Category Archives: Tequila

Review: Distinguido Tequila

Tequila Distinguido (“distinguished”) is a relatively new tequila brand (stop me if you’ve heard that one before), now available largely in Texas and Illinois. As it rolls out further, we had the opportunity to sample the three traditional expressions. All are 100% agave, of course.

Distinguido Silver Tequila – One of the more lemon/lime-focused tequilas I’ve experienced. Needs time to open up in the glass, otherwise its citrus notes are overpowering. Given this time, Distinguido’s blanco proves sophisticated and intriguing, with caramel, chocolate, and lingering lemon/lime character in the body, all laced with a moderate amount of agave character. Blancos rarely have this much nuance in them, but Distinguido is impressively complex. A- / $45

Distinguido Reposado Tequila – Aged at least two months and up to six months in old Bourbon barrels. Very pale yellow color. Similar in character to the Silver, really, but with the caramel notes a bit more pronounced. Feels a bit hotter, really, and ultimately I think the blanco has a little more balance to it. Still quite good, though. B+ / $50

Distinguido Anejo Tequila – Aged from one to three years in old Bourbon barrels, but still surprisingly light in color. Again, the caramel notes are deeper, and here they provide more sweetness, dessert-like notes that are tinged with green agave character. Not terribly different from the Reposado, but slightly better and, if forced to choose between them, I’d go Anejo given the modest price increase. A- / $55

tequiladistinguido.com

distinguido tequila anejo Review: Distinguido Tequila

Drinkhacker’s 2010 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for Christmas

Another holiday season is upon us here at Drinkhacker HQ, and again we take the opportunity to look back at the best — and most gift-worthy — spirits the year had to offer. Don’t settle for giving your boss a bottle of Crown Royal again (not that we don’t like Crown Royal). Step lively and go long. Here are some gift-giving  ideas based on 2010′s brightest stars.

Also check out our 2009 and 2008 holiday guide.

Bourbon – George T. Stagg Antique Collection 2010 Edition ($65) – Always a favorite with bourbon fanatics, the incredibly alcohol-heavy Stagg is as good this year as its ever been. If you can’t find it (which is likely), we also highly recommend the new releases of Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve ($40), Old Forester Birthday Bourbon 2010 ($50), and Four Roses 2010 Single Barrel Bourbon ($75 or so).

bruichladdich cuvee E 16 years old dyquem1 259x300 Drinkhacker’s 2010 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for ChristmasScotch – Bruichladdich 16 Years Old First Growth Series: Cuvee E Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes Finish ($105) – Failing a windfall that lets you nab a bottle of the new Highland Park 1968 ($4,000), this whisky is one of the best crowd-pleasers we tried all year. For more of a splurge — and an even more impressive statement, the bargain-priced (for its age) Glenfarclas 40 Year Old ($400) is outstanding.

GinBerkshire Mountain Distillers Greylock Gin ($30) – More of a hard-sell, but now you can prove to your dad that Americans can make gin just as good as the Brits. The unique Citadelle ($35) is always a hit, too, and this year’s version is wonderful.

Vodka – Rokk – 13 bucks a bottle, and just as good as anything else out there… though maybe not for a gift for anyone over 25 years old. Instead, Vision ($25) may be somewhat more impressive. Hangar One Kaffir Lime ($35) isn’t new, but it’s one of the best flavored vodkas on the market and will be cherished.

Rum – DonQ Gran Anejo ($70) – Rebranded and bottled in upscale style, it looks like a fancier gift than it is. Pampero Aniversario Ron Anejo ($34), though not new on the market, is equally decadent and a bit of a bargain. Also check out Botran Reserva ($24) or Dos Maderas rums ($32-$43) if you can find them.

camus borderies xo cognac 243x300 Drinkhacker’s 2010 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for ChristmasBrandy – Camus XO Borderies ($140)- A single-estate cognac that tastes far richer than its price would indicate. Brand new on the U.S. market, so your giftee will probably never have had it. Of course, if you can afford Emperor’s Giorgio G ($535)…

TequilaTequila Avion Anejo ($55)- It’s been an amazing year for tequila, and while we loved Peligroso Reposado ($50), Espolon Reposado ($25), Riazul Blanco ($45), Arta Silver ($45), and Dulce Vida Anejo ($55), we have to give the edge to Avion’s amazing anejo for our top pick.

Liqueur – Voyant Chai Cream Liqueur ($22) – In a world of iced tea-flavored vodkas, how about something a little more exotic? An authentic tasting chai tea liqueur that inspires India… or at least an Indian restaurant. Also unique and gift-worthy: Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur ($35).

Need another custom gift idea? Drop me a line or leave a comment here and I’ll offer my best advice!

Review: Peligroso Tequila Reposado

This new tequila brand has arrived with no fanfare, but damn if it doesn’t deserve some.

Peligroso (Spanish for “dangerous”) is a Highlands tequila, 100% blue agave, aged in old whiskey barrels and bottle at an unusual 84 proof (hence the “42″ on the label). The results, at least with this reposado (the only expression reviewed here) are astounding.

Smooth vanilla and caramel notes dominate, though the color is a light gold. Agave bite hits you a couple of seconds in and stretches long into the finish, but it’s balanced, not harsh. Secondary notes include some light citrus character, chocolate, and black pepper. It all comes together with a lush, juicy, and silky body that is a shockingly easy sipper.

Based on this reposado, I’m already salivating over what the anejo must be like.

A / $50 / peligrosotequila.com

peligroso tequila Review: Peligroso Tequila Reposado

Review: 100 Anos Tequila

“Wow, this tequila is 100 years old?”

At least three visitors to Drinkhacker HQ have made this joke(?) upon seeing these bottles of 100 Anos tequila sitting in wait of a review. And the response is, well, no.

100 Anos is a new brand in the Sauza line — 100% agave tequila that’s very reasonably priced. Intended as competitors to Cuervo Tradicional and Espolon, both expressions can be found for less than $20 a bottle. Both are 80 proof.

Note that a non-100% agave version of 100 Anos is said to be available as well. If you’re buying, look for bottles that are clearly labeled with the “100% Agave” notice.

100 Anos Blanco Tequila – Crystal clear tequila, but particularly hard-edged. Let it open up in the glass for a bit and some of the bite mellows out, giving way to some light lemon notes but lots of agave and a big, charcoal-infused finish. Better than a mixto, but far from fantastic. B- / $19

100 Anos Reposado Tequila – No information on length of aging is provided, but the color is dark — caramel color added, I suspect. Hot. Some actual caramel flavor notes add character atop the body of the blanco, but it’s just not done in a balanced way. Compared to other reposados, this is simplistic and lacking nuance, and still too hard in the finish for easy drinking neat. C+ / $19

no website


Review: Aha Toro Tequila

This Highlands tequila brand — a sister of the much-admired Amigo bf4e — is 100% agave, 80 proof, and comes in strikingly eye-catching bottles. We sampled all three expressions of this heftily agave-infused tequila. Opinions follow.

Aha Toro Blanco Tequila – Peppery and herbal, with huge agave notes and a finish that hints at petrol. A real tequila, with no punches pulled. Touches of fruit in the finish — bananas with cream — but not much can stand up to that agave enormity. Maybe too much of it here. B+ / $35

Aha Toro Reposado Tequila – Aged somewhere between two months and a year, this reposado cuts the bit of the blanco a bit, but not as much as you’d think. Top notes are more muted, with caramel and vanilla at play on this much more buttery-bodied tequila, and these sweet characteristics are heavy on the initial rush on the palate, as well. But you can’t suppress Aha Toro’s spicy agave notes, which come back in force for the finish. Better balance here. A- / $40

Aha Toro Anejo Tequila – Aged over a year. The anejo has a lot in common with the reposado, just with the caramel notes amped up. Less bite here, it’s a sweet and silky tequila sugar bomb with some hints of cocoa. Heat is there on the finish, a bit like a Mexican hot chocolate. Good, but a bit removed from the tequila world, it’s so overwhelmed with sweetness. B+ / $50

ahatoro.com

Review: Amigo bf4e Tequila Reposado

You’re not crazy. Someone really did put “best friends forever” in the name of their tequila.

That someone is Amigo, and the best friends in question are this bottle of tequila and you.

But let’s put the name aside and see where we get. 100% agave, with no chemical additives, Amigo bf4e comes only in a reposado expression, aged two months in oak and bottled at 80 proof.

On first rush, it’s a hot tequila, but give it a little time in the glass. Soon you’ll find it opens up pretty nicely, exhibiting buttery and sweet vanilla notes along with a nicely balanced agave character on the palate. The finish doesn’t go for bite, but instead goes back to the sweet, with caramelized sugar, flan, and a little burnt orange. A tiny touch of bitterness in the denouement, but that doesn’t ruin a quite impressive experience.

For this price, this is an amazing tequila. I’d love to see what Amigo could do with an anejo. In limited distribution on the west coast.

A- / $30 / drinkamigo.com

Amigo bf4e tequila reposado Review: Amigo bf4e Tequila Reposado

Review: Cazadores Reposado Tequila

A common tequila where 100% agave quality is desired but money is tight, Cazadores is a solid choice among budget tequilas, though it’s hardly anything out of the ordinary.

Cazadores Reposado is a pungent tequila, with intense agave notes. The two months of aging (in new oak barrels) give it a just a light color, and it does add a touch of caramel to give the tequila more balance. But on the whole this is a fairly prototypical reposado, brilliantly agave in tone with strong herbal notes but, it must be said, lots of bite and a rough finish.

Worth a shot for that pitcher of margaritas.

B / $27 / cazadores.com

cazadores tequila Reposado Review: Cazadores Reposado Tequila

Review: Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila

Don’t go a-hunting for Olmeca Altos tomorrow. Until now this tequila has only been available outside of the U.S. — and in Europe, the Middle East, and Africa, it’s a pretty popular brand. Try hard and you’ll be able to find it stateside — and cheap, too — but the search just might undo you.

A 100% agave tequila from Los Altos in the Jalisco highlands, Olmeca Altos uses a bit of an odd production process. I’ll let the company explain:

Olmeca Altos’ unrivalled brand uniqueness is further represented by its Tahona production process. Tahona, a 500-year-old process exclusive to the Olmeca brand, uses a giant volcanic millstone to crush the cooked Agave pinas and expose the juice and fibre from the plant. A part of the Tahona Liquid produced during this process is then added to Olmeca Altos’ fermentation and distillation process to enhance the sweet, citric taste and aroma.

So there you go.

You do indeed get that strong citrus taste — here more grapefruit than orange or lemon — and agave takes a bit of a back seat. The body is moderate. The finish has a fair amount of bite to it. It’s a bit of a departure from a standard blanco — almost a margarita in a bottle, it’s so fruity — but that makes Olmeca Altos perfectly suited as a mixer in any number of cocktails. I’m less enamored with it on its own, but for a mere $20 a bottle, my complaints are muted to be sure.

80 proof.

B+ / $20 / olmecatequila.com

Olmeca Plata tequila Review: Olmeca Altos Plata Tequila

Tasting Report: The Tasting Panel Double Gold Winners 2010

Of all the events I attend, The Tasting Panel Magazine’s get-together of its Double Gold Medal winners is the only one that mixes wine with spirits. Nowhere else do I expect to sample a Turkish rose next to peaty Scotch. Somehow it works, and while the selections here were all over the map, some standouts were to be had, including rich Pinot from Jazz Cellars and Sequana, a surprisingly good Pisco (the first time I’ve ever used that phrase) from Pisco “O,” and light, easygoing cachaca from Germana. Notes based on a brief tasting session follow.

Wine

2009 Jules Taylor Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough / $15 / B+ / mild, good for the money

2007 Lynmar Chardonnay Russian River Valley / $30 / B/ huge oak

2009 Kavaklidere Egeo Roze Aegean Turkey / $19 / B+ / tart, curious

2007 De Tierra Pinot Noir Silacci Vineyard Monterey / $32 / B / skunky

2008 Cru-Monterey Pinot Noir Appellation Series Santa Maria Valley / $35 / B- / too herbal, off

2008 Wrath Pinot Noir Quasi Mulla Monterey / $38 / B- / funky notes

2008 Sequana Pinot Noir Sarmento Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands / $32 / B

2008 Sequana Pinot Noir Dutton Ranch Green Valley / $40 / A-/ solid pinot, authentic

2009 Jazz Cellars Pinot Noir Lone Oak Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands / $45 / A-/ rich and intense

2006 Paradise View Malbec Sonoma Coast / $32 / A- / surprisingly good for Cal malbec, big herbal finish

2007 Cameron Hughes Cabernet Sauvignon Lot 172 Atlas Peak / $22 / B / hugely tannic

2007 Halter Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles / $28 / B-

2007 Millarium Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley / $75 / A-/ rich, has aging potential

2007 Valley of the Moon Cabernet Bland, Cuvee de la Luna Sonoma County / $30 / B

2007 St Helena Road Winery-Maier Family Meritage Sonoma / $34 / B

2007 Niner Wine Estates Fog Catcher Paso Robles / $58 / B+ / rich blackberry notes

2006 J. Lohr Cuvee Pau, Paso Robles / $50 / B- / overdone

NV Gonzalez Byass Oloroso Sherry Solera 1847 Superior Selection / $18 / B+

Spirits

Rokk Vodka, Sweden / $NA / B+ / traditional, light sweetness

Pisco “O” Torontel, Ica, Peru / A- / $35 / intense lemon notes, a surprise

2009 Germana SOUL Cachaca, Brazil / A- / $29 / light and easy

Germana Tradicional Cachaca, Brazil / B+ / $34 / bolder, lightly aged

2009 Germana Heritage Cachaca, Brazil / B / $79 / even more aged, but unbalanced

Tequila Blu Reposado, Mexico / B / $38 / a tough rough

Tequila Cinco Blancos Anejo, Mexico / B- / $23 / rough attack, harsh

El Zacatecano Anejo Mescal, Mexico / B+ / $NA / almost no smoke – this is mescal?

Rum Vizcaya VXOP Solera Rum, Dominican Republic / B+ / $38 / overwhelming sweetness

Isle of Jura Single Malt Scotch, Prophecy, Scotland / B+ / $70 / massive peat bomb, big iodine notes

Pere Magloire Calvados VSOP, France / B- / $40 / tough and rough

Pere Magloire Calvados XO, France / B+ / $75 / huge apple character (as one would hope)

Comandon Cognac XO, France / B+ / $145 / tasty, but needs better balance, off finish

Review: Tequila Espolon

This tequila brand, from the Jalisco Highlands, has been absent from the U.S. market after several years of exile. Now repackaged in squat bottles with wild, “Dance of the Dead”-inspired imagery depicting Mexican history on the labels, these 100% agave tequilas are being offered in both blanco and reposado expressions. The company also lays claim to a longer agave roasting process and a longer distilling time than other tequila makers. Both are 80 proof.

Here are some thoughts on both expressions.

Espolon Blanco Tequila is hefty with agave character, peppery but with a smooth, silky body. The finish brings up more pepper and heat than I’d like. Little hints of vanilla in the body make this more complex than you’d expect at a price level like this. Not quite a knockout, but definitely worth a try. A- / $25

Espolon Reposado Tequila is aged six months, quite a bit of time amongst modern reposados which spend half that time in barrels if they’re lucky. Definitely a kissing cousin of the blanco, this expression is smoothed out, and has the agave knocked down a few pegs, letting vanilla and some caramel notes come to the surface. Nice, easy finish. An incredible bargain — it’s actually the same price as the blanco. A winner.  A / $25

tequilaespolon.com

tequila espolon Review: Tequila Espolon

Review: Patron Silver Tequila

For many, Patron is the gold standard of premium tequila. And indeed, Patron has done for the tequila market what Grey Goose did for vodka. Whether you like them or not, they have convinced the world that there were people out there who would pay for expensive versions of what many had previously assumed only came in two versions: Cheap and cheaper.

As a pioneer in mass market premium tequilas, Patron took the approach of using 100% agave, crafting a fancy bottle with a little ribbon around the neck and a real cork for a stopper, and charging a premium price for it all. It has worked: Patron is now one of the best-selling tequila brands in the world, and it’s expensive.

And yet, when you get down to it, Patron is honestly nothing special. The tequila offers a big, and somewhat nutty and woody nose (though the spirit is not rested in wood like some blancos), with pronounced agave notes. The woody character continues on the palate, but it’s overshadowed by a pretty heavy bite and burn, suggesting that Patron is a tequila for those that grew up on rotgut tequilas and have graduated, but still wouldn’t know what to do if they didn’t have to gasp for air after doing a shot (and let’s be real, no one sips Patron). The texture is full-bodied, but somewhat oily.

All said, this is not a bad tequila, but there are many better blancos out there, and at better prices that it’s silly to recommend it unless there’s absolutely nothing better on the shelf. 80 proof.

B / $38 / patrontequila.com

patron silver tequila Review: Patron Silver Tequila

Review: Cordina Mar-Go-Rita Wine Cocktail

cordina mar go rita Review: Cordina Mar Go Rita Wine CocktailThe mercury has topped 90 in San Francisco today, and in a city with no air conditioning, that means retreating to whatever means necessary one can dig up to stay cool.

Cordina’s goofily-named Mar-Go-Rita has been in my freezer for weeks, so what better time than now to bust it out.

What is it? Imagine a kid’s metallic Capri Sun packet, with an oversized hole for the straw. But don’t refrigerate: Freeze it. The insides turn slushy, not unlike the stuff that comes out of one of those machines behind the bar at your favorite tourist trap. You drink it right out of the pouch, or squeeze it into a glass if you’re feelin’ fancy.

What exactly is a “wine cocktail?” The base of the Mar-Go-Rita isn’t tequila but “agave wine,” which is fermented, not distilled, to 48 proof instead of 80 proof. Cordina doesn’t say what the rest of the cocktail is, except that it has no artificial flavors or colors, but the resulting juice is 8% alcohol (16 proof).

The final product: Not bad, actually. It does indeed taste a lot like a chain-restaurant slushy drink, overly sweet-and-soured, tart, but with a distinct tequila-like bite to it. Fine for a blazing hot day, but hardly a classic margarita you’d make at home.

If nothing else, it’s way better than this stuff, which has basically the same idea.

B / $3.39 per 375ml pouch / bigeasyblends.com

Review: Riazul Tequila

This new line of tequilas comes from the Jalisco Highlands — said to be harvested from land held by a single family for more than 200 years — and is imported into and distributed from Houston, Texas. All three expressions are of course 100 percent agave and 80 proof.

Riazul Silver Tequila – This blanco has a very fresh and bright character, slightly sweet, with a silky texture and bright, unadultered agave. Very curious on the finish, Riazul’s Silver brings forward a distinct mocha coffee flavor, one that lingers and invites further exploration. A / $45

Riazul Reposado Tequila – Though aged a long 9 months in both American and French oak, Riazul’s Reposado is surprisingly light in color. The flavor is not unlike the blanco, but the agave is smoother, with more caramel and bigger chocolate notes. That said, this tequila feels somewhat out of balance compared to the blanco, which is all too common with reposados. B+ / $55

Riazul Anejo Tequila – My immediate reaction: This tequila is bizarre. Aged two years, I was expecting rich wood, chocolate, and coffee notes. Instead, Riazul’s anejo offers a baffling attack of lime fruit, then a long caramel body. Highly rated, I found this the least balanced of all the tequilas on offer, a near-crazy mix of citrus and candy sweetness that — separated — might both be great. Together it’s all over the map. Unique, to a fault, but perhaps Riazul needs to ria-think its wood strategy. B / $60

riazul.com [BUY THEM NOW FROM CASKERS]

Review: Tequila Avion

This new brand hails from New York, where a former Seagram exec decided to strike out on his own in the brave new world of tequila. As the story goes, founder Ken Austin scoured Jalisco for the best spirit that hadn’t made it to the U.S., and found it on the highest agave plantation in the area, where the agave was being slow-roasted at low temperatures in order to keep a mellow, sweet character in the resulting spirit.

The result is Avion, bottled from this mysterious source (and even ready in reposado and anejo versions) and ready for sale in the U.S.

I tasted all three varieties during an Avion visit to San Francisco recently and have sampled the Silver on its own later — only reconfirming my thoughts about this solid, top-shelf product.

All are 100% agave and 80 proof.

Tequila Avion Silver – Sweeter than the blanco you’re probably used to, with a buttery body and fruity notes of pineapple and lemon. Herbs and some agave kick in for the finish, which is smooth and without almost any bite at all. Gorgeous. A / $45

Tequila Avion Reposado – Aged 6 months, quite long for a reposado, which gives it impressive caramel and vanilla notes, which play well with the agave in the body. It’s surprisingly light in color for a spirit with a flavor this rich, while also disarming in its complexity. A / $50

Tequila Avion Anejo – A masterpiece. Aged two years, giving it huge vanilla and cinnamon character, with notes of nougat, chocolate, and fresh cookies. Maple syrup lines the finish, but all the way it is nothing but smoothness. A beautiful, old tequila that can stand up to the big boys’ anejos — and extra anejos. Also an absurd bargain considering the quality. A+ / $55

tequilaavion.com

tequila avion Review: Tequila Avion

Review: El Jimador “New Mix” Tequila Cocktails

“New Mix” is not a slogan stuck on the can of El Jimador’s ready-to-drink tequila cocktails. It’s the actual name of the product: New Mix.

Hugely popular in Mexico, New Mix now comes in five flavors. We’ve had the first three flavors sitting in the fridge literally for months, and finally we are getting around to cracking them open to see what all the fuss is about. (We’re still not sure.)

Each is 5 percent alcohol and is made with actual tequila. The drinks are lightly carbonated.

Thoughts in each follow.

El Jimador New Mix Margarita looks like a lemon-lime soda, and frankly tastes like it too. The fizzy concoction is solid soft drink up front, then you get that tequila bite in the finish. There’s not much of it, but it’s noticeable. That said, this tastes almost nothing like a margarita (with none of the flavor of triple sec that it claims to have), but a lot more like a Seven-and-Tequila, but I guess that wouldn’t look as good on the label. C

El Jimador New Mix Paloma – A paloma is traditionally a grapefruit juice and tequila cocktail, and this rendition does at least smell like grapefruit when you crack open the can. The flavor is a little funkier than that, though — less grapefruit and more of a canned fruit salad. Less tequila bite than the margarita New Mix, which in this case is not a great thing. C-

El Jimador New Mix Spicy Mango Margarita – It’s not an orange crush in that can, it’s a spicy mango margarita! El Jimador radically overreaches here, pulling off something that is more reminiscent of Red Bull than anything that bears resemblance to spice, mango, or margarita. No idea where this one came from or why it exists. D

eljimador.com


Review: Ilegal Mezcal

Puritans, be advised: Two Ls or three, Ilegal Mezcal is certainly legal, although the rustic labels and wax-sealed cork stoppers may make you think otherwise.

This small batch mezcal from the Oaxaca region of Mexico is hand numbered and produced in very small lots (typically under 2,000 bottles per lot). All 100 percent agave, of course, and all three are 80 proof. All three bottles reviewed below are part of lot #1.

Ilegal Mezcal Joven – Far less smoky than most mezcals, this is a smooth and velvety mezcal that could easily pass for a slightly brash tequila. Zesty with huge agave character up front, then a tangy lemon and citrus finish. The body is moderate and a touch hot, but it’s refined and easygoing. If you like your mezcal on the smoky side, I expect this won’t strike your fancy. Most of you will love the hell out of it. A- / $60

Ilegal Mezcal Reposado – After 4 to 5 months in new oak, Ilegal takes on a whole new character, buttery in the body and showing more smoke, with a butterscotch, creme brulee-like tone to it. Actually too sweet by quite a bit, I appreciate the attempt to balance savory smoke with sweet candy, but it comes off as a bit wild and unbalanced. B+ / $80

Ilegal Mezcal Anejo (pictured) – Spends a full year in oak, and the characteristics of the Reposado are amped up even further. More smoke, and more sweetness. Almost bacon-like with the blend of sweet and savory. This has a bit more balance but its richness is almost too decadent. A very powerful and unique mezcal, and pricy. B+ / $120

ilegalmezcal.com [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS!]

ilegal mezcal Review: Ilegal Mezcal

Tequila: It’s What’s For Dinner?

Try this experiment: Next time you have a fine meal in front of you, open up a bottle of tequila and see how well it goes with dinner.

I had the chance to do this, courtesy of an event put on at San Francisco’s Jardiniere restaurant, thrown by Partida Tequila and Folio Fine Wine Partners, which is run by winemaker Michael Mondavi.

The idea: Pair a wonderful dinner with both Mondavi’s best wines and the full lineup of Partida, and let diners decide what they want to drink with each course.

It’s a curious experiment, and one which garnered considerable discussion — plus a lengthy post about the event from San Francisco restaurant critic Michael Bauer.

Check out Bauer’s missive and you’ll see him enthusing about the idea of pairing tequila with your meal: Sweetbreads and anejo Partida are “made in heaven,” in his book. Bauer even says the wines were upstaged by the tequila’s “novelty.”

Perhaps that part about the novelty factor is true, but for my money, the wines unilaterally made a better pairing with every dish, with the exception of dessert: Bauer is right on there, noting that the Partida Elegante (a smooth extra anejo tequila) was a perfect match with traditional Mexican desserts that included flan and a mini churro with Mexican hot chocolate. Mondavi’s Moscato was a distant second in that race.

But with dinner, I found myself turning time and time again to the Isabel Mondavi Chardonnay with a scallop appetizer and both Cabernets poured — Emblem and M by Michael Mondavi — with the hearty pork main dish. Tequila just wasn’t a fit with the savory stuff, and, more to the point, it was just far too strong, overpowering the delicate nature of the food. There’s also the simple issue of the function of a beverage: Having something to help “wash down” your food. A nice gulp of wine is fine — perfect, even — to help that pork belly go down. Try the same thing with tequila and you’ll kill yourself.

Either way it’s still an interesting experiment to try on your own. Set up a rich meal with a bottle of wine and a quality reposado tequila (probably the most versatile of the tequila expressions when it comes to food pairings), and see where things go. Some, like Bauer, may find themselves drifting toward Mexico’s finest. But I suspect most will end the night with empty wine glasses while the tequila goes largely ignored.

Folio Wine Event 2 Tequila: Its Whats For Dinner?

Review: Azuñia Tequila Platinum Blanco

This new tequila hails from fields near the town of Amatitan in Jalisco. Available in all three traditional expressions, we sampled Azuñia Platinum Blanco. 100 percent blue agave of course, this tequila is twice distilled and unaged, then bottled at 80 proof.

The nose is full of agave, a blast of herbal character that leaves no mistake about what you’re drinking. The body is big, again relying on agave but also infused with a huge minty menthol character. Traditional, on the whole. A little rough around the edges, it’s got a lasting finish that unfortunately turns a little bitter.

Not a bad mixing tequila but a little crazily priced for what it delivers.

B / $46 / azuniatequila.com

azunia platinum blanco tequila Review: Azuñia Tequila Platinum Blanco

Review: Camarena Tequila

This tequila is just arriving in the U.S., but the family behind it (Familia Camarena, natch) claims six generations of tequila-making experience. Farmed in the Los Altos Highlands region of Jalisco, this 100% agave spirit arrives in two varieties to start (sorry, no anejo), both big bargains.

Both 80 proof.

Camarena Silver is intensely peppery on the nose, with hints of petrol and mint. The body is smoother than the nose hints at, with black pepper, agave, and a bit of lemon citrus. The finish is unfortunately a little watery, alas, which limits its utility as a sipper and largely positions it for margarita makings. B- / $20

Camarena Reposado is rested for two months in both new and used oak barrels, giving it a far different character than the Silver, despite an extremely pale yellow color that would indicate otherwise. (It’s perhaps the lightest color reposado I’ve ever seen.) It’s got more bite in the body, but it is successfully mellowed by vanilla and some sweetness, then the agave vegetal character kicks in and lingers on the finish. Not at all watery like the Silver, it has more complexity and is worth experiencing on its own. B+ / $20

tequilacamarena.com

camarena tequila Review: Camarena Tequila

Review: Karma Tequila Silver

This new Highland tequila is made with no additives, a blend of double- and triple-distilled spirit and mixed with well water from the estate on which the agave is grown.

Available only in blanco/silver form for now (reposado and anejo are aging now), Karma has a mild nose and a medium body. The initial rush is quite sweet, with caramel notes normally found in aged tequilas, and mild agave character. The finish lacks almost any burn at all, but turns back toward its agave roots with a long, somewhat vegetal finale. Worthwhile.

80 proof.

A- / $40 / karmatequila.com

karma tequila silver Review: Karma Tequila Silver