Tasting Report: Wines of Howell Mountain 2015

The annual “Above the Fog” tasting of wines from Napa’s decidedly inhospitable Howell Mountain region is a showcase for some of the most luxurious — and expensive — wines produced in California. This year producers showed off a wide range of bottlings ranging from 2009 to 2012 releases — with some library wines thrown in for good measure. While most are cabernets — in general, showing a little on the over-extracted side this year — a few other varietals can be found, including the first Howell Mountain pinot noir I’ve ever experienced. (And it was surprisingly good!)

Brief thoughts on all wines tasted at the event follow.

Tasting Report: Wines of Howell Mountain 2015

2010 Arkenstone Vineyards Obsidian / $135 / B+ / pushy, some spice and jam notes
2011 Black Sears Estate Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $95 / B / not quite ripe; surprisingly tart
2009 Bravante Cabernet Sauvignon Estate Howell Mountain / $75 / B / lots of oak and silky tannins with a chalky, earthy finish
2009 Bremer Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $90 / B / a bit thin, lots of chocolate, licorice, tart berries
2011 CADE Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain / $80 / B / complex, herbal notes and some wet earth
2012 CADE Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Reserve / $180 / A- / mushrooms, then leather and a touch of vanilla; very long tannic structure
2011 Cimarossa Rive Di Cimarossa Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $70 / B / some floral character, a bit of balsamic
2011 Cimarossa Riva Di Ponente Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $90 / B+ / broader berry and wood-heavy structure
2012 Clif Family Winery Howell Mountain Kit’s Killer Cab / $75 / B- / heavy earth, lots of tannin
2012 Clif Family Winery Croquet Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $110 / B+ / more lush and pretty, some violets
2011 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon White Label / $80 / B / lots of fruit on the nose, strawberry especially; very light body
2001 Cornerstone Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon White Label / $300 / A / amazing right now, soft as a pillow with florals and fruit in harmony
2012 Cresta Velia Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $65 / B+ / chocolate and caramel notes, dark black fruit jam, some flabbiness on the body
2011 Haber Family Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $120 / B+ / big fruit profile, lightly tart; easy drinking with modest tannin
2012 Hindsight Wines Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Bella Vetta Vineyards / $65 / B / some vegetal notes on the nose; caramel sauce on a slightly sweet body
2011 Howell at the Moon Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $85 / B- / intensely vegetal, tawny Port character
2009 Howell at the Moon Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Knoll Vineyard / $125 / B- / similar to above
2011 Howell Mountain Vineyards Howell Mountain Petite Verdot / $65 / A- / fresh and fragrant; lots of florals
2011 Howell Mountain Vineyards Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / B+ / chewy cedar box notes; leather oil
2011 La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / A- / licorice notes; chocolate; still drinking young
2003 La Jota Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $95 / A- / still fresh, well softened, some sweetness
2011 La Jota Howell Mountain Merlot W.S. Keyes / $150 / B+ / hugely floral with right fruit; a bit tart (24% cabernet)
2011 Lamborn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $100 / A- / lush and almost sweet with tons of fruit; silky and developing nicely
2010 Neal Family Vineyards Howell Mountain Estate Cabernet Sauvignon / $150 / B+ / densely earthy nose; lots of tannin, slight herbal edge
2012 Outpost Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / B / overbearing chocolate notes, big vanilla finish
2011 Pestoni Family Rutherford Grove Winery Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $75 / A- / lively fruit, some perfume notes; soft back end
2011 Pina Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon Buckeye Vineyard / $85 / A- / chewy with chocolate notes, big currants, tobacco leaf
2010 Press Cellars Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $60 / B- / some earth and funk here; licorice, coffee bean
2012 Prim Family Vineyard Howell Mountain Pinot Noir / $60 / A- / a real surprise; dense chocolate, exotic, baking spices and vanilla
2010 Prim Family Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / A- / somewhat softer than the ’09, nice balance
2009 Prim Family Vineyard Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / B+ / lots of fresh fruit notes, big jam, overpowered on the finish though
2010 Retro Cellars Howell Mountain Petite Sirah / $45 / B / menthol, some citrus notes; very fragrant
2012 Roberts + Rogers Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $100 / B+ / primarily a grape grower, not a winemaker (prices have been skyrocketing); intense, with deep tannins… give this one time
2010 SPENCE Howell Mountain 100% Estate Cabernet Sauvignon / $80 / A- / currants, cocoa powder; deep char notes
2010 Summit Lake Emily Kestrel Howell Mountain Cabernet / $60 / B / blue and blackberry notes; a little portlike; develops in time
2011 W.H. Smith Bronze Label Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $48 / B / quite herbal; slight Madeira notes
2011 W.H. Smith Purple Label Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon / $64 / B+ / softer, with blueberry fruit developing; some fig notes

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