Category Archives: Rated A-

Review: Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Bourbon Round Four

Once more into the breach? We’re a quarter of the way into the Buffalo Trace Single Oak Project, with the fourth round of 12 Bourbons released this month, bringing the total to 48 out of 192.

Need previous coverage or a baseline of what this experimental series is all about? Find it here:
Round One (including all the basics of the approach to this series)
Round Two
Round Three

We won’t waste time this quarter going into the basics. This round focuses on the differences between two warehouses at Buffalo Trace, one with wood floors (Warehouse K), and one with concrete (Warehouse L). You’ll find both rye and wheat whiskeys here, plus the usual variety of wood grain in barrels, but otherwise the details are the same: 125 entry proof, #3 char, level 12 seasoning, and bottom half of tree used for the barrels. As usual, all Bourbons are bottled at 90 proof.

My results: I found the Warehouse K whiskeys to be better than their otherwise identical Warehouse L counterparts 4 out of 6 times. I gave them tie grades once and scored the Warehouse L whiskey higher once (and I think the Warehouse K whiskey on that comparison was simply off). Wood ricks are of course traditional in Bourbon country, and maybe this is why: They seem to produce better booze.

That said, on the whole, I found this round to be very worthwhile — in fact, taken as a group, it’s probably the best set of releases to date. Not sure if it’s me, but there’s a lot of sweetness in this batch… for the most a good thing.

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #10 – Interesting texture, almost like dissolved sugar. Great body and good balance, with flavors of apricots, tangerines, aged wood, and a long vanilla cream finale. Smooth, silky finish. One of the best from this series to date. A (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #14 – More syrupy, and more wood influence. Bit of raisin in the body, giving this a touch more interest. Not a bad whiskey at all. B+ (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #42 – A bigger whiskey than the previous, more sweet, and a bit of burn. Cedar box and evergreen notes. A solid Bourbon, especially for the sweet tooths (sweet teeth?) out there. A- (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #46 – Heavy wood influence, a bit overcooked. The finish redeems with a powerful cinnamon character. Plenty of vanilla here, too. Solid, woody Bourbon. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, tight grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #74 – Pure vanilla and caramel, a lovely Kentucky approximation of creme brulee. The wood makes an appearance at the end, which somewhat mars the fun. Still like it. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #78 – Lots of wood here, but that fades with time in the glass. Beneath that there’s some sugar. Caramel character, to be specific. That sweetness grows as the finish rumbles on. A- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #106 – Nice orange character, which grows stronger as the finish builds. A sizeable wood influence in here, too, but the balance is not as full-formed as with other Bourbons in this collection. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #110 – Smooth caramel in a glass, with some unusual herbal notes on the finish, plus some dark chocolate character. Quite a departure from the other whiskeys in this collection, particularly its sibling, #106 — and really quite enjoyable with its complexity. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, average grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #138 – Evergreen notes on the nose lead to a somewhat traditional and sweet whiskey. The finish is a touch sour compared to the others in this round, but on the whole it’s another solid Bourbon. B+ (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #142 – Perhaps the first miss in this collection. Not much happening on the nose, and on the tongue it fades quickly. Over-wooded, with the flavor sucked out a bit. B- (rye, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #170 – Pure nougat on the nose and the palate, but a touch on the alcoholic side, leaving a hot finish lacking in most of the other whiskeys here. B+ (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, wood ricks, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

Buffalo Trace Distillery Single Oak Project Barrel #174 – A touch of menthol, some cherry notes, then a lingering, lasting sweetness. Great balance. Lovely Bourbon. A (wheat, 125 entry proof, level 12 seasoning, coarse grain, concrete, #3 char, bottom half of tree)

$46 each (375ml bottle) / singleoakproject.com

Review: Wines of Pali Wine Company, 2010 Cuvees

Pali operates in Lompoc but bottles single vineyard wines — primary Pinot — from all over the west coast. Recently it launched a cuvee program to bring more affordable, region-specific wines to the masses in higher volumes than it can do with its single vineyard wines. We tasted three of the newly released 2010 bottlings. Notes follow.

2010 Pali Chardonnay Charm Acres Sonoma Coast - Surprisingly restrained for California Chardonnay. Lemon and grapefruit on the nose, buttery and rich body, but minimal oak influence and a really light finish that fades fast. Easy drinking and, while not exactly complicated, refreshing for Chardonnay. A- / $20

2010 Pali Pinot Noir Huntington Santa Barbara County – Very jammy for Pinot, particularly for a wine from the typically denser Santa Barbara region. Big strawberry and raspberry character, with minimal tannin. So much fruit you’d think you’re drinking grape juice. I don’t mean that in a bad way. I rated the 2009 vintage the same. B+ / $21

2010 Pali Pinot Noir Riviera Sonoma Coast – Even jammier, almost cloying. Massive strawberry character here, strawberry syrup and candy-like, with a touch of chocolate on the back end. Too sweet for my tastes. B- / $19

paliwineco.com

Review: Liber & Co. Spiced Tonic Syrup

Austin-based Liber & Company trucks in a pretty narrow world: Artisinal, spiced tonic syrup.

Liber & Co. sent us samples of their new product and it’s certainly nothing like your bottle of Schweppes. A ruddy orange, and indeed a tonic syrup, not a tonic “water.” Made with crushed herbs, spices, and cinchona bark, it is filtered down to 25 microns, “the lower threshold that the human tongue can detect,” per the company, to remove particulates. Agave nectar is used for sweetening.

The results are impressive if overwhelming. Tasted alone the syrup is a gut-puncher, full of orange peel and clove character, sweet at first, then fading to bitter in the way you might expect tonic to taste. There’s a vague quinine aftertaste that reminds you what it is you’re drinking.

Naturally this is not meant to be drank solo, and I tried it in the Save the Countess cocktail recipe (below), with great results. Here the tonic syrup works well with its fellow spirits, creating a fun and balanced — if quite flavorful — cocktail. (Do not omit the grapefruit juice and shake it long and hard if you make one. A little melted ice is essential to get this down to the right booze level.)

Overall, this is a fun mixer that will make you think wildly differently about  what G&T night can be.

Currently available in Austin, Dallas, and Washington, D.C.

A- / $10 for 8 oz. bottle / liberandcompany.com

Save the Countess
3/4 oz. Spiced Tonic Syrup
1 1/4 oz. gin
1 1/4 oz. Lillet Blanc
splash grapefruit juice
2 dashes Peychaud bitters

Shake all ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a grapefruit twist.

liber and company spiced tonic syrup Review: Liber & Co. Spiced Tonic Syrup

Review: Mandarine Napoleon Orange Liqueur

Was Napoleon an orange liqueur man? My sources say he drank Burgundy and Cognac — like a good Frenchman should — so how would he feel about an orange liqueur being sold in his name? Well, guess what: This liqueur was made especially for Napoleon Bonaparte, and wasn’t offered to sale to the public until 1892.

Mandarine Napoleon is a Grand Marnier clone, a blend of straight orange liqueur and Cognac. The mandarins used are sourced from Sicily and Corsica. The Cognac used is a 10-year-old edition, which is quite aged and which, I would imagine, is used sparingly in the blend due to its relative cost. Artificial color is used to give it a deeper orange character.

The nose is pure orange, undercut with alcohol notes — understandable since this is bottled at 76 proof.

On the body, more oranges, with a rich, lightly oxidized body. Spices including cinnamon, licorice, and cloves, with plenty of sugar to sweeten the pot. The brandy mellows and enriches the concoction, giving it a warming, woody, and more exotic flavor. The body is a bit on the syrupy side — common for orange liqueurs — but it isn’t cloying. The finish is of course quite sweet, and lasting like an orange hard candy. I really enjoy margaritas made with Grand Marnier in lieu of standard triple sec, and I expect this would exceed in one much the same way.

I don’t have any Grand Marnier on hand (surprisingly) to compare this to directly, but if memory serves this is a pretty close approximation. Moderately sweet and enjoyable on its own and as a mixer. The retro bottle is a bit off-putting, but look beyond the tinted, textured glass and to the liquid within.

A- / $30 / mandarinenapoleon.com

mandarine napoleon Review: Mandarine Napoleon Orange Liqueur

Review: Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams 2011 Limited Release Scotch Whisky

The story behind the creation of Cask of Dreams is beyond anything else I’ve ever heard of in the five years I’ve been writing this blog.

If you don’t know the tale, draw near, and listen to the story of how you make a truly unique whisky.

Cask of Dreams starts with off-the-rick Glenfiddich, with Malt Master Brian Kinsman picking 14- to 16-year-old casks of the lightest style of whisky he could find.

Meanwhile, Glenfiddich ambassadors took 11 new, unused oak casks and took them to the streets of 11 U.S. cities. No, literally. They rolled them around, had locals sign them, then had a party to celebrate all things ‘Fiddich.

The 11 casks were then sent back to the Highlands of Scotland, and the whisky from those aforementioned casks was put into these new oak casks for finishing. New oak will age a spirit mighty fast, so it was watched carefully, bottling after three months in those “Casks of Dreams” at 97.6 proof. The whisky from those 11 casks was mingled in the final vatting: There’s only one 2011 Cask of Dreams, not 11 of them.

3,500 bottles were made, all to be sold in the U.S.

This is a unique and intriguing whisky. I can’t think of any other release that used new oak at any point in the creation. Notably, there is no ex-sherry wood in this blend, increasingly common for single malt whisky.

It’s really a lovely, and dangerously drinkable malt. Despite a respectable age and despite the new oak influence, it is remarkably light in body, lush with character. Vanilla pops out first on the nose, and that carries over to the body. Here you’ll also find big apple fruit — almost applesauce, with cinnamon notes, especially once you add water — plus lots of exotic cedar box and incense lacing. The finish turns to figs, golden raisins, and some cooked stone fruit flavors. But none of this is overcooked the way some old whiskys can be. There’s no real raw wood influence here, just that smooth vanilla that I chalk mainly up to the years it spends in ex-Bourbon barrels.

Cask of Dreams will be back in 2012, this time with an art-focused bent on the barrels and a more international vibe perhaps. Meanwhile, this bottling is already hard to find. Snap it up if you can.

A- / $100 / caskofdreams.com

glenfiddich cask of dreams 2011 Review: Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams 2011 Limited Release Scotch Whisky

Review: Absolut Miami Limited Edition Vodka

Absolut’s sixth city-inspired flavor takes us to the sunny shores of Miami, where no doubt plenty of vodka is consumed alongside all the rum that goes down there.

Absolut flavors this one with passion fruit and orange blossoms, two great tastes that go great together… and that go great together with vodka. The nose is heady with citrus, but it’s the distinct passion fruit character that cuts through the most succinctly. The orange is there in the body, but it’s an afterthought next to that really ripe and fruity passion fruit flavor. The body is solid, with a minimal medicinal aftertaste. Altogether it’s got a great balance of fruit and punchiness.

I’m a fan of Skyy Passion Fruit Vodka and this flavored version is about on par with it. All measure of tropical- or citrus-flavored recipes would benefit from using Absolut Miami in the recipe. Absolut suggests trying it in a Mojito or, one that sounds even more enticing, a “South Beach Breeze” with pineapple and orange juices.

80 proof.

A- / $24 per 1-liter bottle / absolut.com

ABSOLUT MIAMI vodka Review: Absolut Miami Limited Edition Vodka

Review: Concannon Irish Whiskey

There are about a half dozen unique things going on with this new Irish whiskey. Let’s enumerate them one by one.

1) It’s being sold and branded not by a distillery and not by an Irish company but by a California winery. It is, however, made in Ireland, in conjunction with Cooley Distillery (a giant in Irish whiskey).

2) It’s aged (four years) in ex-Bourbon barrels, then finished in Concannon Petite Sirah barrels for four more months. Most Irish isn’t finished in any other kind of barrel, much less a Petite Sirah wine barrel. (In fact, I’ve never heard of anything being finished in a Petite Sirah barrel.)

OK, that’s two things, but those are two really big things, am I right?

Concannon, as the name suggests, has Irish heritage, so a whiskey from this Cali winemaker makes more sense than you’d think. And the results, I have to say, are impressive.

The nose is rich with nougat character, soft sugar, a bit of vanilla, like a custard. This continues on the palate, where a lush body offers up orange juice, banana pudding, and a bit of oak wood. The body is spot-on, balanced in the way that makes everyone find Irish whiskey so easy to drink. It may not have the depth of a well-aged Jameson Reserve, but for an Irish in this price range it’s got soul to spare. Well done.

80 proof.

A- / $25 / concannonvineyard.com

concannon whiskey Review: Concannon Irish Whiskey

Review: Jameson Black Barrel Select Reserve Irish Whiskey

Jameson is one of the big darlings of the whiskey world right now — Irish is currently the fastest growing spirits category, and Jameson is at the top of the sales charts. We’ve long loved Jameson’s various incarnations, and now it’s out with a new one.

Jameson Black Barrel is mostly malted barley aged for considerably longer than standard Jameson — 12 years vs. 5 to 7, in both Bourbon and sherry casks. Then a touch of grain whiskey that’s been aged in Wild Turkey barrels is added to the mix. Bottling alcohol level remains at 80 proof.

While there’s nothing specifically “black” about Black Barrel, it’s a considerably different experience than standard label Jameson. The nose is rich, Bourbon-like, with vanilla and toasty oak notes. The body is creamy and impressively smooth, undercut with some citrus character likely brought on by the sherry cask influence. The finish offers grain notes, like a bowl of thick, raisined oatmeal, with a fleeting touch of smoke at the end. It’s night and day with regular Jameson, which is all fresh fruit and grass, with a menthol character to it. Black Barrel, side by side, very quickly overwhelms the regular bottling. As Irish whiskey goes, it’s almost decadent.

A- / $38 / jamesonwhiskey.com

jameson black barrel with box Review: Jameson Black Barrel Select Reserve Irish Whiskey

Review: Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon

Like Maker’s Mark before it, Woodford Reserve has been known for producing one whiskey and — it’s annual, limited edition, special release whiskeys notwithstanding — one whiskey only.

Then Maker’s launched Maker’s 46, leaving Woodford the only solo shop.

Now Woodford is joining the club with Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon.

It’s a complicated process, but let’s explain, in Woodford’s own words: “The first Woodford Reserve barrel is crafted from oak that has seasoned out of doors for nine months and this is completely toasted and charred on the inside – like no other whiskey barrel in the world. The second barrel has been toasted for more than twice as long as the first fill barrel and is then very lightly charred – again unique amongst all the world’s whiskey barrels.  The secret to the Double Oaked character is in the second barrel. A custom crafted barrel with a heavier toast allows flavors of honey, cream, vanilla to be magnified and a light char gives elegant sweet aromatic notes.”

Side by side with the original Woodford, Double Oaked offers a whiskey that sticks close to the distillery’s classic style. Lots of cinnamon and raisin on the nose, with vanilla, light chocolate, and smoothed-over wood notes on the finish. Compared to the original, it is surprisingly not heavier on the wood character but rather smoother and more mellow, particularly on the finish. Woodford original has always been a touch on the tough, wood-heavy side, and here Woodford manages to dial it back. The unorthodox production method and ironic name choice notwithstanding, the choices are sound. While Double Oaked lacks some of that intense vanilla character on the finish that original Woodford has, it makes up for it with more nuance and a smoother ride.

I am hard pressed to pick a favorite, but ultimately I think Double Oaked is a slight improvement over an already fine whiskey. Both, by the way, are 90.4 proof.

A- / $50 / woodfordreserve.com

woodford reserve double oaked bourbon Review: Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon

Review: Vida Tequila Blanco

vida tequila blanco 200x300 Review: Vida Tequila BlancoVida is a relatively new brand on the tequila scene, 100% blue agave and available in the usual expressions. We tasted the Blanco expression, which is a pure agave/unaged rendition.

This silver tequila is classic in structure. Some time in the glass is helpful at airing things out and letting some of the heavier agave notes out. Once they flitter away, Vida reveals itself to be a really fun and lively tequila, mildly sweet with fresh and granulated sugar character. Below that, plenty of apple and pear fruit, perhaps a touch of pineapple and banana. The finish: Very light caramel notes.

Nice balance, once that initial agave rush clears.

A- / $40 / vidatequila.com