Category Archives: Rated B+

Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Four

Once more into the breach? We’re a quarter of the way into the Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project, with the fourth round of 12 Bourbons released this month, bringing the total to 48 out of 192.

Need previous coverage or a baseline of what this experimental series is all about? Find it here:
Round One (including all the basics of the approach to this series)
Round Two
Round Three

We won’t waste time this quarter going into the basics. This round focuses on the differences between two warehouses at Buffalo Trace, one with wood floors (Warehouse K), and one with concrete (Warehouse L). You’ll find both rye and wheat whiskeys here, plus the usual variety of wood grain in barrels, but otherwise the details are the same: 125 entry proof, #3 char, level 12 seasoning, and bottom half of tree used for the barrels. As usual, all Bourbons are bottled at 90 proof.

My results: I found the Warehouse K whiskeys to be better than their otherwise identical Warehouse L counterparts 4 out of 6 times. I gave them tie grades once and scored the Warehouse L whiskey higher once (and I think the Warehouse K whiskey on that comparison was simply off). Wood ricks are of course traditional in Bourbon country, and maybe this is why: They seem to produce better booze.

That said, on the whole, I found this round to be very worthwhile — in fact, taken as a group, it’s probably the best set of releases to date. Not sure if it’s me, but there’s a lot of sweetness in this batch… for the most a good thing.

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #10 – Interesting texture, almost like dissolved sugar. Great body and good balance, with flavors of apricots, tangerines, aged wood, and a long vanilla cream finale. Smooth, silky finish. One of the best from this series to date. A (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #14 – More syrupy, and more wood influence. Bit of raisin in the body, giving this a touch more interest. Not a bad whiskey at all. B+ (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #42 – A bigger whiskey than the previous, more sweet, and a bit of burn. Cedar box and evergreen notes. A solid Bourbon, especially for the sweet tooths (sweet teeth?) out there. A- (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #46 – Heavy wood influence, a bit overcooked. The finish redeems with a powerful cinnamon character. Plenty of vanilla here, too. Solid, woody Bourbon. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #74 – Pure vanilla and caramel, a lovely Kentucky approximation of creme brulee. The wood makes an appearance at the end, which somewhat mars the fun. Still like it. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #78 – Lots of wood here, but that fades with time in the glass. Beneath that there’s some sugar. Caramel character, to be specific. That sweetness grows as the finish rumbles on. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #106 – Nice orange character, which grows stronger as the finish builds. A sizeable wood influence in here, too, but the balance is not as full-formed as with other Bourbons in this collection. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #110 – Smooth caramel in a glass, with some unusual herbal notes on the finish, plus some dark chocolate character. Quite a departure from the other whiskeys in this collection, particularly its sibling, #106 — and really quite enjoyable with its complexity. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #138 – Evergreen notes on the nose lead to a somewhat traditional and sweet whiskey. The finish is a touch sour compared to the others in this round, but on the whole it’s another solid Bourbon. B+ (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #142 – Perhaps the first miss in this collection. Not much happening on the nose, and on the tongue it fades quickly. Over-wooded, with the flavor sucked out a bit. B- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #170 – Pure nougat on the nose and the palate, but a touch on the alcoholic side, leaving a hot finish lacking in most of the other whiskeys here. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #174 – A touch of menthol, some cherry notes, then a lingering, lasting sweetness. Great balance. Lovely Bourbon. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

$46 each (375ml bottle) / singleoakproject.com

Review: Benromach Origins, Batch #1 Golden Promise 1999

We’re doing things a little backwards here. We’ve already reviewed Benromach’s second Origins series experimental Scotch whisky, and we’re backtracking to get to its first, Golden Promise 1999.

What is Golden Promise? A special type of barley developed in 1965, and one of the most popular in Scotch whiskeys. The Golden Promise used in this bottling was grown at Drumin Farm in Glenlivet. It’s considered one of the best barleys in the world and has won the prizes to prove it. This whiskey is made exclusively with this barley instead of a blend of lots of varieties, which is common.

The whisky is 9 years old, bottled in 2008. Otherwise the production is pretty par for single malt.

So, can you really “taste the barley” here? You can. As grain character goes, there’s plenty to go around. I’m not sure I know what raw (un-whiskyed) barley really tastes like, but I imagine it’s a lot like this. Big cereal character, with toasted grains, much like you’d get in a young American whiskey. Spicy and racy on the finish, it’s more convoluted than complicated.

Ultimately I think this whiskey feels a bit undercooked, and the grain character is too far in the foreground. More time in oak (possibly much more time) could temper some of that toast character, or a sherry cask finish might have rounded out the flavor profile.

But as an experiment, this is quite interesting: Pure grain, virtually no peat influence, and limited time in the barrel make for a curious whisky experience that’s worth a sample dram.

100 proof. (Batch #3 is shown below, but the bottles are nearly identical.)

B+ / $50 / benromach.com

benromach origins golden promise Review: Benromach Origins, Batch #1 Golden Promise 1999

Review: Wines of Pali Wine Company, 2010 Cuvees

Pali operates in Lompoc but bottles single vineyard wines — primary Pinot — from all over the west coast. Recently it launched a cuvee program to bring more affordable, region-specific wines to the masses in higher volumes than it can do with its single vineyard wines. We tasted three of the newly released 2010 bottlings. Notes follow.

2010 Pali Chardonnay Charm Acres Sonoma Coast - Surprisingly restrained for California Chardonnay. Lemon and grapefruit on the nose, buttery and rich body, but minimal oak influence and a really light finish that fades fast. Easy drinking and, while not exactly complicated, refreshing for Chardonnay. A- / $20

2010 Pali Pinot Noir Huntington Santa Barbara County – Very jammy for Pinot, particularly for a wine from the typically denser Santa Barbara region. Big strawberry and raspberry character, with minimal tannin. So much fruit you’d think you’re drinking grape juice. I don’t mean that in a bad way. I rated the 2009 vintage the same. B+ / $21

2010 Pali Pinot Noir Riviera Sonoma Coast – Even jammier, almost cloying. Massive strawberry character here, strawberry syrup and candy-like, with a touch of chocolate on the back end. Too sweet for my tastes. B- / $19

paliwineco.com

Review: Iceberg Vodka

A name like Iceberg comes loaded with connotation: The sea, salt air, the Titanic. Lots of maritime ideas in that word.

Funny then that Iceberg Vodka tastes nothing like the ocean from whence it literally came. No, seriously: Iceberg Vodka is called that because the water it’s made with comes from icebergs. (The company says the water, trapped in icebergs for 12,000 years, is ultra pure, 7,000 times more pure than tap water.) That’s the advantage of being made in Canada, I suppose.

It’s actually unclear what the distillate is created from — one presumes mixed, bulk grains — but the end result is a surprisingly clean and — inside the bottle — gimmick-free spirit. The nose is mild and indistinct, but that changes on the tongue. Here, strong vanilla notes carry the day, offering caramelized sugar character and a long, semi-sweet finish. There’s little sense of vodka’s traditional medicinal or herbal character here at all; this is a modern spirit with the funk wholly washed out of it. Take that as you’d care to… and go lick an iceberg.

80 proof. New packaging (shown below) as of 2012.

B+ / $18 / iceberg.ca

Iceberg Vodka Review: Iceberg Vodka

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Finish 1991 and Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 Scotch Whiskys

We love Gordon & MacPhail around here. One of the biggest and most reliable independent Scotch whisky producers, its selection is insightful and its releases are utterly vast, with perhaps more than 100 bottlings on the market at any given time. Keeping up with G&M would be impossible even if it wasn’t incredibly expensive, but we were lucky to get our hands on two new releases from the exquisite “Private Collection” series. Thoughts follow.

Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Wood Finish 1991 – This 20 year old Speyside whisky spends 30 long months in ex-Cote Rotie wine barrels. I’ve had mixed luck with Rhone Valley wine barrel finishes, but this one hits on all cylinders. Rich and smooth, velvety almost, it starts with honey, vanilla, and nougat notes, then brings on lots of eastern spices — cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne pepper. Citrus oil fades in and out, along with some malty grain notes at the end. Complex but beautifully balanced and a bargain for a 20 year old malt. 90 proof. 1900 bottles made. A / $80

Gordon & MacPhail Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 – Take a 14-year old smoky Islay and finish it in Hermitage wine barrels for 30 months and what do you get? Well, it’s interesting but a little muddy: Heavy peat on the nose, and plenty more on the tongue. The Hermitage tries to cut through this, particularly in the finish, but what manages to get across is little more than some relatively undefined orange peel sweetness. The color — a deep amber — hints at a lot of fruit. I do think it’s in there. Somewhere. 90 proof. 800 bottles made. B+ / $80

gordonandmacphail.com

Sauvignon Blanc Worldwide: What’s the Difference?

Sauvignon Blanc is a grape that is grown almost everywhere in the world. And while the basic wine is almost always the same — unoaked, lots of acid, tropical fruit flavors — different regions spin this grape in different ways. Here’s a short and sweet look at world Sauvignon Blancs.

2010 Justin Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles – Crisp apple notes in keeping with California Sauvignon Blanc’s traditional profile, with a steely, lightly mineral finish. Touch of pineapple and even coconut on the finish, too. Not a terrible amount of excitement or character here, but perfectly acceptable in a drink-it-with-Chinese-food sort of way. B / $15

2011 Chasing Venus Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough – Instantly New Zealand, the nose and palate are both chock full of pineapple and mango flavors, exotic tropical notes that are only hinted at in the California rendition of the grape. For many, NZ Sauvignon Blanc is off-putting because these characteristics are overwhelming to the point of being dessert-like. In this wine, you can see what they’re getting at. B- / $16

2011 Casa Silva Sauvignon Blanc Riserva Colchagua Valley – Turning to Chile, we see Sauvignon Blanc in a more restrained style. More melon on the nose, but the fruit is in the body. Milder pineapple, and some figs, too. Lots of acidity make this a crisp gulper, but do it a favor and let it warm up a bit to bring out the fruit. B+ / $12

Review: 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage

We last visited this wine with its 2007 vintage, but first a word on Banyuls. What is Banyuls? This is France’s version of Port, lightly fortified wines with alcohol added to stop fermentation while sugar is still in the system, leaving the wines sweet. Banyuls is less alcoholic than Port (this bottle is at 16% abv) and lighter in body, probably in part due to the use of Grenache grapes as the primary component.

By the way, Banyuls (pronounced ban-YULES), on the southernmost tip of France, along Spanish border near the Mediterranean, is also the home to a dry wine, typically named for the village of Collioure, which is in that territory. These wines are actually quite enjoyable, too, if you find one.

As for this sweet Banyuls from Les Clos de Paulilles, it has a picture of chocolate shavings on the label for a reason. The cocoa here is almost like a milk chocolate, smooth and with strawberry and some raspberry in the kicker. Very easygoing and not oppressively sweet, I expect some drinkers could easily mistake this for a fruitier Zinfandel.

B+ / $20 (500ml bottle) / clos-de-paulilles.com

Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage bottle Review: 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage

 

Review: Samuel Adams Alpine Spring

Spring is nowhere near in the air just yet, but Samuel Adams gave us a sneak peek at its latest brew, Alpine Spring.

Sounds (and kinda looks) more like a shampoo or a body wash, but let’s not judge on name alone.

Sam Adams describes this unique brew thusly: “This beer has the balanced maltiness and hoppiness of a helles, the strength and smoothness of a bock, and the unfiltered haze of a kellerbier. Although it’s categorized as an unfiltered wheat lager, this one-of-a-kind beer transcends any one style, and the crisp, citrus flavor notes make it a perfect offering for spring.”

Ultimately it comes across mostly as a relatively traditional (albeit unfiltered — Sam Adams’ first) German-style lager, light in body and modest with the hops. Lots of flavor in here, citrus on the nose, with a moderately sweet body reminiscent of honey and caramel. The finish is lasting, recalling milk chocolate and gingerbread, with more orange peel bringing up the rear. Not so much refreshing as it is filling and almost dessert-like.

5.5% abv.

B+ / $8 per six-pack / samueladams.com

samuel adams Alpine Spring Bottle Review: Samuel Adams Alpine Spring

Review: John B. Stetson Bourbon

Don’t let the New Jersey office location of Vision Wine & Spirits, the owner of this new whiskey, give you a scare. It’s Kentucky Straight Bourbon, through and through.

Crafted using both rye and wheat in the mashbill (in addition to corn and barley, of course), the whiskey is double distilled in traditional copper pot stills and aged for four years in oak (though no age statement is officially offered). Bottling proof is slightly elevated at 84 proof.

The results are just as dandy as one of Stetson’s namesake hats. On the nose: Some corn, and a bit of vaporous heat. Underneath, sugar, orange peel,and  cherries. There’s also some Irish whiskey-like banana character in the mid-palate, with a corn chip kicker on the finish. Stetson comes across as young Bourbon, but one with a bit of pedigree. Both the rye and wheat character come through, which is quite a delight. It isn’t brash or rough, just still a little wet around the ears. On the whole, it’s enjoyable, but it hasn’t quite come into its own just yet. I’d love to try this at 5 1/2 or 6 years old.

84 proof.

B+ / $27 / stetson-spirits.com

john b. stetson bourbon Review: John B. Stetson Bourbon

Review: t1 Tequilas

t1, aka Tequila Uno, is a new brand of Highlands-grown, 100% blue agave tequila brought to us by the master distiller of the well-regarded Chinaco Tequila line, German Gonzalez. Gonzalez’s twist on the spirit? For some of his varieties, instead of aging in Bourbon casks for his reposado and anejo, he uses ex-Scotch barrels (which were probably Bourbon barrels before that, of course). I don’t know that I’ve never heard of such a thing — but I was instantly intrigued.

The company dropped off all three varieties — including the just-launched anejo — for us to sample. All are 80 proof. Thought follow.

t1 Tequila Blanco Ultra-Fino - Straight, unaged white tequila. This exhibits the classic sweet and fruity character common to Highland tequilas, amazingly bright with pear and apple notes, a bit of lemon, and a little cinnamon on the finish — almost apple pie-like. The agave is heavy on the nose, at least initially. With air, this fades pretty quickly, leaving behind these wonderful fruit flavors and a soothing, mint-like agave lacing. Beautiful, one of the most subtle blancos I’ve experienced in a long while. A / $40

t1 Tequila Reposado Excepcional – t1 makes a standard reposado (we didn’t try it); this is the one aged in Scotch casks, where it spends 6 to 9 months soaking up goodness from that island up north. This is a really intriguing spirit. For starters, it’s quite sweet, much more so than I expected, but who knows what Scotch barrels are used here? Really bright citrus flavors here, lots of pineapple notes. It’s tough to pick out malt whisky character on this one, that sugariness is overwhelming. It even drowns out the agave notes for the most part, leaving behind something that approaches — as near as I can describe it — a lightly aged rum. As tequila goes, this is, put simply, something else. Frighteningly easy-drinking. B+ / $50

t1 Tequila Anejo Estelar – Intense coffee and burnt sugar dominates this anejo, which spends up to 24 months in Scotch barrels. I lively bronze in color, the body recalls the sweetness of the Excepcional, but is tempered with more candy bar notes, dark chocolate (again), plus coconut, almonds, and a cappuccino finish. Again, intensely drinkable, but not entirely challenging. A- / $55

t1tequila.com

 Review: t1 Tequilas