Category Archives: Bourbon

Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Four

Once more into the breach? We’re a quarter of the way into the Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project, with the fourth round of 12 Bourbons released this month, bringing the total to 48 out of 192.

Need previous coverage or a baseline of what this experimental series is all about? Find it here:
Round One (including all the basics of the approach to this series)
Round Two
Round Three

We won’t waste time this quarter going into the basics. This round focuses on the differences between two warehouses at Buffalo Trace, one with wood floors (Warehouse K), and one with concrete (Warehouse L). You’ll find both rye and wheat whiskeys here, plus the usual variety of wood grain in barrels, but otherwise the details are the same: 125 entry proof, #3 char, level 12 seasoning, and bottom half of tree used for the barrels. As usual, all Bourbons are bottled at 90 proof.

My results: I found the Warehouse K whiskeys to be better than their otherwise identical Warehouse L counterparts 4 out of 6 times. I gave them tie grades once and scored the Warehouse L whiskey higher once (and I think the Warehouse K whiskey on that comparison was simply off). Wood ricks are of course traditional in Bourbon country, and maybe this is why: They seem to produce better booze.

That said, on the whole, I found this round to be very worthwhile — in fact, taken as a group, it’s probably the best set of releases to date. Not sure if it’s me, but there’s a lot of sweetness in this batch… for the most a good thing.

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #10 – Interesting texture, almost like dissolved sugar. Great body and good balance, with flavors of apricots, tangerines, aged wood, and a long vanilla cream finale. Smooth, silky finish. One of the best from this series to date. A (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #14 – More syrupy, and more wood influence. Bit of raisin in the body, giving this a touch more interest. Not a bad whiskey at all. B+ (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #42 – A bigger whiskey than the previous, more sweet, and a bit of burn. Cedar box and evergreen notes. A solid Bourbon, especially for the sweet tooths (sweet teeth?) out there. A- (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #46 – Heavy wood influence, a bit overcooked. The finish redeems with a powerful cinnamon character. Plenty of vanilla here, too. Solid, woody Bourbon. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #74 – Pure vanilla and caramel, a lovely Kentucky approximation of creme brulee. The wood makes an appearance at the end, which somewhat mars the fun. Still like it. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #78 – Lots of wood here, but that fades with time in the glass. Beneath that there’s some sugar. Caramel character, to be specific. That sweetness grows as the finish rumbles on. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #106 – Nice orange character, which grows stronger as the finish builds. A sizeable wood influence in here, too, but the balance is not as full-formed as with other Bourbons in this collection. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #110 – Smooth caramel in a glass, with some unusual herbal notes on the finish, plus some dark chocolate character. Quite a departure from the other whiskeys in this collection, particularly its sibling, #106 — and really quite enjoyable with its complexity. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #138 – Evergreen notes on the nose lead to a somewhat traditional and sweet whiskey. The finish is a touch sour compared to the others in this round, but on the whole it’s another solid Bourbon. B+ (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #142 – Perhaps the first miss in this collection. Not much happening on the nose, and on the tongue it fades quickly. Over-wooded, with the flavor sucked out a bit. B- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #170 – Pure nougat on the nose and the palate, but a touch on the alcoholic side, leaving a hot finish lacking in most of the other whiskeys here. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #174 – A touch of menthol, some cherry notes, then a lingering, lasting sweetness. Great balance. Lovely Bourbon. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

$46 each (375ml bottle) / singleoakproject.com

Review: Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon

Like Maker’s Mark before it, Woodford Reserve has been known for producing one whiskey and — it’s annual, limited edition, special release whiskeys notwithstanding — one whiskey only.

Then Maker’s launched Maker’s 46, leaving Woodford the only solo shop.

Now Woodford is joining the club with Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon.

It’s a complicated process, but let’s explain, in Woodford’s own words: “The first Woodford Reserve barrel is crafted from oak that has seasoned out of doors for nine months and this is completely toasted and charred on the inside – like no other whiskey barrel in the world. The second barrel has been toasted for more than twice as long as the first fill barrel and is then very lightly charred – again unique amongst all the world’s whiskey barrels.  The secret to the Double Oaked character is in the second barrel. A custom crafted barrel with a heavier toast allows flavors of honey, cream, vanilla to be magnified and a light char gives elegant sweet aromatic notes.”

Side by side with the original Woodford, Double Oaked offers a whiskey that sticks close to the distillery’s classic style. Lots of cinnamon and raisin on the nose, with vanilla, light chocolate, and smoothed-over wood notes on the finish. Compared to the original, it is surprisingly not heavier on the wood character but rather smoother and more mellow, particularly on the finish. Woodford original has always been a touch on the tough, wood-heavy side, and here Woodford manages to dial it back. The unorthodox production method and ironic name choice notwithstanding, the choices are sound. While Double Oaked lacks some of that intense vanilla character on the finish that original Woodford has, it makes up for it with more nuance and a smoother ride.

I am hard pressed to pick a favorite, but ultimately I think Double Oaked is a slight improvement over an already fine whiskey. Both, by the way, are 90.4 proof.

A- / $50 / woodfordreserve.com

woodford reserve double oaked bourbon Review: Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon

Review: John B. Stetson Bourbon

Don’t let the New Jersey office location of Vision Wine & Spirits, the owner of this new whiskey, give you a scare. It’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon, through and through.

Crafted using both rye and wheat in the mashbill (in addition to corn and barley, of course), the whiskey is double distilled in traditional copper pot stills and aged for four years in oak (though no age statement is officially offered). Bottling proof is slightly elevated at 84 proof.

The results are just as dandy as one of Stetson’s namesake hats. On the nose: Some corn, and a bit of vaporous heat. Underneath, sugar, orange peel,and  cherries. There’s also some Irish whiskey-like banana character in the mid-palate, with a corn chip kicker on the finish. Stetson comes across as young Bourbon, but one with a bit of pedigree. Both the rye and wheat character come through, which is quite a delight. It isn’t brash or rough, just still a little wet around the ears. On the whole, it’s enjoyable, but it hasn’t quite come into its own just yet. I’d love to try this at 5 1/2 or 6 years old.

84 proof.

B+ / $27 / stetson-spirits.com

john b. stetson bourbon Review: John B. Stetson Bourbon

Review: Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. Warehouse C Tornado Surviving Bourbon

On April 2, 2006, a storm ripped through Kentucky, tearing apart two of Buffalo Trace’s warehouses. One was empty. One, Warehouse C, was full of 24,000 barrels of then-young, far-from-release E.H. Taylor Bourbon.

Warehouse C damage 2006 small 300x204 Review: Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. Warehouse C Tornado Surviving BourbonThe walls and roof were ripped open, but the whiskey survived. But this did expose the barrels inside to the elements (see photo at right), which stayed there for months while repairs were made.

In 2011, the whiskey from the top two rows of this warehouse was bottled as a special release with an unusual name: Warehouse C Tornado Surviving Bourbon. The whiskey inside is a rye-heavy mash. The barrels were aged between 9 years, 8 months and 11 years, 11 months. The Bourbon was bottled in bond at 100 proof.

(If this idea sounds familiar, see also Glenfiddich’s Snow Phoenix bottling.)

Sadly, I’ve no original Taylor to compare this release to, but it’s a powerful whiskey in its own right: Fragrant from the moment it’s poured with deep citrus and pure, spicy rye character. The body is full, the color deep amber. The palate is amazingly enjoyable for a Bourbon this old and roughly-treated. Plenty of citrus atop a creme brulee body, the rye less powerful here than on the nose. Superb balance. The finish is warm (as you’d expect from a 100 proof whiskey), but easier than you’d think. Lovely wood tones and flamed orange peel round it out. Probably the best Taylor of the three bottlings released so far.

A / $70 / buffalotrace.com

EHTaylor Whs C Tornado Surviving Bottle and Canister Low Res Review: Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. Warehouse C Tornado Surviving Bourbon

 

Review: Buffalo Trace Oat Bourbon Whiskey and Rice Bourbon Whiskey

God bless Buffalo Trace. Some of the most interesting and intriguing whiskeys in the world are coming out of this massive outfit, many of which are branded, appropriately, with “Experimental Collection” on the label.

These two oddball whiskeys are BT’s last Experimental Bourbons from 2011, and they arrived at Drinkhacker HQ with quite a bit of baggage, considering my colleague John Hansell wrote about them last month with the headline, “Don’t buy this whiskey!” Including the exclamation point.

Both of these whiskeys are 9 years old, aged alongside each other in a high floor, created using traditional recipes and techniques — with one twist. While the primary starch in the mashbill of both is corn, and both feature barley as well, instead of rye or wheat they both turn instead to an odd additional grain as a kicker: respectively, oats or — wow — rice.

Both are 90 proof. Here’s how they stack up.

Buffalo Trace Oat Bourbon Whiskey is a burly, amber monster. The nose is enticing, all toffee and caramel, wood and charcoal. Sipping reveals something a bit different. Foremost: Alcoholic burn, the kind of heat you get from a really young Bourbon. Hansell is right about that: This has a hard edge to it that’s impossible to push past, and while I hesitate to point the finger at the oats (I’ve found High West’s oat-based white whiskey quite the delight), there is something a bit too tough in this. Balance? Not here. There are hefty green vegetables in the body, so much so that I think my mother must be proud that I’m drinking this. That finish is long, lasting, and a bit on the foreboding side. Peppery, full of coconut husks and burnt toast. And yet… it’s not entirely unpleasant, in the way that Islay whisky or really old Pappy Van Winkle can be. I can see all the nuts that suck down George T. Stagg gulping this stuff down by the gallon… if gallons of it existed. B

Buffalo Trace Rice Bourbon Whiskey is lighter on the nose, and more easygoing than the Oat Whisky. At the same time, it shares some DNA in that heavy burn of a finish, one which is redolent of, bluntly, too much time in wood. The body proper is one of orange marmalade, hot coals, a bit of vanilla, and grain husks. There’s certainly nothing “rice like” in the mix, but, as with the Oat rendition, it’s a whiskey that merely cries out for something. B

each $46 per 375ml bottle / buffalotrace.com

 

 

 

 

Review: Jim Beam Red Stag Honey Tea and Red Stag Spiced with Cinnamon

Red Stag — black cherry flavored Bourbon whiskey — was a bit pioneering on its own. And while it isn’t the only flavored whiskey we’ve encountered, now try this on: Two new versions of Red Stag (which is still based on a standard, four-year-old Bourbon), one with honey and tea flavors, one with cinnamon. I can’t be sure, but I believe this is the first flavored flavored whiskey to hit the market. We got an early taste of both of the new varieties. Here’s what we thought.

UPDATE: John, in the comments below, is correct. “Red Stag” is a new brand name, not an indicator of black cherry. So, no, there shouldn’t be black cherry notes in these. My bad.

Red Stag Honey Tea shouldn’t really surprise anyone — honey and tea are the two biggest flavors in the whiskey world right now. Now putting them together and adding them to whiskey that’s already black cherry flavored isn’t something I would have thought of. Sure enough, this is a convoluted spirit with a lot going on. The honey comes through the strongest, surprising me, and beating back the tea character handily. It’s a whole lot to deal with, but not entirely unpleasant. Basically, you should consider this to be Beam’s entry into the honey-flavored Bourbon category (everyone else in Kentucky has one) and less an expansion of the Red Stag line. B+

Red Stag Spiced with Cinnamon – Again, fairly self-explanatory? The cinnamon notes are strongest here, offering a light, Hot Tamales character to this spirit, punching aside just about everything else. There are some fruit notes in the nose, oddly enough, which is where the cinnamon barely comes through at all. Again, think of this one as cinnamon first, whiskey second. Not at all bad. B+

Both are 80 proof and arrive on shelves early this year.

each $18 / jimbeam.com

Red Stag Honey Tea and Spiced with Cinnamon Review: Jim Beam Red Stag Honey Tea and Red Stag Spiced with Cinnamon

Red State Bourbon vs. Blue State Bourbon: Which Will You Choose?

As political season heats up, our friends at Heaven Hill have a question for you: Are you a Blue State or a Red State kind of guy?

The idea is pretty genius: Two Bourbons, one called Blue State and one called Red State, complete with appropriate donkey/elephant imagery. Can the political leanings of the country be determined based on where they spend their whiskey money? You can even vote for your favorite on the whiskey’s website.

I sampled the product and, as Heaven Hill promised, it’s “basic bourbon… just for fun, really.” 80 proof and quite traditional in every way. The wood notes are strong, but the caramel and vanilla flavors have a moderate pronunciation, too. Big, raw wood character returns on the finish. It’s young stuff — alcoholic fumes are quite prevalent — but give it some air and it’s easily drinkable without a mixer or water. That said, I expect the vast majority of either of these whiskeys will go down with Coke, 7-Up, or ginger ale. In other words, don’t go looking for a lot of complexity in this Bourbon: Just an easy-to-swallow, relatively harmless concoction that’s designed to get you tipsy — just like your typical political candidate! I’d give it a B if you pushed me.

So which Bourbon is better? Alas, dear reader, while the packaging is wildly different, inside they are exactly the same. A better statement about politics I can’t imagine. Hats off to you, Heaven Hill.

about $15 each / redbluebourbon.com

Review: Big Bottom Whiskey Port Cask Finish 3 Years Old

I liked Big Bottom’s 2 Year Old Port Cask Finished Whiskey so much I named it my top American whiskey of the year. What could be better then than Big Bottom Port Finished Whiskey, one year older?

With this second batch of whiskey, the Bourbon is older (3 years, one day) before it went into the Port casks, and it spends longer in the finishing barrels (4-5 months instead of 3-4 months). The barrels were also turned over more quickly: This time the finishing barrels spent only 30 days idle and empty; with batch one they were empty for about four months before the whiskey went in.

Those are the mechanical differences, what about the taste? I sadly don’t have any of the first batch of whiskey left, so comparisons are tough. But versus my notes and the similarly made Angel’s Envy, this is a whiskey where the wood is clearer in its influence, muting somewhat the Port character.

That said, the whiskey is spry and racy, spicy confection that balances sweet with lots of peppery spice, cinnamon, cloves, raisins, and with wood running through all of it. Great balance, but quite a different spirit. I like it almost as much as the original, which is evidenced by the fact that by the time I got to writing this review, my sample bottle was already empty.

91 proof.

A / $30 / bigbottomwhiskey.com

3 Year Port Cask Bottle Image Review: Big Bottom Whiskey Port Cask Finish 3 Years Old

Review: Rebel Yell Bourbon

Will Rebel Yell have you crying “More, more, more?”

Admittedly the name does not instill the confidence of high quality. Like Fighting Cock, perhaps, it connotes a rough and tumble Old West style. I poured a glass and prepared to be burned in more ways than one.

I was surprised to find that Rebel Yell is far more innocuous than its vocal name might imply. First off, it’s a wheated Bourbon, which invariably lends itself to more softness. While age isn’t disclosed, the whiskey does feel a bit young, and there’s a certain kick and brashness to be found in the raw grain character. But it’s not altogether rough, just a bit pungent.

Stepping back, Rebel Yell has largely classic wheated Bourbon characteristics: Vanilla, a lively undercurrent of cinnamon, and wood notes. That graininess lingers on the finish, but it isn’t unpleasant. For all its rough-and-tumble aspirations, Rebel Yell ultimately comes together as one of the lighter and simpler whiskeys I’ve tried in recent memory.

80 proof.

B+ / $13 / rebelyellwhiskey.com

rebel yell whiskey Review: Rebel Yell Bourbon

Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Three

We’re now 36 whiskeys into the 192 to be produced as part of Buffalo Trace’s Single Oak Project. Check out our coverage of Round One and Round Two to catch up if you’re unsure what this series of very limited-release Bourbons is all about.

How does this round measure up? This time, all of the whiskeys were aged in concrete warehouses, in #4 char barrels with 6 months of seasoning (or air drying), and in barrels made from the bottom half of the tree. What differs this round: The rye vs. wheat mashbill, the entry proof (how hot the whiskey is when it goes into the barrel — either 105 or 125 proof), and the tightness of the wood grain). It’s the first time in the project that entry proof has been altered during a testing round.

Away we go with the testing! All were tasted blind, and the provenance information is added afterward. All Bourbons are again 90 proof.

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #8 – A really solid entry, heavier on the spicy character than most of the round. Good balance, with more of a sugar-forward character than the otherwise similar barrel #167. A close second place to that barrel. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, tight wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #24 – Hot, tastes like an overproof Bourbon. Not getting much character out of this, just some light grain characteristics. It’s like the wood just didn’t give up its essence in the service of this whiskey. C+ (rye, 105 entry proof, tight wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #40 – Good all-around balance here: Sweet nougat character plus spicy notes, but the finish veers toward the spice. The body’s a touch on the thin side. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, tight wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #56 – An odd finish mars this Bourbon. Terribly ard to place, it tastes a bit like coconut, banana, and rubber. Intriguing due to its tropical uniqueness, it comes across like a “world whiskey” instead of Bourbon — and something wholly unlike any of the other whiskeys in this collection… for better or for worse. B (wheat, 105 entry proof, tight wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #72 – Caramel apples here, bit of bite on the finish, but otherwise relatively unremarkable. B (rye, 125 entry proof, average wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #88 – Sweet and traditional, but with a hard edge to it, a kind of bitter finish that mars a promising start. B- (rye, 105 entry proof, average wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #104 – Smooth, quite sweet. Lots of caramel on this one, with a distinct vanilla kick. One for the sweet tooths, but not a lot of nuance. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, average wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #120 – Distinct mint notes are prominent in this one, another “big” and moderately woody whiskey that carries with it a surprisingly sweet finish. B+ (wheat, 105 entry proof, average wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #136 – The mild nose is misleading: The whiskey beneath the surface is racy and literally overflowing with spiciness and a lush, wood kick. Fans of big rye whiskeys are going to enjoy this one, but traditionalists may find it too overpowering. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, coarse wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #152 – A smooth operator. Classic vanilla/caramel body, very mild. A touch of menthol in the finish, but it’s fleeting, a bit like an Andes mint after a creme caramel dessert. A- (rye, 105 entry proof, coarse wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #167 – Great balance here, love the intense caramel and vanilla notes and just a hint of cinnamon to give it depth. Incredibly rich, this is probably my favorite whiskey in this batch. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, coarse wood grain)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #184 – Heavy apple character here, moderate wood influence. The balance is imperfect, though, with a somewhat hard edge to the finish. B (wheat, 105 entry proof, coarse wood grain)

What did we learn this time around? In no round did a lower-entry-proof whiskey outscore the higher-entry-proof whiskey, which is not surprising. Water simply doesn’t age as well as alcohol in wood: When you drink a whiskey with a lower entry proof you’re really drinking more wood-flavored water than actual Bourbon. Once again there were good ryes and good wheated whiskeys — and the wood grain didn’t seem to be a major factor in this batch.

For the record, Buffalo Trace says that the favorite barrels (based on ratings on the website) from the first 24 released are numbers 61 and 127, both wheated Bourbons with wood from the top half of their respective trees (and both from round two). Neither of those were standouts in my earlier reviews.

$46 each (375ml bottle) / singleoakproject.com

Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project  Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Three