Category Archives: Rated A

Review: Elijah Craig Single Barrel 20 Years Old 1991

Recently named American Whiskey of the Year by Whisky Advocate, this rarity from Heaven Hill’s Elijah Craig brand has some big expectations to live up to. Distilled and barreled in 1991, it’s been lingering for 20 years before being bottled for your drinking pleasure.

As John Hansell notes in the blog post linked above, Heaven Hill is one of the masters of dealing with very old American whiskeys — the annual Evan Williams Single Barrel releases are some of the most anticipated bottles to arrive each year at Drinkhacker HQ.

WA‘s praise (based on a limited edition barrel released last fall) is hard to argue with. With Elijah Craig 20 Year, you get a Bourbon full of flavor: the typical vanilla, wood oil, peaches, and a distinct raisin character. Plenty of wood here, as you’d expect with a whiskey this old, but it’s balanced by all these other components. Later on, you get more of a fruitcake character from the whiskey, those raisins taking on cinnamon and nutmeg notes, with a candied finish. The wood’s on the nose, the fruit bats clean-up. Lovely lovely lovely.

90 proof. Reviewed Barrel #1, barreled on 3/13/1991. About 80 barrels/1300 bottles produced.

A / $130 / heavenhill.com

Elijah Craig 20 Year Old Single Barrel 1991 Review: Elijah Craig Single Barrel 20 Years Old 1991

Review: Eagle Rare Single Barrel Bourbon

Part of the Buffalo Trace empire, Eagle Rare is a 10 year old Bourbon with plenty to recommend. A classically structured Bourbon, it is sweet without being cloying, and there’s barely a trace of its corn heritage here, most of which you catch on the nose. What remains is an intense dessert-like caramel character, touched with vanilla and cocoa notes, and a long, smooth finish. The balance is just about perfect here: Racy at 90 proof but not too hot. The only complaint I have is a body that lacks a lot of oomph to it. It isn’t thin, but a more creamy texture would complement the sweetness even more. Outstanding value. I’ve seen it for as little as $16 a bottle, which is almost insane for a 10 year old Bourbon.

Looking to kick it up a notch? Check out the 17 Year Old version, part of the annual Antique Collection releases. It varies from year to year (and the wood can get a little hoary in some renditions), but it’s great as a point of comparison with the 10 Year.

A / $23 / eaglerare.com

eagle rare single barrel Review: Eagle Rare Single Barrel Bourbon

Review: Upland Brewing Co. Gilgamesh

Upland Gilgamesh Review: Upland Brewing Co. GilgameshHailing from Bloomington, Indiana, Upland Brewing Co. is creating a stir among craft beer circles for its extensive souring program, which seeks to produce traditional lambics, gueuzes, and Flanders-style ales within the United States. This effort has notably spawned over eight different varieties of fruited lambics as well as the beer that is the subject of today’s review – Gilgamesh.

Brewed within the Flanders Red style, Gilgamesh combines traditional characteristics as well as introducing a unique twist in the form of utilizing bourbon barrels to finish the beer. After an initial struggle with the cork that left my palms a little worse for wear, this looks every bit the part of a typical Flanders Red, exhibiting a dark ruby color with deeper patches of mahogany interspersed within.

At first, the nose is acidic and has a little splash of vinegar, but not enough to be a turn-off. There is a bright fruit note as well, like tart cherries and a touch of banana. In the back-end, there is a very strong influence from the barrel, with huge oak notes and as it warms, you can start to get some of the bourbon.

Right away the cherries lead the flavor with their sour twang, which lends their tartness to the duration of the taste. It’s pretty acidic so that lingering note sort of muffles some of the other flavors. Compounding this is the alcohol heat that isn’t too shy to jump to the forefront at times. As in the aroma, the latter half of the flavor is dominated by the oak and bourbon, taking this beer to a completely new level that I’ve yet to experience in any other beer within this style.

Gilgamesh takes a typical Flanders, cuts the vinegar a bit, adds some bourbon barrel-aging, and comes out a winner in my book. Throughout my bottle this beer transformed multiple times, as first being somewhat high in vinegar, then very tart, then focused on the barrel.

A / $25 per 750ml bottle

Review: 2010 Archery Summit Pinot Noir Premier Cuvee Wilamette Valley

A classic Oregon Pinot, with bright cherry fruit, a hint of fizziness when freshly poured, and the suggestion of damp earth on the nose as it opens up in the glass. As Pinot Noir goes, this is a truly lovely expression of the grape: Lush, fruity, with a dash of herbs and a crisp and refreshing finish. Not overly challenging — like a beginner Burgundy — but I can’t think of a better “beginner” wine to try.

A / $40 / archerysummit.com

Review: Z Tequila

The brainchild of Pepe Zevada, a spirits industry veteran, Z Tequila is a fairly new brand of 100% agave tequilas based on Zevada’s own recipes. These tequilas use seven-to-nine year old agave plants and age the reposado and anejo in new Canadian oak barrels.

We tasted each of the three expressions extensively. All are 80 proof. Universally we had trouble with the closures: Some wouldn’t seal tightly after opening, some wouldn’t pour well. The photo below doesn’t lie, either: The bottles are simply terribly ugly. Never mind all that though, it’s what’s inside that counts. Thoughts follow.

Also known as “Pepe Z Tequila.”

Z Blanco Tequila – An unaged silver tequila, this is a really beautiful spirit. Lovely caramel notes (always surprising in an unaged tequila), matched with touches of lemon, lightly smoked wood, leather, and of course a moderate slug of agave. Amazing balance, with modest sweetness to counter the agave’s vegetal notes. Absolutely solid. A / $30

Z Reposado Tequila – Aged nine months, this pale yellow reposado offers a very similar profile to the blanco. A touch more edge, a touch more creaminess in the body. Vanilla, again, is the primary character, and it comes together in wonderful harmony with the agave. The finish is more on the chocolate front, really lush and smolderingly sweet. Like the blanco, this is simply a beautiful tequila — but it’s bigger body and slightly bolder flavor push it just that much higher. Remarkable value, too. A+ / $33

Z Anejo Tequila – After 21 months in oak, Z’s anejo is a bit overcooked. The sweet dessert flavors of vanilla and chocolate have disappeared into a surplus of raw wood and smoke — and result in a surprisingly hotter tequila with considerably more bite. In a vacuum, this wouldn’t be a bad tequila by any definition — the whiskey-like finish is particularly appealing — but compared to the masterful blanco and reposado it just isn’t in the same league. B+ / $35

pepeztequila.com

z tequila Review: Z Tequila

Review: Wines of Batasiolo

Beni di Batasiolo is based in the heart of Italy’s Piedmont region, where it makes a variety of wines from the simple to the complex and massive. We tasted four, courtesy of our friends at U.S. import company Boisset.

NV Batasiolo Moscato Rose Dolce – Pretty typical of the modern Moscato resurgence: Very sweet, low alcohol (7.5%), a combination of ripe strawberry and moderate floral notes, the latter particularly present on the nose. A bit much in the sugar department for me. B / $14

2010 Batasiolo Gavi DOCG – Brisk and fresh, a great example of how great Gavi can really be. Notes of pineapple, lemon, fresh green apple, and an acidic finish with touches of chalk. Wonderful little white, perfect for drinking solo or with dinner. A- / $15

2009 Batasiolo Sovrana Barbera d’Alba DOC – The nose is enticing with a rich earthiness, but the body doesn’t back it up. Thin, tart, and redolent with canned fruit character and a sour, gummy bear-like finish. Unpleasant at first, it improves a bit with time in the glass. C / $20

2007 Batasiolo Barolo DOCG – What a surprise — and a wonderful wine. Those expecting mega-tannic Barolo will be quieted immediately by this rich and intensely aromatic Nebbiolo-based wine, but the balance is already showing. Lots of herbal notes — rosemary and bay leaf — balance out a rich plum core, plus a touch of smoke on the end. Easy sipping, especially with dinner, and a great value for Barolo. A / $40

boissetfamilyestates.com

Review: Rums of Rhum J.M.

Along with Rhum Clement, Rhum J.M. (a sister distillery) is one of the biggest names in Martinique’s rhum agricole industry. Distilled from sugar cane juice instead of molasses, agricole has a distinctly different character than most rums you’re probably familiar with. Intense with fuel-like flavors when they’re young, agricoles often develop into remarkably complex, world-class spirits when they’ve been aged for a spell.

We finally got hold of four of J.M.’s rhums to review. Comments follow. (And be advised: While the prices below reflect 750ml bottles, you are more likely to find J.M. in one-liter bottles, with accordingly higher prices.)

Rhum J.M. Rhum Agricole Blanc  - J.M.’s white rum looks innocuous, and an idle sniff will reveal cachaca-like tones and petrol character. Take a sip, though, and you’ll find it’s bursting with tropical character: Bananas, pineapple, coconut, and a long vanilla finish. Hot as hell (in part because it’s bottled at 100 proof), but the complexity and balance in the fruit, dessert, and subtle spice flavors make it a real knockout among normally difficult white agricoles. A- / $30

Rhum J.M. Rhum Agricole Elevé Sous Bois – This is J.M.’s “gold rum,” (aka “Paille”), and the color is a perfect representation of that metal. The body is a lot like the blanc, with more vanilla brought to the forefront due to spending a full year in wood. The finish is a bit drying, though, which whisks away some of the natural fruit character you’ll find in the blanc. Most of the same components are still there, but here they take a bit of a back seat to the wood, which hasn’t come all the way to fruition yet. 100 proof. B+ / $36

Rhum J.M. Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP – Spends four years in wood, and bottled at a slightly lower 90 proof. Now that agricole funk is seriously dialed back, as this VSOP takes on some of the more traditional notes you find with aged rums made from molasses. Big caramel and vanilla, lots of heavy wood especially in the finish, along with a curious black cherry/chocolate note. I like this a lot, seems bottled at just the right time. A- / $55

Rhum J.M. Rhum Vieux Agricole 1997 – Not to be confused with the above, this vintage rum spends a minimum of 10 years in oak before being bottled. That’s crazy in a world where a rum that’s been in oak for three years is considered ancient, and J.M. shows how incredibly wise and delicious that decision can be. Intense caramel, chocolate, and vanilla on this, with barely a hint of tropical fruit and banana on the finish. A real knockout of a rum, with a long and smooth finish, silky body, and a price to match. Gorgeous stuff. 96 proof. A / $130

rhum-jm.com

B005E7A20W

Review: Dutch’s Spirits Sugar Wash Moonshine and Peach Brandy

Built atop the underground distilling and bootlegging operation of the gangster Dutch Schultz (and on family land now owned by co-founder Alex Adams), Dutch’s Spirits is a new New York-based distillery that’s attacking the spirits industry with some unexpected products — no gin or whiskey here, be warned!

We tasted Dutch’s two inaugural spirits. Thoughts on each follow.

Dutch’s Spirits Sugar Wash Moonshine – This white spirit is a tribute to Schultz’s “own hooch,” a white spirit distilled from 100% Demerara sugar in copper pot stills. I wasn’t entirely sure how to classify this oddity, since it’s technically a rum (and a rhum agricole or cachaca at that) but isn’t branded as such. It is closest in style to a Puerto Rico-style white rum, with smoothed-over flavors of vanilla and a touch of chocolate to it. There’s none, however, of those gasoline flavors or raw alcohol notes you get with most cachaca and none of the burning heat of the typical corn-based moonshine. Moderate body with a lightly floral and herbal finish. The name may be a bit baffling, but the results are impressive if you’re a rum fan and are looking for something unique. A / $28

Dutch’s Spirits Peach Brandy – Americans are simply not drinking enough peach brandy. It’s a fact. I’m not sure that Dutch’s version of it is going to change that. While the nose offers lots of fresh fruit flavors — more apricot and apple than peach — the body is not nearly sweet enough to carry the day. Deeply bitter, the fruit notes are washed under the base alcohol’s astringency, though you can tell there are some deep and lush fruit flavors and brown sugar-sweetness just dying to get out. Much better as a cocktail flavoring agent (in small quantities) than on its own. C / $42

dutchsspirits.com

Review: Marquis de Montesquiou Armagnac VSOP and XO

Montesquiou… man, that is a lot of vowels.

It is also the producer of a lot of Armagnacs. Formerly part of the Pernod family, it’s now being imported by ImpEx, repackaged, and expanding into broader U.S. distribution. We tasted both the VSOP and XO bottlings. Both are 80 proof and made from eaux de vie from Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche, Colombard, and Baco. Thoughts follow.

Marquis de Montesquiou Armagnac VSOP – Very nutty, with aromas of nougat, honey, and fresh cut grass. On the palate, flavors of chocolate malt balls, sweet apple and citrus, vanilla, caramel, and a moderate but well-balanced finish. A classic brandy, richer than young Cognacs and arguably more enjoyable. A- / $50

Marquis de Montesquiou Armagnac XO Imperial – Immediately more intense on the nose, and huge in the body, this tastes like a classic old Cognac. Really rich with smoothed fruit, marzipan, milk chocolate, more nuts, and a fantastic balance of sweet and smoldering. Exceptionally drinkable, though the price might be a bit hard for some to swallow. A / $130

impexbev.com

Review: 2010 Four Vines Naked Chardonnay Santa Barbara County

How can cult Zinfandel winery Four Vines be putting out a $12 Chardonnay? Because Four Vines sold its name (and some of its wine production) to Purple Wine Corp., which has dived right in to its new brand via its The Naked & The Willing winery in Graton, California. (Four Vines, by the way, is now known as Cypher Winery.)

So, how’s the new 4V? This Naked Chardonnay — unaged in oak barrels, just stainless steel — is really quite delicious. Rich with intense melon, fig, and crisp apple notes, it is shockingly good for a wine this affordable. Want proof that Chardonnay needs no time in oak to be perfectly drinkable? This wine has it.

Usually a wine this affordable would be made with grapes sourced from all over California, but $12 for a Chardonnay from solely Santa Barbara fruit? That’s crazy talk, mister!

A / $12 / fourvines.com

four vines naked chardonnay Review: 2010 Four Vines Naked Chardonnay Santa Barbara County

Review: Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao Ancienne Method

Triple sec or curacao are an essential ingredient in so many cocktails, and stylistically they cover a wide range of focuses. But they all tend to have one thing in common (well, besides tasting like oranges): They’re generally quite sweet.

And so it was that cocktial god David Wondrich teamed up with Cognac producer Pierre Ferrand to create a drier style of curacao. Fittingly called Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao, this spirit is meant to take the often sickly sweet stuff into a more refined direction. It is made by infusing unaged brandy with Seville orange peels; this infusion is then redistilled, blended with Cognac and spices (including star anise, more orange, and sugar), then aged in barrels for an indeterminate time (not long, I’d guess). It’s bottled at 80 proof.

The resulting spirit is quite impressive. To say it’s not sweet would be a lie. This is, after all, still a triple sec, where sweet oranges are the primary character of the nose and the palate. Lots of vanilla and nut character in there too, with a particularly buttery body — though I didn’t pick up on the anise in the blend.

Overall it’s a wonderful curacao that would add a delightful spin to any cocktail and is also quite delicious consumed on its own.

A / $25 / cognacferrand.com

pierre ferrand Dry Curacao Review: Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao Ancienne Method

Review: Red Brick Old Stock Ale and Wee Heavy

Brewing out of Atlanta, Georgia, Red Brick offers the Brick Mason series alongside its year-round core brands. This series focuses on higher abv beers with more unique ingredients (such as the smoked vanilla beans in Vanilla Gorilla). This week, I was able to get the chance to review two beers from this series.

Red Brick’s Old Stock Ale starts as a blend of three different ales — one that’s been oak-aged, one that’s been heavily malted, and one brewed with citrus and star anise. These beers mix together to create a transparent, albeit dark, cherry color. The nose is complex and has a lot of different components to it, but the ones that pop the most are the ones that I wasn’t expecting to see in this style of beer. Rather than the malts driving the aroma, it is more sugar-coated fruits that are the focus. Orange peel, plums, and raisins are the most noticeable, and a kick of alcohol astringency draws this into an almost Belgian-esque territory.

A bittersweet cocoa component appears on the palate that isn’t there in the nose. The fruits return here again, especially the orange, but they are kept in check and now they enlist the ranks the star anise. Encompassing all of these characteristics is a mild, toasted oak note that is more of an additional complexity rather than a full-fledged flavor, but it adds more depth to an already loaded taste. As it warms, a surprisingly potent punch of vanilla arrives which isn’t present at all at lower temperatures. The one drawback to this beer is the amount of alcohol heat in this; although I’m not a total stranger to the style, the alcohol just didn’t play well with the orange for me. But to be honest, that is some fine nitpicking, as the rest of this beer is a unique twist on an Old Stock ale. 7.9% abv. B / $3 per 12oz bottle

The newest entry into Red Brick’s Brick Mason series is its Wee Heavy. Normally, Scottish ales have a signature, strong caramel note to it and may use a specialized type of yeast, but the first thing I immediately noticed from the aroma in this is the addition of peated malt so that you really get that Scotch connection. It’s smoky, salty, and has a twinge of iodine in it, and then the caramel comes in to give it a rather robust, almost herbal, nose.

In the taste, the caramel does play a bigger role and there’s also a slightly spicy note from the hops. The peat is still the biggest factor, sweeping in about midway through and carrying the flavors to new levels. The smokiness is prominent, but there’s also an oceanic angle to this as well, with some saltwater, seaweed, and iodine, all drawing from the peated malt. The biggest and most unique advantage that Red Brick’s Wee Heavy has over its competition is the peaty smokiness. Not only does this help curb the sweetness that is usually prevalent in this style, but it helps it live up to the Scotch Ale name. 6.5% abv. A / $3 per 12oz bottle

Review: 2009 Chamisal Vineyards Pinot Noirs

South of Paso Robles, north of Santa Maria, even further north of Santa Barbara, Edna Valley is a region near San Luis Obispo, where a handful of Pinot-focused wineries can be found. Here Chamisal, a smaller winery that’s part of the Crimson Wine Group (which owns Pine Ridge and Archery Summit, among others), produces a variety of wines, including the two Pinot Noirs we tasted here.

2009 Chamisal Vineyards Pinot Noir Edna Valley – A classic SoCal Pinot, this wine is at once simple and full of varietal character. Spiced-up cherry jam, a touch of leather and cedar box, this is a wine that’s got tons of character without having too overbearing of a body. A / $35

2009 Chamisal Vineyards Pinot Noir “Califa Selection” Edna Valley – The reserve bottling, this is richer and tougher, a big and chewy wine that strays somewhat from its Pinot roots. Monstrous to the point of being a bit flabby, the wine’s fruit turns toward prune and raisin flavors, obscuring some of this wine’s more herbal character. B+ / $55

chamisalvineyards.com

Book Review: Drinkology Beer

drinkology beer 300x300 Book Review: Drinkology BeerAs lackluster as I found the first Drinkology book to be, I didn’t have high expectations for this treatise on all things beer. Much to my surprise, it’s a thorough, engaging, and well-written book about the beer world, especially if (like me) beer is not you normal beverage of choice.

There’s really no facet of the beermaking and beerdrinking process that goes untouched in Drinkology Beer: A Book About the Brew, and yet author James Waller presents this material in a way that’s easy to skim and digest piecemeal.

The origins of beer are dutifully recounted, but the book’s largest and most useful section is a glossary of every beer style known to man. Whiskey fans get off easy in comparison: We only have to understand five or six basic whiskey styles to have a good handle on the basics. Beer nuts face literally dozens of brewing styles and end up with beers that range from nearly clear to black as night. It’s an overwhelming task keeping it all straight, but Waller keeps you on the right path with descriptions ranging from how rauchbier is made to why light beer is “light” to the finer points of how malt liquor came into its current reputation.

While sections on drinking games and beer in the movies seem out of place and frivolous, Waller even gets into the homebrew world with a tale (courtesy of pal Tony Moore) of a rather disastrous attempt at making his own IPA. Like the rest of the book, it’s fun and entertaining… and yet you learn a thing or two.

A / $18 / [BUY IT HERE]

Review: Belvedere Intense Unfiltered 80 Vodka

Is “intense” something people normally want from their vodka? Made from single-estate Dankowskie Diamond rye in Poland, Belvedere distills this vodka four times then bottles it unfiltered for your happy consumption. (Note: There is also a Belvedere Intense that is filtered; but this version typically goes by the nickname of “Belvedere Unfiltered,” even though the word “Intense” appears much larger on the label.)

As vodkas go, it’s a real hit: A combination of the best characteristics a vodka connoisseur could want. First, there’s that slug of medicinal character, spicy on the nose and Old World in inspiration. Touches of pine needles and tree sap on the nose, too.

The body reveals all manner of nuance beyond that introduction: Salted nuts, nougat, and very light dessert character. It is sweet without being overly so, just enough to balance out the medicinal astringency on the top notes. The body is creamy and mouth-filling; this is easy-drinking stuff, even at room temperature.

The finish is lovely — a touch short for a vodka this rich — but inviting and refreshing. All in all: It’s an irresistible winner.

A / $40 / belvederevodka.com

belvedere unfiltered Review: Belvedere Intense Unfiltered 80 Vodka

Review: Karlsson’s Gold Gammel Svensk Rod 2008 Single Vintage, Single Potato Vodka

I say Celina, Solist, and Sankta Thora. What comes to mind?

If you said Nordic maritime vessels, you are unfortunately incorrect. The answer: They are all white potato varieties grown in Sweden – and used in the production of Karlsson’s Gold vodka.

I reviewed Karlsson’s Gold early in my Drinkhacking career, and found it a bit overwhelming to what was, at the time, a relatively novice palate. Recently I sat down with the vodka’s brand manager, Mia Ekelund, daughter of founder Peter Ekelund, to discuss the young brand and its new release: A single vintage, single-potato varietal, very limited release of its vodka.

Founded just a few years ago by Ekelund and master blender Borje Karlsson, both founding members of the Absolut Vodka team, Karlsson’s Gold is an extremely unique vodka in a field of relatively sweet, flavorless spirits: Distilled just from a blend of seven potatoes a single time in a column still and bottled unfiltered, it leaves behind an awful lot of flavor that other vodkas would have washed away.

At this tasting I had the chance to delve into the past with Ms. Ekelund, considering four single vintage, single potato spirits the company created in years past, leading up to the 2008 single vintage that is being released.

We started with a 2004 vodka made from Solist potatoes, comparing it with a 2006 Solist vodka and a 2004 vodka made from Minerva potatoes. Shockingly, these vodkas were amazingly different. The Solist 2004 earthy and dark in flavor, the Solist 2006 (a rainy year) sharp and lightly sweet, and the Minerva 2004 somewhere between the two. This led to another vodka made from Gammel Svensk Rod potatoes in 2006. This slightly red-skinned potato was a clear favorite, hugely earthy, lightly sweet, and possessing a lovely, rich body that the other varieties were lacking.

It was easy to see why Karlsson’s chose this variety for its 2008 Gammel Svensk Rod vodka, which is being formally released in April in New York and California. Just 1980 bottles are being made available, and if you’re a vodka fan you need to track one down: This was a vast improvement over the 2006 version, full of mushroom and roasted greens character, but balanced with honey and nougat on the finish. Great balance altogether, it’s one of the richest vodkas I’ve experienced in recent years. A / $80

Compared to the original Karlsson’s Gold – a blend of Solist, Marine, Princess, Hamlet, Celine, Sankta Thora, and Gammel Svensk Rod potatoes – I was still impressed. Similarities abounded, but the standard release has less nuance, with more of a nutty character and some citrus – both lemon and orange – on the tongue. Today, I’m finding this quite an enjoyable vodka, beefy but loaded with drinkable elements. Updated rating: A- / $40

karlssonsvodka.com

karlssons gold 2008 single vintage vodka Review: Karlsson’s Gold Gammel Svensk Rod 2008 Single Vintage, Single Potato Vodka

Review: Breckenridge Vodka and Bourbon

You don’t have to be in Kentucky to make Bourbon. Breckenridge Distillery is found high in the mountains of Colorado, where it creates whiskey and vodka at 9600 feet (it claims to be the world’s highest), using Rocky Mountain meltwater to craft its spirits. We tasted both. Thoughts follow.

Breckenridge Vodka – Distilled from grain and bottled at 80 proof, this is a nicely clean and traditional vodka, with a nose of medicinal spirit and a touch of cedar needles. The body is quite a bit more easygoing than you’d think — a medicinal (but quite pleasant) core, almost burnt sugar/creme brulee sweetness, and hints of evergreen on the finish. Great balance, with a lovely, creamy body. This is a fantastic vodka, and I’m not just saying that because of the clever, lift ticket-inspired bottle hanger. A / $27

Breckenridge Bourbon – From a mash bill of 56% yellow corn, 38% green rye, and 6% malted barley, this Bourbon is aged for at least two years and bottled at 86 proof. Though there’s plenty of color in the whiskey, the body is very light, an indicator of this spirit’s young age. Despite the slightly elevated (get it?) proof level, the overall impression in the mouth is a little watery and thin. It’s biggish on woody and caramel notes, with rye-heavy grain following close behind. Not a whole lot showing beyond that. If I didn’t know better, I’d think I was drinking a perfectly capable but young, workaday whiskey from any old distillery in Kentucky, not artisanal business from the Rocky Mountain High… B+ / $55

Breckenridge Bourbon 2013 Update – Recipes change. Aging regimens change. Companies evolve. I’m not sure if Breckenridge has been tinkering, but tasting a fresh batch of Breckenridge in March 2013 I’m getting different notes. Still strongly woody on the nose, it offers hints of gunpowder and light vanilla notes. On the body, lots of sherry character, a big orange bomb backed up by wood notes, caramel, and hints of molasses. I’m getting a bigger body this time out, nothing I’d describe as thin or simple. Definitely a worthwhile Bourbon — whether it’s the whiskey that’s changed or my palate. A

breckenridgedistillery.com [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS!]

Brewery Spotlight: Epic Brewing Company (Part I)

This week I’m going to start a new series of entries called “Brewery Spotlight.” These posts will look at multiple beers from a brewery’s portfolio with the hope of comparing, contrasting, and pointing out characteristics that are common among different beers, either because of water, house yeast, or preferential hop strains by the brewers.

Our inaugural spotlight will focus on Epic Brewing Company out of Salt Lake City. While Utah isn’t exactly a hotbed for all things alcoholic, you wouldn’t realize that by looking at its offerings. Encompassing three different product lines titled Classic, Elevated, and Exponential, Epic Brewing’s beers cover an extremely wide style range of beers and even some unique twists!

Brainless on Peaches combines the yeasty effervescence of a Belgian with the oakiness of wine, Brainless of Peaches starts as a golden ale before receiving a dose of peach puree. After fermentation, Epic Brewing funnels the beer into French Chardonnay casks from Sawtooth Winery for aging. I could recognize most of the base notes and the beneficial qualities of the peach and barrel-aging when I smelled this, but none of it exactly jumped out at me. Sugary peaches, Belgian yeast, oak, grape, and white wine all vie for position with bit of grain and breadiness to go around as well.

Much like the nose, the flavor doesn’t have one particular note that resonates above the rest. Even before the peaches hit I got a grainy yeast flavor, probably from the champagne yeast, which helps with the body but isn’t exactly a tasty flavor. Even the peach isn’t a front-runner, as it is content to sit back, reveling in its sweetness. The barrel is pretty noticeable, though, as the oak is subtle yet distinct, along with the chardonnay grapes which combine surprisingly well with the champagne yeast and has the added benefit of imparting a wonderful body and mouthfeel to this beer. B- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Brainless on Cherries has a similar life story to Brainless on Peaches in that it uses the same base Belgian golden ale base and undergoes secondary fermentation and aging within French Chardonnay casks. Obviously, this version substitutes the peach puree for cherries. This has the additional effect of giving it a nice, ruby appearance. However, similar to Brainless on Peaches, the fruit doesn’t take over the way I wanted it to, as the cherries give a pleasant tartness, but the smell is a combination of oak, cherries, grain, and even a touch of vanilla.

Usually when you think of cherries added to a beer, you expect a somewhat sour flavor,  but don’t be surprised when this doesn’t taste like it. The cherry comes across more as earthy, as if the skin was mixed in with the puree. I actually think the Chardonnay grapes are the most distinguishable flavor in this beer, along with the barrel. As in the nose, I’m getting a fair amount of grain and malt, but unlike Peaches, not a ton of alcohol.  B- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Hop Syndrome Lager is one of Epic Brewing’s summer seasonals and is brewed with the expectations of quenching thirsts while still delivering on the promise of big flavor and bold hops (unlike some lagers out there…). While the appearance isn’t too far out of the ordinary for a lager, consisting of a pale straw body, it does build a giant, clumpy head that lasts almost as long as the beer does. Not only does this look great, it gives the beer an ample springboard to release its aromatics. Epic Brewing got the name of this beer just right, as the nose is full of pungent hops that run the gamut from floral to spicy to fruity. I got a lot of black pepper, pear, and apple, and as strange as it sounds, even a touch of cinnamon.

On the palate Hop Syndrome is a little tamer, as a floral grassiness takes over that would make this beer seem like the perfect “lawnmower” beer, but it’s also complex enough to sit down with to enjoy the flavors. The fruits tend to fall away a little here as the hops become more bitter, but a kick of lemon zest helps cut through it.  B+ / $8 per 22oz bottle

The Sour Apple Saison is a unique twist on the Saison style. Typically classified as yeasty, grassy, and dry, saisons can also bring notes of funk or spiciness. Epic Brewing crafts Sour Apple Saison in the latter fashion and loads it up with more kinds of spice than I have ever encountered within the style. The beer is officially brewed with coriander, grains of paradise, anise, nutmeg, cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, and ginger, and nearly all of these come across on the nose. Immediately after pouring, I could smell this beer and the copious amount of spices present. Coriander and ginger are easily the most aromatic of the group, with pinches of nutmeg and clove following. In a first for a saison, I actually am not getting a whole lot of grain or yeast in the nose, as the spices carry this from start to finish.

Despite the name, the taste doesn’t really have a whole lot of sourness to it… in fact I am hard-pressed to even say it’s tart. It does have a bit of apple to it which isn’t so apparent in the nose, but again, much of the flavor is derived from the spices. Here, the cinnamon seems to relax in favor of star anise, and the ginger is just as prominent as before. I am also getting more of the typical saison notes in the form of yeast and grain breadiness. I couldn’t really discern much of the other spices, but that’s probably for the best, as too much spice would’ve derailed this beer.  A- / $12 per 22oz bottle

Smoked & Oaked is the off-spring of a Belgian beer after mating with a Colorado whiskey barrel. Even the appearance looks daunting, as a thick liquid with a small head slowly fills the glass as it’s poured. The nose brings a lot of different characteristics and it takes a few minutes to actually digest what they are. A mild yet forward smokiness comes out first, mixing with the whiskey to help cut some of the sweetness that wants to explode. This gives the effect of imparting a strong sweetness without it being cloying, so the yeast and caramel can develop without fear of overburdening the senses.

Epic hit the nail on the head by using adjectives for the name of this beer, because the flavors all relate to the smoked and oaked aspect. The initial tastes are almost exclusively smoked malts and wood which makes it enjoyable especially during the colder months as I just think of a warm, smoldering fireplace. There is a logical transition here as the whiskey brings a sweetness that leads to the more sweet malts and yeast, so you get a smoky, alcoholic, sweet fruit quality that exudes an alcohol-soaked raisin quality. All the while it is smooth and balanced so that one facet of Smoked & Oaked doesn’t define it, but rather it’s the sum of the parts.   A / $12 per 22oz bottle

epicbrewing.com

Review: Tillen Farms Garnishes

At long last high-quality Grenadine is widely available. (If you’re buying Rose’s — which is just red corn syrup — you’re missing out.)

But who mourns the death of the Maraschino cherry? Once a reference to a Croatian marasca cherry preserved in maraschino liqueur, Maraschino cherries are now chemical-laden monstrosities that remain a staple of even high-end bars.

Hey, you don’t have to have loads of FD&C Red #40 in your Maraschinos. Check out Washington-based Tillen Farms’ no-dye, no-corn syrup cherries, which we consider here alongside three other garnishes from these artisan producers. All of these products are alcohol-free.

UPDATE: Tillen Farms is offering all Drinkhacker readers 25% off on all purchases. Just use promo code “DRINKHACKER” at checkout on the tillenfarms.com website.

Tillen Farms Merry Maraschino Cherries – It’s hard to believe that these bright red orbs contain no red dye. Sweetened only with cane sugar, these are traditional Maraschinos: Very sugary (and sticky as hell) with just a dusting of fruit flavor underneath. There’s more depth here, though, than in the the typical Maraschino, and more importantly, no nasty, chemical aftertaste. A- / $7 per 14 oz. jar

Tillen Farms Bada Bing Cherries – When you’re ready to upgrade your cherry, jump for these bad boys: Real (and large) Bing cherries in syrup. The effect is much like a brandied cherry, without the alcohol. Rich, earthy, and a bit sour, these cherries are still plenty sweet enough to give a Shirley Temple a bit more pop. Great for a Manhattan, even better for muddled cocktails when you really want to amp up the flavor. A / $7 per 13.5 oz. jar

Tillen Farms Hot & Spicy Crispy Beans – These pickled green beans are obviously of high quality, with nary a blemish. Long and authentic, these string beans are pickled with lots of dill, garlic, and red pepper flakes. They pack a spicy punch, but not overbearingly so. Decent green bean flavor, too, but there’s not too much of it — which is probably for the best. B+ / $7 per 12 oz. jar

Tillen Farms Crispy Asparagus – Again, very high-quality, thin, and crispy asparagus spears are pickled with plenty of garlic. These are mild, however — a spicy version is available, too — and there’s a good balance between the vegetal character and the pickling spices, but the overall results are distinctly asparagus. Not bad at all, assuming, as with the beans, you’re using these in a Bloody Mary. One of the company’s two original products, dating back to 1984. B+ / $7 per 12 oz. jar

tillenfarms.com

tillen farms Bada Bing cherries Review: Tillen Farms Garnishes

Review: L.A. Burdick Robert Burns Collection

What do you give a whisky lover as a romantic gift? Well, you can give him whisky… or you can give him whisky-infused chocolates.

Recently it was suggested (or rather I was accused) of enjoying whisky confections more than the whisky itself (not true, I swear), and reader John Bratincevic turned me on to this collection of Scotch-infused chocolates released for Robert Burns’ birthday (January 25) from New Hampshire-based L.A. Burdick. The company was kind enough to send a sample box my way, and I’m going to tell you, if you can get them (they’re limited release confections), do it.

These aren’t those cheap, foil-wrapped Cointreau and Kahlua cordials your grandma used to give you once you were in your 30s. This is the real deal: A 1/2 pound box of truffles and bonbons flavored with Lagavulin, Macallan, Talisker, Springbank, Highland Park, and Glenfarclas — some of my favorite names in Scotch whisky.

The assortment spans 7 different items (only one is an unnamed “honey whiskey”), with about four to six pieces of each. Picking a favorite is tough. They are all wonderful. But if pressed, I’d go with the Highland Park (dark ganache with scent of grapefruit) and, surprisingly, the Talisker (currant-hazelnut ganache), both of which are complemented beautifully by the hints of fruit added to the ganache.

You can really taste the whisky in all of these confections — though the still let the chocolate shine through — and the bonbons are small enough to allow you to eat three or four without feeling disgusting afterward. All of these truffles are fabulous solo,  and are even better with whisky — either their namesakes or something else.

As I write this, the collection is only available as part of a combo with a Lunar New Year collection or as a set of two 1/2 lb. boxes. Do yourself a favor and pick one up either for yourself or for someone you love.

A / $31 / burdickchocolate.com

burdick robert burns collection chocolates scotch Review: L.A. Burdick Robert Burns Collection