Category Archives: Rated A

Review: 2010 Vineyard 29 Cru Cabernet Sauvignon

 Review: 2010 Vineyard 29 Cru Cabernet SauvignonI’m an avowed fan of Vineyard 29, but the winery’s stuff is so hard to find that I rarely get a chance to experience its wines. How fun to get a bottle of the 2010 “Cru” release, a Napa Valley Bordeaux-style blend made up of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 4% Malbec, 3% Petite Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.

It’s a perfect little wine, wonderfully balanced and drinking shockingly well just 7 months after in bottle. Brilliant cassis, black currants, and plenty of wood, but not overdone. The Port-like raisin character is taken to the perfect level — not jammy and not syrupy, despite the big 14.8% alcohol level. Shades of menthol, violets, and dark chocolate throughout. Great wine from a vintage that’s otherwise shaping up erratically for California.

A / $54 / vineyard29.com

Review: Scotch Malt Whisky Society November 2012 Outturn

Another five-whisky month from the SMWS. Thoughts follow on each spirit in the outturn — easily the best month in recent memory for the SMWS.

SMWS Cask 16.32 – 10 year old Glenturret from the Highlands – Lightly smoky Highlands whisky finished in (refill) Port pipes? I never would have thought of the combination, but it works well here. The nose comes across as more sherry-like than Port, orange peel is heavy but it offers dark chocolate character, too. Some salty, briny notes on the palate quickly lead into lots of dried fruit — plus a big baking rack full of clove and cinnamon, pancakes with syrup, and Mexican coffee on the finish… the Port showing its face a bit in the end. Amazing depth and balance — much more than I would have thought possible from a 10 year old malt and surprisingly easy-drinking even at full cask strength. This is one whisky that brings everything together in a remarkable way, offering more and more with each sip. Wish I had more. Distilled 2001, 114.2 proof, 120 bottles allocated for U.S. A / $95

SMWS Cask 25.63 – 21 year old Rosebank from the Lowlands – Ultra-pale… who’d have thought this was 21 years old? It’s hard to follow 16.32, but this one does: Bright apple on the nose, with lots of citrus (Meyer lemons?) to back it up. Sugar and spice on the palate, a big rush of marshmallows and nougat, with touches of fresh black pepper, incense, and cedar box notes. The long finish is warming and lush. It’s hot stuff at nearly 60% alcohol, but drinks like a dream. Distilled 1990, 119.6 proof, 108 bottles allocated for U.S. A / $145

SMWS Cask 106.18 – 27 year old Cardhu from Speyside – Yet another winner. Gorgeous nose just from opening the bottle. Creamy orangesicles, heather, and marshmallow aromas lead to more of the same on the tongue, with plenty of citrus, tropical fruits, and a touch of sandalwood. Hints of grain flicker on and off in the finish. This Cardhu is simpler than the previous two whiskys, but still definitively worthwhile. Feels hotter than the 105 proof would indicate. Water is recommended. Distilled 1984, 105.2 proof, 78 bottles allocated for U.S. A- / $175

SMWS Cask 128.3 – 5 year old Penderyn from Wales – Quiet on the nose, with little hint of the sugar and fruit rush beneath. Take a sip and an explosion of flavors erupt — like a fruit salad filled with cherries, apple, oranges, and banana. Some cereal notes follow, with more dessert characteristics — pie crust and light toffee notes — on the finish. Lots going on, and a bit muddied. A few more years in cask might have brought the balance into focus. It’s a bit of an eye-opener for now. Distilled 2006, 122.6 proof, 78 bottles allocated for U.S. B+ / $85

SMWS Cask 129.1 – 5 year old Kilchoman from Islay – How exciting to get the first privately-bottled Kilchoman to sample! Modest smokiness on the nose, with citrus hints. Similar on the body to most other Kilchomans I’ve experienced — modest smokiness, backed with ample sugar. Worth a look if you want to try Kilchoman but can’t find the distillery bottling. Distilled 2006, 120.4 proof, 114 bottles allocated for U.S. B+ / $85

smwsa.com

Review: 2010 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay Napa Valley

2010 chateau montelena chardonnay 81x300 Review: 2010 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay Napa ValleyYes, this is the wine. The one that in 1976 beat down all the French Burgundies in the famous Judgement of Paris with its 1973 vintage Chardonnay.

It’s easy to see the charms in this wine. It is fresh and fruity, full of big apple, pear and lots of lemon notes. It is both creamy and plenty acidic, lacking the buttery overload of so many California Chardonnays. The finish brings on a distinct vanilla character that works really well with the apple, echoing a sort of caramel apple flavor that is perfect for fall festivities — either with your roasted bird or your dessert course.

A winner, ready to go now.

A / $50 / montelena.com

Review: 2009 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignons

This Stags Leap-based winery (Lede is pronounced “lady”) produces just Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon — and fetches a pretty penny for them. The 2009 Cabernets — in two versions — are now hitting the market. Thoughts follow.

Continue reading “Review: 2009 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignons” »

Review: Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water

Fever-Tree has a richly deserved reputation as the producer of some of the finest artisanal mixers in the business. Its Indian Tonic Water, Ginger Beer, and Ginger Ale are all top notch.

Now Fever-Tree is expanding its tonic water portfolio with a new spin: Mediterranean Tonic Water, which is made “using the most authentic strain of quinine and the finest lemon oils from Sicily as well as thyme, geranium, rosemary and mandarin [from the Mediterranean], we have created a delicious new taste experience.” I compared the new product (blue label) to the original “Premium Indian Tonic Water” (gold label).  (Fever-Tree also sells a light Indian Tonic Water and a Bitter Lemon (aka Lemon Tonic) product.)

Continue reading “Review: Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic Water” »

Bourbon Battle: Booker’s vs. Baker’s

Booker’s and Baker’s can often be found side by side on the back bar, and even seasoned Bourbon fans are apt to confuse them. This is understandable. Allow me to explain.

For starters, there’s the name thing. Baker’s. Booker’s. You might think one was attempting to mislead drinkers by tricking them with a sound-alike, but these are actually both products of the same company: Jim Beam.

Baker’s and Booker’s are two of the four Bourbons in Beam’s “Small Batch” series. The other two are Knob Creek and, continuing the confusing panoply of B’s, Basil Hayden’s. But at least Knob and Basil look immediately different on the shelf. Baker’s and Booker’s are both even bottled in Burgundy-style wine bottles and sealed with black wax. The only easy distinguishing factor is the label: Baker’s has a giant B, Booker’s has a handwritten-esque script on the label. Helpful if you’re looking at the bar. Not so much if you’re reading a menu.

Beam was kind enough to send both whiskeys for our evaluation and comparison. Here’s how these two are both alike and different.

bookers bourbon 102x300 Bourbon Battle: Bookers vs. BakersBooker’s Bourbon is touted as “the highest grade bourbon made by” master distiller Booker Noe at Jim Beam — hence the name “Booker’s.” Noe died in 2004, but his spirit clearly lives on. There’s also a monster statue of him on the Jim Beam grounds that you can check out if you go to visit. Batch age and proof of this uncut, barrel-strength whiskey will vary, but mine (C05-A-12), at 7 years, 5 months old and 128.5 proof, is typical of the brand.

The Bourbon is hot. Though the bottle tag suggests drinking it neat and uncut, this is folly. A healthy splash of water helps Booker’s show beyond the burn. Wood is the primary character here, hefty, chunky, and powerful like a lumberyard. It’s big on the nose and the body, and it takes a good amount of time sipping and savoring for this to fade. Eventually you dig out Booker’s finer nuances. Vanilla and dark chocolate — almost a Mexican chocolate with touches of cinnamon — which rise up on the finish as you finish your first glass. Some fruitiness here — plums, raisins — is in the mix as well. All in all a solid Bourbon, though a bit burly I think for my tastes. B+ / $57

bakers bourbon 100x300 Bourbon Battle: Bookers vs. BakersBaker’s Bourbon is stated at 7 years old and a considerably mellower 107 proof. The Baker in question is Baker Beam, a grandnephew of Jim Beam himself. The twist here involves a special yeast used in the fermentation process, proprietary to Baker’s.

Results: A considerably more mellow whiskey than Booker’s. Beam suggests Baker’s is a Bourbon for Cognac enthusiasts, and I think the distillery is onto something with that. There is lovely sweetness here, plenty of vanilla but also rich chocolate pudding, nutmeg, and fruitcake character. Really a gorgeous Bourbon and my hands-down favorite of the duo. A / $47

smallbatch.com

Review: Square One Vodka

Oddly enough, we’ve reviewed all of Square One’s flavored vodkas but never its straight, unflavored spirit, until now. Made in Idaho from 100% organic rye grown in North Dakota, this vodka has none of the funky rawness you might expect from a rye-based spirit, but is rather quite neutral and lightly sweet at first sip.

As the vodka develops in the glass it reveals more nuance, with more brown sugar character, honey, and vague pastoral elements — more amber waves of grain than the grist mill. Versatile and well-rounded, it’s an easy winner in a sea of just-OK vodkas.

A / $47 / squareoneorganicspirits.com

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Square One vodka Review: Square One Vodka

Review: The Balvenie DoubleWood 17 Year Old

The latest whisky to enter the Balvenie core range is this number, a 17 year old version of the distillery’s classic 12 Year Old DoubleWood.

Like the original DoubleWood, this expression starts in Bourbon casks (for 17 years) then spends 3 to 6 months in Oloroso sherry casks. Yeah, “DoubleWood” is just a fancy way of saying “Sherry finished,” but the intercapped W looks cool.

New west coast brand ambassador Lorne Cousin brought a pre-release bottle by — that’s him below (ask him about his previous career as a professional bagpiper!) — and we sipped and gabbed about this really well-done whisky for longer than we probably should have. Beautiful honey on the nose transforms into nougat on the tongue. The sherry influence is unmistakeable here, along with touches of heather and hints of the whisky’s barley origins. The finish: apple pie, with a focus on the caramel. The body is just perfect, oily but not mouth-coating.

It’s tough to say but this might be my favorite regular expression of Balvenie to date. Arriving this October, only in the U.S. to start. (Take that, Europe!)

86 proof.

A / $130 / thebalvenie.com

Tasting Olson Ogden’s 2012 Lineup with Proprieter John Ogden

After seeing the praises heaped upon Olson Ogden’s most recent vintages, I finally pestered proprietor John Ogden into getting a look at them firsthand. In fact, he invited us over for dinner and a tasting, where we walked through all six of the winery’s current releases, all 2009 releases save for the lone white wine.

There’s not a dud among them, starting with the well-aged but super-fruity 2008 Olson Ogden Marsanne Margaret’s Mandate (named after, and presumably mandated by, John’s wife). Two Pinots and a blended red, Milla’s Blend, named after John’s daughter (consisting of Syrah, Counoise, Pinot Noir, and Roussanne), followed. Then came the winery’s signature bottlings, two Syrahs.

The matched pairs of Pinot and Syrah both showed how the same grape can express itself so differently depending on the growing region and winemaking style. Olson Ogden is typically hands-off with its wines, and here the Manchester Ridge Pinot showed so much power compared to the more delicate and restrained Alder Springs Pinot, even though both came from Mendocino. Similar story in Syrah, though here the Unti Dry Creek Valley bottling was classic and lightly smoky, with the Alder Springs showing more bright fruit up front.

Here are some more detailed thoughts on my favorite wines of the night. Give these a try!

2009 Olson Ogden Pinot Noir Manchester Ridge – A bold, classic style Pinot, with big black cherry notes, chocolate, and touches of olives. The finish wanders toward semi-sweet territory, with more berry flavors — blueberry and strawberry, especially. A / $55

2009 Olson Ogden Syrah Alder Springs - Gorgeous nose of blackberries and a touch of smoke, with deep leather and tobacco notes. Big body, with a long finish. Lovely balance between berry notes and deep, savory elements. A / $65

olsonogdenwines.com

Review: Plantation 3 Stars White Rum

Plantation is known for its double-aged, high-end rums from all over the Caribbean. So it comes as a surprise to find the company producing its first ever white rum.

Called three stars because the blend is mixed from rums from Barbados, Trinidad, and Jamaica. And rest assured, this isn’t straight off the still. Unaged rum from Barbados and Jamaica is blended with three-year-old Trinidad rum and 12-year-old Jamaica rum (yes, 12 years!), before being filtered back to white. It’s commonplace to age rum a year or two, then filter it, before releasing it as white rum, but having 12-year-old spirit in the mix is unheard of.

This rum is extremely sugar-forward, a monstrously sweet rum that leaves delicacy behind. Big tropical notes — mango and especially banana — hit you after the raw sugar cane fades, and that old Jamaican rum, pot-distilled for sure, brings a touch of hoary funk to the finish. Some citrus notes laced throughout. Smooth but with a kick, this is a premium white rum with lots of cocktail versatility.

82.4 proof. Launches this month.

A / $24 (one liter bottle) / plantationrum

Plantation 3 Stars rum Review: Plantation 3 Stars White Rum

 

Review: Scotch Malt Whisky Society September 2012 Outturn

Another outturn from SMWS, this one including my first grain whisky sample from SMWS, covering September 2012.

SMWS Cask 2.81 – 15 year old Glenlivet from Speyside – Blazing Glenlivet that’s turned out from first-fill sherry butts. (It’s unclear how long the whisky spends in the sherry casks, but based on the deep Bourbon-brown color, it’s clearly a long while.) Rum raisin is on the SMWS tasting notes and it was the first thing that came to mind, a cinnamon-infused Christmas cake with plenty of orange-fueled sherry to back it up. Gorgeous whisky, though it doesn’t stray far from dessert tones. A few drops of water helps immensely. Distilled 1996, 119.8 proof, 210 bottles allocated for U.S. A / $120

SMWS Cask 23.72 – 9 year old Bruichladdich from Islay – Big, sweet, barbecue character, smoky and sugary all at once. Finished in refill sherry butts, and bottled ultra-hot. Water is a big help, and don’t be shy with it, which helps coax out some coconut, toast, and chewy hay characteristics. Really quite good for such a a young whisky. Distilled 2002, 132.8 proof, 90 bottles allocated for U.S. B+ / $90

SMWS Cask 125.48 - 12 year old Glenmorangie from the Highlands – Woody, woody, woody. Not in a bad way, more in a Bourbon way. Some citrus, along with malty cereal notes and a finish that offers nutty, almond-heavy character. Warming and well-balanced, even at bottle strength. Distilled 1998, 104.2 proof, 150 bottles allocated for U.S. A- / $110

SMWS Cask G1.8 – 21 year old grain whisky from North British Distillery in Edinburgh – A different animal, and clearly not single malt from the get-go. There’s a big butterscotch and lemon mix on the nose, but sipping takes things in a hugely new direction. It starts with brown butter character that delves soon into intensely herbal notes — licorice, with an almost amaro-like character that goes on and on, intensifying as the finish lingers. Tons happening here. Add water to improve the balance a bit, and mellow out the heat. Distilled 1989, 125.8 proof, 60 bottles allocated for U.S. B / $145

smwsa.com

SMWS september 2012 Review: Scotch Malt Whisky Society September 2012 Outturn

Review: Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch Bourbon 2012 Edition

We just wrote about Four Roses’ 2012 Limited Edition Single Barrel release, now its 2012 Limited Edition Small Batch is hitting shelves. This cask strength whiskey is batched from casks containing four of Four Roses’ vaunted 10 recipes, 12-year-old OBSK, a 12-year-old OESK, an 11-year-old OBSV, and the centerpiece, a 17-year-old OBSV. By comparison, last year’s oldest whiskey included in the blend was 13 years old, so there’s some really old stock in this one.

Lots of flavor in this Bourbon, starting with a surprising surfeit of fruit. Cherry and peach are on the nose, then big on the palate when you take a sip. Chocolate and cedar wood character come along soon after. The finish is long and lasting, with hints of apple in that chocolate. Think Nutella as a snack after school. Er, after work. The finish has plenty of heat, but even at 115 proof, it’s perfectly drinkable without water, a testament to the depth and power within.

All told this is one of 4R’s best Limited Edition Small Batch releases in recent years (if not the best), rich but not overpowering, with a good balance of sweet, savory, and all-around goodness.

115 proof sample (actual bottling proof may vary). 4,000 bottles produced.

A / $90 / fourroses.us

four roses 2012 small batch limited edeition Review: Four Roses Limited Edition Small Batch Bourbon 2012 Edition

Review: 2008 Knights Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley

Knights Valley (no apostrophe!) is part of the far north of Sonoma County in California. Not historically known for Cabernet Sauvignon, Knights Bridge nonetheless grows a super-premium Cab here. This 2008 is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and spends 28 months in French oak.

A very rich (14.5% alcohol) wine, this Cab offers heavy fruit character, deep cassis notes, some cherry, and lots of underlying secondary notes. A touch of leather, cedar box, and a crystal clear vanilla note on the finish. Give this young wine a half hour or so of air before drinking — to let some of the sweeter, fruity notes mellow out, exposing the more sultry backbone underneath.

A / $115 / knightsbridgewinery.com

knights bridge cabernet sauvignon Review: 2008 Knights Bridge Cabernet Sauvignon Knights Valley

Book Review: The PDT Cocktail Book

pdt cocktail book 196x300 Book Review: The PDT Cocktail BookPDT is a Manhattan speakeasy (behind a hot dog joint in the East Village) and is known for pushing high-quality cocktails. This thick cocktail recipe book covers all the bases of setting up a solid bar — right down to how to make your own grenadine — but the centerpiece is the cocktail list, which covers over 300 drinks from classics to more modern and original concoctions.

What makes this list unique — organized alphabetically, straight up — is that PDT includes brands for just about every liquor its recipes call for. This isn’t marketing. This is science, the results of testing each recipe with every available gin, vodka, whiskey, or rum, and picking the one that makes the best drink. PDT’s Sazerac is made with Rittenhouse, its Aviation is made with Beefeater, its Martini with Plymouth and Dolin. If you want all the mystery taken out of how to make a good drink, this book has you covered.

Published in hardcover and full color, The PDT Cocktail Book also includes the history of various spirits, bar food recipes (hot dogs too, of course), and other ephemera, but based on the strength of its recipe list alone, it’s a big winner. (Hint: Use the index if you’re searching for a drink based on its main ingredient.)

A / $15 / [BUY IT HERE]

Review: Ron Fortuna Reserva Exclusiva Anejo 8 Anos Rum

This new rum just now hitting the market hails from Nicaragua, where a single expression — 8 years old on the label — is currently being offered. Column-distilled from molasses five times and aged in American oak (ex-Bourbon barrels, I presume), it spends a minimum of 8 years in cask and a maximum of 10 before being bottled. Thoughts follow.

The nose is fragrant and fresh, with a very lively, floral character and lots of fresh citrus fruit. Light and spry, it almost comes across as lightly sherried. Lemon and honey notes are strong on the palate, with a long and sweet finish that recalls shortbread and — notably — sugar cookies. There’s barely a hint of wood in this rum, and the finish is so smooth you might not feel you’re drinking alcohol at all.

Dangerous stuff, and quite delicious.

80 proof.

A / $22 / ronfortuna.com

fortuna rum 8 years old Review: Ron Fortuna Reserva Exclusiva Anejo 8 Anos Rum

Review: The Balvenie Tun 1401, Batch 3 Single Malt

the balvenie tun 1401 batch 3 225x300 Review: The Balvenie Tun 1401, Batch 3 Single MaltThis special release of Balvenie is exclusive to the U.S., a vatting of ten “treasures” from Balvenie’s Warehouse 24. There are no detailed notes on how old each of these casks is — the youngest is from 1989 and the oldest is from 1967 — but seven come from traditional whisky casks and three from sherry butts. A tun is a rather large vat that holds up to 2000 liters of liquid, used primarily as a “marrying” vessel. And that’s what we have here: Ten old distillates put together to create a whisky that can never be repeated.

Tasting Tun 1401 is a rare treat. This batch offers unusually strong dried fruit character, big and crisp apples, fresh berries, and a strong citrus finish. Behind all this fruit — well spiced with cinnamon notes — there is some chewy marshmallow, and just a hint of smokiness, both on the nose and in the finish. A moderate slug of oak finishes things off.

Tun 1401 is a whisky that evolves considerably as you drink it, which is a pity since I have so little of it to consume. Even at 100 proof, it goes do so smoothly and easily it’s almost criminal. Fruit notes melt into dessert — gingerbread and fruitcake — and then, like that, you’ve nothing left but crumbs.

A / $250 / thebalvenie.com

Review: Smooth Ambler Yearling Bourbon Whiskey

This West Virgina-based distillery produces a variety of spirits, including vodka, gin, and several whiskeys. Yearling is the company’s entry-level Bourbon, double-distilled from a wheated (no rye) mashbill and aged 2 1/2 years in small American oak casks. (At least, my sample was 2 1/2 years old; the overall age appears to vary over time depending on the bottle.)

For a young whiskey, Yearling isn’t bad at all. Surprising intensity, with plenty of silky vanilla in the body. Light wood notes on the nose. Secondary flavors include chocolate-covered cherries and some coffee character. Warming finish, with unique notes of mint chocolate as it ends. I never, ever would have guessed this was just 2 1/2 years old… but some whiskeys, like Big Bottom, really can show their stuff at a young age.

92 proof. Reviewed: Batch #001.

A / $62 / smoothambler.com

smooth ambler yearling whiskey Review: Smooth Ambler Yearling Bourbon Whiskey

Wine Gadget Review: Air Cork

Drinking newly opened wine: Fun. Drinking three-day-old wine: Less fun.

Myriad tricks to preserve opened bottles of wine exist, ranging from vacuum pumps to nitrogen gas sprays to using smaller bottles to store leftovers. All are designed with a single goal: To get oxygen out and keep it out.

In my (exhaustive) experience, the best I’ve found so far is the pump system. It’s easy, reusable, quick, and it works fairly well. The pump may have to move aside now. In my testing, Air Cork seems to work somewhat better.

The gadget is a little strange-looking, to be sure. A hand pump (shaped like a cluster of grapes) is attached to a rubber balloon via a hose. You put the (deflated) balloon into your half-empty bottle of wine, just touching the surface of the liquid, then pump it up. A seal is formed with the glass as the balloon fills, so no air can get in or out.

Some nice advantages with this approach: Unlike witth a hand-pump vacuum, there really is no air left in the bottle once the balloon is in place. Pumps leave air behind, there’s just no way to get it all out. Another nice benefit: the hose hangs out of the bottle and doesn’t add any height it. Vacuum pump systems require a stopper which adds another inch to the bottle — which usually means it won’t fit in your refrigerator standing up.

Some problems with the Air Cork: It has to be given another pump every couple of days, as the balloon will slowly deflate over time. It also has to be cleaned (just with water) after each use, unlike the pump system. And of course the contraption does look a little silly. (And like all preservation systems, it is not suitable for sparkling wines.)

But it works, and it works well. I tasted opened wines that had been sealed with the Air Cork for one, two, and three days and could barely detect any oxidation in any of the samples.

I’m sold, and I’ll keep using Air Cork (probably continuing to test it in conjunction with pump systems, with an eye toward even longer-term storage) in the future.

A / $24 / aircork.com

Air Cork Wine Gadget Review: Air Cork

Review: Pina Napa Valley 2009 Cabernet Sauvignons

We’re longtime fans of Pina Napa Valley, which makes exclusively Cabernet from a variety of single-vineyard parcels throughout the Valley. The 2009 bottlings are hitting the market now, all showing much riper, more velvety character than when I sampled them from barrel in 2010. Here’s what your investment (not insignificant) will get you.

2009 Pina Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon D’Adamo Vineyard Napa Valley – Planted at the foothills of Atlas Peak, D’Adamo is not in a particular AVA other than the more general Napa Valley designation. Inky purple in color, it offers traditional chocolate, raisin, and plum notes, almost in a dessert-like structuring. Lush and easy to drink. B+ / $75

2009 Pina Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Ames Vineyard Oakville – The fruitiness is pulled back here, giving this wine a little more room to spread its legs. Less sweet, the tannin structure shines through more clearly here, with more of a dark cherry character tinged with olives. Could stand a few more years in bottle to let the flavors mingle a bit more, but ready to go today. A- / $85

2009 Pina Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Firehouse Vineyard Rutherford – Cuts a similar profile to the Ames Vineyard bottling. Easy-drinking now, with a cherry and plum profile atop a slightly more acidic body. B+ / $85

2009 Pina Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Wolff Vineyard Yountville - Not a vineyard you hear much about, this Yountville wine is perhaps my favorite of this batch. Ready to drink now, it’s heavy on the berry flavors, with a strong blueberry character coming along strong as the finish builds. Alongside that, bittersweet chocolate, tea, and nutmeg. And yet it’s not overly dessert-like. This wine can stand on its own or, with its lush (yet not coating) body, match well with food.  A / $85

pinanapavalley.com

pina napa valley Review: Pina Napa Valley 2009 Cabernet Sauvignons

Review: Bully Boy Vodka, White Rum, and White Whiskey

Boston’s first craft distiller was founded in 2010 by two brothers, Will and Dave Willis. Massachusetts natives, this deadly duo got into distilling thanks to the inspiration of their grandfather, who built an informal speakeasy on his farm, serving locally-produced hooch to friends and family.

“Bully,” incidentally, is not meant to evoke violence but rather “superb or wonderful,” an homage to a favorite term of the college roommate of the Willis’s great-grandfather, Teddy Roosevelt.

All spirits reviewed are 80 proof.

Bully Boy Vodka – Distilled from organic winter red wheat. This is a lovely vodka. A brisk sharpness on the nose reveals the lightest touch of sweetness on the palate. Touches of fruit, very light. In the way that a good tequila sets you up for a knockout when you sniff it, then lets you down with a silky-smooth experience as you drink it, Bully Boy Vodka is Beauty and the Beast all rolled up into one innocuous-looking bottle. Reviewed: Batch #31, bottle #292. A

Bully Boy White Rum – Distilled from blackstrap molasses, Bully Boy reminds us that Boston was once a center of rum production in the U.S., as any student of the 1919 Boston Molasses Disastercould tell you. Intense aroma, very much in keeping with unaged rum. Strongly green and vegetal, the nose moves into smooth, sugary sweetness, with a lasting finish that recalls tea and, to some extent, rubber. Reviewed: Batch #16, bottle #117. B

Bully Boy White Whiskey – Distilled entirely from organic American wheat, this unaged whiskey is milder than many entries into this growing category. Rustic and funky on the nose, the body offers more nuance, with a mild sweetness, flavors of fresh bread, and some citrus notes. The finish isn’t bad, but it makes one long for a simple oak barrel to put this in for a few years to see what happens. Reviewed: Batch #24, bottle #259. B-

each $28 / bullyboydistillers.com