This new blend comes from the Delicato family, and it’s a bit of a mutt of a wine: Five grape varieties (not sure which) from all over northern California go into an inky, deep purple, super-fruity concoction. Initially overpowering, it does open up to reveal more charming layers underneath its up-front punch — muddled blackberry, dark chocolate chunks, some walnut meat, beef jerky, and ample notes of wood. The big body and almost pungent finish doesn’t turn the wine into a sugar bomb (thankfully), but it does try to push this wine into competition with more austere bottlings. I’m not sure it gets there, but it’s a nice effort.
B- / $25 / delicato.com
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