Category Archives: Reviews

Review: Jameson Black Barrel Select Reserve Irish Whiskey

Jameson is one of the big darlings of the whiskey world right now — Irish is currently the fastest growing spirits category, and Jameson is at the top of the sales charts. We’ve long loved Jameson’s various incarnations, and now it’s out with a new one.

Jameson Black Barrel is mostly malted barley aged for considerably longer than standard Jameson — 12 years vs. 5 to 7, in both Bourbon and sherry casks. Then a touch of grain whiskey that’s been aged in Wild Turkey barrels is added to the mix. Bottling alcohol level remains at 80 proof.

While there’s nothing specifically “black” about Black Barrel, it’s a considerably different experience than standard label Jameson. The nose is rich, Bourbon-like, with vanilla and toasty oak notes. The body is creamy and impressively smooth, undercut with some citrus character likely brought on by the sherry cask influence. The finish offers grain notes, like a bowl of thick, raisined oatmeal, with a fleeting touch of smoke at the end. It’s night and day with regular Jameson, which is all fresh fruit and grass, with a menthol character to it. Black Barrel, side by side, very quickly overwhelms the regular bottling. As Irish whiskey goes, it’s almost decadent.

A- / $38 / jamesonwhiskey.com

jameson black barrel with box Review: Jameson Black Barrel Select Reserve Irish Whiskey

Review: L.A. Burdick Robert Burns Collection

What do you give a whisky lover as a romantic gift? Well, you can give him whisky… or you can give him whisky-infused chocolates.

Recently it was suggested (or rather I was accused) of enjoying whisky confections more than the whisky itself (not true, I swear), and reader John Bratincevic turned me on to this collection of Scotch-infused chocolates released for Robert Burns’ birthday (January 25) from New Hampshire-based L.A. Burdick. The company was kind enough to send a sample box my way, and I’m going to tell you, if you can get them (they’re limited release confections), do it.

These aren’t those cheap, foil-wrapped Cointreau and Kahlua cordials your grandma used to give you once you were in your 30s. This is the real deal: A 1/2 pound box of truffles and bonbons flavored with Lagavulin, Macallan, Talisker, Springbank, Highland Park, and Glenfarclas — some of my favorite names in Scotch whisky.

The assortment spans 7 different items (only one is an unnamed “honey whiskey”), with about four to six pieces of each. Picking a favorite is tough. They are all wonderful. But if pressed, I’d go with the Highland Park (dark ganache with scent of grapefruit) and, surprisingly, the Talisker (currant-hazelnut ganache), both of which are complemented beautifully by the hints of fruit added to the ganache.

You can really taste the whisky in all of these confections — though the still let the chocolate shine through — and the bonbons are small enough to allow you to eat three or four without feeling disgusting afterward. All of these truffles are fabulous solo,  and are even better with whisky — either their namesakes or something else.

As I write this, the collection is only available as part of a combo with a Lunar New Year collection or as a set of two 1/2 lb. boxes. Do yourself a favor and pick one up either for yourself or for someone you love.

A / $31 / burdickchocolate.com

burdick robert burns collection chocolates scotch Review: L.A. Burdick Robert Burns Collection

Review: Twisted Pine Ghost Face Killah

Touted as “the hottest beer this side of Hell,” Twisted Pine’s Ghost Face Killah takes a style of beer unknown to many (chile beers) and smashes any semblance of tame spice. Ghost Face Killah is brewed with six different types of peppers – including Anaheim, Fresno, Jalapeno, Serrano, and Habanero – but the calling card (and allusion to its name) is the inclusion of the Bhut Jolokia / Ghost Pepper. For those who don’t know, the Ghost pepper is about 170 times hotter than a jalapeño and 8.5 times hotter than a habanero and is more commonly used as a weapon within hand grenades and pepper spray than an actual culinary ingredient. Full disclosure: I am not much of a spice lover… When wanting to actually enjoy my food, the hottest I’ll go is probably Tabasco Habanero in terms of commonly available sauces, though I always enjoy trying spicier offerings.

Straight out of the bottle this couldn’t look less unassuming as it appears much like a mass-marketed light lager would with a pale yellow body and relatively meager head and retention. It is even surprisingly clear despite having a wheat base to it. It isn’t until you get your nose closer to the glass that you remember that this isn’t just any beer. A smorgasbord of chili and vegetal matter fills the aroma and obviously it is predominantly spicy, with the habanero and jalapeno surprisingly easy to pinpoint (although if I were more familiar with the other varieties here, it’d probably be possible to target them as well). I get maybe just the slightest notion of wheat and citrus, but I can’t say for sure if it’s my imagination or not.

This isn’t my first beer brewed with chili peppers, so I’m not exactly a stranger to heat in beers, but the first thing that comes to my mind when drinking this is “wow.” I don’t even have time to actually swallow my first sip before the heat kicks the door down. While other beers are a bit more subtle about it, the image on the label should tell you what this beer is all about. Any salvation the wheat could promise is swept away along with my tastebuds. The positive about this beer is that you can actually taste the peppers, although they sort of blend together rather than being easy to distinguish. But I hope you like heat because that and some pepper is all you’re getting here.

The impression left on the palate after this is both impressive and terrible. Impressive that such a small sip of this beer can leave such a lingering effect on the tongue and throat, and terrible because said effect is a vast amount of burning and numbing. The impression of this isn’t just a mouthfeel, but also a chestfeel and bodyfeel as even your extremities feel the power of the ghost pepper.

This is a beer in which a little goes a long, long way. I’ve had this glass in front of me for almost 30 minutes and I probably drank maybe 3 oz. The heat is intense, but after letting it mellow on the mouth, it gradually fades into a dull heat throb which isn’t so bad, actually. Honestly, I couldn’t imagine drinking a whole bottle of this solo. I am probably going to put the rest back into the bottle and either cook with it or disinfect the bathroom.

5.0% abv.

D+ (A for originality) / $3.50 per 12oz bottle / twistedpinebrewing.com

Twisted Pine Ghost Face Killah Review: Twisted Pine Ghost Face Killah

Review: Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Finish 1991 and Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 Scotch Whiskys

We love Gordon & MacPhail around here. One of the biggest and most reliable independent Scotch whisky producers, its selection is insightful and its releases are utterly vast, with perhaps more than 100 bottlings on the market at any given time. Keeping up with G&M would be impossible even if it wasn’t incredibly expensive, but we were lucky to get our hands on two new releases from the exquisite “Private Collection” series. Thoughts follow.

Gordon & MacPhail Linkwood Cote Rotie Wood Finish 1991 – This 20 year old Speyside whisky spends 30 long months in ex-Cote Rotie wine barrels. I’ve had mixed luck with Rhone Valley wine barrel finishes, but this one hits on all cylinders. Rich and smooth, velvety almost, it starts with honey, vanilla, and nougat notes, then brings on lots of eastern spices — cinnamon, cloves, and cayenne pepper. Citrus oil fades in and out, along with some malty grain notes at the end. Complex but beautifully balanced and a bargain for a 20 year old malt. 90 proof. 1900 bottles made. A / $80

Gordon & MacPhail Caol Ila Hermitage Finish 1997 – Take a 14-year old smoky Islay and finish it in Hermitage wine barrels for 30 months and what do you get? Well, it’s interesting but a little muddy: Heavy peat on the nose, and plenty more on the tongue. The Hermitage tries to cut through this, particularly in the finish, but what manages to get across is little more than some relatively undefined orange peel sweetness. The color — a deep amber — hints at a lot of fruit. I do think it’s in there. Somewhere. 90 proof. 800 bottles made. B+ / $80

gordonandmacphail.com

Sauvignon Blanc Worldwide: What’s the Difference?

Sauvignon Blanc is a grape that is grown almost everywhere in the world. And while the basic wine is almost always the same — unoaked, lots of acid, tropical fruit flavors — different regions spin this grape in different ways. Here’s a short and sweet look at world Sauvignon Blancs.

2010 Justin Sauvignon Blanc Paso Robles – Crisp apple notes in keeping with California Sauvignon Blanc’s traditional profile, with a steely, lightly mineral finish. Touch of pineapple and even coconut on the finish, too. Not a terrible amount of excitement or character here, but perfectly acceptable in a drink-it-with-Chinese-food sort of way. B / $15

2011 Chasing Venus Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough – Instantly New Zealand, the nose and palate are both chock full of pineapple and mango flavors, exotic tropical notes that are only hinted at in the California rendition of the grape. For many, NZ Sauvignon Blanc is off-putting because these characteristics are overwhelming to the point of being dessert-like. In this wine, you can see what they’re getting at. B- / $16

2011 Casa Silva Sauvignon Blanc Riserva Colchagua Valley – Turning to Chile, we see Sauvignon Blanc in a more restrained style. More melon on the nose, but the fruit is in the body. Milder pineapple, and some figs, too. Lots of acidity make this a crisp gulper, but do it a favor and let it warm up a bit to bring out the fruit. B+ / $12

Review: Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon

Like Maker’s Mark before it, Woodford Reserve has been known for producing one whiskey and — it’s annual, limited edition, special release whiskeys notwithstanding — one whiskey only.

Then Maker’s launched Maker’s 46, leaving Woodford the only solo shop.

Now Woodford is joining the club with Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon.

It’s a complicated process, but let’s explain, in Woodford’s own words: “The first Woodford Reserve barrel is crafted from oak that has seasoned out of doors for nine months and this is completely toasted and charred on the inside – like no other whiskey barrel in the world. The second barrel has been toasted for more than twice as long as the first fill barrel and is then very lightly charred – again unique amongst all the world’s whiskey barrels.  The secret to the Double Oaked character is in the second barrel. A custom crafted barrel with a heavier toast allows flavors of honey, cream, vanilla to be magnified and a light char gives elegant sweet aromatic notes.”

Side by side with the original Woodford, Double Oaked offers a whiskey that sticks close to the distillery’s classic style. Lots of cinnamon and raisin on the nose, with vanilla, light chocolate, and smoothed-over wood notes on the finish. Compared to the original, it is surprisingly not heavier on the wood character but rather smoother and more mellow, particularly on the finish. Woodford original has always been a touch on the tough, wood-heavy side, and here Woodford manages to dial it back. The unorthodox production method and ironic name choice notwithstanding, the choices are sound. While Double Oaked lacks some of that intense vanilla character on the finish that original Woodford has, it makes up for it with more nuance and a smoother ride.

I am hard pressed to pick a favorite, but ultimately I think Double Oaked is a slight improvement over an already fine whiskey. Both, by the way, are 90.4 proof.

A- / $50 / woodfordreserve.com

woodford reserve double oaked bourbon Review: Woodford Reserve Double Oaked Bourbon

Review: 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage

We last visited this wine with its 2007 vintage, but first a word on Banyuls. What is Banyuls? This is France’s version of Port, lightly fortified wines with alcohol added to stop fermentation while sugar is still in the system, leaving the wines sweet. Banyuls is less alcoholic than Port (this bottle is at 16% abv) and lighter in body, probably in part due to the use of Grenache grapes as the primary component.

By the way, Banyuls (pronounced ban-YULES), on the southernmost tip of France, along Spanish border near the Mediterranean, is also the home to a dry wine, typically named for the village of Collioure, which is in that territory. These wines are actually quite enjoyable, too, if you find one.

As for this sweet Banyuls from Les Clos de Paulilles, it has a picture of chocolate shavings on the label for a reason. The cocoa here is almost like a milk chocolate, smooth and with strawberry and some raspberry in the kicker. Very easygoing and not oppressively sweet, I expect some drinkers could easily mistake this for a fruitier Zinfandel.

B+ / $20 (500ml bottle) / clos-de-paulilles.com

Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage bottle Review: 2009 Les Clos de Paulilles Banyuls Rimage

 

Review: Samuel Adams Alpine Spring

Spring is nowhere near in the air just yet, but Samuel Adams gave us a sneak peek at its latest brew, Alpine Spring.

Sounds (and kinda looks) more like a shampoo or a body wash, but let’s not judge on name alone.

Sam Adams describes this unique brew thusly: “This beer has the balanced maltiness and hoppiness of a helles, the strength and smoothness of a bock, and the unfiltered haze of a kellerbier. Although it’s categorized as an unfiltered wheat lager, this one-of-a-kind beer transcends any one style, and the crisp, citrus flavor notes make it a perfect offering for spring.”

Ultimately it comes across mostly as a relatively traditional (albeit unfiltered — Sam Adams’ first) German-style lager, light in body and modest with the hops. Lots of flavor in here, citrus on the nose, with a moderately sweet body reminiscent of honey and caramel. The finish is lasting, recalling milk chocolate and gingerbread, with more orange peel bringing up the rear. Not so much refreshing as it is filling and almost dessert-like.

5.5% abv.

B+ / $8 per six-pack / samueladams.com

samuel adams Alpine Spring Bottle Review: Samuel Adams Alpine Spring

Review: Vida Tequila Blanco

vida tequila blanco 200x300 Review: Vida Tequila BlancoVida is a relatively new brand on the tequila scene, 100% blue agave and available in the usual expressions. We tasted the Blanco expression, which is a pure agave/unaged rendition.

This silver tequila is classic in structure. Some time in the glass is helpful at airing things out and letting some of the heavier agave notes out. Once they flitter away, Vida reveals itself to be a really fun and lively tequila, mildly sweet with fresh and granulated sugar character. Below that, plenty of apple and pear fruit, perhaps a touch of pineapple and banana. The finish: Very light caramel notes.

Nice balance, once that initial agave rush clears.

A- / $40 / vidatequila.com

Review: Captain Morgan Tattoo Rum

For a good time, do a Google Image Search for “Captain Morgan Tattoo.” You’ll find plenty of pictures not of this spiced rum but of unique and ill-considered body art on all kinds of anatomical bits.

I’ve actually had a mini of Tattoo for years. It’s that mysterious. What’s it all about? Tattoo is a spiced, “extra dark” rum with additional flavoring agents added. It is said to have been developed as a Jagermeister competitor, and pouring a shot reveals how that works.

It’s dark to the point of near opacity, with a heady nose of citrus fruit, raspberries, and a touch of classic vanilla rum character. Promising, perhaps, but a sip offers a cacophony of flavors, from the rough rum body to the heavy allspice and clove finish. The middle is pure molasses, those citrus notes being largely drowned out by all the other stuff going on here. What’s missing? Any sort of balance. Tattoo is a mess of a spirit, almost liqueur like and just too overblown  with additives to be a serious rum.

But as an ice-cold shooter to prime college kids for a night out? Well, maybe I can see where the Captain is coming from.

70 proof.

B- / $18 / captainmorgan.com

captain morgan tattoo rum Review: Captain Morgan Tattoo Rum