Category Archives: Rated A

Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Four

Once more into the breach? We’re a quarter of the way into the Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project, with the fourth round of 12 Bourbons released this month, bringing the total to 48 out of 192.

Need previous coverage or a baseline of what this experimental series is all about? Find it here:
Round One (including all the basics of the approach to this series)
Round Two
Round Three

We won’t waste time this quarter going into the basics. This round focuses on the differences between two warehouses at Buffalo Trace, one with wood floors (Warehouse K), and one with concrete (Warehouse L). You’ll find both rye and wheat whiskeys here, plus the usual variety of wood grain in barrels, but otherwise the details are the same: 125 entry proof, #3 char, level 12 seasoning, and bottom half of tree used for the barrels. As usual, all Bourbons are bottled at 90 proof.

My results: I found the Warehouse K whiskeys to be better than their otherwise identical Warehouse L counterparts 4 out of 6 times. I gave them tie grades once and scored the Warehouse L whiskey higher once (and I think the Warehouse K whiskey on that comparison was simply off). Wood ricks are of course traditional in Bourbon country, and maybe this is why: They seem to produce better booze.

That said, on the whole, I found this round to be very worthwhile — in fact, taken as a group, it’s probably the best set of releases to date. Not sure if it’s me, but there’s a lot of sweetness in this batch… for the most a good thing.

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #10 – Interesting texture, almost like dissolved sugar. Great body and good balance, with flavors of apricots, tangerines, aged wood, and a long vanilla cream finale. Smooth, silky finish. One of the best from this series to date. A (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #14 – More syrupy, and more wood influence. Bit of raisin in the body, giving this a touch more interest. Not a bad whiskey at all. B+ (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #42 – A bigger whiskey than the previous, more sweet, and a bit of burn. Cedar box and evergreen notes. A solid Bourbon, especially for the sweet tooths (sweet teeth?) out there. A- (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #46 – Heavy wood influence, a bit overcooked. The finish redeems with a powerful cinnamon character. Plenty of vanilla here, too. Solid, woody Bourbon. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #74 – Pure vanilla and caramel, a lovely Kentucky approximation of creme brulee. The wood makes an appearance at the end, which somewhat mars the fun. Still like it. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #78 – Lots of wood here, but that fades with time in the glass. Beneath that there’s some sugar. Caramel character, to be specific. That sweetness grows as the finish rumbles on. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #106 – Nice orange character, which grows stronger as the finish builds. A sizeable wood influence in here, too, but the balance is not as full-formed as with other Bourbons in this collection. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #110 – Smooth caramel in a glass, with some unusual herbal notes on the finish, plus some dark chocolate character. Quite a departure from the other whiskeys in this collection, particularly its sibling, #106 — and really quite enjoyable with its complexity. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #138 – Evergreen notes on the nose lead to a somewhat traditional and sweet whiskey. The finish is a touch sour compared to the others in this round, but on the whole it’s another solid Bourbon. B+ (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #142 – Perhaps the first miss in this collection. Not much happening on the nose, and on the tongue it fades quickly. Over-wooded, with the flavor sucked out a bit. B- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #170 – Pure nougat on the nose and the palate, but a touch on the alcoholic side, leaving a hot finish lacking in most of the other whiskeys here. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #174 – A touch of menthol, some cherry notes, then a lingering, lasting sweetness. Great balance. Lovely Bourbon. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

$46 each (375ml bottle) / singleoakproject.com

Review: L.A. Burdick Robert Burns Collection

What do you give a whisky lover as a romantic gift? Well, you can give him whisky… or you can give him whisky-infused chocolates.

Recently it was suggested (or rather I was accused) of enjoying whisky confections more than the whisky itself (not true, I swear), and reader John Bratincevic turned me on to this collection of Scotch-infused chocolates released for Robert Burns’ birthday (January 25) from New Hampshire-based L.A. Burdick. The company was kind enough to send a sample box my way, and I’m going to tell you, if you can get them (they’re limited release confections), do it.

These aren’t those cheap, foil-wrapped Cointreau and Kahlua cordials your grandma used to give you once you were in your 30s. This is the real deal: A 1/2 pound box of truffles and bonbons flavored with Lagavulin, Macallan, Talisker, Springbank, Highland Park, and Glenfarclas — some of my favorite names in Scotch whisky.

The assortment spans 7 different items (only one is an unnamed “honey whiskey”), with about four to six pieces of each. Picking a favorite is tough. They are all wonderful. But if pressed, I’d go with the Highland Park (dark ganache with scent of grapefruit) and, surprisingly, the Talisker (currant-hazelnut ganache), both of which are complemented beautifully by the hints of fruit added to the ganache.

You can really taste the whisky in all of these confections — though the still let the chocolate shine through — and the bonbons are small enough to allow you to eat three or four without feeling disgusting afterward. All of these truffles are fabulous solo,  and are even better with whisky — either their namesakes or something else.

As I write this, the collection is only available as part of a combo with a Lunar New Year collection or as a set of two 1/2 lb. boxes. Do yourself a favor and pick one up either for yourself or for someone you love.

A / $31 / burdickchocolate.com

burdick robert burns collection chocolates scotch Review: L.A. Burdick Robert Burns Collection

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Finish 1991 and Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 Scotch Whiskys

We love Gordon & MacPhail around here. One of the biggest and most reliable independent Scotch whisky producers, its selection is insightful and its releases are utterly vast, with perhaps more than 100 bottlings on the market at any given time. Keeping up with G&M would be impossible even if it wasn’t incredibly expensive, but we were lucky to get our hands on two new releases from the exquisite “Private Collection” series. Thoughts follow.

Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Wood Finish 1991 – This 20 year old Speyside whisky spends 30 long months in ex-Cote Rotie wine barrels. I’ve had mixed luck with Rhone Valley wine barrel finishes, but this one hits on all cylinders. Rich and smooth, velvety almost, it starts with honey, vanilla, and nougat notes, then brings on lots of eastern spices — cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne pepper. Citrus oil fades in and out, along with some malty grain notes at the end. Complex but beautifully balanced and a bargain for a 20 year old malt. 90 proof. 1900 bottles made. A / $80

Gordon & MacPhail Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 – Take a 14-year old smoky Islay and finish it in Hermitage wine barrels for 30 months and what do you get? Well, it’s interesting but a little muddy: Heavy peat on the nose, and plenty more on the tongue. The Hermitage tries to cut through this, particularly in the finish, but what manages to get across is little more than some relatively undefined orange peel sweetness. The color — a deep amber — hints at a lot of fruit. I do think it’s in there. Somewhere. 90 proof. 800 bottles made. B+ / $80

gordonandmacphail.com

Review: Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. Warehouse C Tornado Surviving Bourbon

On April 2, 2006, a storm ripped through Kentucky, tearing apart two of Buffalo Trace’s warehouses. One was empty. One, Warehouse C, was full of 24,000 barrels of then-young, far-from-release E.H. Taylor Bourbon.

Warehouse C damage 2006 small 300x204 Review: Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. Warehouse C Tornado Surviving BourbonThe walls and roof were ripped open, but the whiskey survived. But this did expose the barrels inside to the elements (see photo at right), which stayed there for months while repairs were made.

In 2011, the whiskey from the top two rows of this warehouse was bottled as a special release with an unusual name: Warehouse C Tornado Surviving Bourbon. The whiskey inside is a rye-heavy mash. The barrels were aged between 9 years, 8 months and 11 years, 11 months. The Bourbon was bottled in bond at 100 proof.

(If this idea sounds familiar, see also Glenfiddich’s Snow Phoenix bottling.)

Sadly, I’ve no original Taylor to compare this release to, but it’s a powerful whiskey in its own right: Fragrant from the moment it’s poured with deep citrus and pure, spicy rye character. The body is full, the color deep amber. The palate is amazingly enjoyable for a Bourbon this old and roughly-treated. Plenty of citrus atop a creme brulee body, the rye less powerful here than on the nose. Superb balance. The finish is warm (as you’d expect from a 100 proof whiskey), but easier than you’d think. Lovely wood tones and flamed orange peel round it out. Probably the best Taylor of the three bottlings released so far.

A / $70 / buffalotrace.com

EHTaylor Whs C Tornado Surviving Bottle and Canister Low Res Review: Colonel E.H. Taylor Jr. Warehouse C Tornado Surviving Bourbon

 

Review: t1 Tequilas

t1, aka Tequila Uno, is a new brand of Highlands-grown, 100% blue agave tequila brought to us by the master distiller of the well-regarded Chinaco Tequila line, German Gonzalez. Gonzalez’s twist on the spirit? For some of his varieties, instead of aging in Bourbon casks for his reposado and anejo, he uses ex-Scotch barrels (which were probably Bourbon barrels before that, of course). I don’t know that I’ve never heard of such a thing — but I was instantly intrigued.

The company dropped off all three varieties — including the just-launched anejo — for us to sample. All are 80 proof. Thought follow.

t1 Tequila Blanco Ultra-Fino - Straight, unaged white tequila. This exhibits the classic sweet and fruity character common to Highland tequilas, amazingly bright with pear and apple notes, a bit of lemon, and a little cinnamon on the finish — almost apple pie-like. The agave is heavy on the nose, at least initially. With air, this fades pretty quickly, leaving behind these wonderful fruit flavors and a soothing, mint-like agave lacing. Beautiful, one of the most subtle blancos I’ve experienced in a long while. A / $40

t1 Tequila Reposado Excepcional – t1 makes a standard reposado (we didn’t try it); this is the one aged in Scotch casks, where it spends 6 to 9 months soaking up goodness from that island up north. This is a really intriguing spirit. For starters, it’s quite sweet, much more so than I expected, but who knows what Scotch barrels are used here? Really bright citrus flavors here, lots of pineapple notes. It’s tough to pick out malt whisky character on this one, that sugariness is overwhelming. It even drowns out the agave notes for the most part, leaving behind something that approaches — as near as I can describe it — a lightly aged rum. As tequila goes, this is, put simply, something else. Frighteningly easy-drinking. B+ / $50

t1 Tequila Anejo Estelar – Intense coffee and burnt sugar dominates this anejo, which spends up to 24 months in Scotch barrels. I lively bronze in color, the body recalls the sweetness of the Excepcional, but is tempered with more candy bar notes, dark chocolate (again), plus coconut, almonds, and a cappuccino finish. Again, intensely drinkable, but not entirely challenging. A- / $55

t1tequila.com

 Review: t1 Tequilas

Review: The Botanist Islay Dry Gin

By now my foolish claim that Scotland made only one gin has been widely disproven (by myself, even), but The Botanist makes a more specific, and so far irrefutable, assertion: It’s the only gin made on the island of Islay, that part of Scotland that gives us its peatiest Scotch whiskys, the ones with (arguably) the most character.

The Botanist is made at Bruichladdich, distilled from wheat and infused with a massive collection of botanicals: All of the traditional ones (nine here), plus a whopping 22 additional, native botanicals which are picked wild on the island of Islay (see complete list below). The gin is infused in two stages: First the standard gin stuff goes in, then the second batch of goodies are infused using a basket infusion process. Bruichladdich claims it’s a slow operation, taking three times as long as most gins to make (which, to be honest, is not that long anyway).

15,000 bottles were made in the first batch.

Results: The Botanist offers a surprisingly clean aroma, very light on juniper with some citrus and cinnamon notes in the forefront. With all this stuff going on (and in) I was expecting a monster gin, but The Botanist is surprisingly easygoing and, dare I say, not Islay-like at all. Smoke? Absolutely not. This is a gin that’s surprisingly sweet and really fresh tasting. Evergreen is there, but it’s all the basil-like tones that make it so much fun — not to mention lots of citrus, cinnamon, and mint tones really rounding things out. There’s a reason they call it The Botanist, and not because it’s meant to evoke a scary old man that still lives with his mom. The body is a bit oily, but quite smooth and easy in spite of its higher proof level.

This is really an exceptional gin that deserves seeking out, or calling by name in any proper mixed drink.

92 proof.

Complete botanical list: Angelica root *, Apple Mint, Birch leaves, Bog Myrtle leaves, Cassia bark *, Chamomile (sweet), Cinnamon bark *, Coriander seed *, Creeping Thistle flowers, Elder flowers, Gorse flowers, Heather flowers, Hawthorn flowers, Juniper (prostrate) berries, Juniper berries *, Lady’s Bedstraw flowers, Lemon Balm, Lemon peel *, Liquorice root *, Meadow Sweet, Orange peel *, Orris root *, Peppermint leaves, Mugwort leaves, Red Clover flowers, Sweet Cicely leaves, Tansy, Thyme leaves, Water Mint leaves, White Clover, Wood Sage leaves. (* = Non Islay Botanical)

A / $33 / bruichladdich.com

botanist gin Review: The Botanist Islay Dry Gin

Tasting Pine Ridge Vineyards Wines

Pine Ridge is a winery that I’ve visited many times and tasted many more. The proprietors were kind enough to send their latest round of releases for our commentary. Thoughts follow.

2010 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc+Viognier California -  79% Chenin Blanc and 21% Viognier, it turns out to be a fantastic combo. Peach and light honey notes via the Viognier are immediately present, balanced by racy acidity from the Chenin Blanc. Very easy drinking, and wonderful balance. I would never think to order a Chenin Blanc from a wine list, but this is a crazy value. A / $14

2009 Pine Ridge Dijon Clones Chardonnay Carneros / Napa Valley -  A straight up California Chardonnay, light on the oak and butter, but rich and full bodied. Some grapefruit character and pineapples play with the pear-infused body, but the finish runs back a bit toward the woody, and lightly astringent, side. B / $25

2008 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley – The jamminess punches you from the first whiff, and a sip crams sweet maraschino cherry character down your gullet. The finish, all burnt cocoa and coffee grounds, just keeps that power — not entirely friendly — going. B- / $40

2008 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District - A bit more balance here, with a tartness that mutes the sweetness of the wine, still present in spades. The cherries turn black and that burnt character is minimized here. Definitely drinkable, but lacking in nuance in the way that so many overdone Napa Cabs can be. B+ / $65

pineridgewinery.com

Review: Hangar One Spiced Pear and Maine Wild Blueberry Vodkas

Hangar One recently launched two new flavors to its extremely well-regarded infused vodka line (Kaffir Lime is widely thought of — by myself included — as the best flavored vodka on the market), with pears and blueberries their respective inspirations. Both are naturally infused, colorless, and bottled at 80 proof, uncommon for flavored vodkas. Thoughts on each follow.

Hangar One Spiced Pear Vodka – The “spices” in this mix aren’t revealed, but let’s take a stab at what they might be based on nosing and tasting: Cinnamon, cloves, perhaps some ginger. The pear flavor — pears are sourced from Colorado — is authentic and has that subtle earthiness that apples lack. The vodka component has plenty of bite, but it’s neither harsh nor unpleasant, making this spirit a good choice as a mixer in many scenarios. That said, pears have never really been my bag. If you’re into that kind of mulled pear cider character, you’ll likely be a fan of this seasonal concoction. B+

Hangar One Maine Wild Blueberry Vodka – Did you know over half of all wild blueberries in the U.S. come from Maine? Who knows how many of those end up in this vodka, but it’s surely a lot: This spirit is pungent with blueberry character from the moment it is poured, blueberry hanging heavy in the air. The body is about the same, not quite as rich as I was expecting, but still deep and quite delicious, blueberries all the way and just a touch of vodka bite on the back end. I like it a touch better than the also very good Stoli Blueberi. Overall it’s a really worthy candidate as one of the best fruit-flavored vodkas on the market. A

each $30 / hangarone.com

Review: Big Bottom Whiskey Port Cask Finish 3 Years Old

I liked Big Bottom’s 2 Year Old Port Cask Finished Whiskey so much I named it my top American whiskey of the year. What could be better then than Big Bottom Port Finished Whiskey, one year older?

With this second batch of whiskey, the Bourbon is older (3 years, one day) before it went into the Port casks, and it spends longer in the finishing barrels (4-5 months instead of 3-4 months). The barrels were also turned over more quickly: This time the finishing barrels spent only 30 days idle and empty; with batch one they were empty for about four months before the whiskey went in.

Those are the mechanical differences, what about the taste? I sadly don’t have any of the first batch of whiskey left, so comparisons are tough. But versus my notes and the similarly made Angel’s Envy, this is a whiskey where the wood is clearer in its influence, muting somewhat the Port character.

That said, the whiskey is spry and racy, spicy confection that balances sweet with lots of peppery spice, cinnamon, cloves, raisins, and with wood running through all of it. Great balance, but quite a different spirit. I like it almost as much as the original, which is evidenced by the fact that by the time I got to writing this review, my sample bottle was already empty.

91 proof.

A / $30 / bigbottomwhiskey.com

3 Year Port Cask Bottle Image Review: Big Bottom Whiskey Port Cask Finish 3 Years Old

Review: Auchentoshan Valinch 2011 and 1999 Vintage Bordeaux Matured Whiskys

Auchentoshan is in just about every way an oddity. It’s the only distillery in the city of Glasgow (making it a Lowlands whisky), and it’s the only Scotch whisky that’s distilled three times instead of the usual two (meaning it comes off the final still at an incredibly high 162 proof). The house style uses unpeated barley.

I’ve long dismissed Auchentoshan as making rather simplistic, uninteresting whiskys, but these two impressive yet affordable, limited release bottlings have me rethinking the brand and digging into my archives to re-sample its standard releases. While these two new spirits are going to be incredibly hard to find, both are more than worth your while to do so.

Auchentoshan Valinch 2011 Limited Edition – This is simply a cask strength version of Auchentoshan Classic, a $30, non-age-statement spirit. Pale in color, hugely sweet, with burnt and brown sugar character on the tip of the tongue. Tropical notes follow, pineapple and lots of banana. Quite a bit of coconut and smoke on the finish, reminding one of the simplicity of Classic, but the much higher proof actually makes for a much more fulfilling whisky by giving it more oomph, although it still manages not to come across as overly hot. 2000 bottles made, 1200 available in the U.S. 115 proof. A- / $60

Auchentoshan 1999 Bordeaux Cask Matured – This isn’t a Bordeaux finished whisky, it’s a Bordeaux matured whisky: It has spent 11 full years in a former red wine cask, rather than just a few months getting a little finish in an oddball barrel, the normal M.O. for artisanal whisky makers. Bottled at cask strength, this deep amber whisky is quite a marvel. It starts off with a traditional malty character but very quickly takes you down a rabbit hole of exotic flavors. Wood is predominant, with a big caramel punch and lots of vanilla, too. The spice kicks in in the end, gingerbread, spiked apple punch, cherries, and fruitcake. Lots going on here, and definitely worth a look if you can find it (just 300 bottles are available in the U.S.). The price is criminally low. 116 proof. A / $70

auchentoshan.com