuine camaraderie and knowledgeable representatives from each participating distillery.

All events from 7:00pm-9:00pm. Registration begins at 7:00pm. Business casual, Jackets preferred. No denim or athletic attire. Special rates for groups of 8 or more.

Use the promotional code “TDH2012″ to save $15 on each ticket. You can purchase tickets directly from the website or call us at 800.990.1991.

Here’s the Spring 2012 Extravaganza schedule. Fall dates, which will hit many more cities, to be announced soon.

ATLANTA

March 28, 2012 The Intercontinental Buckhead

3315 Peachtree Road NE Atlanta, GA 30326

HOUSTON

April 18, 2012 The Intercontinental Houston Near The Galleria

2222 West Loop South Houston, TX 77027

DALLAS

April 25, 2012 Dallas/Addison Marriott Quorum By The Galleria

14901 Dallas Parkway Dallas, TX 75254

DENVER

May 2, 2012 The Brown Palace Hotel

321 17th Street Denver, CO 80202

NEW YORK

May 10, 2012 The Roosevelt Hotel

Madison at 45th Street New York, NY 10017

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Finish 1991 and Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 Scotch Whiskys

We love Gordon & MacPhail around here. One of the biggest and most reliable independent Scotch whisky producers, its selection is insightful and its releases are utterly vast, with perhaps more than 100 bottlings on the market at any given time. Keeping up with G&M would be impossible even if it wasn’t incredibly expensive, but we were lucky to get our hands on two new releases from the exquisite “Private Collection” series. Thoughts follow.

Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Wood Finish 1991 – This 20 year old Speyside whisky spends 30 long months in ex-Cote Rotie wine barrels. I’ve had mixed luck with Rhone Valley wine barrel finishes, but this one hits on all cylinders. Rich and smooth, velvety almost, it starts with honey, vanilla, and nougat notes, then brings on lots of eastern spices — cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne pepper. Citrus oil fades in and out, along with some malty grain notes at the end. Complex but beautifully balanced and a bargain for a 20 year old malt. 90 proof. 1900 bottles made. A / $80

Gordon & MacPhail Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 – Take a 14-year old smoky Islay and finish it in Hermitage wine barrels for 30 months and what do you get? Well, it’s interesting but a little muddy: Heavy peat on the nose, and plenty more on the tongue. The Hermitage tries to cut through this, particularly in the finish, but what manages to get across is little more than some relatively undefined orange peel sweetness. The color — a deep amber — hints at a lot of fruit. I do think it’s in there. Somewhere. 90 proof. 800 bottles made. B+ / $80

gordonandmacphail.com

Review: Highland Park 1998 Vintage

Distilled in 1998, bottled in 2010, this special edition of Highland Park 12 Years Old is only available in duty free shops, where I picked one up in the airport during my recent trip to Frankfurt, Germany.

Tragically I don’t have any of the standard HP12 here to compare it against, but I did sample it alongside my old standby Highland Park 18 Years Old just to see the family bond.

Highland Park 1998, distilled for the distillery’s 200th anniversary, offers the classic mix of sweet and smoke that Highland Park is known for. Nougat and honey are strong in the forefront, along with orange marmalade character. More smokiness — sweet peat and charcoal fire — than you would think comes on in the finish, lasting and lightly warming.

The 1998 lacks the strong sherry character of HP18, and doesn’t quite nail that amazingly full and silky body, either. Still, the 1998 is quite a lovely dram with plenty of fireside character to recommend it.

80 proof.

A- / 45 euros per 1 liter bottle / highlandpark.co.uk

highland park 1998 Review: Highland Park 1998 Vintage

Body Found in Glenfiddich Vat

Surprised this doesn’t happen all the time.

A distillery worker’s body has been discovered in the Glenfiddich plant in Banffshire.

Tributes have been paid to team leader Brian Ettles, 46, who died at the plant in Moray on Saturday.

It is understood that he was found dead in a 16ft distillery vat filled with water and yeast. Police would not comment on where Mr Ettles’ body was discovered.

 

“Vatted” Malts No More

Whisky Advocate reports on the end of an era, terminologically speaking, anyway. In November the term “vatted” was declared illegal in Britain to use on whisky labels. The last legally “vatted” whisky was mixed up last night.

Vatted malts are a mixture of malts from different distilleries; they are distinct from blended whisky because they contain no grain whisky. But a few years ago the Scotch Whisky Association moved to have the term outlawed, and to have it replaced with the term “blended malt whisky.” Critics of the change, including Glaser and Compass Box, were vociferous in their opposition because they argue that the new term is far too similar to the term ‘blended whisky,’ and it is very difficult to explain to people, particularly in languages other than English.

For the record, I agree with Compass Box… farewell to the vat!

Review: Glen Garioch 1994 Vintage Scotch Whisky

Merry Christmas, dear readers! Hope your festivities are going well and you’re enjoying your favorite tipple. As for me, I’m sampling a new single malt whisky: Glen Garioch 1994 Vintage.

The somewhat simple spirits from Highlands-located Glen Garioch aren’t major names in the whisky world, and it’s trying to change that with upscale releases like this vintage-dated offering.

Glen Garioch 1994 is one of the last ever peated whiskys from this distillery (which was mothballed in 1995 before reopening a few years later, and it hasn’t used peat since). Bottled this year, you can do the math: It spent 17 years in ex-Bourbon casks.

The light straw color is surprising, and it would not normally indicate a whisky of this age. The nose, light and easy but with a smoky undertone, also screams more of youth than you’d expect. On the palate, the play between smoke and sweet are curious. There’s a butterscotch, caramel, and apple quality to the body… then the peat smoke rolls in, like a campfire that’s just getting started while you’re eating dessert. The flavors are complementary though, and even those who aren’t big peat fans will likely find the dram mild enough for easy consumption. (Even at 107.8 proof, it’s not a scorcher.)

The only thing lacking really is balance, as the elements here are not quite in harmony. I do like the way sweetness comes back to play in the finish, because while 1994 nods to Glen Garioch’s past, it goes out with a bow toward its future.

107.8 proof.

B+ / $110 / glengarioch.com

glen garioch 1994 vintage Review: Glen Garioch 1994 Vintage Scotch Whisky

 

Review: Auchentoshan Valinch 2011 and 1999 Vintage Bordeaux Matured Whiskys

Auchentoshan is in just about every way an oddity. It’s the only distillery in the city of Glasgow (making it a Lowlands whisky), and it’s the only Scotch whisky that’s distilled three times instead of the usual two (meaning it comes off the final still at an incredibly high 162 proof). The house style uses unpeated barley.

I’ve long dismissed Auchentoshan as making rather simplistic, uninteresting whiskys, but these two impressive yet affordable, limited release bottlings have me rethinking the brand and digging into my archives to re-sample its standard releases. While these two new spirits are going to be incredibly hard to find, both are more than worth your while to do so.

Auchentoshan Valinch 2011 Limited Edition – This is simply a cask strength version of Auchentoshan Classic, a $30, non-age-statement spirit. Pale in color, hugely sweet, with burnt and brown sugar character on the tip of the tongue. Tropical notes follow, pineapple and lots of banana. Quite a bit of coconut and smoke on the finish, reminding one of the simplicity of Classic, but the much higher proof actually makes for a much more fulfilling whisky by giving it more oomph, although it still manages not to come across as overly hot. 2000 bottles made, 1200 available in the U.S. 115 proof. A- / $60

Auchentoshan 1999 Bordeaux Cask Matured – This isn’t a Bordeaux finished whisky, it’s a Bordeaux matured whisky: It has spent 11 full years in a former red wine cask, rather than just a few months getting a little finish in an oddball barrel, the normal M.O. for artisanal whisky makers. Bottled at cask strength, this deep amber whisky is quite a marvel. It starts off with a traditional malty character but very quickly takes you down a rabbit hole of exotic flavors. Wood is predominant, with a big caramel punch and lots of vanilla, too. The spice kicks in in the end, gingerbread, spiked apple punch, cherries, and fruitcake. Lots going on here, and definitely worth a look if you can find it (just 300 bottles are available in the U.S.). The price is criminally low. 116 proof. A / $70

auchentoshan.com