Category Archives: Gin

Review: Cricket Club Gin

From the out-there world of saffron gin we return to something more traditional, a relatively straightforward London style gin called Cricket Club (from the folks at Indio Spirits).

86 proof and crisp is a fresh apple, Cricket Club isn’t overly surprising. A moderate hand with the juniper helps some of Cricket’s other charms come through: Decent citrus, coriander, and — in a bit of whimsy from the distiller — a touch of lemongrass on the palate. The finish is dry and short, though it’s surprisingly sweeter than most other gins I’ve reviewed.

Cricket Club is a versatile gin that works in all kinds of cocktails because it’s so mild. If you don’t mind having on the bottle the name and image of a sport you’d probably never consider watching in your life, well then, have at it.

B+ / $23 / indiospirits.com

cricket club gin Review: Cricket Club Gin

Review: Gabriel Boudier Saffron Infused Gin

One look at Gabriel Boudier’s saffron gin and you are instantly intrigued. The king of the spice world married with spirits royalty?

The result is intriguing to say the least, but it’s unfortunately somewhere short of Grace Kelly and Prince Rainier. I tried a tiny sample of Boudier at last year’s WhiskyFest but now that I’ve got a full bottle to tinker with, I’m delving deeper into the juice.

First you’ll note the bright, Tang-like orange color. Alas, it’s not all from saffron: The product “contains certified color and FD&C Yellow #5,” which is kind of a letdown. There is saffron in the gin, however, along with the usual botanicals, plus the curious addition of fennel, too. So that’s a good thing.

And on to the tasting. The nose is surprisingly traditional, with juniper taking center stage and some citrus notes beneath that. But sipping is a different beast. The juniper fades away and the saffron becomes clearer. Yes, the fennel is also there, and together with the traditional gin notes it’s quite pleasant sipping on its own. Very mild, on the whole, but different than most other gins on the market.

Doesn’t work in martinis, however. Even sans olives, this just doesn’t marry well with vermouth. Leave it on its own or try with tonic, as Boudier recommends. Definitely a curiosity worth seeking out if your a gin fanatic.

80 proof. Imported from France.

B / $30 / boudier.com

gabriel boudier saffron infused gin Review: Gabriel Boudier Saffron Infused Gin

Esquire’s Best Cheap Booze

I expect to see lots of recession-minded lifestyle coverage in the upcoming months. Esquire magazine doesn’t disappoint with this roundup of the best cheap spirits — stuff that’s affordable but which you wouldn’t mind actually serving to guests. The winners: Paul Masson Grande Amber VSOP brandy, Brugal Anejo rum, White Horse Scotch, Gordon’s gin, and Evan Williams Black Label bourbon — a bottling that invariably wins the “cheap bourbon” roundup every time I’ve seen it done. Note to self: Get a fresh bottle and check it out. It’s only 12 bucks!

(Also worth noting from the piece: Never drink cheap tequila!)

Review: Organic Nation O-N Vodka and Gin

Organic spirits are a category that you just can’t stop. Organic Nation hails from Oregon’s Cascade Peak Spirits Inc., and Organic Nation Vodka and Gin are the company’s first two offerings. A ginger-flavored vodka and at least one whiskey (organic whiskey is decidedly rare) are coming in 2009. While we wait for those, we occupied ourselves with the initial bottles. These products are both certified Oregon Tilth Certified Organic, which the company says is the most restrictive organic certification in existence.

Organic Nation O-N Vodka – This 80-proof vodka is distilled from a blend of rye, wheat, and corn, and it’s smooth as silk. There’s no mistaking it: This is vodka, with a moderate nose of medicinal aromas, but from there, O-N gets much more complicated. A mild sweetness attacks the palate, and dessert notes of vanilla and cocoa wash over on the finish. Creamy and buttery — but with a pronounced bite — it is at once a traditional vodka and a modern one. Very limited availability. A- / $30

Organic Nation O-N Gin – This 86-proof gin is said to be one of only four organic gins in the world. Flavored with 12 botanicals, it’s non-traditional, including both black pepper and basil in the blend along with more typical gin components. You’ll definitely catch the basil in the mix, but the pepper is more elusive. Citrus is more prominent in the concoction, with a touch of bitterness on the finish. Another winning product and something for gin-lovers to try and seek out. A- / $30

organicnationspirits.com

organic nation vodka and gin Review: Organic Nation O N Vodka and Gin

Drinkhacker’s 2008 Holiday Gift Guide – Best Alcohol/Spirits for Christmas

What better gift is there than a bottle of booze? Not only will your giftee think you’re incredibly sophisticated, chances are he’ll let you drink a good amount of it before he realizes his terrible mistake. What’s the best booze to put under the tree this Christmas season? Of course you want to offer something a little unusual — something that your buddy couldn’t pick up himself on a routine trip to the grocery store, at least — but above all it has to be good. Here are my picks for the absolute best booze to give for 2008, split up by type (and with at least a few good, affordable options for the budget-conscious).

Bourbon – Eagle Rare 17 Year Old (2008 Edition) – $65 – An awesomely sweet bourbon that’s just the right age. Jump on this near-perfect spirit for yourself, too. For a bit more check out Four Roses Mariage Collection, though it can be tough to find. At just $40, Basil Hayden’s is always a worthy present that won’t break the bank and is on just about every liquor store shelf.

highland park 18 year 200x300 Drinkhackers 2008 Holiday Gift Guide   Best Alcohol/Spirits for ChristmasScotch – Highland Park 18 Year Old - $100 – Yeah, it’s expensive, but the quality is second to none — and other top picks released this year, like Glenlivet XXV, run twice as much money or more. HP18 is generally accessible in the market, and it’s sure to liven up any holiday gathering.

AbsintheObsello - $54 - The best absinthe on the market today is also one of the cheapest. This Spanish number is suitable for absinthe newcomers and veterans alike; it goes down easy while still offering complex, intricate herbal flavors. The new Pernod is also worth a look.

Gin – Whitley Neill - $30 – Some good gin to be found in 2008, but I like the African genesis story behind this unusual gin from Whitley Neill the best. Bluecoat‘s also good. Both are pretty widely available and will make any G&T fan perk up.

Vodka – Xellent - $40 – If you must give someone vodka this year (and really, I beg you to think a little more creatively), try this strikingly-bottled vodka from Switzerland.

rhum clement cuvee homere 21 241x300 Drinkhackers 2008 Holiday Gift Guide   Best Alcohol/Spirits for ChristmasRum – Rhum Clement Cuvee Homere - $85 - So many good rums out this year, but the Cuvee Homere Clement is too good not to recommend, and the bottle design alone makes it absolutely perfect for gift-giving. Hard to go wrong in this category though, with Zacapa, Oronoco, and Atlantico all good alternatives. Click the “rum” button at right for even more ideas.

TequilaJose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia Anejo 2008 - $100 – If you can find and afford it. Alternately try anything from the Cielo line, which is uniformly good from blanco to anejo.

Brandy – Delamain Extra de Grande Champagne - $399 – Didn’t try many brandies this year, but this number from Delamain was easily the best of them, among the top spirits I’ve ever had. Delamain also has a gift box of three of its cognacs in mini-bottles that would be a great gift.

Liqueur – Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur - $32 – Many iffy liqueurs came out this year, but Canton is an exception, by far the most intriguing of the category. You can add a few drops to just about any cocktail recipe and discover something new, and giftees will absolutely adore the packaging even if they never open it. St. Germain Elderflower Liqueur is another winning concoction that everyone totally loves.

Need another custom gift idea? Drop me a line or leave a comment here and I’ll offer my best advice!

Review: Gale Force Gin

One final look at the product line from Triple Eight Distillery — we’ve covered their vodkas and rum already. Surprise: Gale Force Gin may very well be the best thing the company makes. Then again, maybe that’s not such a shock. Nantucket bluebloods consume all the gin in this country already, so they’re probably just swell at making it, too.

If overpowering juniper isn’t your thing, you’ll love Gale Force. Yes, juniper is there. In fact it’s the predominant flavor in the gin. But the citrus notes are lush without being too tart. The finish is quite dry and crisp, but the mouthfeel is creamy and rich. The bite is very mild. Overall it’s a winner, working well in cocktails and even on its own. (At 88.8 proof, I was surprised how easygoing it was, even without water.)

The price may be a bit high for a spirit this simplistic, but there’s all kinds of gin drinkers out there, and those looking for a milder version of the classic would do well to consider it.

A- / $30 to $40 / ciscobrewers.com

gale force gin Review: Gale Force Gin

Event Report: WhiskyFest San Francisco 2008

It’s official: WhiskyFest is awesome.

Bouncing around the dozens of booths and hundreds of spirits being poured was tons of fun: More intimate than the enormous wine events and studded with wall-to-wall kilts. My final tally: 24 whiskeys tasted (plus a rum and a gin). That’s more than I was expecting to sample, but as I rode home on the train I figured I could have consumed quite a bit more and almost turned around to go back for a couple more glasses. But the day after, I’m certainly glad for my temperance, as I’m no worse for wear following the experience.

I arrived at the event with 10 minutes to spare in the VIP hour and, sadly, managed to find none of the VIP-special whiskeys before the hour expired. I was just too overwhelmed by the myriad choices to be sampled to try to track down who was pouring what spirit at what poorly-marked booth. I went from corner to corner of the tasting room at least four times and, in the end, still never managed to find a couple of the distillery booths that I’d been hoping to sample from. But though numerous whiskeys were absent from the tasting floor that had been supposed to be there, even more were on tap that hadn’t been indicated in advance.

As is my custom, here are ratings and notes on each of the spirits tasted, but, again, bear in mind these are snap judgments based on minuscule samples. It’s much harder to fashion an opinion on a whiskey with just a couple of sips vs. a wine, which generally reveals more about its quality in a shorter amount of time. When I review whiskey for the site I’ll often taste it over the course of several hours, sometimes tasting it multiple times over the course of a few days before writing a review. In a broader tasting, I’d expect some of these ratings to swing considerably up or down. That said, there wasn’t a “bad” spirit I tried last night.

Spirits are in mostly alphabetic order below, not the order tasted. Read on for the highlights!

WhiskyFest 2008 Full Report

  • Ardbeg Uigeadail, B+ / overpowering, heavy on the smoke
  • Arran Bourbon Single Cask, B+ / interesting but out of balance
  • Balvenie 17 year SherryOak, B / now off the market
  • Balvenie 21 year PortWood, A- / much sweeter than the Sherry, very lush
  • Beltrano’s Cask Highland Park 19 year, B+ / a private bottling of Highland Park (you’ll see a number of these throughout the report, some very good)
  • Bruichladdich Links 15 year Torrey Pines, A / great combo of peat and sweetness, with a curious finish
  • Duncan Taylor 1970 Glen Grant 37 year, A / my last whisky of the night, a chocolate brown Scotch perfect as “dessert”
  • Elijah Craig 18 year Bourbon, A- / packs a spicy kick
  • Gabriel Boudier Saffron Gin, B+ / really tough to taste a gin among two dozen whiskeys, not bad though
  • Glenfarclas 21 year, A- / with the 25 year, my favorite Scotches of the night
  • Glenfarclas 25 year, A / great vanilla and Sherry notes
  • Glenfiddich 18 year, A- / smoky sweet, nice balance
  • Glenfiddich 21 year, B+ / less impressive than the 18
  • Glengoyne 17 year, B+ / smoky nose gives way to smokeless flavor, very intriguing
  • The Glenlivet 21 year, A / a creamy vanilla monster
  • Gordon & MacPhail Port Ellen 25 year, B+ / full of phenol
  • Lagavulin 16 year, B+ / disappointing considering the reputation
  • Laphroaig 15 year, B+ / a surprisingly muted expression of Laphroaig, with a watery character compared to the norm
  • The Macallan 18 year Sherry Oak, A- / packed with Sherry flavor, classic Macallan
  • Rhum Clement X.O. Rhum Agricole, A- / sugary sweet and exotic, very interesting after lots of Scotch
  • Suntory Yamazaki 18 year, A- / very complex, really enjoyable
  • Tomintoul 27 year, A-
  • Pappy Van Winkle 20 year, A / best Bourbon of the night, a flavor bomb packed with spice and vanilla
  • Pappy Van Winkle 23 year, B+ / hotter than the 20 year, similar but with less flavor
  • Parker’s Heritage Collection Cask Strength Bourbon, B / a 10-year bourbon poured by Parker himself, amazingly hot
  • Parker’s Heritage Collection 27 year Single Barrel Bourbon, B+ / reportedly the oldest single-barrel bourbon on the market, really smooth

Review: Junipero Gin

Junipero is old school. Sipping it takes you back in time. You can imagine Churchill pulling down this stuff while trying to decide what to do about those friggin’ Nazis.

Junipero makes a really perfect gin martini: The juniper, as you’d imagine from the name, is up front yet not overpowering. But it’s more spicy than evergreen, so you don’t feel like you’re constantly belching up pine cones when you drink it. Of course there’s more to it than that, though, and Junipero, like most other gin makers, keeps its recipe secret. It’s hard to put your finger on much beyond some lightly bitter orange and lemon peel and something that gives it a kick of sweetness, but I can say that whatever Junipero puts in this gin, it works really well in the glass.

At the classic 94.6 proof, I was sure Junipero would be blazingly harsh consumed straight, but it wasn’t. Better, though, was to toss a few rocks in. As the ice melts, the water brings out the fruit peel flavors and mellows the juniper berry further. Win.

A- / $33 / anchorbrewing.com [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS!]

junipero gin Review: Junipero Gin

The Mystery of “Overproof” Gordon’s Gin

Reader Peter May writes:

I’m not so sure about what you say about Gordon’s Gin (in the Vesper cocktail) and — I’m not saying you are wrong, but I’d just like to chew the fat on this if that’s OK .

You mention about Gordon’s being reformulated from 94 to 80 proof. But are you talking about the Gordon’s exported to the USA? And are you talking US proof or British proof?

As you know Fleming was British and would have been used to the Gordons on sale in the UK. As far as I recall in the seventies in the UK (I wasn’t drinking booze in the ’50s) it was 70 proof (British) I believe the reason that 70 proof was used for most spirits, whisky, gin etc, was because under UK tax laws a higher tax rate was levied above that. 70 proof UK equals 40%abv.

Now we could postulate that since the cocktail was made in France (in the book) it was an export version, or because he wrote the book in Jamaica it was an export version, but I’d guess that he was talking about a drink he’d made or tested back home.

Excellent points, Peter. I’m looking at the recipe from a U.S. standpoint, where Gordon’s is currently sold at 80 proof, which is 2x the Percentage Alcohol by Volume, or 40%.

On doing some more research into the matter I found that the UK went to the 2x%ABV labeling method in 1980 but was on the odd British maritime standard before that point. So you are likely right that 94 proof in the UK in the 1950s would have been very close to 80 proof by today’s labeling standards. However, my speculation is that when people refer to 1950s Gordon’s as being “94 proof” they are actually doing the modern conversion and are not referring to what it would have said on the label at the time.

However things get more complicated: Regardless of what the actual alcohol content of the gin was in 1953, Gordon’s did indeed reduce its alcohol content in 1974 (to 86 proof) and again later in the late ’70s to 80 proof. (All per U.S. label standards.) This was part of a huge (and very unpopular) worldwide shift to lower-proof spirits around that time. Literally hundreds of spirits dropped their alcohol content in the ’70s, mainly to save money during a long-running weak economy for distilled spirits and to lower the taxes they had to pay on each bottle. This is probably why you remember so many spirits being 70 proof: This was after the reformulation and before the massive switch to the American labeling system in 1980 (when they would have then become 80 proof).

That trend has reversed in recent years; now you’ll find a number of gin brands on the market that are back to, you guessed it, 94 (or 94.6) proof. This is now a common target for modern gins (even Tanqueray is 94.6 proof), so I’m inclined to believe that, whatever the translation would have been in Britain in the 1970s (about 82 proof by my math), it would have been the traditional proof level for gin.

The bottom line is that the Gordon’s recipe hasn’t actually changed in all these years, just the amount they water it down before it goes into the bottle. I don’t know exactly what the alcohol content of a bottle of Gordon’s gin consumed in Jamaica would have been in 1953, but I think it’s still safe to say that it was almost certainly different than it is today, and was very likely higher.

Review: Brave Spirits Rum, Vodka, Whiskey, Gin

Want to celebrate Independence Day? Well, you can go to a parade, eat a hot dog, light some fireworks, or drink one of these liquors from Brave Spirits, four bottles designed specifically with “soldiers, marines, airmen, police officers, and firefighters” in mind. Presumably you can drink them even if you are not one of these professions… and if you do, the company will donate $2 per bottle toward charities that benefit our men and women in uniform.

As kitsch goes, Brave Spirits are unabashedly off the charts. Just look at the bottle. Not just the red, white, and blue motif; the bottles are shaped like soldiers standing at attention.

But it’s foolish to judge a booze by its bottle. Let’s take a spin and taste what’s inside and be as honest as possible.

Overall, the Brave Spirits line is not much to write home about. It’s not so much that any of these spirits are bad, but that they’re merely undistinguished. At $20 a bottle (though I’ve yet to see any of these on sale anywhere; right now they are only in Pennsylvania and a few military bases), rest assured you’re not drinking swill, but while those looking for party mixers won’t mind the spirits, connoisseurs will probably be unimpressed.

All four are made entirely in America (more on that in a bit) and are bottled at 80 proof. Here are some notes on each in turn.

Valor Vodka – Distilled from “grains chosen from the fields of the Great Plains” and thrice distilled, this is a very plain vodka. Medicinal notes are the only noteworthy component of the flavor, and even that is weak and a little watery. Probably fine with lots of fruit juice. Not for straight consumption. C

Standing Guard Gin – Catching a theme in the naming convention here? This gin actually has overseas juniper in it (gasp!) but is otherwise U.S.-made (including “Florida’s oranges.” Less juniper is rarely a bad thing in gin, and Standing Guard isn’t bad. Again, weak is alas the key descriptor, though you can definitely get a taste of the orange content here. A more sarcastic critic might say that makes it perfect for Gin & Juice. B-

First In Whiskey – It’s made in Kentucky but it’s not a bourbon: First In is 72.5 percent grain neutral spirits and bottled in New Jersey. The aged portion of the blend is put into barrels for at least four years, but it’s not enough to impart much more than a light vanilla and woody overtone to the spirit. Even with Coke it’s not quite right, the flavor is just too understated. C+

At Ease Rum – That’s right: American rum! Hey, anyone can get hold of molasses, so why not American-made rum? The aroma isn’t sweet, but almost as medicinal as the vodka. The flavor is quite different and actually has some good, sweet rum character to it. Not bad with Coke, and even palatable as a sipper. The smell is a little off-putting, though, which is unfortunate. B-

So there you have it. Now get out there, drink, and blow something up.

$20 each / bravespirits.com

brave spirits Review: Brave Spirits Rum, Vodka, Whiskey, Gin

Classic Recipe: The Vesper

In 1953, Ian Fleming wrote Casino Royale, and had James Bond invent his own drink, which he called the Vesper, after a character in the book. The drink made a new appearance in the previous Bond movie of the same name, with Daniel Craig rapid-firing the recipe to a waiter so quickly I’m amazed he got what he ordered. Anyway, the drink made a sort of comeback after its Bondly appearance… here’s how Fleming wrote it in the book.

“Three measures of Gordon’s, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it very well until it’s ice-cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?”

I write that here because it’s one of the few old recipes I’ve seen that, speaking specifically, includes ingredients none of which you can actually get any more. Now that’s unusual.

Let me explain. First, Gordon’s gin was reformulated from 94 proof to 80 proof (or less). The vodka would have strictly been Soviet-bottled and overproof. And Kina Lillet, as I discussed yesterday, has long since been put to pasture.

So, you can make a Vesper with substitutes today, but it won’t taste much like it did in 1953. Finding overproof gin and vodka aren’t tough, but the Kina Lillet is a deal breaker. You can try it with Lillet Blanc, but you won’t even approach the bitterness that Bond would have been looking for.

I made one with commonly available substitutes and the taste was… well, a lot like a not-very-dry gin martini. The addition of vodka doesn’t do much considering so much gin in the glass, and the Lillet Blanc doesn’t make a terribly different impression vs. dry vermouth. The real difference most modern martini drinkers will notice is the lack of olives. To me, it’s just not a martini without a bunch of ‘em adding their salty, meaty flavor to the mix.

Try one for yourself and, if you can’t channel Bond, well, at least try to think of Moneypenny.

vesper Classic Recipe: The Vesper

Review: Bluecoat American Dry Gin

A little primer for gin novices: Though there are numerous types of gin, but the vast majority sold is called London Dry Gin. Bluecoat is an American Dry Gin. The difference (putting aside their national origin) between London and American gin (not that there’s a lot of gin made here) is generally one of flavor. The further you get from Londontown, the less juniper you’re likely to find in your gin.

Bluecoat, distilled in Philadelphia and packaged in a striking blue bottle, has the immediate aroma of juniper, and won’t disappoint anyone looking for a good-old gin and tonic to start the evening. But gin aficionados will dig Bluecoat’s more interesting flavor profile, one which you don’t get out of traditional gins.

It’s immediately apparent when you take the first sip: There’s a strong and surprising mint character, something I’ve never really found in a gin. You also get a moderately strong flavor of lemon, and still that upfront — but not overpowering — juniper taste. Distilled five times in a custom copper pot and bottled at a whopping 94 proof, Bluecoat is quite clean and not nearly as fiery as its alcohol content might indicate. Overall, it’s a very good gin.

Bluecoat doesn’t publicly announce all of its ingredients, but the aromatic botanicals, including juniper, orange, lemon, and a secret third citrus peel, are all organic. The base spirit, I’m guessing, isn’t organic (as the gin itself isn’t marketed as such), but it’s clear that Bluecoat has taken a lot of pains to put only the best quality ingredients it can find into that bright blue bottle.

A- / $36 / bluecoatgin.com [BUY IT NOW FROM CASKERS]

bluecoat gin Review: Bluecoat American Dry Gin

Review: Whitley Neill London Dry Gin

For a spirit inextricably associated with England, how surprising it was to read on the bottle of Whitley Neill gin: “Inspired by Africa.”

Apparently Mr. Neill’s (Johnny Neill, actually) wife is originally from Africa, which is why a baobab tree appears on the label and in the bottle, in the form of its fruit used as a flavoring. As well, Cape gooseberry joins gin’s seven other traditional botanicals (the most notable of which is juniper), to round out a pretty unique gin.

Bottled at 84 proof, this is a surprisingly mellow gin, not nearly as harsh as some juniper-heavy spirits. Mind you, I have no idea what baobob fruit tastes like (the company says it’s primarily a heavy citrus flavor), but it certainly seems to lend something to this gin, a subtle earthiness that you normally don’t often find in the spirit (though perhaps that’s just more angelica root than usual?). The gooseberry is a little easier to pick out: Gooseberry is an extremely tart berry, and even in the small quantities it must be used here, it’s still evident.

Good stuff. It works well in tonic, martinis, or fruit-based cocktails. (Distribution in the U.S. just now beginning.)

A- / $30 / whitleyneill.com

whitley neill gin1 Review: Whitley Neill London Dry Gin

Review: New Amsterdam Gin

Even old New York was once New Amsterdam. However, New Amsterdam gin is made in good old Modesto, California (not Constantinople). It’s also a surprising twist on gin as you might know it now. Why they changed it, I can’t say. Maybe they like it better that way.

OK, enough tomfoolery. New Amsterdam has the juniper nose of Tanqueray, but one sip is something entirely different. Namely, the juniper is suppressed and the citrus, namely orange, is really pumped up. If it weren’t for the juniper undertone and the strong aroma of juniper, I’d have thought I was drinking an orange-infused vodka instead of gin.

That’s bad news for a Martini (unless you like yours with a twist instead of olives) but good news for fruit-oriented cocktails like the Casino. Most of New Amsterdam’s cocktail ideas are heavy on fruit like watermelon or guava. Sounds like the right idea to me.

If you’re looking for a gin for drinking straight (or nearly so in a Martini), look elsewhere. But for mixing into more exotic cocktails, New Amsterdam is a solid (and very affordable) choice.

B / $14 / newamsterdamgin.com

new amsterdam gin Review: New Amsterdam Gin

Tasting Report: Plymouth Sloe Gin

plymouth sloe gin 225x300 Tasting Report: Plymouth Sloe GinSloe Gin Fizzes were the first cocktail I mastered, but it’s been years since I’ve had one. No reason why, really. Sloe gin, a liqueur flavored with sloe berries, the fruit of the blackthorn tree, has hardly seen the renaissance that other spirits have in recent years. There hasn’t exactly been a clamoring for the stuff in the market.

Well, Plymouth (which I’m on record as stating, unequivocally, makes the best gin on the market) is trying to change that by introducing a premium sloe gin, perhaps the first of its kind. Plymouth threw a swanky party for its new bottling last night at Bourbon & Branch here in San Francisco, and I was fortunate enough to try the spirit along with a number of cocktails made with it.

First, a bit more about sloe gin: It’s made by steeping sloe berries in gin (Plymouth gin, of course), and watered down to 52 proof. 26 percent alcohol makes it a pretty standard liqueur rather than a true gin, so plan accordingly. Served straight, it’s quite tart, really too sour to enjoy on its own, but in cocktails it really shines.

Sloe gin’s natural habitat is the Sloe Gin Fizz, and in its preparation here (with fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, fresh egg white, and a splash of club soda) it was a real delight, creamy, with a good mix of sweet and sour. In a good cocktail, sloe gin tastes a lot like cranberry, and in The Wibble (recipe below), you get the essence of sloe gin at its best. This concoction, which includes grapefruit juice and blackberry liqueur, is like a Cosmo on steroids. Really good.

southside 300x225 Tasting Report: Plymouth Sloe GinAmazingly, the addition of sloe gin to gin and Campari made the “Sloegronie” impressively drinkable, still quite bitter, but much better than a real Negroni. Finally, I finished up the night with Plymouth’s Southside (pictured, because it was so cool looking), which actually didn’t include sloe gin at all. Essentially a Mojito with gin instead of rum, I was impressed with how much more interesting this now-tired drink could be. Sub in lemon for lime and add a shot of sloe gin and you’ve got a Sloe Gin Genie (pictured at top, next to the bottle). I’ll give it a try when I get a bottle of my own to play with.

Plymouth Sloe Gin isn’t quite yet available in the U.S. yet, but keep an eye out for it. (If it’s sold at the same price here as it is in Britain, it’ll run about $35 a bottle.)

The Wibble
1 oz. Plymouth Gin
1 oz. Plymouth Sloe Gin
1 oz. freshly squeezed grapefruit juice
1/4 oz. freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/8 oz. simple syrup
1/8 oz. Wild Blackberry Liqueur (Creme de Mure)

Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist.

sloe berries Tasting Report: Plymouth Sloe Gin

Review: G’Vine Gin

The name may sound like a gangsta rapper, but this premium gin isn’t something you’ll want to be mixing with OJ.

Made in France and distilled from grapes, this is not your father’s Tanqueray. The juniper flavor, a requirement of all gins, is there, but it’s substantially mellowed in G’Vine. In fact it’s lemon peel that is the strongest flavor in this gin, with orange peel following. Juniper, I’d say, brings up the rear. You can get the other botanicals (G’Vine claims nine total, none of which are lemon or orange) with extended sipping: G’Vine makes for a great martini or mixing with other citrusy cocktails. The overall taste is very fresh, with a clean finish.

At $33, G’Vine is expensive next to similarly flavored Plymouth and even Bombay Sapphire, but if you’re a true gin lover, you’ll probably find it worth the price.

A- / $33 / g-vine.com

gvine Review: GVine Gin

New Recipe: The (Indian) Summer Tonic

A friend was having heartburn so I mixed up this as a curative: Ginger ale, bitters, and aromatics are all good for the stomach. The other stuff just tastes good.

The (Indian) Summer Tonic
1 oz. gin
3/4 oz. creme de cassis
1/2 oz. melon liquer (or Midori)
2 dashes orange bitters
ginger ale

Add the first four ingredients to a tall highball glass over ice, fill with ginger ale. Stir to blend or leave it separated for a nifty color effect. Garnish with an orange wedge or wheel. (I used a Grand Marnier-soaked orange slice.)

Use ginger beer for a stronger spice kick.

The drink is exceptionally light and is perfect for afternoons and hotter days. It’s also great for your less tipsy friends who don’t want something too alcoholic, but it’s also not super sweet like so many “girly” drinks. Don’t be afraid of the Midori, people.

indiansummer New Recipe: The (Indian) Summer Tonic

New Recipe: The B.B.C.

As part of my blueberry kick, and largely by happenstance, the good folks at Beefeater sent along some recipes for what they’re trying to kick off as “sharp’ners,” defined as “a London term for a quick, social drink that allows friends to connect without committing an entire evening.” The idea is that “getting a drink” has come to mean having four or five drinks and getting smashed out of your gourd. With a sharp’ner, you’re meant to have just one and then split for the door, because you have a life apart from your drunk friends.

This one caught my eye and I tried it out for you:

The B.B.C. (Beefeater, Blueberi, Cranberry)
2 parts Beefeater Gin
1 part Stoli Blueberi
3 parts Cranberry Juice

Pour ingredients into a shaker filled with ice. Shake vigorously and strain into martini glass. Garnish with a lime twist.

I had no limes and no Beefeater (I used Plymouth), and used a cranberry-pomegranate juice blend, but the whole affair came together nicely. It’s fairly sweet but not too sweet, and indeed you really feel like you’ve had “enough” after one. Though I do not mean that in a bad way at all. It’s sharp!

You can add your name to Beefeater’s petition to have dictionaries recognize the new term if you’d care to at www.houseofbeefeater.com.

bbc New Recipe: The B.B.C.

Sleeper Cocktail: The Casino

Long one of my favorite drinks, you’ll be lucky if you visit a bar that can make a proper Casino. A full three of the ingredients are uncommon to rare in all but the swankiest of establishments… but if you find one on the specialty menu of that fancy restaurant you’re dining at, try one. You won’t be sorry.

The Casino is a lot of gin with some subtle but crucial flavorings. Maraschino (cherry liqueur, mainly from Croatia) gives it a well, cherry bite. Lemon juice makes it tart, cutting the alcohol very well. Orange bitters add a little je ne sais quoi, and a brandied cherry provides the perfect way to polish the thing off.

The Casino
2 oz. gin (I prefer Plymouth or Bombay Sapphire)
1/4 oz. Maraschino liqueur
1/4 oz. fresh lemon juice
4 dashes orange bitters

Shake all the ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a brandied cherry (a maraschino cherry will work in a pinch, but it’s not the same). (Add a tiny bit of the brandy liquid from the cherry jar into the drink to give it a nifty pinkish tone.)

You can find Maraschino in most liquor stores and orange bitters are becoming more common these days. Fee Brothers can tell you where to get their fine product in your area if you email them. I found brandied cherries at my local upscale market, in the preserves aisle, but you can even order them from Amazon.

Some notes: This cocktail is also called an Aviation, typically without the bitters or the cherry. You’ll also see the proportions vary wildly: Many online recipes will say you should put 1/4 teaspoon each of lemon juice and Maraschino in the drink, but that’s way too little to counter a full 2 ounces of gin. 1/4 ounce (about 1 1/2 teaspoons) is far more appropriate and makes a much tastier drink.

I’ve also tried this drink with lemon-infused vodka, but it doesn’t taste as good. The aromatics in the gin really make the Casino sing. Use a gin that doesn’t have too much juniper in it: Tanqueray is awful in a Casino.

casino Sleeper Cocktail: The Casino