This latest vintage of Robert Craig’s mountain-born Cabernet is a bit tight today, with tannin still obscuring the fruit within. I’m not sure there’s going to be a lot of it to go around when it matures in another 3-4 years. Some blueberry, tea leaf, and rhubarb round out the plummy core. But it’s the distinct black pepper — especially heavy on the nose — that makes this wine particularly unique.
B+ / $80 / robertcraigwine.com
Not to be confused with Hanger One, Hangar 24 is a beermaking operation in Redlands, California, where it creates some 30 different brews. The company sent us 6 of its beers — in various size bottles — to check out. Thoughts follow.
Hangar 24 Amarillo Pale Ale- Straightforward American pale ale, hoppy but not overwhelmingly bitter, and sweeter than most pale ale styles. Some nuttiness on the nose leads to a modest orange character on the finish. In between: tasty hops. I’m not sure they drink anything like this anywhere near Amarillo (yes it’s named for the hops, not the town), but I’ll take it. 5.5% abv. A- / (12 oz.)
Continue reading “Tasting the Craft Brews of Hangar 24” »
Artesa operates an iconic winery in Carneros (photo at right), one which is well worth a visit if you’re in the area. Recently the winery released its slate of wines for 2012. Three of these, representing the primary varietals of the area, are reviewed below. Continue reading “Review: Wines of Artesa, 2012 Releases” »
Wemyss Malts produces a variety of whiskys in Edinburgh, and while it does make some single malts, it is probably best known for its blends.
Now the company has launched a line of new blends, three different expressions, each 12 years of age: The Hive, Spice King, and Peat Chimney. If some of that sounds familiar, you’re not crazy. Wemyss has an 8 year old version of Peat Chimney, which you can still find on the market. That said, finding any Wemyss whisky on the market is never very easy, so if the expression sounds interesting to you, snap it up regardless of its age.
Thoughts on the new 12 Year Old blends follow. All are 80 proof. Continue reading “Review: Wemyss The Hive, Spice King, and Peat Chimney 12 Years Old” »
Spirits nerds love a good yarn about how such and such booze came into being, and with Iconic Spirits, Mark Spivak has put plenty of the best into one easy-reading tome. Curious how moonshining and NASCAR are inextricably intertwined (hint: it’s got nothing to do with the people watching it), or how St. Germain found its market? Spivak, a wine writer and NPR commentator by trade, has a breezy story to tell you.
Some of the 12 chapters in the book are well-worn history – the origins of Jagermeister and Grey Goose; the rise of absinthe – while others are more pointed and thought-provoking. My favorite: How Cognac was completely on the ropes until it was rescued by the club crowd… and where an uneasy peace between luxury goods and thug life has been forged.
I didn’t think much of Spivak’s chapter on Scotch – which he admits that he doesn’t like, anyway – but I was equally flummoxed by the reasons why people would drink ultra-bitter Campari, too, and enjoyed Spivak’s discussion on how we’re born to avoid bitterness from birth. Cocktail recipes at the end of each chapter are fine, but not overly necessary.
Good times all around, and this book would definitely make a good gift for a spirits enthusiast this season. If only it had been more thoroughly fact checked. Even on a cursory read I found goofs — they don’t drink Scotch on Mad Men (they drink Canadian Club), and hip-hop was not “originally known as gangsta rap” – but perhaps this is more a sign of Spivak’s ignorance of pop culture (forgivable) than his lack of knowledge about spirits (considerably less so).
B+ / $12 / [BUY IT NOW]
One of Master of Malt’s completely hare-brained sub-brands, Professor Cornelius Ampleforth is the producer of a line of unusual spirits, including this ultra-oddity, an “absinthe” distilled to 182.4 proof.
Not a typo.
Made in the UK from English wheat and traditional absinthe botanicals (grand wormwood, anise, fennel, licorice) and a number of non-traditional ones drawn from the world of gin (coriander, lemon peel, orange peel), this spirit is distilled in a vacuum such that boiling point is at room temperature… and alcohol level is sky high. Continue reading “Review: Master of Malt Professor Cornelius Ampleforth’s Cold-Distilled Absinthe 91.2%” »
Interested in absinthe but don’t know where to start? With bottle prices that can top $100 a pop, it’s tough to justify the price for a bottle if you aren’t exactly sure what you’re getting in to.
Germany-based Absinthes.com attempts to correct that with its collection of miniatures — 50ml bottles of absinthe available for about $10 a bottle, well within “experimental” range. Continue reading “Looking for the Green Fairy with an Absinthes.com Sampler Pack” »
You have to appreciate a company that wants to do some good in the world, even while it’s getting people liquored up. FAIR (technically “FAIR.” with a period) bills itself as the first Fair Trade-certified spirits manufacturer. Based in France, the company offers a vodka and two liqueurs. We tasted them all. Thoughts follow.
Continue reading “Review: FAIR Vodka and Cafe and Goji Liqueurs” »
Think you know Four Vines Zinfandel? This isn’t that Four Vines. That Four Vines sold its name to Purple Wine Corp. The old Four Vines is now called Cypher. The new Four Vines, well, it’s making pretty good Zinfandel in the footsteps of the original owner of the name. Here’s how the new 2010 bottlings of its all-over-California wine production shakes out.
2010 Four Vines Zinfandel “The Sophisticate” Sonoma County - Some smokiness on the nose, plenty of juicy fruit on the palate. Some spicy notes in the palate, plus a touch of cedar box, raisin, and a touch of wood oil round out a food-friendly bottling. B+ / $23
2010 Four Vines Zinfandel “Maverick” Amador County – Very spicy, with a big, extracted fruit character. Not a complex wine, with a moderate to light body that’s packed to the gills with flavors of juicy raisins, pepper, and fresh garden herbs, alongside hefty acidity. B- / $18
2010 Four Vines Zinfandel “Biker” Paso Robles – Dense, chocolates and currants, incredibly rich. Amazing depth offers fruit that doesn’t quit — black cherry on the finish, plus brewed tea and cinnamon. Lots to enjoy in this one. A- / $23
With the holidays nigh upon us, celebrations will be in full force. Don’t forget the sticky stuff for dessert. Quady, which has been making its wines in Madera, California since 1975, offers a huge slate of dessert, fortified, and aromatic wines. We tasted a panel of six of its most popular offerings. Thoughts follow. (All prices are for 750ml bottles, except Deviation.)
Quady Vya Vermouth Aperitif Sweet – Made from Orange Muscat, Colombard, and Valdepenas grapes, and spiced with cinnamon, gentian, galangal, and nutmeg. Tawny, moderately brown color. Deeply herbal, like mulled wine for Christmas. Pleasant, with notes of brewed tea to counter the Christmas spices. 16% abv. B+ / $20 Continue reading “Tasting Report: Aromatic and Dessert Wines from Quady WInery” »
Huneeus Vintners manages a portfolio of wines from around the globe. Three of its South American Portfolio wines, all from Chile, were just released in new vintages. We tasted them all!
2008 Neyen Espiritu de Apalta Colchagua Valley – 80% Carmenere, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Inky deep maroon. Big plum character, with ample cinnamon, dark chocolate, and vanilla notes. Big body with a lasting, yet balanced, finish. Deep and rich, it stands up well to a big meal while also working enjoyably as a winter sipper. A / $50
2011 Ritual Pinot Noir Casablanca Valley - Ample fruit, with a bit of a thin body. Lots of jammy strawberry and cherry here. Easygoing, with a short, lightly vegetal finish. B- / $20
2010 Primus The Blend Colchagua Valley – A rich blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Syrah and Merlot. Quite compelling, it’s got plenty of fruit despite an ample density. Almost salty up front, the plums and cedar wood in the middle give it ample complexity and drinkability. B+ / $20
Independent bottler Gordon & MacPhail has added to its Private Collection with two new whiskys featuring exotic wood finishes, both ex-wine barrels from the Northern Rhone region. Details on each and tasting notes follow. Both are 90 proof.
Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Ledaig St. Joseph Wood Finish 19 Years Old – Distilled in 1993 at Ledaig (on the Isle of Mull), this malt is finished for 40 months in St. Joseph wine barrels. Bottled in 2012. Lots of nougat up front, with mild citrus, almond, leather, and cedar box notes following. No shortage of wood throughout, with a lively, slightly minty finish. I’m not sure the balance is just right, but this makes for a fun alternative to the usual sherry-finished whisky. 2200 bottles made. B+ / $95
Gordon & MacPhail Private Collection Balblair Crozes-Hermitage Wood Finish 21 Years Old – Distilled in 1991 at Balblair (Highlands), this malt is finished for 40 months in Crozes-Hermitage wine barrels. Bottled in 2012. This is a similar malt, but racier and with better balance. Big marshmallow notes up front, with a long, sweet body laden with baking spices. The finish hints at the wine barrels used in the finish, a distinct currant and vanilla mixture that comes across almost like candy. Touches of chocolate round out the finish. Really lovely and actually a bargain for a 21 year old whisky. 2000 bottles made. A / $150
Ho! Ho! Ho! Santa’s here, and he wants to give you whisky. As Christmas approaches, the SMWS is offering this year-end parcel, chock full of goodies. Thoughts follow.
SMWS Cask 27.97 – 13 year old Springbank from Campbeltown – Amazing color, amazing nose, amazing everything. It’s hard to go wrong with Springbank, this one bottled from a refill gorda. Lightly nutty/marzipan on the nose, then an explosion of flavors on the tongue. Creamy sherry notes, orange peel, and buttered toast on the palate. Long, long finish with a hint of smoke — but not overly hot despite an alcohol level over 57%. Do not pass up if you’re a Springbank fan. This outturn’s “President’s Choice.” Distilled 1998, 115.2 proof, 180 bottles allocated for U.S. A / $110
SMWS Cask 9.62 – 8 year old Glen Grant from Speyside – Young and a bit brash, but worthwhile. Classic Speyside, with big nougat character, some coconut and banana, fired with coal smoke. Touches of toffee on the finish, leading to a lingering and smoldering finale. Not overly complex, but a solid, young spirit. Distilled 2002, 124.2 proof, 149 bottles allocated for U.S. B+ / $85
SMWS Cask 42.10 – 7 year old Ledaig from the Highlands – Traditional Highlands malt, but very young, and very, very hot. Not really a thrill without water, which brings out notes of heather, orange, and fresh-cut grains, plus touches of cedar box, leather,tar, and light matchstick smoke. Nothing unexpected though. A fairly simple dram. Distilled 2005, 125.4 proof, 60 bottles allocated for U.S. A- / $175
SMWS Cask G2.2 – 35 year old grain whisky from Carsebridge in Clackmannanshire (Lowlands) – Carsebridge was shuttered in 1983 and torn down in 1992, making this some of the last stock from this distillery available. Unique and a bit strange, it’s all over the map. My notes run from sea brine to tar sands, cigar smoke and sour cherries. That probably doesn’t help you, I realize, but SMWS’s tasting notes are equally cryptic: school art-room, leather dancing pumps, and “newly crafted coffin.” Lots going on here, and certainly something you can talk about at length… but, typical of single grain whiskys, it’s pretty well off the beaten path for Scotch, for better or for worse. Distilled 1976, 107.2 proof, 60 bottles allocated for U.S. B+ / $250
SMWS Cask 29.104 – 20 year old Laphroaig from Islay – Dark color for Islay, but 20 years in cask will do that for you. Classic older Islay (bottled from a refill Sherry butt), with its peat finally mellowed out like a fire on its last legs. An easy sweetness draws instant comparisons to Laphroaig 18, loads of molasses impregnated with saltwater and seaweed. Some apple undertones, with slight touches of lemon. This doesn’t add a lot to the Laphroaig heritage, but it’s worthwhile if you find yourself wanting to put the 18- and 25-year-old distillery bottlings up against something slightly different. Distilled 1990, 116.4 proof, 120 bottles allocated for U.S. A- / $140
Oregon’s Van Duzer has been through upheaval of late. A new winemaker came aboard in June 2010, and the winemaking process was overhauled to focus on smaller sites, lower yields, and gentler handling of grapes. The first release from the new era is now upon us. Here’s how the 2010 Estate Pinot Noir shakes out.
Continue reading “Review: 2010 Van Duzer Pinot Noir Estate Willamette Valley” »
Thanksgiving on a budget? Six wines from Bolla arrived for our consideration for a spot on your Thanksgiving table, including one infamous classic. Thoughts (and a special video) follow. Continue reading “Italian Value Wines — Deep Value Wines — for Thanksgiving from Bolla” »
The Col. Taylor juggernaut continues rolling from Buffalo Trace. For this sixth expression, Taylor plays it comparably simple and unchallenging: a small batch bourbon, made from batching seven-year old barrels from the hallowed sixth floor of Buffalo Trace’s brick warehouse. Like the other Col. Taylor bottlings, it’s bottled in bond at 100 proof.
Heavy and almost hoary lumberyard notes fill the air when you pour a glass. Fortunately this fades after a time, leaving behind more citrus and light vanilla notes to mingle with the wood. Continue reading “Review: Col. E.H. Taylor Small Batch Bourbon” »
Crafted in Oaxaca from 100% agave espadin, this lightly overproof, unaged mezcal is a classic example of the spirit from head to toe.
The nose of Montelobos is intensely smoky, with a barbecue-like sweetness underpinning the char. On the tongue, it follows through on this promise. A rush of fresh barbecue smoke, followed by intense vegetation — not just agave but green beans, asparagus, and artichokes. Sounds nasty, sure, but it works, much like a plate of grilled vegetables on the campfire… with a sausage on the side.
The finish is mouth-filling and long, fire, brimstone, and deep savory notes. Solid mezcal start to finish, with an extra little kick due to a touch higher alcohol content.
86.4 proof.
B+ / $50 / montelobos.com
Hiro is a Japanese sake brand that comes in two varieties — “Red” (Junmai) and “Blue” (Junmai Ginjo). We tasted the Blue variety
Very fresh on the nose, Hiro Blue offers big cantaloupe character. Some lemon peel notes on the finish, and a mild green character follows. Overall a modest body. Some vegetal character on the finish mars an otherwise fine little sake.
B+ / $35 / hirosake.com
Lodi’s LangeTwins operates in Lodi, California, an area known primarily for its ultra-ripe Zinfandels. (It’s known as “The Zinfandel Capital of the World,” after all.) Oddly enough, we’re not looking at any Zin today. Here’s a couple of new(ish) vintages from these Lodi icons.
Continue reading “Review: Wines of LangeTwins” »
Pilsner Urquell is firing a new salvo in the battle for fresh beer. Light-struck, or “skunked” beer is a rampant problem for breweries, especially those overseas that need to ship product over a longer distance than domestic brewers. Pilsner Urquell is packaged in a distinctive green bottle, but, while attractive, it doesn’t do much to prevent ultraviolet and fluorescent light from penetrating it and reacting with the hops to cause those off-flavors and aromas. It’s not uncommon to hear consumers say that Pilsner Urquell and other beers in similar bottles, like Heineken and Grolsch, taste better in their native lands than what is offered on shelves in America, and light exposure is a big reason why.
But Pilsner Urquell has recognized this problem and is taking proactive steps to deliver a fresher beer to its fans. The brewery will be keeping the same green bottle, but redesigned its entire packaging to shield it from light and will use refrigerated trucks to cold-ship across the country. While expensive, the goal is to provide fresher beer that will attract a brand new segment of customers.
However, faithful drinkers of Pilsner Urquell can rest easy. Besides the new shipping and packaging, what is inside the bottle has not changed. It still pours the familiar shade of light straw, clear and clean, topped by a tall, billowing ivory head. The cap has decent retention, but the lacing is somewhat meager.
Grassy, floral, and somewhat spicy hops are apparent in the nose, as well as a strong malt grain smell. The hops are fresh and crisp and really do provide a sharp contrast to bottles shipped under the old method. The aroma is also ripe with pilsner malt that ties everything together.
The overall flavor, while not overly complex, is traditional. Not much has changed within the brand from its original recipe in 1842, but there isn’t much to fix when it’s not broken. It starts with a bready flavor reminiscent of biscuits that gives it a rich texture to build off of, while the hops follow to seal the deal. The biggest notes come from these fresher hops, especially an earthy grassiness, subtle lemon, and even a somewhat bracing spiciness.
Time-tested flavors and ingredients combine to make this an easy-drinking pilsner that is a joy to drink. Pilsner Urquell is going the extra mile to make sure their beer is delivered in a cool, dark environment, so if you are new to the brand or looking for redemption from an off-bottle, seek out the new, cold-shipped packaging.
B+ / pilsner-urquell.com / $9 per six-pack
