Category Archives: Reviews

Review: NV Pink Panda and 2007 Naked Rebel Red Wine

Targeting a clearly younger, more modern, and cost-conscious drinker, Naked Rebel is a new brand that’s offering two wines at launch. One is quite good. Thoughts on both follow.

 Review: NV Pink Panda and 2007 Naked Rebel Red WineNV Pink Panda – “Sparkling grape wine with natural flavors.” Say what? There’s really no telling whats in this ultra-fruity concoction — it is reportedly a demi-sec rose of Alexander Valley Pinot — considering how full of strawberry and heavy rose-petal-perfume notes it is. In the quest to come across as playful, those “natural flavors” (a term typically reserved for wines heavily spiked with fruit juice) basically just come across as brutish and juvenile. Not really drinkable beyond a few sips. D / $18

 Review: NV Pink Panda and 2007 Naked Rebel Red Wine2007 Naked Rebel California Red Wine – Don’t try to sift through the white-on-black-all-caps on the back of the bottle. This blend of Syrah and Oakville Cabernet is fairly delish without the verbiage. Touches of smoke on the nose lead to a plummy, Cab-heavy body that is heavy on the fruit. Now six years old, its tannins have faded enough to make things well integrated and reasonably balanced, though the relatively light body has trouble offering up much in the way of secondary notes. B+ / $20

nakedrebelwinery.com

Review: Dogfish Head Aprihop IPA

Dogfish Head Aprihop 223x300 Review: Dogfish Head Aprihop IPAWhy brewers keep putting apricots in their beers I’ll never know. If asked to choose a fruit to eat, the apricot will invariably be the last on my list. Fresh or dried. Meh.

Aprihop is Dogfish Head’s IPA, brewed using the fruit that dare not speak its name and finished with whole leaf hops. Up front it’s got solid bitterness, with lots of heavy apricot notes on top. Almost overwhelming, these fruity bits blow off after a few minutes and leave behind a more gentle fruitiness.

Still, the sizable hop character and the somewhat sickly sweet apricot notes never quite mesh. The finish is long and ultimately turns sour, coating the mouth. The only cure is another slug, which brings enough bitterness to wash it away. Rinse and repeat.

7% abv.

B / $3 per bottle / dogfish.com

Review: Indio Beer

Indio Bottle 94x300 Review: Indio BeerIndio: Not from India, but from Mexico. Born south of the border in 1893, Indio only made it to the U.S. in 2012, courtesy of owner Heineken (which makes Tecate, Dos Equis, Sol, and a ton of other familiar beers in the same brewery). Now that Indio’s here, how’s it taste?

This curious, darker Mexican lager is at first appealing. The body is brisk, mildly bitter but nutty and lightly earthy — corn husks, perhaps? Things go along well enough until the finish, which gets progressively more and more bitter — too much so, really. This finish is not so much hoppy as it is weedy and vegetal, almost acrid in some bottles that I encountered. Quality seems to be erratic and the beer, overall, is just so-so.

B- / $8 per 6-pack / facebook.com/IndioBeer

Mainstream Brewery Spotlight: Anheuser-Busch’s Budweiser Line Reviewed

Discriminating drinkers aren’t immune from the mainstream, and ultra-micro-craft brews aren’t always available when you’re looking for a six pack at your local convenience store. What then about the biggest beer of them all? Today we look at the complete lineup of Budweiser beers, which now includes six different bottlings. Thoughts follow.

As the oldest beer within Anheuser-Busch’s portfolio, Budweiser defines the very meaning of a “brand.” Not only has the Budweiser name produced off-shoots of varying flavors and target demographics, but the beer’s popularity extends beyond what is contained within the bottle. With the iconic Clydesdale mascots and extensive marketing program, even consumers who don’t necessarily like beer are drawn into the fold.

Budweiser 150x132 Mainstream Brewery Spotlight: Anheuser Buschs Budweiser Line ReviewedJust like its commercials, Budweiser lager is a classic. Anheuser-Busch brews Budweiser and its various siblings with rice, and the impact is readily apparent. The aroma and taste take on a neutral characteristic because of it, but it leans towards sweet as a result of the rest of the malt bill. In contrast to some of the lighter Bud offerings, this original Budweiser exhibits a noticeable graininess in the form of buttery cereal grains that add flavor. While not the focus by any stretch, hop influences creep in the nose and flavor by contributing a light fruitiness and earthy spice. C- / $6.99 per six-pack

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Tasting Report: Whiskies of the World Expo San Francisco 2013

Either Whiskies of the World is getting bigger or I’m getting slower. Looking at the list below you’d think I scoured this increasingly high-quality event from top to bottom. In reality I barely scratched the surface, completely missing tastings from Kavalan, Amrut, Tyrconnell, and more. Note to self next year: Focus!

Brief thoughts on everything I sampled at the event follow.

Tasting Report: Whiskies of the World San Francisco 2013

American Whiskey

Hirsch Small Batch Reserve Bourbon / A / great vanilla, butterscotch character
Old Medley 12 Years Old Bourbon / B / big wood, some spice
Willett Pot Still Reserve Bourbon / B+ / lots of grain influence, dry wood
High West Rendezvous Rye / B+ / interesting dill notes
Lost Spirits Leviathan II / B+ / similar to the original, a monster peat bog
Lost Spirits Ouroboros Cask #1 / A- / crazy, smoke collides with fruit in a big way (full review coming soon)
Corsair Artisan Quinoa Whiskey / B / big grains, fiery nose

Scotch

Arran Sauternes Finish / A- / big almond influence, malty
Bruichladdich The Sixteen / A- / chewy, nougat, slight woodiness
Chieftain’s Miltonduff 1989 22 Years Old / B+ / huge fire, citrus notes
Chieftain’s Craigellachie 1991 21 Years Old / B+ / relatively easy/simple
Glenglassaugh North American Exclusive 27 Years Old / A / a big whiskey, tons of power, depth
Glenmorangie Ealanta / A- / unpeated 19 year old whiskey that’s spent its life in virgin, unused casks; lots of Bourbon and vanilla character, chocolate
Douglas Laing Dailvaine 28 Years Old / B+ / lots of smoke of front, some tobacco, wood
Douglas Laing Inchgower 30 Years Old / A- / huge cotton candy, caramel notes
Gordon and MacPhail Ledaig St. Joseph Finish 1993 / B+ / smoldering, chewy, dry finish
Gordon and MacPhail Speymalt Macallan 21 Years Old / A- / big, chewy Mac
Gordon and MacPhail Old Pulteney 21 Years Old / A / great balance, some fruit, vanilla, cookies
Muirhead’s Silver Seal Speyside 1992 Limited Edition 20 Years Old / B+ / big grain character
Samaroli Bunnahabhain 1978 / C+ / sweaty, not drinking well
Samaroli Caol Ila Selezione Samaroli Top Class 1980 / B+ / big, peaty, chewy
Samaroli Glen Garioch 1990 / B / minty, a bit odd
Samaroli Evolution Selezione 2011 / A- / not feeling the usual awesomeness tonight
Samaroli Glen Scotia 1992 / B / leathery, coal fires
Samaroli Isle of Jura 1997 / B+ / fiesty, gritty
Samaroli Tomintoul Selezione Samaroli Top Class 1967 / A- / malty, surprisingly light; gingerbread finish
Old Pulteney 17 Years Old / A- / 17 years all in sherry casks, intense citrus and nuts
Old Pulteney 21 Years Old / A / great body, rich nougat character
Old Pulteney 30 Years Old / A / lovely and rich, a standout
Talisker 30 Years Old / B+ / smoke and sweet, well-melded
Tomatin 30 Years Old / B+ / silky, then a brooding finish

Other Whiskeys

Bushmills 21 Years Old / B+ / lots of grain influence
Nikka 15 Years Old / A- / light, delightful smoke and sweetness

Review: Lovoka Caramel Liqueur

lovoka liqueur 200x300 Review: Lovoka Caramel LiqueurIn its minimalist, narrow, aluminum bottle, the immediate assumption is that this is water for your bike ride, not a kooky liqueur — based on vodka and flavored with caramel.

Available in three flavors (including chocolate and “silk”), Lovoka (la-vah-cah) is an incredibly popular South African “vodka liqueur” that recently expanded distribution internationally. It’s now also being made under license in Fairfield, California (noteworthy as the home of the closest Chick-fil-A to San Francisco), the base for its U.S. distribution. While the dessert theme may throw you, be advised these are not cream-based liqueurs. The caramel (the first to be sold in the U.S. and the only one we tasted) is the color of light whiskey. Which is to say, caramel colored.

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Review: Cheribundi Cherry Juice Mixers

cheribundi 300x199 Review: Cheribundi Cherry Juice MixersForget acai and yumberries. Cheribundi is doubling down on good old fashioned cherries as a juice and a cocktail mixer. We sampled a flotilla of cherry juice-based concoctions. Thoughts follow.

Cheribundi Cherry Juice – 100% juice (mostly cherry, with a bit of apple juice added for sweetness), so you better prepare your palate for the tart rush of authentic, smashed cherries. (The company says there are 50 cherries in an 8 oz. mini-bottle. Sour-sweet, authentic, and a big rush of fruit. Use sparingly as a mixer. 130 calories. A- / $12 for four 8 oz. bottles

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Review: Harvest Spirits Core Vodkas, Liqueurs, and Brandies

harvest spirits farm distillery 300x202 Review: Harvest Spirits Core Vodkas, Liqueurs, and BrandiesHarvest Spirits Farm Distillery, in Valatie, New York, focuses like so many other operations in this region on using local fruits to produce artisinal, farm-to-bottle spirits. The lineup below represents a full farmers’ market of goodies. Thoughts on the bulk of Harvest Spirits’ production follow.

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Review: Absolut Hibiskus Vodka

ABSOLUT HIBISKUS vodka 224x300 Review: Absolut Hibiskus VodkaHibiscus flowers are the improbable Next Big Thing in spirits flavoring, and now Absolut is getting into the business with this new vodka, continuing the succession of equally improbably-spelled liquors.

Absolut Hibiskus is infused not just with hibiscus flower but also with pomegranate, a wise choice that gives this vodka some much-needed sweetness. Absolut’s flavored vodkas, bottled at 80 proof, tend to be a bit burly and rough around the edges, making their flavor components somewhat difficult to perceive well.

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Review: Angel’s Envy Rye Whiskey

angels envy rye 172x300 Review: Angels Envy Rye WhiskeyAngel’s Envy is one of the best affordable Bourbons on the market, and now its mad master distiller, Lincoln Henderson, is raising expectations again with Angel’s Envy Rye, one of the best rye whiskeys on the market.

The mashbill will likely sound familiar to regular readers — 95% rye and 5% malted barley — the signature grain blend you’ll find in ryes from Bulleit, Dickel, and just about everyone else in the business who’s sourcing whiskey from LDI in Indiana (though AE will not confirm this). But as with AE Bourbon, Henderson has tricks up his sleeve to make this otherwise commodity whiskey his own. To wit: He finishes six-year-old rye (older than most already) for 18 additional months in Caribbean rum casks. (Those casks in turn began as Cognac barrels, making Angel’s Envy stop #3 on the road to boozedom. The Cognac is originally from Ferrand; the rum is a 10-plus year old bottling from Barbados, part of Ferrand’s Plantation Rum XO 20th Anniversary release.)

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Review: Three Olives “Loopy” Vodka

three olives loopy 102x300 Review: Three Olives Loopy VodkaNot getting enough froot in your diet? Now you can up your intake with one of the nuttiest vodka flavors to hit the market yet: Three Olives’ “Loopy” Vodka.

Designed specifically to taste (and look) like a certain breakfast cereal, Loopy is unmistakable when you crack open the bottle. The aroma of sugared, berry-flavored cereal is dead-on uncanny as you pour out a glass. Whoever concocted this flavor (it’s natural, people!) deserves a medal.

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Review: Sammy’s Beach Bar Rum

sammys beach bar rum 228x300 Review: Sammys Beach Bar RumSammy Hagar conquered rock music. Then he conquered tequila. Then Mexican food. Now: Rum.

The liquor mogul is expanding into the rum business courtesy of this tropics-friendly bottling, a white rum made from first-press Hawaiian sugar cane that is pot-distilled in small batches. It’s aged for two years, then filtered to remove color.

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Review: Four Roses 2013 Limited Edition Single Barrel Bourbon

Four Roses Limited Edition Single Barrel 2013 202x300 Review: Four Roses 2013 Limited Edition Single Barrel BourbonThis year’s Single Barrel release from Four Roses trots out the OBSK (high-rye) recipe at 13 big years of age.

Slightly older than the usual Single Barrel bottlings (typically 11 or 12 years old), this release is a monster whiskey. If you’ve been waiting for something incredibly bold from Four Roses, wait no longer.

Four Roses 2013 Single Barrel is a bruiser, punchy with cinnamon, big wood notes (particularly heavy on the nose), and a long, sweet, applesauce finish. Bold and spicy on the finish, this whiskey doesn’t let up. Moments after the sweetness starts to fade, a big, Bing cherry note jumps out at you, leaving this whiskey, woody up front, with a distinctly fruity finish. Unique and lots of fun, it’s altogether another winner in a long string of outstanding spirits from Four Roses.

Sample bottles were bottled at a fiery 120 proof — water was a huge help in coaxing out the Bourbon’s most interesting notes. Actual bottle proof will be considerably lower: 100.6 to 114.4 proof, depending on the barrel. 4000 bottles will be released this April.

A / $80 / fourrosesbourbon.com

Review: Belaya Rus Vodka

Belaya Rus Premium Belarusian Vodka from Belarus 220x300 Review: Belaya Rus VodkaThis Belarusian vodka dates back to 1993, and hails from a 100-year-old distillery in Minsk. Distilled six times “for your pleasure” from a blend of 75% rye and 25% winter wheat, this budget brand offers lots of quality plus Eastern European street cred.

Belaya Rus (literally “White Russian”) is surprisingly easy, especially considering its birth in a former Soviet nation. The nose offers a bracing medicinal character balanced with sweetness — more like a sweet cream than typical sugar. On the tongue, more of the same, but leaning more toward the sweet side. The finish brings in some vanilla notes, and some slight nuttiness.

Those anticipating a bracing, Stoli-like character will find this a far different experience, milder, sweeter, and easier to both sip on and mix with. At all of 11 bucks a bottle, that’s a tough value to ignore.

80 proof.

A- / $11 / belayarusvodka.com

Review: Stone Enjoy By 4.20.13

F549219 10151483793367432 418125689 n e1365474256368 Review: Stone Enjoy By 4.20.13or those beer drinkers who can’t get enough hops, there’s nothing worse than opening an India Pale Ale and finding out that the bottle you just bought is several months old. Unlike some beer styles that can improve and mature with age, IPAs and other hop-forward beers are notorious for dropping off quickly because the hop qualities are one of the first aspects of a beer to fade. Unfortunately, not every brewery utilizes bottle dating to inform consumers about how old the beer they are buying actually is, which is a blight that most people have been burned by.

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Review: Admiral Rodney Extra Old St. Lucia Rum

admiral rodney extra old rum 173x300 Review: Admiral Rodney Extra Old St. Lucia RumThis bottle was given to me as a gift, brought back directly from St. Lucia. Bottled by St. Lucia Distillers, it is named after Admiral Georges Rodney, a British seaman who fought against the French in the 18th century.

This rum is continuous column distilled, then aged for an average of 12 years in American oak casks used at Jim Beam, Jack Daniels, and Buffalo Trace.

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Review: Highland Park Valhalla Collection – Loki

highland park loki 200x300 Review: Highland Park Valhalla Collection   LokiThe second release of Highland Park’s Norse God-inspired Valhalla Collection is upon us, this one inspired by the master of mischief, Loki.

While lighter in proof than the massive Thor, the 97.4 proof, 15 year old Loki is immediately hot and fiery. Even the nose brings a bit of a burn to the nostrils, offering thick, resinous wood and tar. The body offers that and more, plus some maritime sea spray character you get from Orkney malts. Lots of smoke here, too. Sweetness comes more from earthy honeycomb notes, and a touch of orange peel, too. And there’s just a touch of gingerbread on the finish. Lots going on.

The spirit is matured in both sherry casks and heavily peated casks, an homage to Loki’s chameleon-like nature and a nod to Highland malts, too. Unfortunately, all of the craziness going on here doesn’t entirely lend itself to a balanced spirit. Smoke and sweet can sometimes come together nicely, but here the burly forest fire character muscles out just about everything else, which is unfortunate. Ultimately, Loki has its moments, but as Scotch goes it’s got a few too many hands in a few too many fires.

B / $249 / highlandpark.co.uk

Review: Real Russian Vodka

real russian vodka 300x243 Review: Real Russian VodkaI once heard a story about a guy who had trademarked “Ice Cold” Vodka. Ice Cold was the brand name. Makes sense. Basically the same thing Miller did with the Lite brand.

Real Russian Vodka is either brilliant branding or incredibly misleading or both. It is made from an “authentic family recipe born over 100 years ago in Russia”… in Gurnee, Illinois.

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Review: Hotel California Tequila

hotel california reposado 199x300 Review: Hotel California TequilaNever mind the goofy name and goofier bottles. This is good, 100% agave, Highlands tequila that has partnered with the famous Baja hotel for its name and branding.

These are unusual bottles, to say the least. Mind the intriguing-looking yet wholly dysfunctional stoppers. The only thing harder than getting them out of the bottle (that tapered top makes gripping them impossible) is getting them back in.

All three expressions are reviewed below. All expressions are 80 proof.

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Review: Don Quixote Blue Corn Bourbon Whiskey

don quixote Blue Corn Bourbon 114x300 Review: Don Quixote Blue Corn Bourbon WhiskeyI am Don Quixote, a booze of La Mancha!

Chip Tate at Texas’s Balcones Distilling isn’t the only guy on the cob that’s using exotic blue corn to make Bourbon. Said to be especially difficult to work with due to its high oil content, blue corn makes for unique and memorable whiskey.

Made in New Mexico, Don Quixote is made from 75% local organic blue corn, 23% wheat, and 2% barley. The grains are naturally malted and uncooked before mashing. Made in a unique, moonshine-era “thumper” still, Don Quixote goes into new American oak barrels for four years before bottling.

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