Category Archives: Rated B+

Review: Scotch Malt Whisky Society November 2012 Outturn

Another five-whisky month from the SMWS. Thoughts follow on each spirit in the outturn — easily the best month in recent memory for the SMWS.

SMWS Cask 16.32 – 10 year old Glenturret from the Highlands – Lightly smoky Highlands whisky finished in (refill) Port pipes? I never would have thought of the combination, but it works well here. The nose comes across as more sherry-like than Port, orange peel is heavy but it offers dark chocolate character, too. Some salty, briny notes on the palate quickly lead into lots of dried fruit — plus a big baking rack full of clove and cinnamon, pancakes with syrup, and Mexican coffee on the finish… the Port showing its face a bit in the end. Amazing depth and balance — much more than I would have thought possible from a 10 year old malt and surprisingly easy-drinking even at full cask strength. This is one whisky that brings everything together in a remarkable way, offering more and more with each sip. Wish I had more. Distilled 2001, 114.2 proof, 120 bottles allocated for U.S. A / $95

SMWS Cask 25.63 – 21 year old Rosebank from the Lowlands – Ultra-pale… who’d have thought this was 21 years old? It’s hard to follow 16.32, but this one does: Bright apple on the nose, with lots of citrus (Meyer lemons?) to back it up. Sugar and spice on the palate, a big rush of marshmallows and nougat, with touches of fresh black pepper, incense, and cedar box notes. The long finish is warming and lush. It’s hot stuff at nearly 60% alcohol, but drinks like a dream. Distilled 1990, 119.6 proof, 108 bottles allocated for U.S. A / $145

SMWS Cask 106.18 – 27 year old Cardhu from Speyside – Yet another winner. Gorgeous nose just from opening the bottle. Creamy orangesicles, heather, and marshmallow aromas lead to more of the same on the tongue, with plenty of citrus, tropical fruits, and a touch of sandalwood. Hints of grain flicker on and off in the finish. This Cardhu is simpler than the previous two whiskys, but still definitively worthwhile. Feels hotter than the 105 proof would indicate. Water is recommended. Distilled 1984, 105.2 proof, 78 bottles allocated for U.S. A- / $175

SMWS Cask 128.3 – 5 year old Penderyn from Wales – Quiet on the nose, with little hint of the sugar and fruit rush beneath. Take a sip and an explosion of flavors erupt — like a fruit salad filled with cherries, apple, oranges, and banana. Some cereal notes follow, with more dessert characteristics — pie crust and light toffee notes — on the finish. Lots going on, and a bit muddied. A few more years in cask might have brought the balance into focus. It’s a bit of an eye-opener for now. Distilled 2006, 122.6 proof, 78 bottles allocated for U.S. B+ / $85

SMWS Cask 129.1 – 5 year old Kilchoman from Islay – How exciting to get the first privately-bottled Kilchoman to sample! Modest smokiness on the nose, with citrus hints. Similar on the body to most other Kilchomans I’ve experienced — modest smokiness, backed with ample sugar. Worth a look if you want to try Kilchoman but can’t find the distillery bottling. Distilled 2006, 120.4 proof, 114 bottles allocated for U.S. B+ / $85

smwsa.com

Review: 2009/2010 Zinfandels of Ravenswood

It’s been three years since we’ve sat down with Ravenswood and its surprisingly exhaustive lineup of Zinfandels. Best known for its sub-$10 Vintners Blend, the winery produces a wide range of Zins, including seven single-vineyard designates. We got our hands on two of the “Old Vine” wines from 2010 and four of the single vineyard wines from 2009 to see how things were shaping up for the winery. Thoughts follow. Continue reading “Review: 2009/2010 Zinfandels of Ravenswood” »

Review: 2008 Ladera Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon

Ladera Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 134x300 Review: 2008 Ladera Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet SauvignonThis 2008 Cab from Ladera is surprisingly restrained, particularly odd given its pedigree from Howell Mountain, where rugged, punchy, and flavor-filled wines are habitually made.

I’ve greatly enjoyed this bottling in both its 2007 and 2005 vintages, but for 2008, Ladera’s Howell Mountain Cab feels dialed back, almost like it’s pulling its punches a bit. The nose offers more green vegetable and herbal notes than I’d expect, with similar character on the body. Quite tart, the herbs come on strong, leaving behind a somewhat tough, surprisingly acidic finish. There’s plenty of fruit here, but at these prices, I’m looking for a near-perfect balance and stronger finish.

B+ / $75 / laderavineyards.com

Review: Tapatio Tequila Blanco

Tequila Tapatio 93x300 Review: Tapatio Tequila BlancoTequila Tapatio (no relation to the hot sauce) has a cult-like following in Mexico (and among frequent visitors to those parts), and now it’s coming north of the border. Made from 100% Highlands blue agave, this brand has been around for 75 years.

Imported by the Charbay family, it is (at least for now) only available in one-liter bottles. An anejo and reposado are available; we just got the blanco (aged 6 months in stainless steel; no oak). Here’s how it goes down.

Modest agave, and black pepper, on the nose. Hints of earthiness, but overall very mild.

The body is initially hot, but it settles down with some time in the glass. Nice balance on agave, lemon, sweetness, and chile powder. Touches of black pepper hit the back of the throat for the finish. Simple and easy to drink, it’d be a great mixer and works just fine on its own, too. Maybe I’m missing what all the fuss is about, though…

B+ / $43 per one-liter bottle / charbay.com [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS]

Review: “Art in the Age” Rhubarb Tea Liqueur

art in the age rhubarb tea 174x300 Review: Art in the Age Rhubarb Tea LiqueurArt in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction’s latest niche liqueur turns to the humblest of roots: The rhubarb.

Formerly known as “Rhuby,” AitA went with a more descriptive name for this product for reasons that must sound obvious but are in fact due to legal problems with the original name. (Current bottles actually have the new label pasted over the original one.)

Continue reading “Review: “Art in the Age” Rhubarb Tea Liqueur” »

Review: 2010 Chenin Blanc Wines of Clarksburg Wine Company

clarksburg chenin blanc 200x300 Review: 2010 Chenin Blanc Wines of Clarksburg Wine CompanyChenin Blanc is far from what anyone would consider a Big Wine in the U.S. right now, but that hasn’t kept the Clarksburg Wine Company from releasing not one, not two, but three takes on the grape, a standby of the Loire Valley in France. Based in the Old Sugar Mill in Clarksburg, near Sacramento, California, Clarksburg’s facility is home to lots of wineries and, apparently, lots of weddings.

Here’s how Clarksburg’s three Chenin Blancs stack up, whether you’re getting hitched or not.

Continue reading “Review: 2010 Chenin Blanc Wines of Clarksburg Wine Company” »

Review: Sparkle Donkey Tequila

Sparkle Donkey tequila 300x300 Review: Sparkle Donkey TequilaIt’s one of the most fanciful product names we’ve encountered in a while, but once of the most apt, too: Sparkle Donkey Tequila features an armor-clad donkey on its label. “El Burro Esparkalo.”

Brought to us by the makers of Bakon Vodka, Sparkle Donkey is a 100% agave tequila with a legit heritage — extra-long fermentation, volcanic water used for blending, and so on. Here’s how the two initial expressions stack up. Both are 80 proof. Continue reading “Review: Sparkle Donkey Tequila” »

Review: Charbay R5 Clear and Aged Hop-Flavored Whiskey

Whiskey is (basically) made from beer, so why not make it from really good beer?

For its long-awaited R5 whiskey, California’s Charbay (best known for its high-end flavored vodkas) took Bear Republic’s beloved Racer 5 IPA and put it through a still. This is not an inexpensive task: 10 gallons of beer distill down to 1 gallon of whiskey. Double-distilled in copper pot stills, the resulting whiskey is being released in two versions: “Clear,” an unaged version, and “Aged,” which spends 22 months in French oak barrels.

We got our hands on both varieties; both are bottled at 99 proof. Thoughts follow. Continue reading “Review: Charbay R5 Clear and Aged Hop-Flavored Whiskey” »

Review: Ransom Old Tom Gin

Ransom Spirits Old Tom Gin 189x300 Review: Ransom Old Tom GinA reader recently turned me on to Ransom’s Old Tom Gin, asking (nay, begging) for a review. I’m obliging.

Ransom Old Tom Gin is different than most gins. For starters, it’s yellow, not clear. That’s a characteristic of the rarely-seen Old Tom style, which was popular in the mid-1800s and faded into obscurity when the more juniper-focused London Dry Gin. It is traditionally sweetened, and it stands between genever and traditional gin on the spectrum of flavor and funkiness.

Continue reading “Review: Ransom Old Tom Gin” »

Review: Two Boutique Wines from Vintage Point

Vintage Point imports small production wines and sells them for cheap. Turns out they’re not doing a bad job of it. Here’s a look at two of the company’s new U.S. releases.

2011 Makara Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough – Distinct mango and pineapple notes, with a juicy, fruit-heavy body. Reasonably acidic, but could use a little more subtlety in the somewhat flabby finish. B / $13

2011 Mountain Door Malbec Mendoza – Lively, fruity, surprising for a Malbec. Food friendly, with plenty of herbs, black and red fruit, and a lively finish. A great value. B+ / $10

vintagepoint.com

Review: Wemyss Single Cask Single Malts, 2012 Releases

Wemyss (“weems”) Malts, based in Edinburgh, has become well known for its blended malt whiskys in a small number of years (it was founded in 2005). But Wemyss also releases a periodic series of single malt whiskys, all bottled from single casks, following a number of prior, limited-edition releases along these lines and in keeping with the fancifully-named whiskys of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society.

For 2012 Wemyss is putting out four new single malt single cask whiskys. Each of these is essentially a privately bottled whisky from another distillery (see details below). One important distinction: Each is bottled not at cask strength but at 92 proof. All were bottled in August 2011.

Wemyss Single Malt “A Day at the Coast” 14 Years Old – A Highland 14 year old hogshead from Clynelish Distillery. Tastes younger than you’d think, with lots of grain character left behind. Brisk orange and sherry notes, with a bit of a burnt caramel, seaweed, and bittersweet chocolate finish. Dusty, chewy, and salty all at once. 354 bottles made. B+ / $110

Wemyss Single Malt “A Matter of Smoke” 15 Years Old – An Islay 15 year old hogshead from Caol Ila Distillery. At least this one is fairly straightforward. Lots of smoky peat, but not overwhelming, with plenty of sweetness to back it up. There’s more of a biting medicinal character than I might like, an antiseptic feeling that lingers on the finish. That’s common with Islay, of course, but there’s also a tanginess here that is at once enjoyable and a bit disarming. 337 bottles made. B / $135

Wemyss Single Malt “Winter Larder” 20 Years Old – A Speyside 20 year old butt from Glen Elgin Distillery. Deep mahogany — distinctly different than the others in this series. Noses of cocoa powder and barbecued meat, the latter of which grows stronger as you take a sip. Notes of licorice, and a distinct, tarry petrol character come along later. More tannin, like “The Dunes” (see below). Tough to love. 654 bottles made. C / $130

Wemyss Single Malt “The Dunes” 29 Years Old – A Highland 29 year old hogshead from Inchgower Distillery. Surprisingly light in color for a whisky this old. Very sawdusty and sandy (perhaps that’s where “the dunes” comes from), the whisky starts off light but quickly turns toward meatier tones, like bacon fat and salted pork. The finish is tough and tannic. Not a fan. 202 bottles made. D+ / $185

wemyssmalts.com

BUY THEM HERE!

wemyss 2012 single malts Review: Wemyss Single Cask Single Malts, 2012 Releases

Review: Scotch Malt Whisky Society October 2012 Outturn

Five whiskys this month from the SMWS. Thoughts follow on each.

SMWS Cask 5.35 – 12 year old Auchentoshan from the Lowlands – Big orange flower and honey on the nose. Very light smokiness on the finish. Youthful and fresh, it shows off its grain base but in a modest and understated way. The sweeter body and light touches of hay and fresh bread give this an almost breakfasty feel. Fun stuff, but pricey for 12 year old Auchie. Distilled 1999, 109.4 proof, allocation n/a. B+ / $105

SMWS Cask 26.84 – 21 year old Clynelish from the Highlands – Burned out. Old wood and hospital notes, a whisky that’s been in barrel too long (or in a barrel that had faded too much). Things settle down with some air, but the finish is still rough, hot, and coal-filled. Distilled 1990, 98.2 proof, allocation n/a. C- / $145

SMWS Cask 33.113 – 8 year old Ardbeg from Islay – Less smoke on the nose than I was expecting, but rest assured, it comes along later in the game. Sharp and wintry, this malt offers mulled spices and a long finish that smolders like a dying fire. Amazingly restrained, but so warming (at cask strength you won’t miss the heat) that you are overwhelmed with flavor anyway. Great balance, and worthwhile if you’re into Ardbeg. Distilled 2003, 120.8 proof, allocation n/a. A- / $85

SMWS Cask 85.23 – 12 year old Glen Elgin from Speyside – Hot stuff from a refill sherry butt. The first blush is all Orange Julius, creamy citrus and a chewy sweet finish. Touches of pine needles on the nose, and classic Christmas cake character. On the mid-palate, some graininess evolves — indicative of this whisky’s youth — with a finish that builds with malt and burly wood characteristics. The balance is good, not great. Would have loved to experienced this whisky in 2018. Distilled 1999, 118.8 proof, allocation n/a. B+ / $105

SMWS Cask 93.47 – 9 year old Glen Scotia from Campbeltown – Sugar and peat come together in this coastal dram, a young and brash smoke bomb that could easily be confused with young Laphroaig thanks to that barbecue smoke finish. There’s a certain inflection here that’s almost minty — again, those juniper and pine needle characters come along, this time very late in the finish. A somewhat simple peated style, again the price is a concern. Distilled 2002, 119.4 proof, allocation n/a. B+ / $90

smwsa.com

october 2012 smws Review: Scotch Malt Whisky Society October 2012 Outturn

Bourbon Battle: Booker’s vs. Baker’s

Booker’s and Baker’s can often be found side by side on the back bar, and even seasoned Bourbon fans are apt to confuse them. This is understandable. Allow me to explain.

For starters, there’s the name thing. Baker’s. Booker’s. You might think one was attempting to mislead drinkers by tricking them with a sound-alike, but these are actually both products of the same company: Jim Beam.

Baker’s and Booker’s are two of the four Bourbons in Beam’s “Small Batch” series. The other two are Knob Creek and, continuing the confusing panoply of B’s, Basil Hayden’s. But at least Knob and Basil look immediately different on the shelf. Baker’s and Booker’s are both even bottled in Burgundy-style wine bottles and sealed with black wax. The only easy distinguishing factor is the label: Baker’s has a giant B, Booker’s has a handwritten-esque script on the label. Helpful if you’re looking at the bar. Not so much if you’re reading a menu.

Beam was kind enough to send both whiskeys for our evaluation and comparison. Here’s how these two are both alike and different.

bookers bourbon 102x300 Bourbon Battle: Bookers vs. BakersBooker’s Bourbon is touted as “the highest grade bourbon made by” master distiller Booker Noe at Jim Beam — hence the name “Booker’s.” Noe died in 2004, but his spirit clearly lives on. There’s also a monster statue of him on the Jim Beam grounds that you can check out if you go to visit. Batch age and proof of this uncut, barrel-strength whiskey will vary, but mine (C05-A-12), at 7 years, 5 months old and 128.5 proof, is typical of the brand.

The Bourbon is hot. Though the bottle tag suggests drinking it neat and uncut, this is folly. A healthy splash of water helps Booker’s show beyond the burn. Wood is the primary character here, hefty, chunky, and powerful like a lumberyard. It’s big on the nose and the body, and it takes a good amount of time sipping and savoring for this to fade. Eventually you dig out Booker’s finer nuances. Vanilla and dark chocolate — almost a Mexican chocolate with touches of cinnamon — which rise up on the finish as you finish your first glass. Some fruitiness here — plums, raisins — is in the mix as well. All in all a solid Bourbon, though a bit burly I think for my tastes. B+ / $57

bakers bourbon 100x300 Bourbon Battle: Bookers vs. BakersBaker’s Bourbon is stated at 7 years old and a considerably mellower 107 proof. The Baker in question is Baker Beam, a grandnephew of Jim Beam himself. The twist here involves a special yeast used in the fermentation process, proprietary to Baker’s.

Results: A considerably more mellow whiskey than Booker’s. Beam suggests Baker’s is a Bourbon for Cognac enthusiasts, and I think the distillery is onto something with that. There is lovely sweetness here, plenty of vanilla but also rich chocolate pudding, nutmeg, and fruitcake character. Really a gorgeous Bourbon and my hands-down favorite of the duo. A / $47

smallbatch.com

Review: Jack Daniel’s Unaged Tennessee Rye

How do you know when white whiskey has become a Big Thing? When Jack Daniel’s, the largest spirits brand in the world, gets into the game.

By way of backstory, Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 uses a fairly traditional Bourbon-style* mashbill, 80% corn, the other 20% rye and malted barley. This is the way it has been, and (undoubtedly) the way it shall always be.

But that doesn’t mean JD can’t make other products. Gentleman Jack is charcoal filtered twice instead of just once, like Old No. 7 is, for example. Not a big difference, but it’s something.

Now JD is working on its biggest line extension since Prohibition, with its first wholly new mashbill: an honest-to-god rye whiskey. Made of 70 percent rye, 18 percent corn, and 12 percent malted barley, it’s unlike anything JD has ever offered before.

It’s also not going to be ready for a few years.

JD is taking an interesting step in deciding not to wait until 2015 or so to release its new whiskey and is instead giving the unaged version a limited release. You’re reading this correctly: For its next trick, JD is releasing a white whiskey based on this future product. This is actually the first time I’ve ever heard of this being done, but it makes sense, a kind of sneak preview of a whiskey to come.

Looking at JD Unaged Rye as it stands today, you won’t find any massive surprises or departure from the current state of white whiskeys. Lots of grain on the nose, very raw, and typical of unaged whiskey no matter what the mashbill is. The body is surprisingly mild, and the funkiness of most white whiskeys is almost absent here. Instead, touches of chocolate (cocoa powder), coconut, and some tropical notes, particularly banana, dominate. The finish is smooth and light, almost harmless — that JD charcoal mellowing process really does strip out a lot of the more unpleasant flavors. The overall effect is interesting, but it’s honestly far from earth shattering.

The biggest problem with this is that Jack is suggesting a $50 price tag for this 80-proof spirit, which puts it at roughly three times the price of a bottle of JD that’s spent years in a barrel. That would also suggest that, once this rye comes out of barrel for its official, aged release, it should cost on the order of $75 or more. Both of those are crazy ideas, and I suspect that calmer heads will prevail such that Jack Daniel’s Rye (or whatever it’s called), when it’s finally released, won’t hit more than $25 or $30 at your local liquor store.

That aside, how can you get it? Per the company: Jack Daniel’s Unaged Rye is scheduled to be available in December at select retail outlets throughout Tennessee including the White Rabbit Bottle Shop at the Jack Daniel’s Visitor Center in Lynchburg, Tenn.  In January 2013, it will be available in limited quantities in other select markets throughout the U.S.

Update: Reader Matt Bradford says JD expects to sell the new whiskey beginning (around) December 15, 2012.

* I know, JD isn’t Bourbon.

B+ / $50 / jackdaniels.com

jack daniels unaged rye Review: Jack Daniels Unaged Tennessee Rye

Review: Sarapo Family Wines

sarapo wines Review: Sarapo Family WinesSarapo is the second label from Eric Kent, and these wines are not made with secondary fruit, but are rather produced with a bit of a twist. Small lots from other winemakers — which would be destined for bulk blending in central California — are “rescued” by Sarapo, blended, and sold at bargain prices. (Cameron Hughes does the same thing, on a much bigger scale.)

Continue reading “Review: Sarapo Family Wines” »

Review: Broken Shed Vodka

Broken Shed vodka 98x300 Review: Broken Shed VodkaAnother New Zealand vodka, Broken Shed is distilled four times from whey (whey? no way!) — also known as milk honey — and blended with local water.

It’s a fine, wholly credible vodka with few distinguishing characteristics. Nothing but light medicinal notes on the nose, it’s vaguely sweet on the palate. The finish heads back to lightly astringent, alcoholic tones, concluding with a moderate bit of burn.

Continue reading “Review: Broken Shed Vodka” »

Review: Limited Edition Beers of Magic Hat

Magic Hat is a new brewery to me, and the ungodly number of beer varieties it produces is challenging to get one’s head around. Packaged individually and in a number of variety packs, here’s a look at three of the newer offerings — all limited releases — from this South Burlington, Vermont operation. You can find all three of these, along with Magic Hat #9, in the company’s “Participation Variety Pak,” composed of brews selected based on a tally of votes from the company’s customers.

Magic Hat HI.P.A. -Traditionally styled India Pale Ale, with bracing bitterness, plenty of hops, and a slight underlying sweetness. Not at all heavy, despite the higher alcohol level. Nice fruitiness underneath: Citrus, with some orange peel and a touch of coriander. 6.7% abv. A-

Magic Hat Hex Ourtoberfest – A yummy, mild brown ale, caramel notes which open up with some orange notes in a wide-mouth glass. Maltiness is the key element here, lending a touch of sourness to the finish. Quite easy-drinking, though, at 5.4% abv. B+

Magic Hat Hocus Pocus – Not brewed since 2008. This lighter wheat beer was my least favorite of the bunch, but is still refreshing and enjoyable. Lemony with a malty body, it’s a hazy brew with plenty of mouthfeel behind it, but the very short, crisp finish is more reminiscent of simpler, summer beers. 4.5% abv. B+

magichat.net

Review: El Buho Mezcal

Made in Oaxaca, this mezcal is made from espadin agave plants and roasted with mesquite for a full week in a fire pit before being crushed (by a burro!) and pressed for the juice. The fermented mash is twice distilled in an alembic pot still before bottling, unaged.

The smoky nose reveals little about what’s underneath, but the first sip starts off with a surprisingly high amount of sweetness on the tongue. Very fruity, it offers mainly tropical notes — papaya and a bit of pineapple, backed with touches of lemon. The smoke returns for the finish, as is typical of mezcal, a bit sticky sweet, perhaps due to that mesquite coming through.

I like El Buho’s components a lot, but as is often the case with smoky spirits, the balance is a bit off here, with sugar and fire not quite coming together into the burnt/caramelized sugar character that you want to take away from the experience.

Nice as a starter mezcal.

86 proof.

B+ / $47 / elbuhomezcal.com [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS]

El Buho Mezcal Review: El Buho Mezcal

Review: Shellback Silver Rum and Spiced Rum

This new rum brand — named after a term used to describe a savvy sailor — is produced in Barbados, with its eyes set on the premium segment of the market. Both of these initial expressions are 80 proof.

Shellback Silver Rum – Aged 12 months in Bourbon barrels and filtered to white. Huge vanilla on the nose, with some petrol undertones. Very sweet — I called it “cotton candy” during my first encounter — with a long, sugary finish. It does echo back that edge of bitterness in the finish, but as the rum aerates it takes on a more complex cookie dough character — chocolate chips included. B+

Shellback Spiced Rum – Per the company, “Shellback Spiced has no added sugar and features a combination of all natural spices from around the world including: cinnamon bark oil from Sri Lanka and Ceylon; ginger oil from China and Africa; clove oil from Madagascar and India; nutmeg from Indonesia; cassia from Vietnam and China; vanilla from Madagascar and allspice from the Caribbean.” Rougher than I had hoped, with the spiciness coming across dry and dusty, like when you touch ground cinnamon directly to your tongue. This is clearly intentional — the absence of sugar is a badge of honor for Shellback in this spirit — but it doesn’t do the spirit any favors, finishing things off not with refreshing spiciness but rather a bit of astringency. B-

each $17 / shellbackrum.com

Shellback rum silver and spiced Review: Shellback Silver Rum and Spiced Rum

Review: The Wines of AC/DC

For those about to drink, we salute you.

AC/DC may be best known for its crowd-pleasing heavy metal riffs, but the aging rockers now have another claim to fame: Their own wine brand. Big in their Australian homeland, these wines are now coming to the U.S. Bottles are branded with an on-stage photo of the band and an appropriately rockin’ name: Back in Black Shiraz, Highway to Hell Cabernet Sauvignon, Thunderstruck Chardonnay, and Hells Bells Sauvignon Blanc.

We tasted two of the latest releases. Thoughts follow.

2011 AC/DC Hell’s Bells Sauvignon Blanc New Zealand – Strong grapefruit character up front, which fades as the wine warms up, revealing a rather simple, not overly-tropical New Zealand (not Australian) Sauvignon Blanc. Ultimately turns toward a mildly acidic, easy-sipping white. Hellish? Not hardly. B+

2011 AC/DC Back in Black Shiraz Australia - The fruit bomb you’re expecting, an overwhelmingly sweet base with sour cherry overtones. Pure, cheap, brash, Aussie Shiraz. I’d have called it “Big Balls” instead. D

each $18 / vinport.com