Category Archives: Rated B-

Review: Shock Top Lemon Shandy

From now until the end of July, our friends at Shock Top are offering this seasonal release, a classic Lemon Shandy reminiscent of the classic beer and lemonade combo.

It’s not my favorite from this brewery: The base beer is a lightly spiced Belgian wheat brew, which is harmless enough with a bit of coriander to offer intrigue, but the lemon flavor — which comes on in the finish — feels fake, or rather more like bottled lemon juice than lemonade. The aftertaste is sour and leaves a chemical impression. A real shandy should be sweeter and more refreshing. While this concoction is light enough for pre-summer drinking, it’s not really any more interesting than grabbing a bottle of Bud Light.

4.2% abv.

B- / $8 per six-pack / shocktopbeer.com

shock top lemon shandy Review: Shock Top Lemon Shandy

New Malbec Roundup – Trivento and Concha y Toro

These new Argentinean Malbecs come from Trivento and Concha y Toro, the latter of which is best known for its Chilean wines. Here’s how a bumper crop of the fruit of Mendoza shakes out.

2011 Concha y Toro Frontera Malbec Cuyo – Surprisingly tart and slightly sweet, jammy, with strawberry/raspberry jelly character muted by some lightly dusty notes. Finish heads into saccharine territory. C+ / $6

2011 Concha y Toro Xplorador Malbec Mendoza – Deeper and a bit richer, but still a simple wine. Thin body, with heavy and jammy plum/prune on the finish. B- / $8

2010 Trivento Amado Sur Malbec Mendoza – A blend: 80% Malbec, 10% Bonarda, 10% Syrah. A fairly innocuous blend, this is a simple wine with dominant black cherry character, licorice on the finish, and a fairly thin profile. Unassuming but easy to drink. B- / $15

2008 Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec Lujan de Cuyo Mendoza – A clear cut above the rest, something with heft and gravitas. Lush, Cabernet-like currants in the body, with a light touch of herbs gracing the palate. Moderate and pleasant finish. A winner. A- / $22

Book Review: Drinkology

drinkology book 300x300 Book Review: DrinkologyJames Waller’s Drinkology: The Art and Science of the Cocktail, aims for the library, with its soft-touch rubber-like coating covering the hardboard backing of this squat but thick tome. As the subtitle implies, there’s plenty of art and science to be found here – complete with stipple illustrations to show you how to rim a glass or use a Boston shaker.

400 recipes follow the basic tutorial stuff, segregated by primary spirit. It’s pretty easy to find what you want in this book… as long as you’re looking for a classic or mega-popular modern cocktail. If you need to know how to make a martini, a mojito, or a Long Island iced tea, Drinkology has you covered. It is considerably less populated with originals and lesser-known creations, and there is a definite surfeit of delicious-sounding avant garde stuff to be found.

Drinkology is fine for the basics – and as a book it looks really nice – but I expect most readers will already have the vast majority of these recipes in the books already on the shelves.

B- / $9 / [BUY IT HERE]

Review: Refine Zero Calorie Mixers

Refine says it aims to “refine” the skinny cocktail with these zero-calorie mixers. Flavored with stevia, they’re available in 32 oz. bottles in three flavors.

Refine Margarita Mix – Bright yellow, looks supernatural. Tastes very tart, with lots of intense lemon/lime soda character, but with a chalkiness that recalls Crystal Light granules (thanks, I’m sure, to all the citric acid in the mix). Could be worse. B-

Refine Mojito Mix – Unthrilling, this mostly clear mixer doesn’t really recall fresh lime or mint, just a vague sweetness that could be mistaken for a flat 7-Up. Could be better. C-

Refine Cosmopolitan Mix – The bright pink color is misleading, but this mixer has surprisingly more lime character than the mojito does. After that, a touch of strawberry or raspberry, more Jolly Rancher than fresh fruit. Not unpalatable, but the chemical aftertaste is rough on this one. C

each $9 per 32 oz. bottle / refinemixers.com

refine mixers Review: Refine Zero Calorie Mixers

Brewery Spotlight: Epic Brewing Company (Part I)

This week I’m going to start a new series of entries called “Brewery Spotlight.” These posts will look at multiple beers from a brewery’s portfolio with the hope of comparing, contrasting, and pointing out characteristics that are common among different beers, either because of water, house yeast, or preferential hop strains by the brewers.

Our inaugural spotlight will focus on Epic Brewing Company out of Salt Lake City. While Utah isn’t exactly a hotbed for all things alcoholic, you wouldn’t realize that by looking at its offerings. Encompassing three different product lines titled Classic, Elevated, and Exponential, Epic Brewing’s beers cover an extremely wide style range of beers and even some unique twists!

Brainless on Peaches combines the yeasty effervescence of a Belgian with the oakiness of wine, Brainless of Peaches starts as a golden ale before receiving a dose of peach puree. After fermentation, Epic Brewing funnels the beer into French Chardonnay casks from Sawtooth Winery for aging. I could recognize most of the base notes and the beneficial qualities of the peach and barrel-aging when I smelled this, but none of it exactly jumped out at me. Sugary peaches, Belgian yeast, oak, grape, and white wine all vie for position with bit of grain and breadiness to go around as well.

Much like the nose, the flavor doesn’t have one particular note that resonates above the rest. Even before the peaches hit I got a grainy yeast flavor, probably from the champagne yeast, which helps with the body but isn’t exactly a tasty flavor. Even the peach isn’t a front-runner, as it is content to sit back, reveling in its sweetness. The barrel is pretty noticeable, though, as the oak is subtle yet distinct, along with the chardonnay grapes which combine surprisingly well with the champagne yeast and has the added benefit of imparting a wonderful body and mouthfeel to this beer. B- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Brainless on Cherries has a similar life story to Brainless on Peaches in that it uses the same base Belgian golden ale base and undergoes secondary fermentation and aging within French Chardonnay casks. Obviously, this version substitutes the peach puree for cherries. This has the additional effect of giving it a nice, ruby appearance. However, similar to Brainless on Peaches, the fruit doesn’t take over the way I wanted it to, as the cherries give a pleasant tartness, but the smell is a combination of oak, cherries, grain, and even a touch of vanilla.

Usually when you think of cherries added to a beer, you expect a somewhat sour flavor,  but don’t be surprised when this doesn’t taste like it. The cherry comes across more as earthy, as if the skin was mixed in with the puree. I actually think the Chardonnay grapes are the most distinguishable flavor in this beer, along with the barrel. As in the nose, I’m getting a fair amount of grain and malt, but unlike Peaches, not a ton of alcohol.  B- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Hop Syndrome Lager is one of Epic Brewing’s summer seasonals and is brewed with the expectations of quenching thirsts while still delivering on the promise of big flavor and bold hops (unlike some lagers out there…). While the appearance isn’t too far out of the ordinary for a lager, consisting of a pale straw body, it does build a giant, clumpy head that lasts almost as long as the beer does. Not only does this look great, it gives the beer an ample springboard to release its aromatics. Epic Brewing got the name of this beer just right, as the nose is full of pungent hops that run the gamut from floral to spicy to fruity. I got a lot of black pepper, pear, and apple, and as strange as it sounds, even a touch of cinnamon.

On the palate Hop Syndrome is a little tamer, as a floral grassiness takes over that would make this beer seem like the perfect “lawnmower” beer, but it’s also complex enough to sit down with to enjoy the flavors. The fruits tend to fall away a little here as the hops become more bitter, but a kick of lemon zest helps cut through it.  B+ / $8 per 22oz bottle

The Sour Apple Saison is a unique twist on the Saison style. Typically classified as yeasty, grassy, and dry, saisons can also bring notes of funk or spiciness. Epic Brewing crafts Sour Apple Saison in the latter fashion and loads it up with more kinds of spice than I have ever encountered within the style. The beer is officially brewed with coriander, grains of paradise, anise, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger, and nearly all of these come across on the nose. Immediately after pouring, I could smell this beer and the copious amount of spices present. Coriander and ginger are easily the most aromatic of the group, with pinches of nutmeg and clove following. In a first for a saison, I actually am not getting a whole lot of grain or yeast in the nose, as the spices carry this from start to finish.

Despite the name, the taste doesn’t really have a whole lot of sourness to it… in fact I am hard-pressed to even say it’s tart. It does have a bit of apple to it which isn’t so apparent in the nose, but again, much of the flavor is derived from the spices. Here, the cinnamon seems to relax in favor of star anise, and the ginger is just as prominent as before. I am also getting more of the typical saison notes in the form of yeast and grain breadiness. I couldn’t really discern much of the other spices, but that’s probably for the best, as too much spice would’ve derailed this beer.  A- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Smoked & Oaked is the off-spring of a Belgian beer after mating with a Colorado whiskey barrel. Even the appearance looks daunting, as a thick liquid with a small head slowly fills the glass as it’s poured. The nose brings a lot of different characteristics and it takes a few minutes to actually digest what they are. A mild yet forward smokiness comes out first, mixing with the whiskey to help cut some of the sweetness that wants to explode. This gives the effect of imparting a strong sweetness without it being cloying, so the yeast and caramel can develop without fear of overburdening the senses.

Epic hit the nail on the head by using adjectives for the name of this beer, because the flavors all relate to the smoked and oaked aspect. The initial tastes are almost exclusively smoked malts and wood which makes it enjoyable especially during the colder months as I just think of a warm, smoldering fireplace. There is a logical transition here as the whiskey brings a sweetness that leads to the more sweet malts and yeast, so you get a smoky, alcoholic, sweet fruit quality that exudes an alcohol-soaked raisin quality. All the while it is smooth and balanced so that one facet of Smoked & Oaked doesn’t define it, but rather it’s the sum of the parts.   A / $12 per 22oz bottle

epicbrewing.com

Review: Tequila Clase Azul

I’m never quite sure what to make of the ornate tequila bottles like this. They’re striking to look at, but I always feel like they’re trying to hide something behind a lot of glass, metal, and ceramic.

Perhaps my fears are founded in the case of Clase Azul, a very expensive and unique but ham-fisted tequila that stretched the boundaries of my tequila taste glossary. This brand is beloved by many a tequila fan, but the sweetness of the house style is just too overwhelming for me. This 100% agave Highlands tequila is made with 9 to 10 year old organic agave plants, double distilled in copper alembic stills.

We tasted both the Plata and Reposado. Both expressions are 80 proof.

Tequila Clase Azul Plata is a striking blanco, unlike any other I’ve tried. On the nose: Agave and peppers, a mere hint at what’s in the glass. Take a sip and Clase Azul’s Plata goes nuts: There is so much going on here I scarcely know where to start. First off: It’s bracingly sweet, not sugary, but like Nutrasweet. Powerful and palate-jarring. If you can push past that, you get some of that agave character, plenty of nutty notes, a bit of spice, and a finish that tastes like a candy bar. It’s long and lasting, more like a liqueur than a tequila. If any 100% agave tequila could use lime and salt to balance it out — not because it’s alcoholically heavy in the slightest, mind you — this is it. C+ / $75

Tequila Clase Azul Reposado is mellowed in deep char oak for at least 8 months, which gives this tequila more character, but it retains that funky sweetness that the Plata is imbued with. Here the sweetness veers into a vanilla character, more like a creme brulee than the candy bar of the Plata. That offers more nuance to play with the slight pepper notes, but not much: The sugary notes remain overwhelming — and I am normally a huge fan of sweeter tequilas — again leaving you with a finish that coats the mouth, making you reach for the salty bar mix. B- / $90

claseazul.com

We Review George Killian’s Irish Red: New Recipe, Packaging

Killian’s was a big hit around when I was in college. I’m sure I drank plenty of it then, but haven’t even thought about it in the last 15 years or so.

Now, as we head into St. Patrick’s Day, Killian’s Irish Red is revamping its recipe and repackaging the beer. The new recipe, per the company, “results in a rich, roasted, full-bodied, well-balanced lager that maintains the beer’s deep ruby red color, but links it more closely to the beer George first brewed back in Enniscorthy [in 1864].”

I obviously have no “original” Killian’s for comparative purposes, but my memory of it isn’t particularly exciting. I remember the red-hued beer as relatively thin and unremarkable, but certainly a more savory option than Miller Lite.

The new Killian’s is indeed a bolder beer, with a mouth-filling nutty and malty character studded with caramel notes that together certainly scream power, while not exactly offering much balance, just a somewhat muddy hodgepodge of malt shop tones. Killian’s remains perfectly acceptable on game day or when there’s a big special at happy hour, but those seeking something more refined won’t likely be wowed.

B- / $8 per six-pack / georgekillians.com

george killians irish red 2012 bottle We Review George Killians Irish Red: New Recipe, Packaging

Review: Daron Calvados Fine Pays D’Auge

We don’t drink much apple brandy round these parts, either domestic or foreign. Daron is the Calvados brand you’re probably most likely to encounter in the wild. There’s not a lot of information about the brandy’s provenance available (it’s Daron’s entry-level spirit), but it comes from the Pays d’Auge region of France, which is widely regarded for its apple orchards. Aging time is not disclosed.

The nose is mild, distinctly apple but slight and a bit thin. On the body, a rush of alcohol, then old wood tones. Apple comes on later, with a bit of vanilla and cinnamon on the finish. The balance is off on this; there’s not enough fruit and the wood character is too hoary and rough for what ought to be an elegant spirit, and the body is too thin for any of it.

Sure, at this price you don’t expect greatness, but this Calvados is mainly fit only for mixology, not straight sipping.

80 proof.

B- / $20 (375ml bottle) / daroncalvados.com

daron calvados Review: Daron Calvados Fine Pays DAuge

Review: Patron XO Cafe Dark Cocoa Liqueur

Patron already makes a coffee-flavored liqueur, XO Cafe, and now it extends that line with XO Cafe Dark Cocoa, which adds Mexican Criollo chocolate to the mix of Patron silver and coffee flavors.

All the components are there. Chocolate with a touch of cinnamon hits you first on the nose. Take a sip and that Mexican chocolate character quickly arrives again. This is quickly followed by somewhat light coffee character, then a good slug of tequila. It isn’t the smooth number that you expect from Patron, with quite a bit of burn on the finish, but there’s plenty of legit tequila character in the finish. The body is oily — a bit syrupy.

But is that really what you want? Coffee liqueur lends itself to some pretty specific cocktails, and I’m not sure any of them is improved by adding tequila to the mix. Recipes that I’ve seen involving both Kahlua and tequila are never high on my “must order” list.

Still, if a Kahlua Cockroach (1 part coffee liqueur, 1.5 parts tequila, and yes that’s a real drink) sounds like it’s up your alley, then yes, without question, Patron XO Cafe Dark Cocoa is where you need to be.

60 proof.

B- / $20 / patrontequila.com

Patron XO Cafe Dark Cocoa Review: Patron XO Cafe Dark Cocoa Liqueur

Review: C by Courvoisier Cognac

All brands must expand, and Courvoisier has been on a tear lately. First Courvoisier Rose, now C by Courvoisier.

Unlike the Rose, C is a full Cognac, blended from spirits produced from grapes from 50 winegrowers in the Fin Bois Cru, a somewhat lesser Cognac region surrounding Grand Champagne and Petite Champagne. That’s understandable: There are only so many grapes in Grande Champagne and they must cost a fair Euro these days, so Courvoisier can make a less expensive Cognac by stepping into nearby areas. The resulting spirit is double barreled in both young and mature barrels. No age statement is offered.

The results are unfortunately a bit tepid. The deep amber, almost burnt orange color is enticing, and the nose offers lots of citrus and apple fruit character, with a touch of floral element to it. On the body, lots of heat. In a vessel that curves in at the lip, this traps a lot of alcohol in the glass, and it quickly becomes overwhelming. Let it dissipate (or try a different drinking implement) and you’ll get lots more of that apple/orange fruit, plus a healthy slug of wood. Not a whole lot of balance here, as the fruit and wood notes just don’t mingle well. I think Courvoisier did this intentionally with those new wood barrels to produce a more flavorful and “brash” spirit, and there it succeeds — this is not a delicate Cognac — but it comes at the price of smoothness and complexity.

80 proof.

B- / $35 / courvoisier.com

C by Courvoisier cognac Review: C by Courvoisier Cognac

Review: Wines of Pali Wine Company, 2010 Cuvees

Pali operates in Lompoc but bottles single vineyard wines — primary Pinot — from all over the west coast. Recently it launched a cuvee program to bring more affordable, region-specific wines to the masses in higher volumes than it can do with its single vineyard wines. We tasted three of the newly released 2010 bottlings. Notes follow.

2010 Pali Chardonnay Charm Acres Sonoma Coast - Surprisingly restrained for California Chardonnay. Lemon and grapefruit on the nose, buttery and rich body, but minimal oak influence and a really light finish that fades fast. Easy drinking and, while not exactly complicated, refreshing for Chardonnay. A- / $20

2010 Pali Pinot Noir Huntington Santa Barbara County – Very jammy for Pinot, particularly for a wine from the typically denser Santa Barbara region. Big strawberry and raspberry character, with minimal tannin. So much fruit you’d think you’re drinking grape juice. I don’t mean that in a bad way. I rated the 2009 vintage the same. B+ / $21

2010 Pali Pinot Noir Riviera Sonoma Coast – Even jammier, almost cloying. Massive strawberry character here, strawberry syrup and candy-like, with a touch of chocolate on the back end. Too sweet for my tastes. B- / $19

paliwineco.com

Sauvignon Blanc Worldwide: What’s the Difference?

Sauvignon Blanc is a grape that is grown almost everywhere in the world. And while the basic wine is almost always the same — unoaked, lots of acid, tropical fruit flavors — different regions spin this grape in different ways. Here’s a short and sweet look at world Sauvignon Blancs.

2010 Justin Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles – Crisp apple notes in keeping with California Sauvignon Blanc’s traditional profile, with a steely, lightly mineral finish. Touch of pineapple and even coconut on the finish, too. Not a terrible amount of excitement or character here, but perfectly acceptable in a drink-it-with-Chinese-food sort of way. B / $15

2011 Chasing Venus Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough – Instantly New Zealand, the nose and palate are both chock full of pineapple and mango flavors, exotic tropical notes that are only hinted at in the California rendition of the grape. For many, NZ Sauvignon Blanc is off-putting because these characteristics are overwhelming to the point of being dessert-like. In this wine, you can see what they’re getting at. B- / $16

2011 Casa Silva Sauvignon Blanc Riserva Colchagua Valley – Turning to Chile, we see Sauvignon Blanc in a more restrained style. More melon on the nose, but the fruit is in the body. Milder pineapple, and some figs, too. Lots of acidity make this a crisp gulper, but do it a favor and let it warm up a bit to bring out the fruit. B+ / $12

Review: Captain Morgan Tattoo Rum

For a good time, do a Google Image Search for “Captain Morgan Tattoo.” You’ll find plenty of pictures not of this spiced rum but of unique and ill-considered body art on all kinds of anatomical bits.

I’ve actually had a mini of Tattoo for years. It’s that mysterious. What’s it all about? Tattoo is a spiced, “extra dark” rum with additional flavoring agents added. It is said to have been developed as a Jagermeister competitor, and pouring a shot reveals how that works.

It’s dark to the point of near opacity, with a heady nose of citrus fruit, raspberries, and a touch of classic vanilla rum character. Promising, perhaps, but a sip offers a cacophony of flavors, from the rough rum body to the heavy allspice and clove finish. The middle is pure molasses, those citrus notes being largely drowned out by all the other stuff going on here. What’s missing? Any sort of balance. Tattoo is a mess of a spirit, almost liqueur like and just too overblown  with additives to be a serious rum.

But as an ice-cold shooter to prime college kids for a night out? Well, maybe I can see where the Captain is coming from.

70 proof.

B- / $18 / captainmorgan.com

captain morgan tattoo rum Review: Captain Morgan Tattoo Rum

Review: Mathilde Poire and Framboise Liqueurs

These 100 percent natural liqueurs from France are staples of many a cocktail bar. We recently tasted two of the company’s five available varieties.

Mathilde Poire Liqueur is a mild on the nose, and quite sweet on first sip. Pear isn’t particularly predominant except on the first rush of flavor. That sweetness grows and grows, leaving a thick, almost cloying finish on the palate — and very little pear character to speak of. This one’s tough to swallow (literally) in all but small quantities. 36 proof. C

Mathilde Framboise Liqueur is a raspberry spirit, deep crimson in color and mildly fragrant of vague berries. The taste: Pure raspberry jam, extremely sweet, loaded with Jolly Rancher-like raspberry flavor. Maybe some strawberry, too. It’s a much different (and less satisfying) beast than Chambord, the king of raspberry liqueur, which (compared side by side) is richer, earthier, and with a seriously pronounced nose. Chambord’s chocolate notes give it a lot more depth. In comparison, Mathilde is really a juicy, one-trick pony. 36 proof. B-

each $15 per 375ml bottle / mathildeliqueur.com

Tasting Pine Ridge Vineyards Wines

Pine Ridge is a winery that I’ve visited many times and tasted many more. The proprietors were kind enough to send their latest round of releases for our commentary. Thoughts follow.

2010 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc+Viognier California -  79% Chenin Blanc and 21% Viognier, it turns out to be a fantastic combo. Peach and light honey notes via the Viognier are immediately present, balanced by racy acidity from the Chenin Blanc. Very easy drinking, and wonderful balance. I would never think to order a Chenin Blanc from a wine list, but this is a crazy value. A / $14

2009 Pine Ridge Dijon Clones Chardonnay Carneros / Napa Valley -  A straight up California Chardonnay, light on the oak and butter, but rich and full bodied. Some grapefruit character and pineapples play with the pear-infused body, but the finish runs back a bit toward the woody, and lightly astringent, side. B / $25

2008 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – The jamminess punches you from the first whiff, and a sip crams sweet maraschino cherry character down your gullet. The finish, all burnt cocoa and coffee grounds, just keeps that power — not entirely friendly — going. B- / $40

2008 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - A bit more balance here, with a tartness that mutes the sweetness of the wine, still present in spades. The cherries turn black and that burnt character is minimized here. Definitely drinkable, but lacking in nuance in the way that so many overdone Napa Cabs can be. B+ / $65

pineridgewinery.com

Review: Hoosier Momma Bloody Mary Makers

As you prepare for New Year’s Eve festivities, forget not the aftermath: Tomorrow morning may hurt, and the solution may very well be found in a nice Bloody Mary.

The curiously named Hoosier Momma Bloody Mary Maker (B+), from the great state of Indiana, of course, is the latest ready-to-go Bloody to cross through our doors. It doesn’t take long to see this isn’t V8 and Worcestershire: Moderately chunky, with pulp bits, and laden with little flecks of spices. Despite the flecks, the standard version isn’t all that spicy. In fact, it has more sweetness than other Bloody mixes, a bit citrus on the finish, and very lightly spicy with a touch of horseradish.

Hoosier Momma Spicy Bloody Mary Maker (B-) kicks things up with a Tabasco-like rush. Sadly, I think this works against the mixer, coming across with raw heat and dulling the fun of this mix. The sweetness is still quite strong, but after the sugar and spice, I don’t get much more than simple tomato juice flavor.

My only other issue with this mixer is with the packaging. These mixes come not in bottles but in jars — like fat mayonnaise jars. It’s certainly unique packaging, but it does make it hard to pour the stuff inside, particularly if you’re working with a single serving or narrow glass. I get that it helps showcase Hoosier Mama’s chunkiness, but a) it’s not really that thick, and b) a wider-mouth bottle would have been more practical.

each $8 per 32 oz. jar / hoosiermomma.com

hoosier momma bloody mary mixer Review: Hoosier Momma Bloody Mary Makers

Review: Banfi Centine Wines

Banfi’s Centine line (pronounced CHEN-tee-nay, or so the label says), are Italian blends designed to be sustainable, but more importantly, affordable. Retailing for all of 11 bucks, you should find them widely available everywhere.

2010 Banfi Centine Toscana Bianco White Wine – A blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio. Surprisingly refreshing, it’s got lots of pineapple and mango character, and moderate (though not exactly bracing) acidity. Mild creaminess in the finish remind you that there’s Chardonnay in here, but I’d drink this over Santa Margherita any day. B+

2010 Banfi Centine Toscana Rose Wine – A pink blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese, it’s not my favorite base for rose wines, but it works well enough. There’s really not a whole lot to it: Some strawberry notes, a little bit of green vegetable on the finish, and then it’s whisked away. The finish is refreshing. B

2009 Banfi Centine Toscana Rosso Red Wine – A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Sangiovese, this red is light bodied and mild, with light chocolate and moderate plum tones. The finish is a bit prune-heavy, but overall it’s pleasant enough for an everyday Italian wine. B-

$11 each / castellobanfi.com

Review: Bytox Hangover Remedy Patch

Say what you will, but I am an unabashed fan of the Zaca Hangover Patch. Every time I’ve worn one, I’ve woken up the next day refreshed and feeling fine.

Now there’s another hangover-slaying patch on the market: Bytox. How would it measure up?

The idea is exactly the same: Put the patch on before drinking, and leave it on overnight. It sends vitamins and such through your body while you sleep. The makeup of Bytox is quite different than Zaca, which is heavy on Lycopene, Prickly Pear, and other such stuff. The Bytox patch contains Vitamins A, B12, B2, B3, B6, Pantothenic Acid, Folic Acid, D, E, K, and Thiamine (the lack of the lattermost being what Bytox ultimately blames hangovers on). Acai berry is the only new-age addition to the vitamin mix. The patch itself is also different, larger and feeling more like plastic than the cotton mesh Zaca. And while I love the idea of not having to swallow anything to get vitamins and such into the system, I found Bytox left a residue on my skin after I removed it.

While mileage will always vary with these things, ultimately Bytox didn’t seem to work as well for me as Zaca. While wearing it I slept restlessly, had bizarre dreams when I was out, and woke up with a mild headache. Bytox (like any hangover remedy) obviously can’t erase the effects of drinking, but it didn’t seem to do enough compared to other stuff on the market — though it is substantially cheaper. Willing to try it again, though.

Update Nov 2012: Removed from sale in the UK.

B- / $11.49 for 5 patches / bytox.com

bytox patch Review: Bytox Hangover Remedy Patch

Review: Pearl Wedding Cake Vodka

Is it too late to celebrate that Kardashian wedding? Not in my book, and while it may be gauche to send a set of knives, why not honor the happy couple privately with a bottle of Pearl Wedding Cake Vodka.

Yes, vodka flavored like wedding cake. I didn’t know wedding cake had a flavor — I thought it was usually just “white cake,” and I’ve heard of all kinds of other oddball wedding cake flavors. Pearl’s take on the matter seems to focus primarily on vanilla. I suppose it could be construed as a general white cake and frosting flavor, but you could use this pretty interchangeably as vanilla vodka in any recipe.

Very sweet and pungent, there’s no bite here and no noticeable vodka character. Not a lot of nuance, but mostly harmless.

70 proof. Artificially and naturally flavored.

B / $14 / pearlvodka.com

pearl wedding cake vodka Review: Pearl Wedding Cake Vodka

Review: Bruichladdich Laddie Classic, Organic, Port Charlotte An Turas Mor, and Octomore 3

Islay’s Bruichladdich — “the progressive Hebridean distillers” — is in the midst of an upheaval. Long known for releasing dozens of whiskys each year, the distillery has suffered from a bit of an identity crisis. Some Bruichladdich whiskys could be light and filled with fruit. Some are overwhelming peat bombs. Where is the distillery’s soul?

Finally, Bruichladdich has had a crisis of conscience and is refocusing on fewer brands, splitting them among natural divisions. Going forward, the Bruichladdich brand will focus on unpeated whiskys. The Port Charlotte and Octomore brands will feature peated stuff. Overall, the number of bottlings (or SKUs) will greatly decrease. By my count we’ll see roughly six new bottlings (instead of 16) from Bruichladdich this season.

We tasted the four major releases from the company coming down the pipeline.

Bruichladdich Laddie Classic Edition 01 – This “minimally peated” dram will be part of the “core” offerings from Bruichladdich going forward, a vatting of old (18-20 year old whiskeys and younger (5-7 year old) stuff, aged fully in ex-Bourbon casks. A really solid and, indeed, classic whisky. Mild honey and nougat on the nose, masking what turns into a surprisingly big body, with burnt sugar, orange, and toffee. Wood kicks in on the finish. Nice balance of sweetness with the savory finish, and the lush creaminess gives it a certain austerity you don’t often find in mid-level whiskys. While not cheap, it’s still a great candidate for an “everyday dram.” 92 proof. A- / $69

Bruichladdich The Organic – This is a vatting of three prior Bruichladdich Organic releases: Organic 2003, 2004, and 2005. Now just called “The Organic,” it’s still a collection of whiskys made from organic barley. I don’t like the nose on this one. It’s funky, with a kind of mushroomy character to it. The body is an improvement, hefty straw and grain notes — this is, after all, designed to showcase what barley tastes like — but its youth gets in the way. A curious novelty, but I’m not loving it at this price. 92 proof. B- / $78

Bruichladdich Port Charlotte An Turas Mor – Another vatting, this is a blend of Port Charlotte PC6, PC7, and PC8. Heavily peated, the nose is something like sweet barbeque smoke, fruity and a bit like a sugary bacon. The body is a bit on the thin side, and the finish isn’t entirely balanced. A whisky this peaty needs more body to back it up. 92 proof. B / $72

Bruichladdich Octomore 3 – Now officially the most heavily peated whisky on earth: A stunning 152ppm of phenol. (Where will it end? Who knows.) Aged 5 years. Those of you who’ve experienced these ultra-peated whiskys know the score, but I found this third round of Octomore more engaging and, surprisingly, easier going than earlier versions. Yes, the smoke and heat are devastating, but they are tempered with something almost candy-like. This isn’t a Scotch for everyone, but it’s easily worth a sample if you’re a smoldering type. 18,000 bottles made. 118 proof. A- / $195

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