Category Archives: Rated B+

Review: 2009 Chamisal Vineyards Pinot Noirs

South of Paso Robles, north of Santa Maria, even further north of Santa Barbara, Edna Valley is a region near San Luis Obispo, where a handful of Pinot-focused wineries can be found. Here Chamisal, a smaller winery that’s part of the Crimson Wine Group (which owns Pine Ridge and Archery Summit, among others), produces a variety of wines, including the two Pinot Noirs we tasted here.

2009 Chamisal Vineyards Pinot Noir Edna Valley – A classic SoCal Pinot, this wine is at once simple and full of varietal character. Spiced-up cherry jam, a touch of leather and cedar box, this is a wine that’s got tons of character without having too overbearing of a body. A / $35

2009 Chamisal Vineyards Pinot Noir “Califa Selection” Edna Valley – The reserve bottling, this is richer and tougher, a big and chewy wine that strays somewhat from its Pinot roots. Monstrous to the point of being a bit flabby, the wine’s fruit turns toward prune and raisin flavors, obscuring some of this wine’s more herbal character. B+ / $55

chamisalvineyards.com

Review: Skyy Infusions Natural Coconut Vodka

The race to out-Malibu Malibu continues with Skyy’s latest Infusions installment: Natural Coconut.

A clear spirit, this vodka smells only moderately of its namesake fruit (it’s not really a nut, folks!), with a distinct alcoholic vaporousness behind as a kicker. On the tongue, quite sweet, and considerably more coconut-like, but with a vodka-fueled finish that’s a little harder-edged than I expect most drinkers are looking for in a flavored spirit like this.

On the whole it’s not at all bad, and of course it’s 70 proof instead of the much lower alcohol level typical of coconut rums, so some burn is expected — as is a bigger wallop in the punch department. Whether that’s something that appeals to you is left as an exercise for the reader.

B+ / $16 / skyy.com

skyy coconut infusions vodka Review: Skyy Infusions Natural Coconut Vodka

Review: VnC Pre-Mixed Cocktails

Pre-mixed cocktails continue to grow in popularity. VnC, which is based in New Zealand, takes it to the ultimate conclusion: The cocktails not only have the alcohol already in them (in addition to natural juices), they’re packaged both in party size bottlings and in single serve versions, which we reviewed.

Each 200ml cocktail comes in at 14% alcohol and includes a built-in cup so you look more sophisticated than drinking out of the bottle. Woo hoo! We tasted four of the six available varieties. All are 150 calories or less per serving. Thoughts follow.

VnC Pomegranate Cosmo – Vodka, triple sec, natural flavors, pomegranate, cranberry, and lime juices. Distinctly vodka-inflected, which lends this Cosmo a bit of a cough syrup character and makes it taste boozier than it really is. A decent amount of fruit helps salvage the mix, and you can actually taste the lime juice, a nice touch. (For what it’s worth, the lady thought this was far and away her favorite.) B

VnC Margarita – Tequila, triple sec, “natural margarita flavors,” lemon, and lime juices. Tastes authentic, and unlike the Cosmo it’s very easygoing on the booziness. Sweet, with a bit of tequila kick to it, a light and credible version of a classic margie. B+

VnC Vodka Mojito – Vodka with “natural mojito flavor” and lime juice. Why would you not use rum in a mojito? White rum is one of the cheapest spirits available. Not, perhaps, cheaper than vodka, I guess. Smells better than it tastes, full of minty promise on the nose… but chalky and a bit artificial on the tongue. Leaves a lingering aftertaste. C+

VnC Pacific Breeze – Vodka with “natural MaiTai flavor,” coconut, pineapple, and lime juices. This would be far better blended with ice than a simple liquid, but as it stands it’s got that tropical flavor that you really only want when you’re sitting on the beach. Again, this would be a much better drink with rum in it, but it’s credible enough for poolside consumption in a pinch. B

each $4 per 200ml bottle / vnccocktails.com

vnc cocktails Review: VnC Pre Mixed Cocktails

Review: Breckenridge Vodka and Bourbon

You don’t have to be in Kentucky to make Bourbon. Breckenridge Distillery is found high in the mountains of Colorado, where it creates whiskey and vodka at 9600 feet (it claims to be the world’s highest), using Rocky Mountain meltwater to craft its spirits. We tasted both. Thoughts follow.

Breckenridge Vodka – Distilled from grain and bottled at 80 proof, this is a nicely clean and traditional vodka, with a nose of medicinal spirit and a touch of cedar needles. The body is quite a bit more easygoing than you’d think — a medicinal (but quite pleasant) core, almost burnt sugar/creme brulee sweetness, and hints of evergreen on the finish. Great balance, with a lovely, creamy body. This is a fantastic vodka, and I’m not just saying that because of the clever, lift ticket-inspired bottle hanger. A / $27

Breckenridge Bourbon – From a mash bill of 56% yellow corn, 38% green rye, and 6% malted barley, this Bourbon is aged for at least two years and bottled at 86 proof. Though there’s plenty of color in the whiskey, the body is very light, an indicator of this spirit’s young age. Despite the slightly elevated (get it?) proof level, the overall impression in the mouth is a little watery and thin. It’s biggish on woody and caramel notes, with rye-heavy grain following close behind. Not a whole lot showing beyond that. If I didn’t know better, I’d think I was drinking a perfectly capable but young, workaday whiskey from any old distillery in Kentucky, not artisanal business from the Rocky Mountain High… B+ / $48

breckenridgedistillery.com

Review: Wines of Luce della Vite

Tenuta Luce della Vite is a Montalcino-based winery, where it makes its Super Tuscan wines from Sangiovese and Merlot. The winery recently reformulated its second label, Lucente, to use only the grapes used in its flagship Luce wine — an Italian requirement for wines to be considered a true “second wine.” (Before, Lucente also had Cabernet Sauvignon in it.)

Thoughts on both of these new releases follow.

2008 Luce – 55% Merlot and 45% Sangiovese. Tight on first blush, Luce opens up over time, revealing lots of blackberry character, plus a tough core of tobacco, bramble, and tar. Not quite balanced today, this moderately and surprisingly tart wine has its true character locked away. Try again in 2017. B+ / $93

2009 Lucente – 75% Merlot and 25% Sangiovese. A very soft and delicate wine, predominantly cherry, with chocolate and big blueberry notes that come on strong. Very mild body, silky, and easy drinking. New World in style, this is a pleasant quaffer but complex enough to invite discussion. A- / $30

lucewines.com

luce label wine Review: Wines of Luce della Vite

Book Review: Bartender’s Best Friend

Bartenders Best Friend book 188x300 Book Review: Bartender’s Best FriendMardee Haidin Regan’s tome of recipes arrives ready for action. The softbound book is clad in a presumably water-resistant plasticized shell, and a built-in bookmark ensures you won’t lose your place. 850+ recipes are included, and Regan makes the shrewd move to include both the classics and plenty of recently developed material too, with credit given to the creators and the bars where they work. How good does the Death at Dusk (sparkling wine, crème de violette, absinthe float, brandied cherry) sound? For the drinker who just wants to flip through a book to find something delicious to tipple on, Bartender’s Best Friend is an excellent choice.

I’m less thrilled with Regan’s decision to sort the book purely alphabetically. Oktoberfest Punch follows the Oatmeal Cookie, which in turn follows something that should have easily been edited out called Nyquil. Still, with a high enough proportion of hits to misses, this book is a worthwhile, and imminently flippable, read.

B+ / $13 / [BUY IT HERE]

Review: Pisco 100

Pop quiz: What’s the proof level of Pisco 100?

84 proof, of course!

The origin of Pisco 100′s name is unclear, but this Peruvian Pisco — an “acholado” style blended of distillate from several grape varietals — is a pungent example of the spirit. On the nose, traditional Pisco character — jet fuel, aromatic pine needles, woody coconut husk. The evergreen sticks with you into the body, which speaks again of the forest, with a mushroomy finish that makes you forget about that gasoline rush on the nose.

Earthy, fresh, and fragrant, it has a lot to like, especially those fun aromatics, though it’s a touch on the pricey side.

B+ / $40 / pisco100.com

pisco 100 Review: Pisco 100

Brewery Spotlight: Epic Brewing Company (Part I)

This week I’m going to start a new series of entries called “Brewery Spotlight.” These posts will look at multiple beers from a brewery’s portfolio with the hope of comparing, contrasting, and pointing out characteristics that are common among different beers, either because of water, house yeast, or preferential hop strains by the brewers.

Our inaugural spotlight will focus on Epic Brewing Company out of Salt Lake City. While Utah isn’t exactly a hotbed for all things alcoholic, you wouldn’t realize that by looking at its offerings. Encompassing three different product lines titled Classic, Elevated, and Exponential, Epic Brewing’s beers cover an extremely wide style range of beers and even some unique twists!

Brainless on Peaches combines the yeasty effervescence of a Belgian with the oakiness of wine, Brainless of Peaches starts as a golden ale before receiving a dose of peach puree. After fermentation, Epic Brewing funnels the beer into French Chardonnay casks from Sawtooth Winery for aging. I could recognize most of the base notes and the beneficial qualities of the peach and barrel-aging when I smelled this, but none of it exactly jumped out at me. Sugary peaches, Belgian yeast, oak, grape, and white wine all vie for position with bit of grain and breadiness to go around as well.

Much like the nose, the flavor doesn’t have one particular note that resonates above the rest. Even before the peaches hit I got a grainy yeast flavor, probably from the champagne yeast, which helps with the body but isn’t exactly a tasty flavor. Even the peach isn’t a front-runner, as it is content to sit back, reveling in its sweetness. The barrel is pretty noticeable, though, as the oak is subtle yet distinct, along with the chardonnay grapes which combine surprisingly well with the champagne yeast and has the added benefit of imparting a wonderful body and mouthfeel to this beer. B- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Brainless on Cherries has a similar life story to Brainless on Peaches in that it uses the same base Belgian golden ale base and undergoes secondary fermentation and aging within French Chardonnay casks. Obviously, this version substitutes the peach puree for cherries. This has the additional effect of giving it a nice, ruby appearance. However, similar to Brainless on Peaches, the fruit doesn’t take over the way I wanted it to, as the cherries give a pleasant tartness, but the smell is a combination of oak, cherries, grain, and even a touch of vanilla.

Usually when you think of cherries added to a beer, you expect a somewhat sour flavor,  but don’t be surprised when this doesn’t taste like it. The cherry comes across more as earthy, as if the skin was mixed in with the puree. I actually think the Chardonnay grapes are the most distinguishable flavor in this beer, along with the barrel. As in the nose, I’m getting a fair amount of grain and malt, but unlike Peaches, not a ton of alcohol.  B- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Hop Syndrome Lager is one of Epic Brewing’s summer seasonals and is brewed with the expectations of quenching thirsts while still delivering on the promise of big flavor and bold hops (unlike some lagers out there…). While the appearance isn’t too far out of the ordinary for a lager, consisting of a pale straw body, it does build a giant, clumpy head that lasts almost as long as the beer does. Not only does this look great, it gives the beer an ample springboard to release its aromatics. Epic Brewing got the name of this beer just right, as the nose is full of pungent hops that run the gamut from floral to spicy to fruity. I got a lot of black pepper, pear, and apple, and as strange as it sounds, even a touch of cinnamon.

On the palate Hop Syndrome is a little tamer, as a floral grassiness takes over that would make this beer seem like the perfect “lawnmower” beer, but it’s also complex enough to sit down with to enjoy the flavors. The fruits tend to fall away a little here as the hops become more bitter, but a kick of lemon zest helps cut through it.  B+ / $8 per 22oz bottle

The Sour Apple Saison is a unique twist on the Saison style. Typically classified as yeasty, grassy, and dry, saisons can also bring notes of funk or spiciness. Epic Brewing crafts Sour Apple Saison in the latter fashion and loads it up with more kinds of spice than I have ever encountered within the style. The beer is officially brewed with coriander, grains of paradise, anise, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger, and nearly all of these come across on the nose. Immediately after pouring, I could smell this beer and the copious amount of spices present. Coriander and ginger are easily the most aromatic of the group, with pinches of nutmeg and clove following. In a first for a saison, I actually am not getting a whole lot of grain or yeast in the nose, as the spices carry this from start to finish.

Despite the name, the taste doesn’t really have a whole lot of sourness to it… in fact I am hard-pressed to even say it’s tart. It does have a bit of apple to it which isn’t so apparent in the nose, but again, much of the flavor is derived from the spices. Here, the cinnamon seems to relax in favor of star anise, and the ginger is just as prominent as before. I am also getting more of the typical saison notes in the form of yeast and grain breadiness. I couldn’t really discern much of the other spices, but that’s probably for the best, as too much spice would’ve derailed this beer.  A- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Smoked & Oaked is the off-spring of a Belgian beer after mating with a Colorado whiskey barrel. Even the appearance looks daunting, as a thick liquid with a small head slowly fills the glass as it’s poured. The nose brings a lot of different characteristics and it takes a few minutes to actually digest what they are. A mild yet forward smokiness comes out first, mixing with the whiskey to help cut some of the sweetness that wants to explode. This gives the effect of imparting a strong sweetness without it being cloying, so the yeast and caramel can develop without fear of overburdening the senses.

Epic hit the nail on the head by using adjectives for the name of this beer, because the flavors all relate to the smoked and oaked aspect. The initial tastes are almost exclusively smoked malts and wood which makes it enjoyable especially during the colder months as I just think of a warm, smoldering fireplace. There is a logical transition here as the whiskey brings a sweetness that leads to the more sweet malts and yeast, so you get a smoky, alcoholic, sweet fruit quality that exudes an alcohol-soaked raisin quality. All the while it is smooth and balanced so that one facet of Smoked & Oaked doesn’t define it, but rather it’s the sum of the parts.   A / $12 per 22oz bottle

epicbrewing.com

Review: 2009 Treana Red Paso Robles

The flagship wine of the Hope Family Wines organization, Treana is primarily Cabernet Sauvignon (70%) with some Syrah (30%) thrown in for good measure. Hailing from Paso Robles, this blend is primarily a good representation of a Central Coast Cab, with that Syrah adding a touch of curiosity to the mix.

Restrained for Cabernet, Treana offers modest, muted plum character, some dark cherry notes, and tobacco and leather on the finish. Some greenness emerges as the finish fades. Very food friendly, the wine doesn’t overpower you with either jam or tannin. At the same time, its restraint keeps the thrills at bay. It’s a perfectly fine wine that will displease no one, but one that’s unlikely to be noted as anyone’s favorite, either.

B+ / $35 / hopefamilywines.com

Treana  Review: 2009 Treana Red Paso Robles

 

Roundup: Sparkling Moscato on the Rise

Moscato continues to prove how popular this grape has become when used as a low-alcohol, fruit-forward, and sweet alternative to other sparkling wines. These Moscatos show just how inexpensive and far-flung this wine is, hailing from eastern Europe and Australia, while not exactly proving how great it can be.

NV Esti Exclusiv Rose Moscato – Hailing from Moldova, this Moscato is from the same company that makes Exclusiv Vodka. The peach-colored wine lacks finesse. The fruit flavors are present — apples, mixed red berries — but come across like canned fruit, with a huge dose of perfumy flower petals atop  them. The finish is on the sour side. 10% abv. C- / $7

NV Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Moscato Australia – Not a bad representation of Moscato. Oranges and peaches, with a sweet but not overbearing presence. Finish is clean and refreshing, not cloying, while leaving behind some bracing sweetness. 9% abv. B+ / $6

NV Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Moscato Rose Australia – A rose similar to the Exclusiv, it’s cloying and smells of musty perfume, but with heavier and more saccharine sweetness on the finish. 9% abv. D+ / $7

esti exclusiv rose moscat Roundup: Sparkling Moscato on the Rise