Monthly Archives: December 2011

Review: Big Bottom Whiskey Port Cask Finish 3 Years Old

I liked Big Bottom’s 2 Year Old Port Cask Finished Whiskey so much I named it my top American whiskey of the year. What could be better then than Big Bottom Port Finished Whiskey, one year older?

With this second batch of whiskey, the Bourbon is older (3 years, one day) before it went into the Port casks, and it spends longer in the finishing barrels (4-5 months instead of 3-4 months). The barrels were also turned over more quickly: This time the finishing barrels spent only 30 days idle and empty; with batch one they were empty for about four months before the whiskey went in.

Those are the mechanical differences, what about the taste? I sadly don’t have any of the first batch of whiskey left, so comparisons are tough. But versus my notes and the similarly made Angel’s Envy, this is a whiskey where the wood is clearer in its influence, muting somewhat the Port character.

That said, the whiskey is spry and racy, spicy confection that balances sweet with lots of peppery spice, cinnamon, cloves, raisins, and with wood running through all of it. Great balance, but quite a different spirit. I like it almost as much as the original, which is evidenced by the fact that by the time I got to writing this review, my sample bottle was already empty.

91 proof.

A / $30 / bigbottomwhiskey.com

3 Year Port Cask Bottle Image Review: Big Bottom Whiskey Port Cask Finish 3 Years Old

Excuse Me, Do You Have Pussy in a Can?

Discovered this oddball energy drink at the train station in Munich. Turns out you can get away with a lot more here (of course) than you can in the U.S. I bought a can and frankly it’s not that bad. Flavored (strongly) with lychee, the exotic fruit drowns out the (all natural) active ingredients, including guarana, caffeine, ginseng, gingko, and some other stuff I can’t really read because it’s in German. Further analysis and commentary is left as an exercise for the reader. Additional reading: pussydrinks.ch

pussy Excuse Me, Do You Have Pussy in a Can?

Review: Rebel Yell Bourbon

Will Rebel Yell have you crying “More, more, more?”

Admittedly the name does not instill the confidence of high quality. Like Fighting Cock, perhaps, it connotes a rough and tumble Old West style. I poured a glass and prepared to be burned in more ways than one.

I was surprised to find that Rebel Yell is far more innocuous than its vocal name might imply. First off, it’s a wheated Bourbon, which invariably lends itself to more softness. While age isn’t disclosed, the whiskey does feel a bit young, and there’s a certain kick and brashness to be found in the raw grain character. But it’s not altogether rough, just a bit pungent.

Stepping back, Rebel Yell has largely classic wheated Bourbon characteristics: Vanilla, a lively undercurrent of cinnamon, and wood notes. That graininess lingers on the finish, but it isn’t unpleasant. For all its rough-and-tumble aspirations, Rebel Yell ultimately comes together as one of the lighter and simpler whiskeys I’ve tried in recent memory.

80 proof.

B+ / $13 / rebelyellwhiskey.com

rebel yell whiskey Review: Rebel Yell Bourbon

Review: NV J Vineyards Brut Rose Sparkling Wine

J Vineyards, in California’s Russian River Valley, is repackaging its nonvintage Brut Rose sparkler, in order to make its pinkness better known. Composed of 64% Pinot Noir, 34% Chardonnay, and 2% Pinot Meunier, it is aged for nearly three years before release. Residual sugar is 1.15%.

The color is lovely, a deep peach shade, and the nose is light with berry fruit. The body offers more depth, fairly heavy on the creamy bubbliness, with big red berry notes. Oranges are clear on the finish. That finishing acidity is bracing, inviting, and refreshing, just like a good rose sparkler should be.

A- / $28 / jwine.com

j vineyards brut rose Review: NV J Vineyards Brut Rose Sparkling Wine

 

Review: Fireball Cinnamon Whisky

“It tastes like heaven, burns like hell.”

Cinnamon spice isn’t usually what people have in mind when they say a whiskey “burns,” but this 66-proof flavored oddity, made in Canada and bottled by Kentucky’s Sazerac Company, certainly doesn’t have much going on in the alco-burn department. But if you’re a fan of Hot Tamales candy and over the age of 21, you’re in luck: Fireball has managed to create a dead solid rendition of that confection.

There’s just no mistaking this whisky from the get-go. The nose is full of grated cinnamon and little else. This carries over to the body: Full of spice, a nice slug of sugar, and a long, lingering, cinnamon burn. Imagine crushing up Red Hots and steeping them in lower-proof alcohol — any alcohol will do, as Fireball doesn’t have a distinct whisky taste aside from a bit of brown sugar — and drink.

And yet, surprisingly, this isn’t a half-bad spirit. It’s not much of a departure from cinnamon schnapps, but the balance is right and the tastes are authentic. Candy-coated, to be sure, but with a week to go ’til Christmas, who’s complaining?

B+ / $17 / fireballwhisky.com

fireball cinnamon whisky Review: Fireball Cinnamon Whisky

Review: Plantation Original Dark Overproof Rum

We last encountered Plantation in 2009, when its year 2000, single-island, vintage rums arrived on the scene. Now Plantation is showing off some new tricks, including this monster 73% alcohol overproof dark rum.

Most overproof rums tend to be unaged or only lightly aged, but Plantation Overproof is legitimately a “dark” rum, at least based on the color (time in barrel is not revealed). Hailing from Trinidad & Tobago, the 146-proof rum looks innocuous in the glass. Take a sip and the alcohol level quickly reveals itself. Amateurs will find themselves gasping for air, which is of course the entire point.

But beneath the burn you’ll find an awful lot of character. (Add water to bring it out a bit more clearly.) A mountain of caramel shows off classic darker rum textures,with cinnamon, cloves, raisins, and nutmeg in the finish. Lots of character, and with plenty of water it’s actually really easy to sip. In smaller quantities it’s a great choice for adding a unique spin to any number of cocktails.

A- / $30 (one liter) / plantationrum.com

plantation overproof rum Review: Plantation Original Dark Overproof Rum

Greetings from Frankfurt, Germany

I’m spending a week in southern Germany and just finished a wonderful meal with Lenz Moser of Laurenz V at the Schlosshotel in Kronberg. Check out what I encountered earlier today at Frankfurt’s mammoth Christmas fair. Anyone else ever seen this? Off to the Rheingau tomorrow!

jack daniels winter jack Greetings from Frankfurt, Germany

Review: 2009 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

This Paso Robles winemaker is a staple of wine lists and most wine markets, and Justin now commands a huge footprint, boasting sales in 23 countries. The lion’s share of its production is still this Cabernet Sauvignon, which comprises nearly half of its bottle count.

The wine itself is on the lighter side for a Cabernet, and for better or worse the flavor profile isn’t terribly complex. More berry-forward than most Cabs, it’s got an undercoating of violets and other very light floral notes, but for the most part it lets the fruit do the talking. Tannins are all but absent here. Ready to drink now, I wouldn’t cellar this wine for more than a few additional years.

The rating is in line with my pre-release barrel tasting rating.

B+ / $26 / justinwine.com

2009 JUSTIN Cabernet sauvignon Review: 2009 Justin Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles

Review: Auchentoshan Valinch 2011 and 1999 Vintage Bordeaux Matured Whiskys

Auchentoshan is in just about every way an oddity. It’s the only distillery in the city of Glasgow (making it a Lowlands whisky), and it’s the only Scotch whisky that’s distilled three times instead of the usual two (meaning it comes off the final still at an incredibly high 162 proof). The house style uses unpeated barley.

I’ve long dismissed Auchentoshan as making rather simplistic, uninteresting whiskys, but these two impressive yet affordable, limited release bottlings have me rethinking the brand and digging into my archives to re-sample its standard releases. While these two new spirits are going to be incredibly hard to find, both are more than worth your while to do so.

Auchentoshan Valinch 2011 Limited Edition – This is simply a cask strength version of Auchentoshan Classic, a $30, non-age-statement spirit. Pale in color, hugely sweet, with burnt and brown sugar character on the tip of the tongue. Tropical notes follow, pineapple and lots of banana. Quite a bit of coconut and smoke on the finish, reminding one of the simplicity of Classic, but the much higher proof actually makes for a much more fulfilling whisky by giving it more oomph, although it still manages not to come across as overly hot. 2000 bottles made, 1200 available in the U.S. 115 proof. A- / $60

Auchentoshan 1999 Bordeaux Cask Matured – This isn’t a Bordeaux finished whisky, it’s a Bordeaux matured whisky: It has spent 11 full years in a former red wine cask, rather than just a few months getting a little finish in an oddball barrel, the normal M.O. for artisanal whisky makers. Bottled at cask strength, this deep amber whisky is quite a marvel. It starts off with a traditional malty character but very quickly takes you down a rabbit hole of exotic flavors. Wood is predominant, with a big caramel punch and lots of vanilla, too. The spice kicks in in the end, gingerbread, spiked apple punch, cherries, and fruitcake. Lots going on here, and definitely worth a look if you can find it (just 300 bottles are available in the U.S.). The price is criminally low. 116 proof. A / $70

auchentoshan.com

Review: the20 Box Wines

Part of the problem with box wines isn’t the wine, it’s the box. No matter what you put inside, it’s hard to get past these ugly, sometimes garishly designed, cardboard boxes on your countertop. Frankly, they’re a bit embarrassing, and while box wines generate less waste than their glass-bottled counterparts, at the end of the cycle, all of that still goes into the trash in the end.

the20 has a different idea: First, its boxes are eye-catching, designer items — the one I checked out was a recycled, ex-ammunition case (photos below). Second, they’re reusable. You just stuff a new 3-liter bag of wine into your box and you’re ready to go again. It’s probably the greenest way to drink wine short of getting it straight from the tap.

Like any box wine, there are four bottles’ worth of wine in each box (or 20 glasses, hence the name), and the20 also is upgrading the wine that goes inside. It’s working with a dozen or so wineries that make some pretty high-end juice. The typical box wine runs you $20 or so. the20′s wines currently cost up to $79 per box (not including the case).

I checked out a rare boxed Pinot from Napa Valley’s Fagan Creek (vintage 2008) and was very pleasantly surprised at the quality. At first blush, rocky and tough. Air helps — the wine has obviously been hermetically sealed in plastic for months — and reveals this wine’s charms. Very brisk red cherry — bordering on dried cherries — is balanced with lighter fruits like strawberry. A touch of wood on the finish. This isn’t canonical Pinot, but for something served out of an ex-ammo container, it ain’t bad. The rating is for the wine. The idea itself gets an A. B / $78 for 3 liters

the20wines.com