Review: 2008 Olson Ogden Pinot Noir Manchester Ridge Mendocino
This Mendocino pinot noir has a very light body, but it's balanced by a little smoke, some nice wood notes, and a jammy finish, giving it more complexity than you might think. A little subdued at first blush, it opens up nicely with some time exposed to air. Easy to drink now, if you can find it -- just 115 cases were made.
A- / $38 / olsonogdenwines.com
Tasting Report: Olson Ogden 2007 Wine Lineup
Our friends at Olson Ogden were kind enough to send their full lineup of 2007 wines for our review now that they're on the cusp of actually being released. I've tried four of the five at wine events previously and found that in most cases I found the wines had improved after a few months in bottle. My favorite of the winery's syrahs remains the Unti Vineyard bottling, a big and powerful syrah that should stand several years of cellar time if you'd like.
But an even bigger surprise was the Russian River Valley pinot noir. I have always preferred Olson Ogden's syrahs to its pinots, but this pinot is now showing just about perfectly. Great wines all around -- get 'em while they last! Full ratings and comments follow.
2007 Olson Ogden Wines
2007 Olson Ogden Wines Sonoma and Napa Syrah / A- / straightforward, ready now (old rating: B+)
2007 Olson Ogden Wines Unti Vineyard Syrah / A- / jammy and vibrant (old rating: A)
2007 Olson Ogden Wines Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah / B+ / richer but showing more tannin (old rating: A-)
2007 Olson Ogden Wines Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast / B+ / tannic with a rich raspberry character (no prior rating)
2007 Olson Ogden Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / A / velvety with solid fruit character, classic pinot (old rating: B+)
Tasting Report: Pinot Days 2009
Hot weather and worse traffic conspired to make my trip to this year's Pinot Days a relatively abbreviated one, but I still had the chance to try nearly three dozen pinots from California and Oregon.
Favorite: Eric Kent's entire line (though one 2008 barrel sample wasn't nearly ready), a perennial Drinkhacker favorite, plus the wines of Oregon's Le Cadeau, which I'd never had before but found remarkably lively, fruit-forward, and wonderful to drink.
Lots of good wines to be had, and not a bad bottle all around. Complete ratings (apologies for any typos) follow.
Complete Tasting Report - Pinot Days 2009
Cal 2007 Black Kite Cellars Pinot Noir Redwoods Terrace / B
Cal 2007 Black Kite Cellars Pinot Noir Stony Terrace / B+
Ore 2005 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Winery Hill / B+
Ore 2006 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir Evenstad Reserve / B+
Cal 2006 Donum Estate Pinot Noir Carneros / A-
Cal 2007 Donum Estate Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / B
Cal 2007 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Stiling / A-
Cal 2007 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Windsor Oaks / A
Cal 2007 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Small Town / A-
Cal 2008 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Stiling / B
Cal 2008 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Pinot Noir Small Town / A-
Cal 2006 Hitching Post Wines Pinot Noir Highliner / B+
Cal 2006 Hitching Post Wines Pinot Noir Perfect Set / B+
Cal 2007 Hitching Post Wines Pinot Noir Cork Dancer / A-
Cal 2006 Hitching Post Wines Pinot Noir Sta. Rita's Earth / B+
Cal 2007 Jim Ball Vineyards Pinot Noir / A-
Ore 2007 Le Cadeau Vineyard Pinot Noir Cote Est / A-
Ore 2007 Le Cadeau Vineyard Pinot Noir Equinoxe / A
Ore 2007 Le Cadeau Vineyard Pinot Noir Rocheux / A-
Cal 2007 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Central Coast / A-
Cal 2007 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast / A-
Cal 2003 Michaud Vineyard Pinot Noir / B
Cal 2004 Michaud Vineyard Pinot Noir / B+
Cal 2006 Olson Ogden Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / B
Cal 2007 Olson Ogden Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / B+
Cal 2007 Roessler Cellars Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict / B
Cal 2007 Rusack Vineyards Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills / B+
Cal 2007 Rusack Vineyards Pinot Noir Santa Maria Valley / B+
Cal 2007 Sanford Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills / A-
Cal 2007 Sanford Pinot Noir La Rinconada Vineyard / B+
Cal 2007 Sanford Pinot Noir Sanford & Benedict / B+
Cal 2006 Skewis Wines Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast / A
Cal 2006 Skewis Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley / A-
Tasting Report: Rhone Rangers, March 22, 2009
I'm on record as saying Rhone Rangers is the best annual wine event going, and once again the event failed to disappoint. Yes, it was smaller than last year -- as you'd expect given the economy -- with both the number of wineries and attendees obviously down a bit. (Prices, curiously, have not fallen.) Still, there was plenty of wine to go around -- far more than one man could experience in the roughly three hours I spent on the floor -- and most of it very good.
Most wineries were pouring from the 2006 vintage, but I saw everything from 2003 to 2008 barrel samples being poured. Overall thoughts: It's a very good year, but quality is going to vary widely based on the producer and, more importantly, the location of the vineyard.
Visited some old friends. Olson Ogden didn't disappoint: though its 2006 Unti Vineyard wasn't showing as well today, its just-bottled 2007 Unti was a highlight of the show (and an amazing value). Four Vines didn't bring its Amador County Syrah this year, but I greatly enjoyed the company's other single-vineyard syrahs from One Tree Hill and Killer Canyon. And as usual, Peay's La Bruma was a standout, though I like the Les Titans less this year.
Also made some new wine friends this year, with L'Aventure, Saddleback, and Skylark making strong impressions with ripe, fruit-forward syrahs and Rhone-style blends.
My detailed notes are lacking, but I tried to make up for that with volume, hitting 45 different bottlings this year. Full report follows!
Rhone Rangers 2009 Complete Report
2005 Bink Wines Hawks Butte Vineyard / $32.00 / B+
2006 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Syrah "Kalen's Big Boy Blend," Sonoma County / $42.00 / A-
2006 Eric Kent Wine Cellars Syrah Dry Stack Vineyard, Bennett Valley / $40.00 / A-
2006 Four Vines Syrah One Tree Hill Block, Los Alamos Vyd, Santa Barbara / $40.00 / A
2006 Four Vines Syrah Killer Canyon Vineyard, Paso Robles / $40.00 / A
2006 Four Vines Red Blend "Peasant" / $40.00 / A-
2006 Four Vines Red Blend "Anarchy" / $40.00 / B+
2006 Four Vines Petite Sirah "The Heretic" / $40.00 / B
2006 Four Vines Tempranillo "Loco" / $NA / B+
2006 Harrison Clarke Syrah "Cuvee Charlotte" / $55.00 / B+
2006 Justin Syrah / $26.00 / A-
2006 Justin Red Blend Savant / $45.00 / B
2006 L'Aventure Winery "Cote a Cote" Estate Red Blend, Paso Robles / $85.00 / A
2006 L'Aventure Winery Red Blend, Estate Cuvee, Paso Robles / $85.00 / B+
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Sonoma and Napa Syrah / $28.00 / A-
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Unti Vineyard Syrah / $38.00 / B+
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah / $52.00 / A
2007 Olson Ogden Wines Sonoma and Napa Syrah / $NA / B+
2007 Olson Ogden Wines Unti Vineyard Syrah / $NA / A
2007 Olson Ogden Wines Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah / $NA / A-
2007 Outpost Wines Grenache / $40.00 / A-
2006 Outpost Wines Petite Sirah "The Other" / $NA / B
2004 Palmeri Syrah Mountain Fruit / $53.00 / A-
2004 Palmeri Syrah Stagecoach Vineyard / $53.00 / A-
2005 Palmeri Syrah Stagecoach Vineyard / $53.00 / B
2004 Palmeri Syrah Van Ness Vineyard / $53.00 / A-
2005 Palmeri Syrah Van Ness Vineyard / $53.00 / B
2006 Peay Syrah La Bruma Estate / $45.00 / A
2006 Peay Syrah Les Titans Estate / $45.00 / B+
2006 Joseph Phelps Le Mistral / $45.00 / A-
2006 Prospect 772 Wine Company Syrah "The Brawler" / $36.00 / A-
2006 Prospect 772 Wine Company Red Blend "The Brat" / $36.00 / B+
2007 Saddleback Cellars Viognier Clarksburg / $23.00 / B
2006 Saddleback Cellars Syrah Carneros / $45.00 / A
2007 Skylark Wine Co. Red Blend "Red Belly" / $20.00 / B
2007 Skylark Wine Co. Red Blend "Les Aves" / $29.00 / B+
2006 Skylark Wine Co. Syrah Unti Vineyard Dry Creek Valley / $26.00 / B-
2006 Skylark Wine Co. Grenache / $NA / B+
2007 Skylark Wine Co. Syrah Rodgers Creek Vineyard / $NA / A-
2007 Skylark Wine Co. Syrah Stagecoach Vineyard / $NA / A-
2008 Villa Creek Cellars White Blend / $24.00 / B
2006 Villa Creek Cellars Red Blend "High Road" James Berry Vineyard / $60.00 / A-
2005 Zaca Mesa Winery Syrah Estate Santa Ynez Valley / $22.00 / B
2006 Zaca Mesa Winery Red Blend "Z Cuvee" Estate / $20.00 / B
2005 Zaca Mesa Winery Red Blend "Z Three" Estate / $40.00 / B+
Tasting Report: Sonoma in the City, May 22, 2008
Sonoma County's vintners threw an enormous event in a far-too-small and wholly-unorganized ballroom at San Francisco's Four Seasons this week, showcasing some of the areas wines (in fact, all 13 Sonoma County AVAs were represented). I only managed to taste a small fraction of the more-than-100 wineries pouring at the event, but some truly inspired wines were poured.
Some favorites: Of course, hat's off again to Olson Ogden Wines, who had not just two Syrahs (tasted previously at Rhone Rangers, with similar results) but also an outstanding Pinot Noir, too. John Olson (who deemed his not-yet-released Pinot too harsh for the time being; I felt it was perfectly fine) turned me on to his neighbor from MacMurray Ranch (purchased decades ago by the late, great actor Fred MacMurray and still run by his daughter Kate). I'd never had MacMurray's wines, but John was right: The soft Pinots were a knockout, and her Pinot Gris (a wine I'm normally not a fan of) was spot on, like a Sauvignon Blanc but full of perfume and flowery notes. Check out these wines when you see them.
Right down the line was Patz & Hall, whose Pinots I've had many times and which didn't disappoint this time, either. Their Chardonnay was also a fruit-punch knockout.
Other wines of note: Restaurant-staple Flowers had its non-vineyard-designated wines here, and both were good, though not great. Really enjoyed the lone Zinfandel I tried, from A. Rafanelli, but their Cab was even better. And finally, I wrapped things up at Chalk Hill, famous for its Chardonnay but pouring a Cabernet Sauvignon which I didn't even know existed. It might have been even better than its creamy, textbook, California Chard.
Kudos, by the way, to Benziger for putting all of its wine on a path for sustainable and biodynamic growing. Some wines are already certified organic, too. They're tasty, to boot.
Full ratings follow. Prices were not available at the event and aren't included here.
2008 Sonoma in the City Tasting Report
2007 Benziger Sauvignon Blanc - A-
2006 Benziger Pinot Noir "Signaterra" Bella Luna - A-
2005 Benziger Merlot Sonoma County - B-
2005 Benziger Red, Reserve - B
2005 Benziger Tribute - A-
2006 MacRostie Chardonnay Wildcat Mountain - B+
2005 MacRostie Pinot Noir Wildcat Mountain - B
2004 MacRostie Syrah Wildcat Mountain - B-
2006 Matanzas Creek Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma County - B
2006 Matanzas Creek Chardonnay Sonoma County - A-
2004 Matanzas Creek Merlot Bennett Valley - A-
2005 Matanzas Creek Syrah Sonoma County - B-
2005 A. Rafanelli Cabernet Sauvignon Dry Creek Valley - A
2005 A. Rafanelli Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley - A-
2003 Silver Oak Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley - B-
2006 Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc Estate Bottled - A-
2005 Chalk Hill Chardonnay Estate Bottled - A-
2003 Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Bottled - A-
2006 Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - A-
2006 Flowers Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - A-
2005 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Selection Russian River Valley - B-
2005 Gary Farrell Pinot Noir Allen Vineyard Russian River Valley - A-
2006 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Gris Sonoma Coast - A-
2006 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - A
2006 MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - A-
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Pinot Noir Russian River Valley - A
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Syrah Sonoma County/Napa County - A
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Syrah Unti Vineyard Dry Creek Valley - A
2006 Patz & Hall Chardonnay Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley - A
2006 Patz & Hall Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast - A
Tasting Report: Rhone Rangers, March 16, 2008
One of the most exhausting and exhaustive wine events around, San Francisco's "Rhone Rangers" celebration of Rhone-style wines (and only Rhone-style wines) was a huge hit last weekend. The only problem: With about 100 wineries in attendance, many pouring 6 or 8 wines at their tables, sampling even one wine from each winery is pretty much impossible. You have to choose your battles... so, apologies to those whose wines I didn't get to sample at the event. Here are some highlights of those whose wines I did get to try.
Four Vines (seen at right) had some interesting pours, but nothing was as charming as the Bailey Vineyard Syrah from, of all places, Amador County, rich with blueberry notes and wholly drinkable. Perhaps the best bottle of the whole event.
Also a serious highlight from the show: Longboard's 2005 Dakine Vineyard Syrah, a rich blend of 91% Syrah that includes all kinds of juice in small proportions, including 3% Zinfandel and 2% Malbec(!). Very complex but easy to drink. Definitely worth seeking out, along with its other bottlings.
Greatly enjoyed the opportunity to meet both Tim Olson and John Ogden of Olson Ogden Wines. Really nice guys with three great, fruit-filled wines. My favorite was the 2006 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah.
Andy Peay of Peay Vineyards was kind enough to correct a long-running Internet misconception about his winery. His name is really pronounced "Pay." Remember that when ordering his wines. They were excellent, with the lighter La Bruma ("the fog") Syrahs edging out, in my mind, the meatier, heftier Les Titans ("the giants"). All were great.
Met a very nice group at Prospect 772, whose "The Brat" and "The Brawler" earned their names. The raisiny Brat was my favorite, as the appropriately-nicknamed Brawler came across as a bit too young to be drinking today.
Rosenblum has long been known as a Zinfandel shop, and I was surprised to see they had a half-dozen Rhone style wines on sale now, too. In fact, they showed me a list of their full wine lineup, which stretches to about 70 different wines they are now producing, most very affordable and all pretty good. When I asked how they keep them straight, the woman behind the table just shrugged and said, "We just keep making more."
Also had a nice chat with the Australian transplants from Summerwood Winery. Their "Diosa" Red Blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre was my favorite from their Paso Robles winery.
Complete ratings for what I tasted follow. Cheers!
2006 Four Vines Paso Robles Syrah, $20 - B+
2006 Four Vines "Peasant" Red Blend, $40 - B+
2006 Four Vines "Anarchy" Unconventional Red Blend, $40 - A-
2004 Four Vines Syrah Amador County Bailey Vineyard, $38 - A+
2005 JC Cellars Caldwell Vineyard Syrah, $45 - A
2005 Justin Winery "Savant" Red Blend, $45 - A
2003 Longboard Vineyards Russian River Valley Syrah, $28 - A
2004 Longboard Vineyards Russian River Valley Syrah, $28 - A-
2005 Longboard Vineyards Dakine Vineyard Syrah, $48 - A+
2006 Miner Family Vineyard Simpson Vineyard Viognier, $20 - C+
2006 Miner Family Vineyard Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah, $48 - B-
2005 Morgan Winery "Tierra Mar" Syrah, $40 - B-
2005 Novy Family Winery Judge Family Vineyard Grenache, Bennett Valley, $26 - B
2005 Novy Family Winery Page-Nord Vineyard Syrah, $32 - B+
2005 Novy Family Winery Christensen Family Vineyard Syrah, $29 - B+
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Sonoma and Napa Syrah, $28 - A-
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Unti Vineyard Syrah, $38 - A
2006 Olson Ogden Wines Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah, $52 - A
2004 Palmeri Van Ness Alexander Valley Syrah, $53 - B-
2004 Palmeri Stagecoach Syrah, $53 - B+
2003 Palmeri Stagecoach Red Blend, $53 - B
2006 Peay Vineyards La Bruma Estate Syrah, $45 - A
2006 Peay Vineyards Les Titans Estate Syrah, $45 - A
2005 Peay Vineyards La Bruma Estate Syrah, $45 - A
2005 Peay Vineyards Les Titans Estate Syrah, $45 - A-
2005 Prospect 772 "The Brat" Red Blend, $36 - A-
2005 Prospect 772 "The Brawler" Syrah, $36 - A-
2006 Red Car Winery "Speakeasy" Syrah, $55 - B
2005 Red Car Winery "Shake Rattle and Roll" Syrah, $NA - B
2005 Rocinante Wines Palindrome Vineyard Syrah, $35 - A-
2007 Rosenblum Cellars Kathy's Cuvee Viognier, $18 - A-
2006 Rosenblum Cellars Fess Parker Vineyard Roussanne, $25 - A-
2005 Rosenblum Cellars Abba Vineyard Syrah, $25 - A-
2005 Rosenblum Cellars England-Shaw Vineyard Syrah, $35 - A
2005 Rosenblum Cellars Kick Ranch Reserve Syrah, $45 - A-
2005 Rosenblum Cellars Pickett Road Petite Sirah, $35 - A-
2006 Summerwood Winery Reserve Roussanne, $40 - B+
2006 Summerwood Winery "Diosa Blanc" White Blend, $45 - B+
2005 Summerwood Winery Red Blend GSM, $40 - A-
2005 Summerwood Winery "Diosa" Red Blend, $58 - A
2007 Summerwood Winery Viognier, $30 - A-
2006 Tablas Creek Vineyard "Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc" White Blend, $40 - A-
2006 Tablas Creek Vineyard "Esprit de Beaucastel" Red Blend, $45 - B+
