Category Archives: Bourbon

Review: Buffalo Trace Oat Bourbon Whiskey and Rice Bourbon Whiskey

God bless Buffalo Trace. Some of the most interesting and intriguing whiskeys in the world are coming out of this massive outfit, many of which are branded, appropriately, with “Experimental Collection” on the label.

These two oddball whiskeys are BT’s last Experimental Bourbons from 2011, and they arrived at Drinkhacker HQ with quite a bit of baggage, considering my colleague John Hansell wrote about them last month with the headline, “Don’t buy this whiskey!” Including the exclamation point.

Both of these whiskeys are 9 years old, aged alongside each other in a high floor, created using traditional recipes and techniques — with one twist. While the primary starch in the mashbill of both is corn, and both feature barley as well, instead of rye or wheat they both turn instead to an odd additional grain as a kicker: respectively, oats or — wow — rice.

Both are 90 proof. Here’s how they stack up.

Buffalo Trace Oat Bourbon Whiskey is a burly, amber monster. The nose is enticing, all toffee and caramel, wood and charcoal. Sipping reveals something a bit different. Foremost: Alcoholic burn, the kind of heat you get from a really young Bourbon. Hansell is right about that: This has a hard edge to it that’s impossible to push past, and while I hesitate to point the finger at the oats (I’ve found High West’s oat-based white whiskey quite the delight), there is something a bit too tough in this. Balance? Not here. There are hefty green vegetables in the body, so much so that I think my mother must be proud that I’m drinking this. That finish is long, lasting, and a bit on the foreboding side. Peppery, full of coconut husks and burnt toast. And yet… it’s not entirely unpleasant, in the way that Islay whisky or really old Pappy Van Winkle can be. I can see all the nuts that suck down George T. Stagg gulping this stuff down by the gallon… if gallons of it existed. B

Buffalo Trace Rice Bourbon Whiskey is lighter on the nose, and more easygoing than the Oat Whisky. At the same time, it shares some DNA in that heavy burn of a finish, one which is redolent of, bluntly, too much time in wood. The body proper is one of orange marmalade, hot coals, a bit of vanilla, and grain husks. There’s certainly nothing “rice like” in the mix, but, as with the Oat rendition, it’s a whiskey that merely cries out for something. B

each $46 per 375ml bottle / buffalotrace.com

 

 

 

 

Review: Jim Beam Red Stag Honey Tea and Red Stag Spiced with Cinnamon

Red Stag — black cherry flavored Bourbon whiskey — was a bit pioneering on its own. And while it isn’t the only flavored whiskey we’ve encountered, now try this on: Two new versions of Red Stag (which is still based on a standard, four-year-old Bourbon), one with honey and tea flavors, one with cinnamon. I can’t be sure, but I believe this is the first flavored flavored whiskey to hit the market. We got an early taste of both of the new varieties. Here’s what we thought.

UPDATE: John, in the comments below, is correct. “Red Stag” is a new brand name, not an indicator of black cherry. So, no, there shouldn’t be black cherry notes in these. My bad.

Red Stag Honey Tea shouldn’t really surprise anyone — honey and tea are the two biggest flavors in the whiskey world right now. Now putting them together and adding them to whiskey that’s already black cherry flavored isn’t something I would have thought of. Sure enough, this is a convoluted spirit with a lot going on. The honey comes through the strongest, surprising me, and beating back the tea character handily. It’s a whole lot to deal with, but not entirely unpleasant. Basically, you should consider this to be Beam’s entry into the honey-flavored Bourbon category (everyone else in Kentucky has one) and less an expansion of the Red Stag line. B+

Red Stag Spiced with Cinnamon – Again, fairly self-explanatory? The cinnamon notes are strongest here, offering a light, Hot Tamales character to this spirit, punching aside just about everything else. There are some fruit notes in the nose, oddly enough, which is where the cinnamon barely comes through at all. Again, think of this one as cinnamon first, whiskey second. Not at all bad. B+

Both are 80 proof and arrive on shelves early this year.

each $18 / jimbeam.com

Red Stag Honey Tea and Spiced with Cinnamon Review: Jim Beam Red Stag Honey Tea and Red Stag Spiced with Cinnamon

Red State Bourbon vs. Blue State Bourbon: Which Will You Choose?

As political season heats up, our friends at Heaven Hill have a question for you: Are you a Blue State or a Red State kind of guy?

The idea is pretty genius: Two Bourbons, one called Blue State and one called Red State, complete with appropriate donkey/elephant imagery. Can the political leanings of the country be determined based on where they spend their whiskey money? You can even vote for your favorite on the whiskey’s website.

I sampled the product and, as Heaven Hill promised, it’s “basic bourbon… just for fun, really.” 80 proof and quite traditional in every way. The wood notes are strong, but the caramel and vanilla flavors have a moderate pronunciation, too. Big, raw wood character returns on the finish. It’s young stuff — alcoholic fumes are quite prevalent — but give it some air and it’s easily drinkable without a mixer or water. That said, I expect the vast majority of either of these whiskeys will go down with Coke, 7-Up, or ginger ale. In other words, don’t go looking for a lot of complexity in this Bourbon: Just an easy-to-swallow, relatively harmless concoction that’s designed to get you tipsy — just like your typical political candidate! I’d give it a B if you pushed me.

So which Bourbon is better? Alas, dear reader, while the packaging is wildly different, inside they are exactly the same. A better statement about politics I can’t imagine. Hats off to you, Heaven Hill.

about $15 each / redbluebourbon.com

Review: Big Bottom Whiskey Port Cask Finish 3 Years Old

I liked Big Bottom’s 2 Year Old Port Cask Finished Whiskey so much I named it my top American whiskey of the year. What could be better then than Big Bottom Port Finished Whiskey, one year older?

With this second batch of whiskey, the Bourbon is older (3 years, one day) before it went into the Port casks, and it spends longer in the finishing barrels (4-5 months instead of 3-4 months). The barrels were also turned over more quickly: This time the finishing barrels spent only 30 days idle and empty; with batch one they were empty for about four months before the whiskey went in.

Those are the mechanical differences, what about the taste? I sadly don’t have any of the first batch of whiskey left, so comparisons are tough. But versus my notes and the similarly made Angel’s Envy, this is a whiskey where the wood is clearer in its influence, muting somewhat the Port character.

That said, the whiskey is spry and racy, spicy confection that balances sweet with lots of peppery spice, cinnamon, cloves, raisins, and with wood running through all of it. Great balance, but quite a different spirit. I like it almost as much as the original, which is evidenced by the fact that by the time I got to writing this review, my sample bottle was already empty.

91 proof.

A / $30 / bigbottomwhiskey.com

3 Year Port Cask Bottle Image Review: Big Bottom Whiskey Port Cask Finish 3 Years Old

Review: Rebel Yell Bourbon

Will Rebel Yell have you crying “More, more, more?”

Admittedly the name does not instill the confidence of high quality. Like Fighting Cock, perhaps, it connotes a rough and tumble Old West style. I poured a glass and prepared to be burned in more ways than one.

I was surprised to find that Rebel Yell is far more innocuous than its vocal name might imply. First off, it’s a wheated Bourbon, which invariably lends itself to more softness. While age isn’t disclosed, the whiskey does feel a bit young, and there’s a certain kick and brashness to be found in the raw grain character. But it’s not altogether rough, just a bit pungent.

Stepping back, Rebel Yell has largely classic wheated Bourbon characteristics: Vanilla, a lively undercurrent of cinnamon, and wood notes. That graininess lingers on the finish, but it isn’t unpleasant. For all its rough-and-tumble aspirations, Rebel Yell ultimately comes together as one of the lighter and simpler whiskeys I’ve tried in recent memory.

80 proof.

B+ / $13 / rebelyellwhiskey.com

rebel yell whiskey Review: Rebel Yell Bourbon

Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Three

We’re now 36 whiskeys into the 192 to be produced as part of Buffalo Trace’s Single Oak Project. Check out our coverage of Round One and Round Two to catch up if you’re unsure what this series of very limited-release Bourbons is all about.

How does this round measure up? This time, all of the whiskeys were aged in concrete warehouses, in #4 char barrels with 6 months of seasoning (or air drying), and in barrels made from the bottom half of the tree. What differs this round: The rye vs. wheat mashbill, the entry proof (how hot the whiskey is when it goes into the barrel — either 105 or 125 proof), and the tightness of the wood grain). It’s the first time in the project that entry proof has been altered during a testing round.

Away we go with the testing! All were tasted blind, and the provenance information is added afterward. All Bourbons are again 90 proof.

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #8 – A really solid entry, heavier on the spicy character than most of the round. Good balance, with more of a sugar-forward character than the otherwise similar barrel #167. A close second place to that barrel. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #24 – Hot, tastes like an overproof Bourbon. Not getting much character out of this, just some light grain characteristics. It’s like the wood just didn’t give up its essence in the service of this whiskey. C+ (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #40 – Good all-around balance here: Sweet nougat character plus spicy notes, but the finish veers toward the spice. The body’s a touch on the thin side. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #56 – An odd finish mars this Bourbon. Terribly ard to place, it tastes a bit like coconut, banana, and rubber. Intriguing due to its tropical uniqueness, it comes across like a “world whiskey” instead of Bourbon — and something wholly unlike any of the other whiskeys in this collection… for better or for worse. B (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #72 – Caramel apples here, bit of bite on the finish, but otherwise relatively unremarkable. B (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #88 – Sweet and traditional, but with a hard edge to it, a kind of bitter finish that mars a promising start. B- (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #104 – Smooth, quite sweet. Lots of caramel on this one, with a distinct vanilla kick. One for the sweet tooths, but not a lot of nuance. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #120 – Distinct mint notes are prominent in this one, another “big” and moderately woody whiskey that carries with it a surprisingly sweet finish. B+ (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #136 – The mild nose is misleading: The whiskey beneath the surface is racy and literally overflowing with spiciness and a lush, wood kick. Fans of big rye whiskeys are going to enjoy this one, but traditionalists may find it too overpowering. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #152 – A smooth operator. Classic vanilla/caramel body, very mild. A touch of menthol in the finish, but it’s fleeting, a bit like an Andes mint after a creme caramel dessert. A- (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #167 – Great balance here, love the intense caramel and vanilla notes and just a hint of cinnamon to give it depth. Incredibly rich, this is probably my favorite whiskey in this batch. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #184 – Heavy apple character here, moderate wood influence. The balance is imperfect, though, with a somewhat hard edge to the finish. B (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, bottom half of tree)

What did we learn this time around? In no round did a lower-entry-proof whiskey outscore the higher-entry-proof whiskey, which is not surprising. Water simply doesn’t age as well as alcohol in wood: When you drink a whiskey with a lower entry proof you’re really drinking more wood-flavored water than actual Bourbon. Once again there were good ryes and good wheated whiskeys — and the wood grain didn’t seem to be a major factor in this batch.

For the record, Buffalo Trace says that the favorite barrels (based on ratings on the website) from the first 24 released are numbers 61 and 127, both wheated Bourbons with wood from the top half of their respective trees (and both from round two). Neither of those were standouts in my earlier reviews.

$46 each (375ml bottle) / singleoakproject.com

Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project  Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Three

Review: Evan Williams Single Barrel Bourbon 2002 Vintage

One of the highlights of the Drinkhacker year is always the arrival of the Evan Williams Single Barrel Bourbon release, which is invariably just coming out of cask from a bit over nine years earlier. We’ve reviewed EW Single Barrel since the 1999 release and, even better, I’ve got all four bottles on hand to do a long-term comparison of how this Bourbon has evolved over time. (That said, the company’s been doing this since 1986, so I’m barely scratching the surface.)

Lining up all four, it’s clear to see how the Single Barrel has taken a more and more forceful approach over time. Putting them all side by side, the 1999 is a bit on the thin side and slightly bitter, then comes the near-perfect 2000, with its amazing balance. 2001 pushes the wood character a bit further, and 2002 continues that trend.

With this Bourbon, distiller Heaven Hill keeps pushing wood at us. Drawn from barrels held on a high floor in the rickhouse, the 2012 Single Barrel offers classic Bourbon flavor, rich with caramel, vanilla, and huge rye spices (though the mashbill for this whiskey is undisclosed). There’s some citrus in the middle, fleeting. Compared to other entries, the 2002 shows a bit of a tough finish, coming across a little like dried herbs muddying the body. Things open up a bit with time in the air, but the overall impact is that of a whiskey that’s seen a tad too much time in wood. Still definitely worth a shot, considering the price.

Barrel #1 reviewed. To be released in January 2012. 86.6 proof.

A- / $26 / evanwilliams.com

Evan Williams Single Barrel 2002 Vintage Review: Evan Williams Single Barrel Bourbon 2002 Vintage

Drinkhacker’s 2011 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for Christmas

Happy Thanksgiving! While you’re enjoying your turkey, stuffing, and pie, many a thanksgiver’s thoughts turn to booze. Specifically, what one might buy for a favored loved one come holiday time. I’ve collected all my favorite spirits from 2011 here for you, but this is just a small sampling of what’s worthy on the market right now. Scan through the category of your choice for other ideas, and chime in with your own gift ideas!

Also check out our 2010, 2009, and 2008 holiday guides.

big bottom two years old 212x300 Drinkhacker’s 2011 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for ChristmasBourbon – Big Bottom Whiskey 2 Years Old Port Cask Finish ($40) – Technically not a Bourbon, but close enough. I gave only two A+ grades (outside of event coverage) all year, and this was one of them. Finding this now will be tough (we’ll have a review of the 3 Years Old version shortly), so if this doesn’t pan out try Parker’s Heritage Collection Cognac Finished 10 Years Old ($80) or Col. E.H. Taylor Old Fashioned Sour Mash Bourbon ($70). You can also try Angel’s Envy ($45), technically a 2010 release but also Port-finished and about as good as Big Bottom.

Scotch – The Glenlivet Founder’s Reserve ($375) – This is my “go-to” whisky right now, though it’s rapidly depleting, and the price may make it a big much for anyone short of a spouse. If you can find  Glenfiddich Snow Phoenix ($95) or Laphroaig Cairdeas ($60), both make outstanding gifts. And MacKinlay’s “Shackleton” ($150) is worth the price alone for the conversation value.

GinBloom Gin ($29) – No question on this one. The floral but not perfumy Bloom is one of my favorite gins today. It may be made for a woman, but it’s powerful enough for a man.

russian standard gold vodka 185x300 Drinkhacker’s 2011 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for ChristmasVodka – Russian Standard Gold Vodka – At $45, it’s pushing the boundaries of what anyone should pay for a neutral spirit, but it’s good and the package is striking enough to require no wrapping paper, saving you a few bucks. For your more avant-garde friends, check out Sub Rosa’s Flavored Vodkas ($30) or a bottle of Skyy Blood Orange ($18).

Rum – Montanya Platino Rum ($30) – So much good rum came out this year, but Montanya’s simple, pure, and bracing white rum is my winner for what you should give a loved one. Bottled in Colorado, not Latin America, they’ll immediately want to know more. For more traditional gifts, I also loved Berrys’ Own Panama Rum 10 Years Old ($80) and Brugal Extra Viejo ($27).

Brandy – “Original Gangster” XO Brandy ($25) – This gift works on a couple of levels. First, the packaging and name are so ridiculous that your hipster friends will get a solid, 25 dollar laugh out of it. Second, the brandy is actually pretty good, so you can actually drink it when you’re done giggling.

TequilaCasa Dragones ($275) – The other A+ I gave this year, but considering the price of this. Tequila is still on the rise, and lots of good stuff is on the market, including Gran Dovejo Blanco ($47), El Gran Jubileo Extra Anejo ($65), and Excellia Blanco ($50), among many others.

Liqueur – Tatratea (up to $60) - A collection of five tea-flavored liqueurs, each increasing in proof level. Exotic and bizarre, and totally worthwhile for the liquor snob who has everything. Home cocktail enthusiasts would also love a little Pimento Dram ($28) or the all-new Drambuie 15 ($56).

Need another custom gift idea? Drop me a line or leave a comment here and I’ll offer my best advice!

“Chasing Pappy” Seeks Whiskey, Funding

Pappy Van Winkle is one of the most legendary brands in Bourbon today… so why not make a movie about the whiskey’s fans, who often have to hunt high and low to find the Bourbon they love so much? That’s what Mark Casey is up to, and he’s trying to raise $3,000 to get his movie (a short subject documentary) made. I’m kicking in a few bucks on Kickstarter to help… how about you?

Tasting Report: WhiskyFest San Francisco 2011

WhiskyFest remains the whiskey enthusiast’s festival to beat. With hundreds of whiskeys, it is a mad dash for all sorts of great stuff — if only you can find it in the scattered auditorium and muscle your way to the front of the line. Don’t worry, you can do it, and even though the 2011 installment of this awesome event had more than its share of no-shows from the advance whisky list — Isle of Jura Shackleton, Tomatin 30 Year Old, Pierre Ferrand Ancestrale Cognac, the entire Usqueabach table — there were so many amazing whiskeys here it is hard to complain.

Favorites were unilaterally from the private bottling companies, including Duncan Taylor’s killer 36 Year Old Lonach Blend, Gordon & MacPhail Glen Grant 21 Years Old — all that time in ex-sherry butts — and maybe by new favorite whisky ever, Samaroli Evolution 2011. Notes on all of these follow, plus comments (however brief) on everything else I sampled during the evening.

Thanks again to Whisky Advocate (nee Malt Advocate) for putting on such a terrific show (and inviting me).

Scotland

Samaroli Evolution 2011 / A+ / this Rome-based private whisky bottler was a fave at the Aspen Food & Wine Classic, and this bottling was a revelation; a vatting of whisky stocks dating back to 1957, it is incredibly supple, complex, and impossible to put down

Samaroli Glenlivet Top Class 1977 / A- / amazing elegance

Samaroli Linkwood Top Class 1983 / B+ / bit tougher

Samaroli Glenburgie 1989 / B+ / rich and chewy

Samaroli Highland Park 1989 / B+ / has an edge to it

Samaroli Bunnahabhain 1990 / B+ / surprising sweetness

Auchentoshan Valinch / B / hard finish

Auchentoshan Bordeaux 1999 / B+ / sweetness up front leads to a rough finish

Auchentoshan 21 Year Old / B+ / my fave of the Auch line, better balance

Glen Garioch Founder’s Reserve / B

Glen Garioch 1994 Vintage / B / big nougat notes lead to a strange, funky finish

Tomatin Highland Single Malt 25 Year Old / B+ / almost American in styling, sweet finish

Tomatin Highland Single Malt Decades / A- / a vatting of 5 decades’ worth of whisky; complex and lots of fun

Isle of Jura Superstition / A- / nice balance with the peat here

Isle of Jura 16 Year Old / B / big grain notes, exotic

Laphroaig Triple Wood / B+ / finished in sherry, which adds just a touch of citrus to standard Laphroaig’s peat and iodine; interesting but could go farther

Gordon & MacPhail Benromach 10 Year Old / B / young but charming

Gordon & MacPhail Caol Ila Port Finish 10 Year Old / B+ / nice mix of smoke and sweet, needs more aging

Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood 15 Year Old / A-

Gordon & MacPhail Glen Grant 21 Years Old / A / spends all 21 years in sherry casks, an amazing whisky, deep and rich (by far the darkest Scotch I saw all night)

Gordon & MacPhail Tamdhu 30 Years Old / B+ / a bit over the hill, wood-wise

Compass Box Great King Street / A- / a masterful blended whisky

Springbank 14 Year Old Manzanilla Cask / B+ / big olive notes

Springbank 18 Year Old / B+ / not feeling it tonight; too much of a coal character

Kilkerran WIP 3rd Release / B+ / like Kilbeggan, Kilkerran is doing releases as its whisky ages; at 3 years old it is young but exciting, lots of promise ahead

Duncan Taylor Banff 35 Year Rich and Rare / A / amazing fruit and wood here, lovely finish

Duncan Taylor Lonach Blend 36 Year / A / cinnamon and apple pie, all sorts of fun

GlenDronach 21 Year Old Parliament / B+ / curious wood and spice notes

GlenDronach 15 Year Old 1995 Pedro Ximenez Cask #2045 / B

Macallan 18 Year Old / A-

Highland Park 25 Year Old / A- / musky finish

Bruichladdich Black Art 2 / B+ / finish delves deep into grain character

Bruichladdich Octomore 3/152 / A- / the new “most peated” whisky in the world, actually quite pleasant and not the bowl-you-over dram I was expecting; more like a barbecue than a smoke bomb

Ardbeg Corryvreckan / A

Ardbeg Alligator / A- / Ardbeg’s latest, aged in ultra-charred oak barrels; the wood really does battle with the peat here, giving it a curious but less enthralling character, I think

Ireland

Redbreast 12 Years Old / B+ / really woody kick; the reputation exceeds the whisky

Redbreast 15 Years Old / B+ / not terribly different

United States

Bardstown Riverboat Rye Whiskey / B / a younger version of Redemption Rye

Bardstown Temptation Bourbon / A- / good sweetness, balance

Bardstown Barrel Proof High Rye Bourbon / A / intensely rye-focused, and intensely alcoholic; not released (the company is hoping for 2012)

Koval Lion’s Pride Spelt Whiskey / B+ / aged 2 years; not bad, lots of grain character

Wild Turkey Russell’s Reserve 10 Years Old / A- / love the rye kick; probably better since it was poured by Jimmy Russell himself (picture below!)

George Dickel Barrel Select / A- / nice rye going on here

Not Whiskey

Frapin Cognac VS / A- / 4 years old; surprisingly clean for a $49 Cognac

Frapin Cognaac Chateau de Fontpinot XO / A- / big nose on it, great citrus and sherry finish

Frapin Cognac  VIP XO / A- / quite similar to the Fontpinot

Frapin Cognac Extra / A / 75 years old, extremely complex, mellow, and lingering

Pierre Ferrand Cognac Selection des Anges / A- / beautiful, smooth

Pierre Ferrand Cognac Cigare / A / not smoky, and in fact not as big a body as you’d expect with a name like that; very well crafted and lush; drink with or without a cigar

Tequila Corrido Extra Anejo Barrel #2 / A / a killer, and the only tequila here; lovely chocolate finish

chris null and jimmy russell Tasting Report: WhiskyFest San Francisco 2011

Review: Firefly Sweet Tea Bourbon

Firefly’s Sweet Tea Vodka was a pioneer in the tea-flavored vodka space. The South Carolina-based company has since expanded with multiple varieties (peach, mint, lemon, low-cal)… and now there’s this: Firefly Sweet Tea Bourbon.

This category already exists (Jeremiah Weed has a stellar one), so the company has competition. Firefly’s version blend’s Buffalo Trace whiskey with real sweet tea (no vodka in this one, apparently), but bottles it at a mere 60 proof instead of 70, like regular Firefly. The result is, frankly, on the weak side, and a bit out of balance. The tea could be stronger, the Bourbon could be punchier, the combo a little more interesting. Instead, I get a kind of sugary wood character that doesn’t really taste like either of these great flavors. But I think the very heavy sugar finish is what undoes it the most.

Still, not an unpalatable quaff, and the nose is actually pretty spot-on, heavy with tea notes and a touch of Bourbon’s vanilla and wood character. It’s just too bad it doesn’t follow-through perhaps the way it could when it actually comes time to drink it.

B+ / $18 / fireflyvodka.com

Cocktail ideas from Firefly…

The Sweet Shot

1 part Firefly Sweet Tea Flavored Bourbon
½ part Firefly Raspberry Sweet Tea Flavored Vodka

Shake with ice and strain into a shot glass

Igniter Martini

In a shaker with ice mix:

2 parts Firefly Sweet Tea Flavored Bourbon
1/2 part cinnamon schnapps
Splash of cherry juice

Pour into chilled martini glass, sprinkle with cinnamon, add cherry garnish

Firefly Sunrise 

Fill a tall rocks glass with ice. Add:

1 part Firefly Sweet Tea Flavored Bourbon
½ part triple sec
Splash or orange juice
Splash of cranberry juice

Add orange wedge and a cherry garnish

Firefly Sweet Tea Bourbon Review: Firefly Sweet Tea Bourbon

Review: Parker’s Heritage Collection Cognac Finished Bourbon 10 Years Old (2011)

One of the most hotly anticipated new whiskeys to come out each year is the annual bottling of Parker’s Heritage Collection. Each year, Parker Beam puts together something dangerous and delicious, a blend of rare whiskeys, odd finishes, or just plain good Bourbon.

For this release, the fifth Heritage bottling, Beam turned to an unusual finish: Cognac barrels. Cognac casks are very unusual as a finishing wood, and I’ve only encountered it a few times in the spirits world — and I’ve never tasted a Bourbon with a Cognac finish before, a testament to how rare good, used Cognac barrels can be.

This limited release Bourbon spent 10 years in high-elevation ricks before being put into oversized Limousin oak barrels that held three-year-old Grande Champagne Cognac from Frapin Cellars. The Bourbon rested for six months in the new barrels before being bottled.

The results are, as usual for the Collection, amazing. This is a huge (and very dark colored) Bourbon, and the Cognac comes through clearly, giving this Bourbon a lot more sweetness than most. But at the same time, it’s richly complex, with raisin, cinnamon, and smoldering wood notes. Long finish, with a character similar to that of many Port-finished whiskeys. The 100 proof alcohol level makes it burn hot, so try a touch of water to help coax out more of those spicy notes. This is one you’ll want to revisit over and over.

A / $80 / bardstownwhiskeysociety.com

Parkers Cognac Finished Bourbon Review: Parkers Heritage Collection Cognac Finished Bourbon 10 Years Old (2011)

Review: Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2011 Edition

Like all of us, Old Fo keeps getting older, and this year it’s a 12-year-old bottling of 98 proof whiskey drawn from 62 barrels at the Old Forester rickhouse.

Can 2011′s Birthday Bourbon measure up to 2010′s masterpiece? Sadly, I’ve none of the ’10 left for comparative purposes, but the 2011 immediately strikes me as a bit too hot from the start. A splash of water makes the whiskey more palatable, exposing more nuance than first blush would indicate. On the nose: Caramel, vanilla, some floral notes, and lots of wood. In the mouth, there’s fruit — a bit of apple pie — and more dark char.

Finding the right balance between whiskey and water is tricky, but once you do, Old Fo ’11 is perfectly drinkable. What it’s not is a miracle, as ultimately the otherwise flavorful elements of this whiskey are drowned out by wood — a common problem with some Old Forester bottlings in general. In today’s wood-happy whiskey environment, that may be a welcome thing, but to this reviewer it’s a little sad to see the fruit, flowers, and sweetness get drowned out.

B / $50 / oldforester.com

old forester birthday bourbon 2011 Review: Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2011 Edition

 

Review: Buffalo Trace Antique Collection 2011 Edition

We’ve been writing about Buffalo Trace’s awe-inspiring Antique Collection for longer than I can remember, and each year it seems like these five Bourbons are better than the last time out. This year that streak seems to be taking a breather, with a mixed bag of very good and merely “OK” whiskeys.

I’d still drink any of these in a pinch but, hey, every year can’t be a masterpiece!

Sazerac Rye 18 Year Old – If you like rye you’re going to love this rendition. Massively intense on the nose, it screams on the palate with heavy middle Eastern spices, toffee, and lacy smokiness. Could use a touch more sweetness to lighten up the finish, but on the whole it’s yet another winner from Sazerac. 90 proof. A-

Eagle Rare 17 Year Old Bourbon – Actually 18 years, 7 months old. Not much of a nose here, and for a 17-year-old whiskey the palate is on the mild side. If I didn’t know better I’d swear this was a younger spirit, and while the flavor — caramel, vanilla, a touch of chocolate — is there, it lacks the austerity that this whiskey usually brings to the table. 90 proof. B+

George T. Stagg Bourbon – Nobody doesn’t like George Stagg, and this burly monster is again ultra-hot — 142.6 proof — and redolent of deeply charred wood and coffee beans. Bruising and tough, it unfortunately lacks the nuance that prior years of Stagg have brought to the table. The 2011 edition I’m frankly finding tough to crack. The soothing finishing sweetness that usually comes with a solid Stagg release just doesn’t happen here. This makes Drinkhacker sad. 18 years old. B

William Larue Weller Bourbon – Smells innocuous, but as with many a Weller of yore, the palate of this wheated Bourbon burns with intense cinnamon notes — almost like red hots candy. Again the finish doesn’t gel the way I’d like, more bitter than bittersweet, and incompletely satisfying. Weller’s never been my favorite of this collection. 133.5 proof, 13 years old. B

Thomas H. Handy Sazerac Rye – Curious: The palate is immediately redolent of not grain or wood notes but licorice, making this an oddball installment in the lineup. Fortunately you’ll also find lots of sweet caramel and spicy rye notes here, giving it a lot of flavor. With plenty of heft at 128.8 proof, it doesn’t pull punches, but it’s perhaps a bit too young to really compete with the big boys. (That said, this year perhaps Handy’s youth — 6 years old — is its greatest asset.) B+

about $70 each / greatbourbon.com

2011 buffalo trace Antique Collection family shot Review: Buffalo Trace Antique Collection 2011 Edition

Review: Henry McKenna Single Barrel Bourbon

henry mckenna bourbon Review: Henry McKenna Single Barrel BourbonHenry McKenna is a value-priced Bourbon from Heaven Hill with serious street cred: Single barrel and bottled in bond (100 proof), it’s aged 10 years and sold to retailers, who pick out their own barrels and sell them direct. This is common with many distilleries, but not at these prices.

This McKenna is the 9th barrel from Oakland’s Ledger’s Liquor (Barrel 662 from the distillery). It’s a big winner: Scorching hot and dense with spicy rye character, demanding a healthy splash of water to coax out its charms. When you do, they are abundant: Caramel and vanilla in harmony with classic rye charms, with a finish that offers both a cinnamon punch and a soothing sweetness to take you out. It begs for repeat sips and, should you polish off the bottle, well, another one is barely 20 bucks away.

Remember: As with any single barrel spirit, bottles may vary widely.

A- / $24 / heaven-hill.com

Review: Redemption Rye and High-Rye Bourbon

Distilled in Indiana and bottled in Bardstown, Kentucky, Redemption is part of a growing cadre of craft distillers who go guerrilla on getting their stuff produced (a la Angel’s Envy), releasing amazingly high-quality product at very affordable prices. At Redemption, the focus is obviously on increasingly popular rye.

Redemption Rye – 95% rye, youch! This is an unconventional and very odd-tasting rye, shockingly sweet and filled with Christmas spice character. Minty, almost menthol on the nose. The body is lighter than I’d like and the finish is on the strange side — reminiscent of a younger corn-based whiskey. Perhaps it’s just too young? (Less than 4 years old, per the age statement on the back.) Probably better as a mixer. 92 proof. Aka tan label. Batch 027, bottle 915 reviewed. B / $40 [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS]

Redemption High-Rye Bourbon – I’d estimate most Bourbons are in the 10% rye region. Redemption’s is 38.2% rye, 1.8% malted barley, and 60% corn. (Bourbon by law must be 51% corn, so that is indeed a lot of rye.) Though it’s conceivable younger (aged “over 2 years,” per the age statement) it’s a darker spirit and a more successful, better-balanced whiskey. Great flavors of caramel and vanilla are complemented by rich spiciness — all those sweet holiday notes are mellowed out with a big, silky, lightly tannic body. A much greater success for straight-up tippling. 92 proof. Aka red label. Batch 010, bottle 3340 reviewed. A- / $27

redemptionrye.com


Review: Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch Bourbon 2011 Edition

This year, the “small” batch gets bigger than ever: Four Roses is batching four of its 10 Bourbon recipes into the 2011 Limited Edition Small Batch release.

This year, the annual Limited Edition Small Batch is built out of 13-year OBSK, 13-year OESQ, 12-year OESV, and 11-year OESK. (If none of that means anything to you, read this.) That’s a pretty corn-heavy blend this year (the E is Four Roses’ less rye-centric mashbill, comprising three of the four Bourbons here), and it shows in the finished product.

The nose is hot and fiery: Add water to bring out more of the 2011′s nuance. There you’ll find a distinct cherry character on the nose along with cocoa notes. On the tongue, this cherry aroma comes across more like a cherry wood, with more of a lumberyard character to it. Compared to the 2010 Limited Edition Small Batch and 2009 Mariage (the precursor to Limited Edition Small Batch, renamed because people couldn’t pronounce it, by the way), this is a spicier, more savory batching. The chocolate cherry is distinct and lasting, with a bitter edge that lends a lightly tannic tone to the whiskey.

I’m not sure this is the best expression of Four Roses — perhaps it is overreaching in complexity and coming up just a bit short. Ultimately I think both the 2009 and 2010, and the “non-limited” Small Batch offering, are better expressions.

111.2 proof sample (actual bottling proof may vary). 3,500 bottles produced.

UPDATE: Trying this again in August 2012, I’m finding this whiskey to be mellowed out a bit, with less of that tannic edge (and more enjoyability).

B+ / $90 / fourroses.us

four roses limited edition small batch 2011 Review: Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch Bourbon 2011 Edition

Review: Col. E.H. Taylor Single Barrel Bourbon

Earlier this year our friends at Buffalo Trace released the first in a line of new whiskeys named for pioneering Bourbon-man E.H. Taylor. A second spirit is now ready to join that line: Colonel E.H. Taylor Single Barrel Bourbon.

Aged 11 years 7 months, this is a nicely matured whiskey with plenty of wood going on throughout the spirit. On the nose and on the tongue, it’s a whiskey for the man that respects wood, and a fine Bourbon, of course.

On the palate, alongside that wood, Taylor Single Barrel proves to be a complicated beast. A huge body conceals within orange peel, lots of nuts, charcoal and smoke, and a finish that at least pays homage to traditional Bourbon sweetness. Savory and thick, it’s a bit of a bruiser, so full of flavor that you don’t notice the heat until the finish starts to fade, and it punches you in the stomach.

Altogether another great Bourbon in the Taylor lineup, though perhaps not quite the masterpiece that Sour Mash is proving itself to be.

100 proof.

A- / $60 / buffalotrace.com

EH Taylor Single Barrel Bourbon Review: Col. E.H. Taylor Single Barrel Bourbon

Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Two

I won’t try to explain it again: If you missed the explanation of Buffalo Trace’s Single Oak Project the first time, you can catch up on this ambitious program spanning 192 single barrel Bourbons here. In round one, Buffalo Trace offered a dozen unique single barrel recipes for customers to consider. Now it’s back with its second collection, 12 more bottles of varying construct — and, surprisingly, I found I liked this round, on the whole, better than the first.

Each whiskey is 90 proof again — and you can visit singleoakproject.com to offer up your own thoughts and compare notes with your compatriots.

For this round, all whiskies were stored in the same type of warehouse (concrete), their barrels were from the top half of the tree, seasoning was the same (12), and entry proof was identical (105 proof). What varied: rye vs. wheat recipe, wood grain size on the barrel (tight/average/coarse), barrel char (#3 vs. #4), and tree harvest location (two different sites: A and B, though I don’t have specifics on how the sites varied).

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #29 – Big, “old Bourbon” character. Good balance of wood and spice notes, and a touch of citrus on the finish. A- (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete ricks, #3 char, top half of tree, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #31 – Slightly more tannin here, but the finish is a bit sweeter, too. Less nuance, but really easy-drinking. For sure it’s another winner. A- (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, top half of tree, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #61 – Harder edged, with more citrus character — maybe a touch of orange peel. Tougher on the finish, but still a credible Bourbon. B (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete ricks, #3 char, top half of tree, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #63 – Big and spicy, and frontier style whiskey at heart. Vanilla is the dominant character, which rounds out the finish. B+ (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, top half of tree, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #93 – Hard and tough, spicy and herbal, with a rocky finish. The finale is lasting and grows more and more tannic as it goes on. Out of balance. B- (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete ricks, #3 char, top half of tree, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #95 – Similarly burly to #93, but slightly softer. Unlike its kid sister, it eases up on the finish, leaving you with sweetness instead of throat-choking tannin — amazing what a slightly longer char can do. B+ (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, top half of tree, harvest location A)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #125 – Another huge whiskey, and one a bit lacking in secondary character. Although I know it’s got the same age on it as the rest, it feels young and a little undercooked. B (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete ricks, #3 char, top half of tree, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #127 - Unsurprising, a straightforward Bourbon with a straightforward caramel character. Short finish. B (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, top half of tree, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #157 – Not much to it, just a moderate whiskey with a medium body, mild finish. Caramel and wood notes, but mild. B (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete ricks, #3 char, top half of tree, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #159 – Finally, a Bourbon that gets me going. Savory and sweet working together, with caramel and vanilla very strong, but balanced by a modest woodiness. Just about everything I want in a glass from a young whiskey. A (rye, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, top half of tree, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #189 – Spicier, with fun caramel apple, banana, and character. I like this a lot. The finish makes me think of a nut-infused banana split. A (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete ricks, #3 char, top half of tree, harvest location B)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #191 – Very similar to 189, maybe a touch harder on the finish. Lovely, though. A- (wheat, 105 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete ricks, #4 char, top half of tree, harvest location B)

$46 each (375ml bottle) / singleoakproject.com

Recipe: Knob Creek Sour Ginger

In honor of Bourbon Heritage Month (you’re soaking in it, by the way), our pals at Knob Creek sent us this enticing recipe, courtesy of chef Mike Isabella. Sounds like a fun one!

Knob Creek Sour Ginger

2 parts Fresh Squeezed Ruby Grapefruit Juice
1¼ parts Knob Creek Bourbon
¾ part Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur
½ part Lemon Juice
Garnish: Lime Wedge, stuffed with Candied Ginger

Combine all ingredients in a Boston shaker. Add Ice and shake. Strain over ice in a rocks glass. Squeeze the lime wedge to disperse the candied ginger into the drink.

Knob Creek Sour Ginger Cocktail 2 525x787 Recipe: Knob Creek Sour Ginger